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Chain drive harley is garbage. Direct gear better design.

I installed without issue. Removed both spring in the back. I’ve adjusted cold about 7 times now. The lever release is way to close to the bar. Father from the grip. I’ve adjusted 1/2 a turn. 1 full turn… Still same result. I have maybe a half inch of engagement in the lever to engage clutch it’s terrible what am I doing wrong?

Will the AIM Lockup Kit still work as an easy pull as mine does now with the regular clutch kit

This doesn't explain shit, for 2007 HD hydraulic conversion plates!!!

Will it fit a evo industry terminator? Looks like it would

Why is everyone having a hard time finding them in stock?

Watched your video on changing the clutch plates, I guess the process would be the same for a 2014 Heritage Softail correct? If so thank you for your excellent video. .....

Im fairly sure it will, but does this work with the rekluse extra disk torque drive clutch pack? Stock basket and spring just has the rekluse clutch pack and hold down ring. Thanks in advance

06 883 xl would have the two seating rings in it also?

I need to take mine off to get at the stator etc and three of those bolts are rung now.......Shitemare

Is amsoil primary fluid good to use ?

Excellent

I noticed you didn’t use a compression tool, is that dependent on the specific Harley model? I have a 2004 883

What spring set goes with what HP motor on a harley davidson ?

Screws, a screw is a screw until you put a nut on it, then it's a bolt.

Can I use the c90 boulevard clutch kit on the c109r? I can’t seem to find any good aftermarket heavy duty or performance clutch kits for the c109r specifically. So I’m wondering if I can use one from another bike that would match up like a m109 or c 90 etc.? Additionally does Barnett make a scorpion for the 08 c109r?

Guy missed the one bolt that whole time 😂

The E-Z pull devices are great as long as you can properly adjust the cable which can be an issue. For that reason, we make a simple spacer that can be installed at the lever or midway adjuster - P/N 111-80-28619 (chrome) and 111-80-68619 (black) - 2 spacers per pk.

Good video. You commented on the heavier lever pull with the stiffer clutch spring. I wish you would have mentioned the likes of the "Muller Motorcycle AG Power Clutch" option where the geometry of the disengagement mechanism offers a mechanical advantage to mitigate that stiffness in clutch the lever. I know sometimes performance comes at the cost of comfort, what are your comments about this variation from the stock lever feel?

Hi on my 2007 flhtc i have a probleme with that clutch sweking sound come on wen i do not full release the handel

"shorten the cable adjuster so it's all the way collapsed". What does that mean? They don't take the effort to show you. This video is kinda half ass. Maybe Energy One will show me.

How many friction disc and sleet plates come with the clutch for a 2022 Low rider ST softail

Other than alternating is there an actual order of the discs?

if I do this extra plate kit kevlar in my 2009 street bob and use the stock spring. will it still be a hardder clutch than stock? or same feel? only gets harder with the upgraded HD spring? thanks.

thanks for answereing me

Thank you brother chance

Nice. Next year’s upgrade after the 98” big bore upgrade with 585 cams and ported heads.

CAUTION ! When using this conversion kit you MUST retain the original pressure plate and diaphragm spring. You will need them to remove the Clutch Hub Mainshaft Nut (which has left hand threads) You must remove this nut to remove the primary chain.

This doe not apply to M8 touring bikes. There is a specific order to the way the plates get installed. Luckily I read the instructions and called Barnett to verify this. With that said, love the way my clutch feels now.

what about my 1974 shovelhead 4 speed? is there a kit available for it.also is there a distributer in the uk?

Great video. I am now subscribed

Thank you for telling me to remove those two rings. I wasn’t going to remove them rings

Was the inner friction plate you took out behind the rings ?

Considering the prices we pay for a new H-D, the real question is why doesn't this come stock from the factory?

Estas ajustando mal el clutch, antes de mover el ajustador el chicote o cable debe estar completamente flojo. Después de clocar el ajustador en su posición correcta y apretar ahora si ajustas el chicote o cable hasta que la palanca quede firme.

I installed this kit, now I got a sqeell when I start off in first gear, what is the answer for this?

