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most canon L lenese are parfocal

you're a gifted teacher edmund, thanks for sharing!

Can't hear you talk with the music

This was extremely well filmed and produced.

Thanks man, i'm gonna buy the viltrox speed booster for my xt30. Your view are so good with great ifomation and detailed. Have a nice day man <3

clever aesthetic. props to you

Thank you so much for this video! Awesome job.

It took me a little under a year to figure out how to take advantage of crop mood. I was always confused about why I couldn't get anything to work and I found out that it wasn't my cards. It was the camera itself. It's data rate can't go over 87MB/s without becoming unstable. The one thing that also annoys me (but this is the cost of using an eos-m) is that I have to shoot 1-2 dud video clips that can't be used, but all other clips after that are stable and can be used for recording. So keep that in mind of you use this for shooting stuff. Once you turn the camera on, (I also recommend using the card warm up feature), you should just aim at the ground or something and just record until it stops. (should be about 2 seconds or so) Do it again, after doing two clips like this, all other records will be stable. At least, that's with my eos-m. I'm sure it might vary depending on other cameras.

Epic video, Would have enjoyed it even if I didn't have any interest in cameras or understand English haha

Bought 105mm F2.5 around 10 months ago, it sits glued on my Z5. Spectacular characteristics in such well built lens. Must own!

I tried a Canon EF 24-70/2.8L today on this speedbooster, and I had the same issue with the screen freaking out, and not being able to shoot. It was glitching like crazy, but ONLY after I took one shot, and reviewed the image. If I took the lens and adapter off, and separated them, and put it back on, it would work. Did you ever figure out what the issue is? I am using the same adapter with a Nikkor 50/1.4 Ai-S lens with no issues.

So you're saying, even though this is not what I'm trying to do, that if a young filmmaker wants to emulate the look of what she sees in Netflix series and Amazon Prime series she should use Nikkor AI-S? I fully disagree. These lenses will make her piece look like Harold and Maud, which is fine if her story is set in the 70s. But is she's trying to tell a contemporary story happy in 2024, she should use lenses to which the audience is used to see those stories being filmed with. Why would you use 50 year old lenses to film a sci-fi piece happening in the future, or a crime story happening today? Now if somebody is going to produce a Western, a Buck and Swash movie , why not!

Hi Edmund, interesting comments. Just a correction or precision to something that you mentioned in 4:27: "A focal reducer also increases the effective aperture of the lens, making it faster." It turns out that a focal reducer doesn't increase the effective aperture of the lens. If you put a 50 mm FF lens at f/2.8 on a APS-c sensor and use a focal reducer, you will get a 50mm FF equivalent field of view on the crop sensor. But, the depth of field of the optical scene will still be f/2.8 FF equivalent, you are not changing the optical image characteristics (depth of field). What you are doing tough is concentrating more light on the sensor than if you don't use the speed-booster, this because the focal reducer is concentrating the light that comes from the FF lens into a smaller APS-C area (like with a magnifying glass that concentrates the light that comes from the sun into a small area). So, yes, you are augmenting the amount of light reaching the sensor compared to not using the speed-booster, but you are not increasing the aperture of the lens which is optically still f/2.8 in FF terms. It is not that your lens is now an f/2 equivalent.

Hey man! Lovely video! I always wanted to know but to this day I still cannot find and answer to this. Which color space does Phantom Luts require? I would assume that since you are buying specific luts for specific cameras, they require their color space, for sony thus slog3/cine. Is there still a posibility to use Phantom luts even when using CSTs to work in Davinci wide gamut? Thanks in advance and have a great day! Hope it makes sense hahah.

I'm curious what your thought process was for choosing Nikkor AI-S lenses when there are a lot of other options (Canon FD, Contax Zeiss, Leica R). I'm on the fence with Nikkor and Contax Zeiss.

The old Nikkors are the original Art lenses... and still are.

