Video

Word of caution woth this method, it is possible the allen bit (10mm) can somehow get lost inside. Whether betwwen the bearings or the shaft is hollow I don't know yet. I'm still trying to remove the cv 😮 😢

Adding here the settings for a W1713 washing machine: Water intake: Cold Max water level: No Flow meter: Yes Low water pressure: Yes Sensor rinse: Yes Allergy: No Country version: EU Auto load control: Yes Heater rating: 2100W Suds container: 6kg Imbalance charts: 6kg Max spin speed: 1300 Imbalance sensor: Tacho Time left disp: Yes Motor type: MRT 37-16 Hygiene: Off

Wow, great video cheers Graham

Good video, I haven't had great results with the CA-DAB 001, infact I've fitted two that led to a message on the radio saying antenna error. Some info I found says turn the antenna power off, which weakens the signal but makes it work but a poor signal or constant drop off. Turn the antenna power on and antenna fault message appears. I tend to use the Autoleads one from Halfords, it's got a coax and single black wire to be powered from a 12 volt source. I've had the best results with these ones. The passive or active splitter ones from China are bad, just open the black box and see what the board and solder look like. I wouldn't want that in my car. Because of how the A pillar trim goes on, don't put the black box too close to the pillar, it makes getting the trim back on difficult. Good video

Hi, for the very awkward to refit turbo inlet pipe bracket, I used a cap headed bolt possibly 45mm long with a flange nut loctited midway to clamp the dipstick bracket and inlet pipe. Much easier to refit and hold to start the thread

Just repaired mine, Thanks!! My SMD IR was just weak or dead, bought a strip of 5 pieces (Kingbright KP-2012F3C, 940 NM, 0805) for ~1.50 euro, transport cost were crazy more then 10 euro 🤣 First time SMD soldering went very well thanks to some educational vids on YT😉. (good and bad vids out there on how to do it, use your brain to filter out the good and do it nice). I needed to buy the right super small tip (XT HX) for my Weller iron, very thin tin (0.2mm)😉, I also bought a new bottle of flux (TK83 no clean). Make sure you get the old tin clean off, because you need to seat it flat on the print, can recommend looking for some no clean desoldering wire (I used Techspray no clean). Using my phone as a magnifying glass was a bit clumsy but it worked, need to fix that problem in the future or buy a new pair of eyes like in cyberpunk 2077😇. My end total cost were below 50 euro and got my Fluke 287 back + new soldering tools + new skill level unlocked😜 Thanks again! and good luck if you have the same problem! Fixing your nice battery eating fluke is worth it😛.

Very good video. I followed it and it took me 5 hours too as some else have mentioned here. I had 2post lift and i thought i will do quicker. Most difficult part was opening connections between condensder and hoses.Bolts were corroded into aluminium. And seals were stuck too.And second trouble was that condenser bracket which holds those hose connections and is fixed on coolant radiator's side. I bought cheapest condenser and that bracket was bit off from original geometry.

I’m dreading even starting on mine. 🙁

I am 70 and this was an easy fix thank you

What a shit design not being open it by emergency cable

Did this job today on my VRS. Wow, you said the condenser connections to the ac pipes at the back weren’t too difficult…..4 hours and lots of swearing later it’s all back together.

Hi Kevin, thanks for this and other videos. I’m about to do exactly as you have done as mine. At first it wouldn’t start which turned out to be an ignition switch. I also changed the Stanadynes as PedroPickle mentioned here. Have not had the benefit of seeing their full glory as now i have a bad white smoke issue from the exhaust and back of the engine. Can’t accelerate as the engine dies and engine won’t go past 1500rpm. Not diagnosed the issue yet but starting with this video. Also mine is an AJT with an ACV plastic cover as PedroPickle pointed out. Back to problem solving!

Thanks for this brilliant tutorial, it was invaluable, couldn't have done it without it. I replaced the whole regulator as I didn't fancy fitting a new cable and it wasn't too expensive for the whole new part. I found the trickiest part was removing the parts that hold the glass in place. If you're replacing the whole regulator as I did, it was very easy to run a hacksaw blade where the glass is held (flush to glass on outside) and cut off the plastic that goes through the hole. I was a bit worried I'd break the glass when pushing the clip but if you just saw through it then you can't really break the glass.

Big thank you 👏👏 excellent info helped greatly with install of new window system.

Hi Kevin. I have the exact same model and vintage. Even though ACV is printed on the cam cover, that's only because the ACV model cam cover is also fitted to this engine model - the AJT. Does the engine smoke white upon first starting after a day or two of rest? If so, the inlet air leak you refer to here is not the reason. Although a good idea to find a nice securing clip for that pipe, it is almost certainly the OE injectors of the 88bhp model - the Stanadynes - that are leaking fuel into the chamber after a rest that is causing any starting issues. I have a custom body and nozzle combination that you can get from International Diesels that are stamped "GERMANY VW Audi" - that are actually Bosch units - I can dig out for you if you reply to this comment - See Ron Rake on T4 Forum - he did mine for me but he's in Liverpool. Completely transformed the running of mine. At least 102bhp now and beautiful to drive.

