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My estimate is that it's at least 3500 lbs . Be careful how you rig it to pick it up - it's usually top heavy. And it yours has a gap - you might break it in half if you don't rig it correctly. You might also ask at the Old Woodworking Machine . org web site. They're pretty goof at supporting old USA made machines.

Well, first, you KNOW the voltage for each of the wires - the internal circuits are quite precise for that, so no need to measure them. As for measuring the current (amps) you'll have to have an ammeter for each of the outputs - here I assume that you are feeding power from more than one of the outputs. However, if you only use one of the outputs at a time, then, simply connect the ammeter in series with the output you are using. You can see in the video, that I have a number of binding posts and I have labelled them so I know what voltage I am using. The wires I connect then go to the ammeter on the front panel. But I only use one voltage at a time.

Yes, the yellow is plus 12V and the black is Ground ( or 0 V).

@@disproman okay but do i use one in the wires instead of using all bc i believe it will exceed the amps of the radio

The radio when it is playing an FM station draws milliamps. But when you are playing a CD at full blast you'll be drawing Amps. So, it depends how you are planing to use the car radio. In any case, I usually connect ALL the yellow wires and ALL the black wires so that way I can use the ATX power supply for anything.

@@disproman are you sure its safe to connect all the wires? Like it wont blow the radio?

NOPE - it supplies 12 V regardless of how many of the yellow wires are joined together. With more wires the 12V part of the power supply can provide more current ( Amps). The radio will blow up if you connect it to a higher voltage . With a 12 V connection to the radio the current will vary from milliAmps ( when it's turned on but not playing anything) to many Amps when you play the radio full blast with lots of base notes (boom boom boom) . If you overload the power supply it simply stops working - it doesn't "blow". You simply un plug the connection to the radio, unplug the 110V wall plug - wait 10 seconds then plus the 110V in again and you're OK to go to connect the radio

I think you mis-understand how this power supply works. The higher voltages eg 23 V and 15V are limited by the -12V (blue) wire. When the power supply is providing the 500mA, then it is NOT consuming 150W. At worst it consumes about 15W. It is very efficient. There are plenty of uses for the 23V and 15V supplies - eg charging Lithium battery packs.

@@disproman Well with that kind of amperage I would have no trouble charging a car battery or even using it to crank it over then! Is that correct?

To crank a car engine, your starter will draw a peak current of over 100 Amps or about 1.200 Watts. That's way more than the ATX power supply can provide, so, NO, you cannot crank a car engine with an ATX power supply

The boat is still in Louisiana. The guy that built the boat died some years ago, but the boat is now in the hands of one of his sons. in the area of New Iberia - not exactly sure of that , though

Yes, you can certainly use only one black wire, but significantly reduces te amount of power that will be able to draw from the power supply. Most supplies can make 250 to 400 watts, but with only one black wire, that will be limited to 20 - 25 watts. More black wires = more power available

@@disproman oh, well thanks for the reply. I just felt that putting multiple wires together just because they share the same color was a little ridiculous and could be dangerous.

Most ATX power supplies are designed to work on either 110 V or 220V. The is a small red switch on the back of the power supply. BUT . . . do NOT try to operate a 110V setting of the switch with 220V - it will destroy the power supply. If you need higher voltages, there are boost circuit packages that will let you get higher voltages Here is an example www.creatroninc.com/product/4-35v-3a-adjustable-step-up-regulator/

Assuming that your power supply is not "dead on arrival", about the only reason that I can think of, at the moment, is that somewhere, there is an overload ( not a short circuit) on the power supply. An overload usually makes the power supply "go to sleep". The remedy is to clear the over load, unplug the power supply from 110V power, wait several minutes, then plug in again. The power supply will not be "on" yet. You then should be able to get the power supply to start up, by connecting green to black. A short circuit will cause the internal fuse to blow. To replace the fuse, you'll need to remove the power supply from its case.

