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The reason you don't see improvement with outer wall first and precise wall is because precise wall does nothing when you print outer walls first. I keep seeing/hearing this. Read the docs.

CR M4, sonic pad and pad7 keeps losing connection to mcu. Any ideas?

fabreeko and west3d are what I'm stick with from now on. Both are incredibly good quality and price to performance is great compared to delta.

The best review video I have seen, congratulations and thank you.

Proud of e3d innovating in the face of bambulab and sanjay’s absence.

Can you maybe share a link to the thermal grease(?) which you used for the thermistors? Is it sticky and keeps the thermistors in place (like a glue?) - because I always have issues with the thermistors popping out of the tiny holes again :(

Why not compare Bambu with Voron Trident ?Hopefully there will be videos in the future

I picked up the ObXidian nozzle for my P1S and began testing last night.. I normally print Bambu PLA basic at 18 mm3/s. With the ObXidian nozzle the max flow rate test hit 40 mm3/s before showing *any* signs of issues! I ran the test at 210c, 220c, and 230c nozzle temps, 210c looked the best out of the 3 to me. How hot is TOO hot for this combo though? Is 240c a reasonable temperature? I normally print at 220 and have not gone over 230. Your chart at 7:24 shows 230c to have the highest tensile strength.

Come on. Welcome to 2024. These feature was earlier than orca first release.

I have to say, the Creality K1 Max isnt in any way perfect, but i bought it for 700 bucks and in comparison the X1C costs about double that. I had them both to see whith wich one i go. The X1C is a great printer, but its in no way, shape or form better then the K1 Max, im sorry if i upset anyone but if you get problems like the ones shown in the Video with the K1 Max its obviously the fault of the one using the printer not the printer itself. I get perfect Prints from the K1 Max. I admit, i only got these AFTER rooting, installing fluidd, and so on. But who buys a 3D printer and thinks thats it? The X1C is really good but not 1400 bucks good. If they were priced the same the X1C would be my first choice but as it is the K1 Max is a way better choice.

Put the extrusions in a T orientation for even more stiffness really like the way to test stuff, could you do add a test of the panda revo hotend. i know its pricy :/

very good video thank you so much! Can you do the same with PETG? Maybe you can even include a shininess to adhesion graph.

Can you test the BIQU Panda Revo Hotend?

Thank you.....I was just about to go for the K1 Max as a more economical to buy alternative to the X1C.

I was about to buy a 0.6mm nozzle from bambu in order to speed up big prints, however harsh reality kicked in as even the 0.4mm nozzle, at 0.28mm layer heights for draft prints, already maxes out my flow rate. So 0.6mm wouldn't save that much time if any (some time I guess could be expected by less movements) - checked this video out, and now the 0.6mm e3d is on it's way.

Hi, I tried Inner/Outer = IW first and then Outer/Inner = OW first, the Inner/Outer was better... how's that possible ? was it the third option ?

I've known about this for a few years. Its main downsides are long travel moves will leave a gap due to nozzle pressure and it's impossible to print ID threads with OW first. Also ironing can also cause a gap due to low nozzle pressure.

OUTSIDE before inside also stops infill from showing.

Where is that setting in Prusa slicer 🤔

Great video thanks for the advice!

A major point is you could add multi colour capability to the Bambu - you cannot with the other 2

Word of note: i tried a Sunon MagLev fan, and it was a catastrophe, the magnetic bearing just cannot deal with high vibration environments. It made horrible noises. I'm still using it but i filled it with so much grease that it's mostly a sleeve bearing fan now :D My previous sleeve bearing fan died quickly, but the converted Sunon seems to be holding on. I think double ball bearing fans are the only fans suitable for a high vibration use. So next a Delta fan i suppose :D Sunon also has another problem, Autorestart feature. It does not play well with PWM, the fan goes crazy. You can either up the PWM frequency, that sort of works but lead to weird noises. I ended up building a Pi filter, but i sort of went a little wild on capacitance, the control delay is hilarious but it works i guess.

If you want speed but a VZBot kit. Core XYZ Voron like machine on steroids Completely open source, all linear rails, water cooled motor and top of the hotend. Saw one on here so 2000mm/a at 75mm/s volumetric flow rate. Also did 200000mm/a travel from corner to corner If you print at its top speeds. The stepper motors get to above 80V. It's the only printer on hear were the camera really can't catch how fast it's moving. Tay and the Goliath hot end is Same insane. Same price as an X1 minus the 40 hour plus assembly and parts you have to print yourself.

Can you experiment with simplify 3d for the bambu labs printers?