Thanks alot. Mine would not crank after reaching operating temperature or after a long distamce drive. If i let the car cool down it would start up right well. But now it has refused completely to start, though it cranks. Any advice ??

Well done mate, couldn't have done it without your video.

My dpo3054 has the same problem. I decide to replace it too. Thanks for your video.

Had the same problem with my 1.9 td, just followed your instructions, it's fixed the problem, thanks for posting this video..

Excellent video! Stuck fuel filler flap seems to be pretty common. Sadly I’m getting the same on my 2014 Octavia vRS estate. I bought a new actuator, I assume the cable is easy enough to unplug and re plug the new one?

Is the video the same process for my boardman txc 650b comp

Great information thanks Kevin, seems like you need patience and know how to get what you want!, very helpful, cheers

Im now thinking that by taking the speaker cover off the door i may be able to remove the old cone and cut the insides out of the round box leaving just the terminals and fit a new aftermarket speaker without going through with removing the whole door card.. 🤔

Hello Kevin, I am having issues with volume cutting in an out and believe it is the cord that connects to the ear muff. I am going to replace the cord but want to make sure I don't break the box while im at it. How do you properly remove the cord from the headset and open up the battery box? Thanks!

Thank you very much for this video, found my fault at the same point... VW Passat B6 2.0 tdi BMP

Very similar to the Toledo,Rapid setups used a lot of your info thankyou.

I just kept opening the car while pushing the flap and it opened...

The fuel flap is a slide fit on the hinge. Once you have levered the flap out, simply pull it backwards & it comes off. you can then access end of the actuator to release the hinge assy. Check the video by Tomas Dvorak. There is no need to break anything.

Great instruction video, thank you!

Cheers mate your video helped me fix my window problem

Hello Kevin What is the diameter of the cone? thanks

Hi kevin, Franck from France, Owner of the AVCA1SE model for over nearly Two Decades now, my front panel started to turn blank intermittently. I had to give big bumps at the front top chassis to make it alive. Recently, It turned loose one more time and I do not want to "push it around" again. I do suspect a bad connection, BUT since you took a deep look into it, do you have any ideas to where this connection would be visible. I don't want to dismantle the whole pretty massive thing. PS : i Had this kind of issue you mentioned in your video a few years ago, ( flashing light and the Amp going on stand by mode) but turned it off completely, waited for a few secs, and it rumbled again with great noise. Cheers and thanks for your instructive video, you might be of good help for me sooner or later, considering this type of issue. FG

Hello, nice video ! Could you tell me what wire colors (at the input of the Bose module) correspond to what actual wire (audio L, audio R, ground, Mic+, Mic- etc.) ?

If you remove the small grab handle cover (just pops out) then you can lever out the window switches from underneath - with no fear of damaging any trim - Otherwise, great!

Thanks for that. This is one of the best How To step by step guides on CZcams. 👍

I think the problem is ,the quality that change on Miele.

Guess what I will be doing later. Thankyou.

Is it safe to unplug the connector for wire inspection without disconnecting battery? Thank you

simple stupid easy.

you are an engineer

Well done for finding that fault - it wasn’t an easy one to spot. And thanks for posting the video! I have starting issues now that the weather is getting colder that I have never had before and I am just about to start faultfinding. You’ve given one potential cause that I would possibly never have found, if that’s what’s causing my problems.

Brave speaker surgery here. Note, the cone also has to be centered like the magnet. To do this, remove the dust cover and insert 3-4 cardboard strips into the magnet gap so the cone sits snugly. Then glue down the spider (orange surround) and then the rubber surround, and the dust cover.

I know this has been up for several years but does anyone know if this applies to the AVC-A10 which mine is giving similar symptoms. TIA.

I’ve got mk3 estate and same issue. Have you replaced with the Audi part and did it fit and work?

I managed to open it.. I had to lock on and off my car.. and it does work after every 10 or 15 try with a push.. I wonder If there is some corrosion or smthing..what do you think?

I getting my octavia 2.0 tdi 2012 playing up when hot. Says crankshaft sensor but im thinkimg wiring issue. Gonna swap the crank sensor first and take it from.there.

Hi Kevin i like Your Video Can you Make a Dissasembly Video of The Bose Aviation X? Please :3

Guys, how to remove the plastic cover holder at the top over the side trim? i removed the single screw on the top but it doesn't seem to be pulling out? please help!

It worked! Thank You!

Does the front power supply heat sink of of yours get warm/hot even at idle? Is that normal for this amp, it is generating a lot of power after all...