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Thanks, excellent presentation!

Yeah, don't do that.Keep the brake pad against the caliper.And push it in it'll push it in straight.If you try to put it straight in the plunger, you can mess up the alignment.This guy's really smart.I wasted my time watching this video

Every explorer from these years has duct tape on the vac hose lmao. if it works right?

Thanks for the video was helpful

Sure, it's easy after you get the plenum off. How about without removing the plenum?

Hola cuál es el orden de encendido de ese motor?

If you remove the wheel well skirt it's a lot easier since its right there, only 5 screws holding it in and you dont have to crawl under the vehicle or use jacks at all for the passenger side. My 00 has easy access for all parts but they are in the exact same spot this is maybe a 20 minute job

This is an excellent demonstration. Thanks!!!

Can you tell me which valve you ended up using? I have the same issue and would like to do the same fix! I know you said GM, do you know the part number?

Sí fuera en español...

Thank you for this video. So much more simpler than other videos.

New racks come cemtered already😂

That ole boy got them on half way but he dont know s from shinola about being a mechanic. trying to put an eye out not having right tools

do they work on alum rims

Thank you. Big help.

I've been working on one of these for a family member and I can't express how upset the tube and cable routing on these Explorers makes me. Everything wraps around and tangles with something else. It doesn't have to be that way, there is more than enough room in these cars to do proper routing, but that would require extra inches of cable and bean counters would rather spend more money on labor than on a couple dollars of extra cable/tube length.

Reaching anything in this engine is seriously the bane of my existence. I'm currently trying to change out the pcv valve that's stuck behind the intake manifold. Was hoping that the hoses would come off easy, but we all know it never is. 😅

Apparently this doesn't work foe the 2001 v6

Perhaps filming a video without the person complaining in the background about everything that you do wrong 😑.I saw what you were doing just fine, but the video would be better without the person whining.

Is it similar to doing a 2006 Dodge Caravan AC Compressor?

Had a bad hub bearing took it off dropped it upside down on the studs the rotor popped off

You don't understand how the PCV system works. The PCV valve is only open at idle and closes once the throttle is opened. It sucks blowby gases out of the engine. It won't matter if the that plastic breather is cracked or not or is not sealed against the block, it will still suck enough to get the blowby gasses out of the engine. When the PCV valve is open it doesn't matter if it is sucking blowby gas or air as far as a 'vacuum leak'. The PCV valve when open is sucking air or blowby or some combination of the two (only at idle when the engine vacuum pressure is high) and the combination of blowby or air doesn't change the operation of the PCV valve closing once the throttle is opened and engine vacuum drops, and has no effect on any type of vacuum leak. If the PCV valve itself is not working, now you have a vacuum issue while RPM are up because it isn't closing at off-idle. Or if the lines from the PCV value to the intake manifold are leaking, then you have a vacuum leak also.

Buen trabajo jefe.

I get this an old post video ---- but this is not the same way as the guy here that has his (88) Dakota vac check valve at booster routed direct through a firewall only and other end in BOOSTER there os not another vac as you did that take that valve and its vac behind the TBI to the vacs on the passenger side so yea, this is confusing AF

Un genuine thank you to your video. It was so helpful and it got me out of trouble!

ford tech here I have a 03 ford focus wagon 2.3 dont ever use a black and orange fram oil filter they are the worst oil filters use a OEM or a wix and puralartor

if you have air blow all the dust off before you start the job and after you remove the old plug blow the well out with air

This was awesome. Finally, AJ Pierce shows me how to do this right on my old Jalopy after I heard so many scary stories of "Don't underfill it! Don't overfill it! Have it totally level! Do it only while hot and running (No Way do I advise such danger!)!" Such relief to see you do it after showing the how to's step by step. Following your video, even a caveman/garage dweller/vehicularly challenged man like me can do it... And all I wanted was to keep my dignity and a working conveyance kept properly... Respect! :)

Thank you for teaching me how to do this Mr. Pierce. Rest in Paradise, Sir.

3:15 out of 6:42 He starts putting the first one on... 4:10 (55 seconds) it's installed...

Does anyone’s truck turn off when you press on the gas pedal or while driving , can’t figure out what it can be

truck battery died, can’t find the key fob, and can’t key in my code. your video is a lifesaver!! thank you, thank you, thank youuu!! xo

Hello just a question do you know where is the ac hi pressure switch on this caravan... I cant find it ...any suggestions will be appreciated... Thanks in advance

Hey man, Thanks!

Hey Dean, I'm going to have to be doing this on my truck. I'm showing this to you because you're going to be doing it soon

I saw another video like this years ago. I have done this 2 different ways, one by method above and the other by modifying an actual radiator cap with a tire valve through it. The custom cap method found a leak on the actual radiator. The method above found a faulty radiator cap as well after my car overheated. I pumped air through the overflow hose to 15 or 16 lbs pressure. The pressure built up and the guage held for a minute then slowly decreased. The coolant hoses did fill with air. I couldnt find any leaks until I tapped on the radiator cap and it began hissing. When I swapped with a new cap and pressure tested again, the pressure did build and fill the hoses with air. I could also hear the air hitting the inside of the cap. However this time the gauge would spike at each pump, but fall back to 0 after each pump. If i pumped again, the reading would jump a bit higher, but read 0 again. I assumed the cap was not holding pressure but sure enough the hoses were full. I opened the cap and a big burst of pressure was released. I inspected both caps and the new one had a slighter larger seal underneath, not sure if it has anything to do with it. Well, I dont know the science as to why the variations during the test of each cap. But i can confirm this method works.

Did you use a CRUSH WASHER on the oil pan drain plug, prior to re-installing the drain plug back onto the oil pan? If so, what size crush washer? Thanks!

Thanks

Ok

Before you fix up the crank breather, did you had any codes for that air leak? Good stuff to know.

I'm not separating my intake on a 300k km engine, no way.. but thanks for telling me about the wiper cowl method because I was just going to sneak through everything with a pivot ratchet setup and possibly a camera, haha. Still might.. I'll give the thumbs up for the info 👍

Great work, AJ. Love the belt tensioner hack. All I need to do is replace the bearing assembly, so that comes after loosening the center screw, in my case.

Thanks my release broke on my sn95

Stupid cable. Stupid plug. haha

Your husband is still helping people to this day

Exelet video

Thank you so much! It worked.

Bad video. Too much humming in the background. Can't hear what you're saying. Something's humming real loud bad video

Where is the door code on a 2008 ford sport trac? Thank you

I got something similar. Engine run like piece of shit but if i try to rev the engine, its gonna stop. Only if I push pedal realy realy smoth, it rev up. And fuel smels aroubd the car. I'm scared, if it can be timing chain fail.