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@Peter-od7op You'd need to take it off and let drain out upside-down through the fill hole. 🤣

@@Jason1Pa someone was saying take off steering wheel fill thru shaft. Is that correct

@Peter-od7op A newer style yes. Old style no. However, it is a very time-consuming, in my opinion. I take out the one bolt on the side and use a squeeze bottle. You can also use corn head grease. I personally wouldn't use regular wheel bearing grease. It drys out after a while.

@@Jason1Pa ty so much

@tysonlarson7412 Yes, you'd need to split the rear half to disconnect the drive shaft from the pinion. You also need to remove the left axle housing so the differential will slide out.

If you keep up with the maintenance on oil changes leaving that little bit of oil in the transmission is no big deal. If you were to drain it out there is no way to fill it with fresh oil. Then you would need to rely on the oil slinger to get oil back into the Sherman from the main transmission. That could take a little while to get full and I wouldn't want to run it around with little to no oil until it would fill up. Also the hole you'd need to make would need to be rather large to make sure the oil draining out wouldn't make a mess and get inside the bell housing and possibly getting on the clutch. Getting the Sherman's plug back in would be interesting working through a small hole in the bell housing. And if you'd drop it, it would lay inside the bell housing with no way to retrieve it. If you'd make the hole too big to eliminate these issues I'd be concerned if possibly having cracks develop later on.

@@bugbomb8048 Thanks!

@gregpratt6926 A lot of people hate it,but a lot of people love it. I currently have 4 tractors that have it and only experienced one failure and it was totally my fault. I didn't have enough resistance. My first tractor to get switched to EI was in 2004 and still going strong. One thing I failed to mention in the video is changing the copper core plug wires

@@gregpratt6926 Thanks for watching!

@@Unknown_Divi 😂🤣 Where?

⁠@@Jason1Pa the one with the red hair in the pink sweatshirt at the beginning in the first float LOL 0:50 😂

@@Anonymous-dt6dq Sure do! It is jbeluschok@yahoo.com

@@Jason1Pa awesome! Did you get my email?

@Anonymous-dt6dq I didn't, but I checked the spam folder then It was there. Not sure why that happened..I'll reply

@@Jason1Pa thanks for getting back to me I send you a follow up email!

@JeffSmallwood-p8i I do not. Sadly some of the key components are not available. For example the counter shaft in this particular one I later found out was worn too much to my liking so I had a local company make me one and heat treat it. That alone was 400 dollars. They are a very expensive adventure and most people would not pay or wait for someone to scrounge up parts. Even with all the work and expenses put in to this one it growls too much for my liking. If you watch my other video of me installing it into the tractor we found out that the brand new shafts teeth on the gears was not meshing well with the tractors gears so I went with the original shaft. Finding a original shaft that meets the specs would be difficult. Most of the tractors you see are pretty well beat up and so are the Sherman's. I personally would not feel comfortable rebuilding one for someone.

I wouldn’t mind trying it myself but like that pin that you made I took my plug out and mine is either broken and down under that rod or it’s just plain missing and I do not have anything to go by, also I can’t shift it that’s why I think it’s under the rod, also the main gear the one that goes in the transmission has a lot of play I can actually pull it out enough to see the bearing I may be better off parting it out

@@JeffSmallwood-p8i That is normal for the gear to come out like that. It's held in place when it's bolted together in the tractor. Finding the proper amount of shims will adjust the back and forth moments just right.

Any ideas on that pin I honestly think I could rebuild this if I know what size to make this thing, also I never saw on the video of how to start taking those two shift rods out

​@JeffSmallwood-p8i The pin is 5/16 hardened steel. As far as the length I don't remember I just took a little but off here and there until it fit to my liking. It doesn't need to be real precise. As far as those rods once the detent balls/springs are removed and the set screws of the forks are removed they should slide right out.

@FTT143 Awesome! I'm glad you enjoyed it!

@benkanobe7500 Everything Ford related in my videos the parts are purchased from Just8ns. com

@@Jason1Pa Thank you for the wonderful how to video as my tractor is leaking in that exact spot and I see so many others doing the same. On a chance, I tried Just8ns before getting this and they did not list the seal by that number but one digit higher. So I purchased two and in the notes explained I did not find the pitman arm steering shaft seal when I searched but found the one I purchased and if it wasn't correct to please advise me. They are good folks so I suspect they will fix it if I made a mistake. Thanks again and I look forward to more videos from you!

@benkanobe7500 Number:8N3591A should be what you are needing for the seal. If any questions I'd call Derek at Just8ns and ask just to be safe.