I'm truly impressed by the depth and know-how with which you made this review. As far as I'm concerned, your channel is now the golden standard for what 3d printer reviews can be. Thank you very much for your hard work and all the insights that you share.

Every bloody CZcamsr is now sponsored by pcbway. I’m sick of the sound of them. Over-exposure.

That sure was different. Kind of raising all sorts of questions about stock print quality, which we hardly ever hear about. Thanks.

This small change gave me the biggest improvement of quality from all the changes. Including extruder/hotend/rails/kinetic bed. I don't need to upgrade anything anymore, and prints are superb, even under strong top-down lightning

Woaaah, so nice. Well BBL machines has so much into them that nobody talks about. The devil is in the details as they say. Wonder how would X1C go against those as it is quite better than P1 series imo

Very cool. I always knew that feed rate and temperature depends on color but man... That greeeeen :D

Wow, nice one :) Thanks for making it

For tight tolerance or for quality surface I always use outer wall first but depending on the finish I need 0.4mm outer wall with 0.07 layer height and 0.7mm infill with 0.2mm layer height to make up for slower perimeter speed. This works great for overhangs and surface finish as it prints 3 layers of outer wall before 1 pass of the infill. This is done with a 0.6mm nozzle.

Infill before walls or after?

i can see the differences in your examples. They all look the same to me

if i ever get metal parts for a voron its gonna be from pcbways metal 3d printing service cuz it has to be 3d printed

Do you ever used a Creality K1C? Could you compare Qidi Q1 Pro to K1C? I'm a total beginners and I'm confused about selection of my first 3d printer. Thank you

I'll try that. In Cura it's called "Wall Ordering". Also, if you find a solution for those Bulged lines which some people refer to as "Benchy hull line" we'd all be grateful, since not even Prusa found a solution in their article about it.

Thank you for your work. For me Inner outer inner walls is slightly better but the seams are less beautiful. Have you changed the seam settings?

jUST RECENTLY GOT INTO 3D PRINTING, and just this vid well worth a like and sub.. Can't wait to see your other vids..

I am sorry, I couldn't understand what the final decision was. Can someone explain?

you need test tz3 with CHT brass nozzle(i got 40mm3 flow test generic PLA but with hardened just 18mm3)

Unbelievable! I get damn near perfect prints now. All that time I spent sanding, spot filler, filler primer, sanding, more sanding...Unbelievable.

does this play well with scarf seams?

I just recently got into 3D printing and switched to this method after watching your video. Made all the difference in the world. My prints look so much better. Thanks!!!

3:33 look at this atrocious graph and how it was reduced … by 2 orders of magnitude … up

I was thinking back to this video... QIDI has copper plated with HS tip only. If you recover two clone CHT inserts and you enlarge the hole of the genuine QIDI to slide them in, what would be the result? 1) good outer material conductivity 2) good inner insert conductivity 3) HS tip which is the part under abrasive stress, so no big reduction in useful life.

I admire your amazing ability to come to completely opposite conclusions here and in your other video on "3D Printer’s BELTED Z-AXIS".

I'm testing this now and hoping for great improvements to dimensional accuracy for my Clickfinity Refined plates. One note: the description of the travel distance threshold is not clear at all, and since it's the most replayed part of the video I'm not the only one. I read around and from what I can tell from your video is that you have a travel distance threshold of 1mm and a Z hop type of Spiral. This causes Z-height movements when moving to another wall > 1mm away, slowing your print times (and probably heating up the filament more during that S hop time, causing dimensional issues). You recommend increasing the default to something like 2mm which reduced your print times. But this is only true because you have a Spiral Z hop type vs Slope, which combines Z movements with XY movements to reduce stringing. For me-Bambu Labs P1S w/0.6mm E3D ObXidian nozzle-the default value (under Printer Settings » Extruder » Retraction » Travel distance threshold) was 3mm with a Z Hop Type of Auto (aka Slope), so this is not applicable to me. Z Hop defines how the print head combines Z movements alongside XY movements. Keep in mind that some users are seeing scraping when the travel distance threshold is > 0mm. If this is the case then Z Hop Type to Normal might help at the cost of longer print times. The bottom of this Github issue is a great read for folks who want to learn the pros and cons of these settings: github.com/bambulab/BambuStudio/issues/3423

would love to see follow up video with two additional things; 1) add increasing layer pauses to test your theory of the previous layer being hotter because of faster flow / printing contributing to better adhesion 2) test 0.6 nozzle, and another filament such as PETG, PETG-CF and ASA :)