My video camera has now become obsolete and I can no longer create videos. Perhaps one day when I get rich enough, I'll be able to afford to buy a new camera. In any case, the configuration that you need depends very much on the specific type and model of equipment that you have. I recommend that you find a local electrical technician who should be able to assist you.

@@disproman Sir, thank you for your reply. I had already thought about your suggestion. But, unfortunately, not know any local electrician who would agree to assist me with just advice. Like videos on CZcams, who video builders just create the videos from big love on IT technologies. Hope one day I find some electrician who will assist me. Thank you.

Are you measuring the voltage between the yellow wire and the black wire? That is the 12 V connection. Check that first, before doing anything more.

@@disproman yes, sir. yellow and black wires. ok. I used two different multi tester. one is reading 14 volts the other is 13.12 volts

@@apollomorelos727 I have admit, I have never seen this on any power supply that I have made. I have made at least 35 or 40 power supplies. So, what to check next? Since you have quite a big difference between the 2 volt meters ( more than 5%) , it tells me that maybe the problem is with the meters. Usually the accuracy on an ordinary digital voltmeter is better than 1% error. The error on analog meters is much worse. I still use analog meters, but not when I need accurate readings. You'll have to check the accuracy of your meters. What are the voltage readings on the other wires? eg red / black , and orange /black

@@disproman I was looking around the internet and I found this guy in a forum asking the same question why his computer power supply is putting out 14.6 volts instead of 12v

@@apollomorelos727 OK , so you watched some You Tube stuff, but did you measure the other two voltages and what were the results ? ? It could be that your power supply does not comply with the ATX specification. In any event, does your application care about having precisely 12V ? Or can it tolerate over or under voltage? There is nothing sacred about 12V except that you need to have it for a computer to work properly.Other applications are not nearly as sensitive.

Thanks for the support. I'm still active but have fallen behind the current video technology

​@@disproman Can I ask you, what are the grey and purple for?

@@MrZeriouhradi I think they are used for internal monnitoring, but I don't know for sure. In any case they are not useful for the power supply . I've never used the,m.

@@disproman thank you

That's good news - not many of these lathes have survived as long. Who knows, perhaps the maker space world will be a 'savior' for these machines, and the know-how that goes with them.

No, there is no further information on that small mill. My pal is getting on in years and has become "distant" - a sad reality.

This visit was in March - I suspect that the mosquitos have yet to multiply in huge numbers. It is were in May or June, I think the bugs might have lifted the boat out of the water. The big thing though, is the G!D! Asian carp - big fish and they'll jump into the boat and flop around - makes a bloody mess.

I prefer the one with a wooden piston and a few screws. The crushing action between the wall of the tube wall and the piston works effectively to really crush the egg shells. That's where most of the action happens after the fist pass. I usually give it 3 or 4 passes and get really finely crushed shells.

The machine probably weighs in excess of 30-40 tonnes.

@@disproman thank you

Your power supply will be working close to its limit. The in-rush starting current might over load the ATX. It depends on your particular unit. If it does over load try the 5.5 V output The over load does not damage the ATX - it simply goes to sleep.

Yes, you should be able to get that voltage from the power supply. But I don't know how much current you'll be able to draw . My guess it would be at least 5 Amps for most power supplies. In any event, if you overload that voltage combination the power supply will simply turn itself off . The to restart it , remove the load, and unplug the power supply for 15-20 seconds and plug it back in, and it will start up .

The Linn is about 1928 and the video was made in 2013

Bad news - I think you have zapped the power supply - remember that the yellow wire is 12V and the green wire is a signal logic wire that operates at much lower voltage. To repair the power supply you'd likely have to replace one of the integrated circuits. You should be more careful in future.