@@Jason1Pa OK. I did. (They did). Your video shows "8N3581B" which is why I was confused. But as stated, the good folks at Just8ns saw I ordered the "8N3591A" as that was what was available in the position picture for that seal so in the end, I have the correct seals. (Now I need to get the correct Felt as what was sent looks nothing like what you installed). Thanks again, excellent video!

@benkanobe7500 no problem. Glad you got it straightened out!

@delgriffith1 I don't have any hands on experience with the 860 front ends,but looking on the parts diagram it appears that I don't see any spacers listed which seems rather odd. On the 8N it does call for one spacer then a washer/spacer. I added more cause there was enough slop. I jacked up the front high and rocked the front end up and down and there was no binding. You do need some play for front to back movement, but it's not much. I try to keep the strain off of the radius arms where they insert into the socket near where you feet go.

@@Jason1Pa Makes sense that it wouldn't need a lot of play back and forth to accommodate radius arm swing. The full inch of slop concerns me on my 860. Tempting to put in spacers but at the same time that was the design it seems.

@delgriffith1 Yeah I wish I could offer more help or even look at another one but I don't know anyone that has one. It just doesn't seem right to have that movement.

Glad you like them!

Thanks Steve!! I really want to get back into making some more videos just haven't found a project worth filming. Fingers crossed that will change. Tomorrow I'm heading out to the Northeast John Deere Expo out in Lancaster Ohio. I'll definitely be looking at the crawlers differently now!🤣

Awesome! Have a safe and fun trip... and YES! Please make more videos! Just one walking around that show would be great!

I'm sorry it took so long to get back to you. CZcams sometimes doesn't notify me when I get a message. The seal gets pressed in the whole way.

I don't have a in depth video unfortunately however here are a couple things. You can check. Grab the PTO shaft (tractor off of course and override clutch off) and see if there is any in and out movement. There really shouldn't be any. If there is there could be a bad snap ring,bearing, etc, damaged causing that slop and creating it to jump out of gear. There is also a small spring and ball (detent ball) in the bearing coupler. That is what your PTO lever hooks up too. If that spring or ball is damaged it will be weak and cause it to jump out of gear. Here is a video of the bearing coupler if your not familiar. Fast forward to the 16:40 mark. czcams.com/video/19yITWEWcbk/video.htmlsi=zJNPUu4OmXx1F_Vd

It's unlikely you will find a nut that size a fine tread at a hardware store. I searched through some parts places and to my surprise I don't see new ones. Your best bet is to contact someone that is parting out a 8n to get you some.

Good to hear! Thanks for watching!

Thanks!! Yes they like to get out boogie down the road!

Thanks for watching!! You can email me at jbeluschok@yahoo.com with questions.

I'm sorry I just noticed your reply. Did you get it going?

I don't like how the hoods look after that. Unless it's a 60hp one and the hood doesn't need altered

Not on a 8n

@@Jason1Pa ok thanks. Any that style tractor would probably do. Can you tell me on an 8n should the peddle travel all the way down when pressed down? It’s stopping right after the free play. Just bam that’s it. About half way down. Thanks

@moparornocar3764 Yes it should go all the way down to the running board. If not it almost sounds like your pressure plate is stuck

As I split it again the clutch plate had slipped a little & wouldn’t let the shaft into the pilot because I tried the alignment tool and it wouldn’t slide in. Next time I tightened the pressure plate evenly and made sure the tool would slide all along through the process. So it is back in the pilot now everything looks good peddle goes down a lot further. I guess it’s in the adjustment now. Going try and adjust it tomorrow.

Well I split it again ,three times. This time I’m going to adjust the fingers on the pp. they aren’t being pressed. Seems it isn’t touching the fingers. I’m gona try and tighten them down some to pull the fingers up. Do you know of an easy way to do this , some say 060 not sure where or what to measure. Thanks again.

🤣😂😅 Sometimes you have no choice. Just hope that you don't have a stubborn one.

Thanks your welcome!

20 Ton

You are absolutely correct. At the time of this video I was not aware of this until 4 years later. As you said it's not in the directions. Fortunately. In my opinion the cheap square coils we have available today are pretty weak compared to the round oil filled coils. In my opinion they don't produce enough juice to create the electromagnetic pulse that could destroy the module. I have since replaced all the plug wires on all my Fords just to be safe, but I had several hours on the old copper wires with no issues.

Thanks Will!!

