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RaceFace Chester Stem, 8-Degree x 50-mm, Black RaceFace Chester Handle Bar. Both of these are on Amazon. The fork works fine lower the PSI to 60 -70 makes it softer.

Lmk how it goes. I’m wanting to paint my cartels as well

@@ethansurdock7119 oh man may try a test spot on the old mean greens.

First take the entire binding apart. Then use isopropyl alcohol and cotton balls to clean the plastic areas of the base and the high backs. Use a quality spray paint and layer coats in light applications, several of them. Let coats dry 5 to 10 minutes between coats. Let dry 24 hours before reassembly, this should work to entirely change the color of any Burton binding.

@@devkhavi 👍 Thanks.

Wipe down with rubbing alcohol and cotton balls.

​@@devkhavi what type of spray paint did you use?

@@judegraf327 Ace Hardware brown primer.

I was wrong I used, Ace Rust Stop Satin Leather Brown Spray Paint 15 oz. Ace Hardware brown, inexpensive, no primer used.

@@devkhavi did it chip off after use?

Nope, the buckles are fine.

@@devkhavi what about the foam on the inside of the high back?

@@lucas12759 I did not get paint on most of the foam, the base of the heal a bit. It did not melt the foam. I did end up painting the entire highback black. The foam does not need paint.

I have not used them since I painted them, I got new Now X Yes bindings. Yes, more than likely the paint will wear off with use. I also painted the high backs black which makes them look better. With Covid my ski shuttle service got canceled so I am not riding this year.

@@devkhavi thanks for the response👍. But dang I’m sorry you can’t ride this year that sucks

@@jic5086 Well A-basin let me transfer my season pass to next year, very happy about that. I may do a few daily trips to Monarch and hike Mirkwood Basin, the snow is great late season. I will stay overnight in Salida with my wife, get the Wyndham hotel with the pool and what not.

:)

Actually I had to get a new radiator, it began to develop more "pinhole leaks". My front 360 rad had leaks also at the solder joints at the bottom. I completely fixed the 360 rad sealed with a good bead of Locktite 5 min epoxy and hit the "fillet" with flat black. If leaks do develop in the middle of any radiator, I would say it is not salvageable, it has generated "internal" corrosion that cannot be fixed.

These radiators actually cool very well. They are 32 FPI rads, meaning they have 32 fins per inch. I have used Gentle Typhoons with good results cooling (2) 580's and a 2600K. Use a good static pressure type 120mm fan with at least 1800 RPM. I am currently using 7 FPI rads in my build now, they can use lower RPM fans. Try Gentle Typhons for your current rad ot Nexus Real Silent D12SL-12, if you can find them. I am currently using Xigmatek XAF 120 mm they have massive airflow.

Dev Kha thanks for your answer, one more question a sp120 performance edition should work well?

It should, but your cooling issue may be your pump the best pump to use is the Swiftech MCP655, these are great the only pump that I use.

Dev Kha ok, i have a mcp35x pump, is good enogh?

ramonrir My friend used a lesser pump by XSPC and it did not cool well with the 32 FPI rad that you and I have. He switched to the MCP655 and it worked well. The problem with the rad is that is cools too well, meaning the 32 FPI is very tight and requires a good static preassure to get through all the fins effectively. This is part of the reason why I have switched to low FPI rads.