I forgot I was supposed to buy a camera and just started watching Stranger Things instead

Cool video!! Likes the no music and no gimmicks! Very kosher/halal

To save lots of money buy the Minolta rokkor 35-70mm f3.5 which is the same lens. Leica snobs battle to suggest differences but there aren't any. If the name leica is as important to you as image quality a lens produces then you will need to spend the cash and buy the leica version.

I bought my EOS M in 2012/13. I paid $600.00 for two batteries, a charger, the EOS body, the 22MM f/2 prime pancake lens, and the 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS STM zoom. This is my go to camera, and I have not experienced any buyer's remorse. I use it almost every day, and have incorporated Magic Lantern into the software side. My old Canon AE1 FD lenses are being used because of all the adapters that are available. I also have old zeiss 3 element 135mm projector lenses from the 1920s on the M, and I have even adapted a Medium format Hasselblad 80mm Planar lens that turns the M into a literal "Hand Cannon!" This is the best camera I have ever had, and if I wanted to step up, I'd have to get Leica.

It's about time I run into a video where someone is like "... stop burning a hole yanking luts and learn how to do it yourself because it's the only way to become great at it". THANK YOU. What's up man, DFW here.

Love it!

When using Phantom LUTS, I have a Sony a6700. I have heard conflicting suggestions on which EV value to use, everything from -0.7 to +2.0. Do you have a suggestion here for best SLOG3 to REC709 transformation?

Great review and breakdown!

Thanks for video! What camera do you use right now?

Your voice is making me want to fall asleep.

show us your process. would be cool to check out.

Such a dramatic way of talking about LUTs ahahah, although I absolutely agree! I was seeing a lot of videos talking about LUTs, but I never understood why people would buy them when they can just color grade their own footage themselves and get better results, I feel like it’s more a tool to get a quick look ahead at how it’ll look later on

thank you sir

👏👏👏👏

Almost guaranteed I am. So glad you posted this video!

Very informative. Thank you. Youre from tulsa? Tell the von lankens hello from texas!

Excellenmt audio. How did you do it_?

this vid could use a speed booster :) still great info, thanks

It was great to meet you at Goodwill. It’s also interesting that I am seeing this after buying a full set of the Sony GM primes. I did vintage lenses for years and kind of made a full circle back around to the cleanest and purest glass.

why you voice sound like you horny ??

Your voice is irritating. Speak tf up

its so mobile portable and light. im sure you can figure out where else you would like to have a crash cam. SUPER glad to hear that the reliability of ML open source software is getting more and more reliable as the engineers tweak...its nice to have an options of tools...

Gxace multiplying? 😂

Bro just did the 90s commercial))

I'll never get rid of my 35-70 and my 50 mm summicron.

Thank you for this

where did you get the lens hood for the 28mm? Thanks in advance

Please, keeping doing this! Amazing way to do videos bro! Cheers from Brazil 🇧🇷

I love the design and the OG metal body. You can get great pictures from ist. But it is clunky and slow.

what's the song that you used in the photo montage?

this kids got a cool dad

I am using the 70-200mm F2.8 DG OS HSM with the Viltrox speedbooster on my X-H2s and as well experienced those blackouts/"short reboots" as it feels on that system. For photography it doesnt bother me, but when filming it stops the recording and recently on a live shoot where the cam was just turned on, providing the picture by HDMI, even in a rig that made movement between lens and camera impossible, over those 90 minutes it hat a black screen about 20-30 times. And this is a very well engineedred lens on a very well engineered camera... also in terms of autofocus, which normally is one of the best with that sigma lens, doesnt work fine here. Forget about spotting birds or something... I though myself learned over about 15000 pictures to focus manually which is quite a nice learning experience. And - in terms of image quality - besides a little vignetting - the images are absolutely stunning! Like, you wont have a 70-200mm lens with a 2.0 aputure, the bokeh is just epic. So - in the end, I dont know what to say. Due to the autofocus I probably will sell the viltrox and sigma 70-200 and buy the 50-140 from fuji, although that image is a little less epic for me... its a compromise^^ (and the 50-140 is still extremely good..!)