Sorry for the late reply. Sometimes CZcams doesn't notify me until later that someone posted a comment. This debate comes up often and I agree the directions need to be better. I currently have all 3 of my Fords having the red wire to the top of the coil. Only one of them needed a extra resistor and I have it right into the coil wire and I haven't had any issues. Some say you need to take that red wire from the module and run it straight to the ignition. All I can say is I've never done it and never had a failure.

Yes I do use AVS. Hope this helps you on your repair. If you need help just ask

Thanks George!!

Where are you looking at? Just8ns and Dennis Carpenter are at 289 last I checked. Still cheaper then getting them fixed at a local shop. Last shop I went to said at least 600

@@Jason1Pa yeah I got a new one from Just8ns for the 289 plus shipping.

If it is a 54 it would be known as a model NAA . The Golden Jubilee is a NAA but in 1953 (Fords 50th Anniversary) the NAA is referred to a Golden Jubilee. The only thing different about a 1953 is the emblem that says Golden Jubilee. They are a big improvement over the 8N. First is the overhead valve engine, better hydraulics ,etc.

Harbor Freight has them.

Awesome! Thank you for the compliments! Sometimes I get told I talk to much,but I like to explain things the best I can. I could go on and on,but realize I'll lose people's attention. Unfortunately this day in age people just want a quick answer and nothing else.

I've personally never done it,but I've heard of others do it. However I would expect if they are that worn I'd bet all the other important parts are worn-out beyond repair. Like the output shaft and counter shaft. At that point I'd call the whole thing junk

Hi! Yes this question comes up often. Some things to consider are 1) The hole you would need to drill in the tractor to have access to the plug of the Sherman would need to be fairly large to make sure the oil that's being drained exits completely or it could touch the flywheel and get flung all over the clutch. 2) drilling yet another hole even larger then the one for the shifter lever could possibly have a effect on the strength of the casting. 3) You could put a pipe up in there and have it exit the bottom with a cap on it BUT with the tractor so low to the ground it wouldn't take much to break the pipe off one something. The Sherman doesn't really hold that much oil. Even if that oil is nasty it would be diluted fairly good in the fresh 5 gallons of the main transmission. Another thing is if you'd drain the Sherman empty there is no way to add new oil to it. Oil would need to work its way in there with the oil slinger and that could take a while of driving for that to happen. The Sherman would be turning for a while with little to no oil for a while.

@@Jason1Pa Dumb me...

@@benkanobe7500 The only way to know is to ask. Thanks for watching.

Yes. I have another ford with brand new 12.4x28 on it. Sometimes I wished they were not on there. Pros and cons to it.

That's awesome!! It's so hard to find any old tractor these days that are not worn-out. I leave my Sherman in Standard drive. Only use High to go down the road in 4th. To me the regular gearing is fine other then reverse. Even with the Sherman in low it still doesn't slow it down enough. The Sherman is a good conversation piece, but I'd never invest in another one again.

It's not easy. You have to break off rivets on the gear end. Then you have double nuts that need to come off in the splines side. Why do you want to remove it? Unless the gear is totally trashed or bearing is bad let it be. Some people will even get a whole other housing with one in it already and place.

@@Jason1Pa thanks. I am restoring the tractor and painting everything. I wanted to take everything out of the housing and get it dipped in acid. The animation from Just8ns makes it look like it just bolts in.

@jjay718 No unfortunately it doesn't just bolt in. If you look at that metal piece that directs the oil it is riveted in

@@Jason1Pa I dont want to take that piece out that directs oil. Someone said you can bolt a slide hammer to the front of the pinion shaft where it is threaded. Sucks to take it down this far and not be able to remove the pinion.

@jjay718 That I don't know. If I remember correctly that piece needs to come off. There is like a plate that holds that bearing in place on that end. My memory is a little fuzzy plus I've never taken one out. I just remember guys choosing to swap out the rears simply to avoid that repair. There has to be a reason. I'm curious let me know what you find out.

It's not too bad. Heat is your friend or shop press will get it done too

I guess because I didn't change it.🤣 However pointed side facing radiator.

Everything (all parts) were purchased from Just8ns .com

If all my wiring is current and good, can I just change the points to the EI?

@fuesselfc Yes. However you need to test the coil for resistance to see if you need a extra resistor or not.

Ok, I know I currently have a 12v setup, ballast resistor back of dash, and no additional resistor in line

@fuesselfc So you will want to do a ohms test on your coil. If you are not in the resistance of 3.0 to 3.5 I'd highly recommend adding one of those simple white ceramic resistors in the wire that goes to the coil.