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Oh it is. Steep overhang, no holds, and a slope away landing. There's a reason Seb, a V13 climber, shimmied up it like a beached whale. We call that the terror scuttle.

Me too!

Thanks! The best is Flextape. It's really expensive, but you can cut it into small pieces - only takes a small square. Duct tape is a cheaper alternative - T-Rex brand is the stickiest according to Project Farm.

@@Mobeta Thanks for answer! I use something similar to duck tape, but I might try Flextape if I really need something to stick better.

No problem! Flex tape is aggressively sticky. I've been able to reuse if rock's not too dirty. Use scissors you don't care about, and clean them with acetone or goo gone. They gum up fast.

You've had your eye on this line for a while. I remember we talked about Splinter and Requiem 2 years ago in comments on another video. Road trip when?

Lol, I have the perfect line for them. A Ben Smith first ascent in their exact speciality. Check out my latest video for details.

Thanks, it's a stunning location and improbable line!

🤣 which part? Laying down on the slab, crawling across it like an infant, or the V8 crux lip encounter I could have skipped by going left?

Thanks! Fell off last hold in most recent session - so close!

Not too bad time wise - 40 mins total, but 20 of which are straight through a bog. Approach is crux of the climb.

I love you noticed the color coordinated pads - which are home made and indeed created to complement the color of the granite 😁 edit: also what I didn't show is the 1000lbs of loose rubble that was quarried and removed from the landing to make it level. We then used the resulting blocks to pave the landing under Grizzly.

I discussed with with first ascentionist. We will be interested to see a short climber try it. The opening is probably easier as you say, but the top crux might be an issue

Thanks! Wait til you see the summer sun shades!

Glad to hear it! My goal with VLOGS is to make bouldering more accessible in a different way besides the usual topos and beta vids on I put out. I love to see you guys out there getting after it on CZcams! Nice work on Jabberwocky! Thumbnail is hilarious, and that approach is at least V5.

Thanks so much, I appreciate the comment! My goal with the VLOG project is to try and capture what I love about bouldering and I'm glad that came through. Also, I said to my wife last evening that I didn't expect broad appeal for the kneebar meme from a 1995 James Bond film, but someone would get it - I love you appreciated it!

This comment made my day! This is exactly my motivation behind the VLOG project - share the unique bouldering culture that evolved in our tiny corner of the world. If you have any questions I can help with for September, get at me via email.

@@Mobeta will do, thanks!

🤞

Yeah, multiple crux on the left arm. If it doesn't go this spring -I know what I'll be training over the summer!

Yup, email me. I can't post phone numbers here

Glad to hear it! That's my main motivation. I've been putting out a free guidebook for 13 years which helps, but I'm trying to share what actually motivates me with these videos.

That addictive feeling is what keeps me grinding out hundreds of hours of training in the off-season.

Thanks! Roofs are super rare on our granite. This was a real treat.

Thanks so much!

Good eye! That's my dog, she likes to meet me at the top, but there's no dog friendly way up this one, so she's circling frantically searching for one

Awesome! Glad I could share our beautiful blocs. Granite is frustrating, but I believe it's the main reason I'm still so engaged 20 years on. It reveals its secrets slowly.

Thanks so much! It's a lot of work filming so many angles, I'm glad you enjoyed it! I definitely plan on doing a training VLOG in the training season.

Nope, but I can easily cover that in a future video. The setup everyone here uses for working boulders is GriGri, Ascender, and ++ rope protectors. Basically anything reasonable for an anchor. Key it to setup so it can't slide off the boulder - that's the part that takes most care. Full on rope style self belay doesn't work well for projecting boulders. We just pull slack as we go. If it's very overhanging, more complex setups are needed. I have a project coming up this summer that uses an extremely complex setup.

@@Mobeta Also very interested in such a video.

All reality is a game.

Thanks, that means a lot. I am new to this. My goal is to showcase the hidden beauty of Nova Scotia climbing, so I'm glad I succeeded in putting something together that earned your interest

You and me both! I have never been so excited for a project.

Verdad.

Thanks! Well spotted. In Nova Scotia, many of our very best lines are novel titles. We try to pick majestic lines that fit the theme. Ship names are also plentiful in the moderate grades. Wait until you see the line we have planned for Hydrogen Sonata. World class is an understatement.

@@Mobeta Great! Looking forward to it then!

Thanks! This is a new format, so I appreciate the feedback. In terms of optimal rest, there are a lot of factors, but a quick summary: 72hrs is classically optimal from a hypertrophy perspective during a training cycle, but you need to think of send goes as competitionperformance, not a training cycle. Nobody is going to do a workout to exhaustion 72hrs out from competition where they are attempting a PR. Athlete deload leading up to their competitions, with a week of light workouts just to stay fresh. Sending right at your phsycial limit is essentially a full body PR lift. If you try for 5 to utter failure, you aren't likely to in condition for another attempt in another 72 hrs. The long rests is a compromise because climbing requires rehearsal and probability factors (skin, temps, weight, sleep, luck) so we can't program for a peak like traditional sports.

@@Mobeta Cool, thank you so much for the insights. Sounds totally reasonable.

😂 thanks, You know ain't nothin' change but my limp

Thanks, she's the best climbing partner I could hope for ❤️

Sunshades

@@Mobeta seems excessive to drill a hole for something like that. could do something less invasive. duct tape?

@@nomaddevelopers it was duct tape 👍 left no trace, it's 3d printed brackets providing the support for the cardboard shade

@@Mobeta oh good I thought it was screwed in sorry and also then those are some awesome tactics! apologies!

Thanks!

Beautiful memory ❤️