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Scrap wood from one of our many projects.

I recently heard about that too. working on some comparison videos right now and will get my hands on this new product to try out.

Really I think it boils down to using the right product for the right job. I've seen titebond hold some amazing pieces together but I have also seen it fail on certain woods that the epoxy wouldn't have.

Thanks!

Wait, there's one right there

Absolutely you are correct. I've seen a rip of wood go through a door.

Sometimes you just need to muscle through it.

The biggest. AC/DC wrote a song obout these thangs.

lmao YEAH, WAYYYYYYY different.

After a decade of doing this honestly I feel like taking multiple passes makes no difference if your blade is sharp which this one is. The issue here is that the board itself has tension and that outside rip wants to squeeze in. As it does it pinches on the riving knife. The riving knife's entire purpose is to prevent kick backs. if I take two shallow passes, the third pass clears through the board allowing that tension to then squeeze in regardless so it makes no difference, one pass or three.

I agree with that, not a declared sneak attack = cheating.

STEP 1: wood-2art.com/products/yellow-gold-mp-gd-01 STEP 2: mix in a small amount of black spray paint STEP 3: ??? STEP 4: PROFIT!

@@Wood2Art how did you get it that green color though that link you sent was a gold yellow color with black spray paint how does that go green?

@@Whiskeywoodworks I promise this is gold and not green. unless your comment is on the wrong video

He has one inside, he just chose to go outside as to not fill the shop up with dust and chose to use a sawhorse instead. But your right, nothing worse than being hunched over for a few hours sanding!

@@Wood2Art =)

This was End Grain Ambrosia Maple

Pretty sure it was eye candy color shift mica powder

I'm sorry what? 🤣

Idk what even happened but this comment was for a different reel I saw yesterday 😂😂 it was asking what breed of dog you would never own

Chihuahua....

Personally, I am a fan of the 3045 but if yours set on using their wax line I would use the 1101 as it is thinner and can penetrate the wood fibers/ pore fill better.

Good Question! With Deep Pour and Mica Powder as the pigment, on projects with respectable size it will naturally heat up casing this "plumming" effect. when it cures and hardens it freezes the image. After sanding off an 1/8'' it reveals this look which is super cool and very predictable.

Good luck!

Exactly. We have not managed to roll it on and leave it to dry and it not be a sticky mess a week later. This is just a hybrid version of Odies oil and Rubio Directions that we have good luck with. I wouldn't say your wasting 90 percent of the product. If you keep wet buffing the initial pour out I would say most of it absorbs into the wood and gets buffed in. Dry buffing should only be picking up the excess oil not most of it.

Might sound weird but we prefer terry cloth rags. yes they leave some lint behind but its big lint and you can see it. take your blow torch and sweep it.. no more lint Lol Other rags leave smaller lint that sometimes you don't see right away. Micro fibers tend to get overloaded too quickly when dry buffing.

Thanks for the info@@Wood2Art

Thanks, will do!

Thank you! 😊

This isn't a finish sander, It is meant for just roughing and grinding. You are correct though when using a normal sander for finish sanding that is absolutely the correct method.

@@Wood2Art thank you for reply. I never saw sander like this before. More like a nematic auto sander for body work with pistol grip. I’m guessing your running a minimum of 50 grit or less to clear epoxy

Not sure what the technical name is but we just call it a rotary sander. No orbits, just spins fast as hell and rips through anything. Uses same 5 in disks as the orbitals so less investment on components. Your absolutely right though. Low grits and keep it moving. This thing rips through anything and with skill, can rapidly level a surface by hand. Always wanted to try the pneumatic sanders but just haven't gotten around to it.

@@Wood2Art thank you for that info. I’m a home wood worker. My job before retiring was industrial sheet metal. Many of the same skills apply to wood. I love equipment and tools so always pay attention to that and the skills of others. I’m retired but I never stop or pass an opportunity to learn. If you don’t mind spending the the time answering where did you get the sander and what is the name so I can reference it. I’m apt to build a chair to making a table out of a rough cut tree lol. I seem to jump on what ever is requested or needed no matter if I’ve done it before or not. It’s all an adventure that’s quite satisfying.

Sorry for late response. been crazy busy around the shop. Check out the link. www.lowes.com/pd/DEWALT-120-Volt-6-Amps-Disc-Sander/3651298?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-tol-_-ggl-_-PMAX_TOL_000_Priority_Items-_-3651298-_-local-_-0-_-0&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA-vOsBhAAEiwAIWR0TY11mSH5r23OXWj0b7hlyJkrOmf5uvUiNlyZDXkpM3kq4u1F0KziRBoCb0EQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

just showing our method. Care to elaborate? always down to learn new methods

Thanks! I'm super happy with how it turned out.

We like to include a small info card about proper care. To be honest I can say about 80 percent of the people I know that buy nice cutting boards don't do the maintenance regardless. Carnauba and beeswax is a great long lasting combo. Our biggest reason for using the Osmo is when compared to plain mineral oil a lot of guys use. even if the board is never used (which a lot of people I have seen buy only do so for display purposes) it looks dried out and dull within a month or two. I have boards in our showroom that look the same as day 1 - 2 years later that were coated with the Osmo. If I was to suggest a method that doesn't change your current style too much is to do your initial applications with Osmo oil and IF the person actually wants to use AND maintain the board then continue to supply the small can of Beeswax/Carnuba for continued maintenance.

Woodmaster was kind enough to warranty the belt for us, we just had to pay to overnight it as we cant afford to wait. Short answer I have no idea but if you call into Woodmaster they can walk you through almost any problem you might have.

How can I get this kind of open conveyor belt so I can fit it on my machine? (Not a Woodmaster) I tried their website, but no results

I would try calling them. It is specific width and diameter, so it may or may not work in your application.

It is literally on the can food safe and rated for children's toys per EU standards.

I Honestly believe it is just the way people have always done it and their hesitant to change. " If it aint broke don't fix it" The biggest thing for me is a lot of boards turn into decorations that are never used. When it has a mineral oil finish it just looks terrible after a few month even without use. Osmo being food safe to the point of being rated for children's toys as well as indefinitely looking good when used as decoration or minimal upkeep as compared to a mineral oil finish when used as an active cutting board makes it a no brainer. It is just plain superior. I'll gladly pay more for a product that requires less upkeep while getting a similar or better result. We are currently working on a longer video comparing Osmo to Rubio and Odies while torture testing them to see which holds up best. (Honestly I'm thinking Rubio but we will see.)

I trust Europe standards over American ones. I look forward to using this

It goes a long way. I was hesitant as well. Bought a wee can for 27 cad. I covered about 20 sq foot tops and around 13 axe handles. Well worth the coin for this product.

It goes a long way, I bought the 750ml can and it is much more than I will ever use. An amazing product and safe as are most finishes as the volatiles evaporate leaving only wax.

euro-norm 1186 part 5/14

Thanks

@@Wood2Art are you open to collaboration?

Appreciate the offer but looks like your pushing your own brand while we have one ourselves. Would be a conflict of interest. Best of luck to you!

😂😂😂

Cheaper than Tyvek brand lmao. Lately we have been using packing tape with success as long as its the thicker mil stuff.

Hi!!!

We filled in everything with this same Epoxy 🙂

Bet

Lot of variables here and hard to say without seeing how you applied.. I've got a board with light use over the last 6 months I'm getting ready to refresh with a new layer as it's started accumulating some marks. Still lasts longer looking good than regular mineral oil 😁

We added Caulk to keep the epoxy from spilling out of the creases of the wood.

Oh Damn that’s satisfying

Straight from the border in a grey gmc

The mother of pearl gets checked every time 🤣