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I was always wondering why i liked sealed better than ported even tho ported was always louder. I honestly believe that its the port being out of phase is the reason behind this conundrum. And if you absolutely need that extra output just means we gotta dsp it in. Everything great in life takes at least a little effort on your part.

So my Bose are good right?

Oh no! My system is in a 16’x14’x8’ living room with no room treatment, couch against the wall (non negotiable) and somehow my pretty good bookshelf speakers (kef r3) can output, to my perception, better room filling bass than my ancient 12” jbl pb12 subwoofer that I got for free. With only this comment as a reference, do you think a second pb12 would be more appropriate to put on the opposite wall? Room treatment is in the cards, but it’s a matter of time. Or should I just eliminate the subwoofer, or would a pair more modern subwoofers cut the proverbial mustard? I promise I’m not being a knucklehead, I’m genuinely interested, and I enjoy the videos you produce. Cheers from St Louis MO

Have you ever heard of audyssey one evo? I'd love to see a comparison between it and a manual calibration! Additionally, please please please do a video on how to time align using wavelets!!

I was really hoping you would be showcasing the theater in the thumbnail.

The "golden ears" crowd won't like it! Too cheap, made in China, no bling-encrusted case ...

The Fosi V3 in stereo is a World -beater amp. Look out all you makers of four and five figure amps!

$280 a pair with the 48 volt power supply.

Great video. I started closer to the screen for viewing angle but moved back 24" to mqke the audio "better". Now I need a larger screen. Currently at 126" wide screen 146" back so a 47 viewing angle. Ive calculated my ideal to be a 144" wide screen as well.

Thanks!

Thanks soo much for taking my question and putting this excellent video together. Since my last msg with you Ive researched room gain and now see what you are talking about. Ive modeled the 2 boxes in WinISD and applied room gain to both. The sealed box definitely has much low end extension but only below 10hz. The ported sub performs better from 10hz - 35hz with the peak being at the port tuning frequency (17hz) with +10db. When designing the box (a modified Full Marty) I took care to account for chuffing and I dont think I'd push them hard enough to hear it anyway. I believe you when you say sealed would sound better but I still think I prefer the overhead that comes with the ported design, especially seeing that Im only gaining SPL under 10hz. For anyone interested, I found a great video from "Toids DIY Audio" that explains room gain and puts it to the test. -design and explanation. czcams.com/video/ckrtptREwpo/video.htmlsi=YykNPVlrtWmAiQgu -and the payoff czcams.com/video/mM7F6dWM_dc/video.htmlsi=p2Fqkt6WStB0hu5L

I'm gonna wait til ai can do this crap for me

Couldn’t you use a putty pad as an outlet gasket?

Step 1: have a lot more f money.

I know this video is old but thank you for the explanation. I love JTR about to start my 212 fronts.

So does MSOv2 handle these delays correctly?

Totally agree that aligning the subs and mains is critical. I recently built a pair of subs and when I played them in my system I was so disappointed as they seemed to have no where near the bass output I was expecting. I then tested with REW and it was clear that they were completely out of phase with the mains and causing a large dip around 80 to 120 hz. After getting them aligned, which completely removed the large dip, I was much happier with the bass output. Would love a video explaining how you use the wavelet.

Sir the thumbnail you put here is exactly like my room dimension. But how can i put surround and surround back speakers if i want to go 7.1.4.

I think the "secret" is following the Grimani "acoustic recipe" and get room treatments "perfect". You need to check out the research done by Tom Holman on wides, wides are more important than back surrounds.