@@disproman thanks

If you look at some of the other comments posted you will get the reply to your question and a link to additional information

@@disproman no, everyone assumes it is a 905 but nobody seems to know about the 901 and that includes everyone on the belsaw pages and belsaw website and everywhere else. I know mine is a 901 because of the tag, the only thing I can find about the 901 is one other person asking about the 901 and not getting a reply. It looks very similar to the 905 from what I have been able to find but I have yet to find a good description of the 901 and how it is different from a 905 and a 910 so as of right now, without a tag and serial number, we only know that the planer in the video is a 901 or a 905 but not which one specifically.

Can you tell me the colour of the wire

I do not understand the question. The black wires are 0V , the yellow wires are plus 12V, the red wires at plus 5V and the orange wires are plus 3.3V . Is your question about another kind of power supply, that is not an ATX type power supply?

@@disproman dear want on the power supply.how i can on this supply supply model is PDP117P compaq

@@fkbaloch7418 I think I understand your question.. But unfortunately, I am not familiar with the power supply for the PDP 117P computer. I do not think that it is a standard configuration and that it is proprietary to Comaq. However, you can explore the DC outputs of the power supply if you have a voltmeter and are careful to make measurements safely. It probably has output voltages in the range of 12- 24 VDC.

Dave has retired and is having some issues that prevent him from replying. But I suggest that you might find the answer if you post your question on a Kubota Forums. e.g. www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/ It's a Kubota Tractor forum, but I'm almost certain that there are folks who probably can help you since the hydraulics on ATVs and tractors are about the same.

@@disproman Thanks so much for replying, I'll try that and I wish Dave all the best, hope he feels better. Thank you sir.

The tractor is owned by the club , not privately. And as I indicated most of the restoration work was done by Arnold S. Given the nature of the Internet ( scams etc) , is there some way that you can indicate how I can contact you privately, so that I can give you Arnold's contact info Arnold is not computer connected in any event so you'll be using landline telephone

If you look on the nameplate of your power suppy, there is a rating for the minus 12 V supply. Typically it is between 0.4 to 0.6 Amps. That's the limitation even though the plus 12V can supply much more than that. However, I still use the -12 and +12 combination to charge batteries that need more than 12V e.g. a string of four lithium batteries in series needs about 18 to 20 V to charge. It just takes a bit longer to get the batteries charged up.

I have installed the engine in the fantail launch and hae had it in the water and running for the past 3 years. Here are some pictures . If you look carefully the engine is just barely visible under the cross strip in the fist picture www.oldmarineengine.com/discus/messages/4/278710.html And here are some better pictures of the launch while it was in the shop before all the cosmetics were finished. www.oldmarineengine.com/discus/messages/4/278316.html For some reason that is unknown, the St Lawrence marine engines are popular with the Cajun folks in Lousiana. I'm glad that you stumbled on the video - were you there when the place was shut down?

Barry Wilson I believe that the NCK stands for Newton Chambers, a Sheffield ( UK ) based engineering company, which built American Koehring ( the ‘K’ ) excavators under license. There are two NCK 304s at Threlkeld Mining Museum in Cumbria, and others restored in Holland, films of which may be found on CZcams. To my knowledge, North West Engineering was not associated with either company, at that time. Kind regards, Steve A.

@@steveallarton98 I used to work for Newton Chambers and was an apprentice at the NCK service department based at Birdwell near Barnsley and also worked on the assembly line at the Warren Lane factory in the 60,so I didn't know about the museum at Threlkeld and must make a visit this year. Cheers 👍👍👍👍

@@GrandadBaz Wow ! That’s brilliant ! Threlkeld also has what is believed to be the last 605-2B shovel that NCK built. I’ve got a 304 Pentland, on long undercarriage, and a 305 rigged as a crane. There is, or was, an NCK 205 - the English version of the Koehring Bantam, after they bought up Schield, still down in Essex. Kind regards, Steve A

@@steveallarton98 Great stuff, where are you? I've got a Skooper brochure somewhere I never got to work on one but had to sit through all the sales blurb.