Well Chance thanks for all your help...You and Barnett suck...Your clutch is impossible to adjust. I followed the instructions you supplied....Followed it to the letter and I have been fucking with this clutch ever since. What a disappointment you, Barnette and your products are....I'll be throwing your brand new clutch in the fucking trash can where it belongs....Try manufacturing something that doesn't take Engineering ...You guys can't handle it..

Do you remove those ring plates for all Harley’s ??? I just installed that clutch and left those ring plates in. Everything went back together, just haven’t turned on the bike.

Thank you so much for this. Just ordered the heavy duty spring as my 103 are getting cams this season. I’ve got a question for you. If i were to not have the courage enough to change my diaphragm spring myself, how much time should my local dealer be able to change this part within? Any complementary clutch parts that you’d recommend or such when already in there? Cheers!

I am assisting in doing one of your kits. What came out of this 2011 Harley with the EVO with the 103 engine. The "assumed" factory installed friction plates and steel plates, seem to be fishy. The parts that came out, or the parts closet to the transmission case, in this order... Friction plate, with larger I.D. (X1). Judder plate, inside of above friction disk (X1). Belleville washer/spring, inside also of above (X1). Then a steel plate (X1). Small I.D. friction disk (X1). Steel. Friction. Steel. Etc.. Here is the issue. One of those steel plates is cone shaped or Belleville shaped, only of them is like this. Other then the shape being like a bellville washer/spring, it is identical to the other steel plates. It is perfectly cone shaped too. Does not appear to have been bent all to heck as it if was mashed to cause the cone shape. Or maybe it was and that is why it is shaped that way? Is this normal? I have never seen this in a clutch pack assemble before and truly seems to be illogical for even wear pattern and to allow for a total clutch disiengagement while holding the clutch handle in, while in gear. And the bike does have friction passing through the few times it was started up. Plus, the pulling out of 1st to get into neutral and exceptionally difficult. I speculate this steel plate acting like a spring never allowing for a total disengagement of power transfer. Yet, that is what came out of the unit, and the bike didn't do this. We have hunted for articles and pictures and videos of this oddity of a bellville shaped steel that is just like the other steel plates, in design, not including the it being cone shaped or Belleville spring look. The parts we purchased from Barnettes Clutches & Cables look great and measure out perfectly. I also speculate that we should have just purchased the steels kit as well. But typically had fair luck in just reusing the steels in many other cases (not Harley stuff) but on foreign units, which is what I personally more familiar with. Any verbal assistance to this strange oddity would be an absolute wonderful and kind gesture to educate me if that part is normal and supposed to be there and if so, where in the stack is it typically designed to be at. Or is this what happens if a steel gets cooked and warps? LoL. Mind you, my good friend is not aggressive with his toys. But parade duty is a common thing, and wonder if that could have caused such a warpage, if that is what caused this single steel plate to be shaped like this? Anybody's assistance will be so helpful.

Very cool and simple language... excellent.

Installed the Exra Plate kit on my Harley along with your stock spring....I made sure I to the two rings out of the clutch basket as you require to be done with the extra plate clutch. If I adjust the center push rod 1/2- 3/4 turn out and lock the nut the damn bike when its hot will not go into neutral .....There isn't enough throw out. Im thinking that is because I changed the ball ramps on the clutch to easy pull ball ramps so that means the ramps aren't as steep therefore the stock 1/2-3/4 turns out won't work. Im not moving the rod far enough because the ramp height is less. So, Im thinking I should adjust the rod so the set screw touches and then do not turn it out at all....What are your thoughts on this...????

Over here to your left buddy

Can you give me the part number to fit 99 Roadking..Plates and Heavy Duty Spring..

I have a 2007 sportster 1200 which seems like trans and primary oil is combined. I read on the instructions that the Harley formula + oil will cause sticking. Which is the better primary/trans oil to run for hard use???

Perfect, thanks Chance!

Why don't you show the Indian 111 clutch install?

Excellent video. Thank you for the calm patient instruction.

What IF I have too much Free play in clutch lever, when adjusting cable I have run out of threads to get rid of slack. My cable is maybe 1.5 years old from Burly Brand , and Your clutch basket # 608-30-10011 maybe has 3K miles on it. Am I supposed to adjust anything on maybe springs after so many miles being new ?

Great video man, very helpful. And your right I don't read the paper till I mess something up 🤣🤣😭