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Hello Sasha Thanks for the video. I am using the same screen as you for post processing but I am really struggling to get good color matches between what I see on the screen and what appears when I upload on astrobin or facebook. What presets are you using ? Internet & Web (sRGB) ? Thanks Damien

Stellarmate Pro is worth a mention

I’m so glad I found this! Thank you! Well done sir

I have a Mele Quieter 3Q. 4 USB3 ports 16gb ram, 256g ram and 256g NVME running NINA. I mount it on a C8 SCT. It seems to work well enough with NINA. The only application that runs slow is Stellarium. I use a Bluetti lithium power station, EB55. It supples power to my mount, minipc, camera and auto focuser. I'm not a Windows user, so I searched youTube and found a great video on Patriot Astro channel on how to setup a minipcu with NINA and non astro features like Remote Desktop , a hot spot or using a travel router for remote locations. It runs Windows 11. It works fine but MS Remote Desktop on a tablet can be frustrating. I recommend a cheap tablet pen if your tablet supports one. Once polar alignment is finished I can come inside a remote into with my MacBook Pro. However, I don't trust my computer or mount so when I need to slew to a target or Meridian Flip is about to start I go outside to observe. I also have an ASIAir 256. I had some compatibility issues with the ASIAir and my AVX mount which pushed me to go the NINA route.. These issues seem fix in the latest ASIAir beta so I may start using the Air again. You can run the ASIAir app on Mac silicon (M1 through M3) . Probably if the Air software/firmware was updated to accept ASCOM I would ditch the minipc. On my MacBook Pro M3 14" I use it for processing images with Siril. Eventually I'll move to Pixinsight I suppose. I also have a copy of Parallels 19 for Windows only applications. primarily for planet processing applications.

Just to add another option similar to the ASI Air, I run the free Astroberry installation on a Raspberry Pi 4 mounted on my 8" Ritchie Chretien 'scope. Whilst Astroberry suits my needs completely it is not that popular so the there is not much in the way of regular updates to it, if at all. For me it controls my HEQ5 mount, my ASI294MC Pro camera, my ASI178 off axis guide camera and connects to my GPS dongle. I connect to it with my iPad or a Windows laptop using VNC remote desktop while I am out at my dark site. I need the Windows laptop when I am setting up to polar align using a Polemaster camera which is Windows only. I don't have a filter wheel or motorised focusser. If I had the cash to spare I'd love an Eagle 5 but cannot possibly justify it considering how well Astroberry works for me and considering that any astrophotography kit will spend most of its life sitting in a cupboard given the weather here in the UK.

Three points: 1) With the mini-PC option, you also need to factor in the cost of a power distribution box; this is part of the feature set of the ASI Air and the Eagle, but generally not a mini-computer. 2) When buying a new computer I always buy more processing power and disk space than I currently need because in a year or so whatever software I am using will require it. This extends the usable life of the device and ends up saving money in the long run. The Eagle XTM is, as you said, over the top, but I went with the Eagle 5 Pro over the regular Eagle 5 for just this reason. For processing, I bought a "gaming laptop," even though I'm not much of a gamer, because computers marketed to gamers provide a lot of processing power for a relatively low price. Computers marketed for businesses and "professionals" tend to priced more steeply for the same capability because businesses can afford to pay more. I bought a top-of-the-line gaming laptop and a large, high-quality monitor, and it runs PixInsight very quickly. 3) When buying a computer for processing, make sure it has an NVIDIA graphics chip. Some of the processing steps are significantly faster with an NVIDIA GPU. (Disclosure: I used to work for NVIDIA, but I no longer have any affiliation with the company. I wish I still owned my stock though; I'd be able to retire right now.)

I did astro without 2 computers for years, yes 2 is much easier but not necessarily needed

I started my astrophotography experience years ago with ASI air. After a while I thought it would be fun to use Nina. I found the necessity to use many support applications / drivers and generally dealing with windows a big pain in the ass. And Nina was overkill for my needs. So I went back to ASI air since I believe in keeping things as simple as possible. By the way you are incorrect in saying ASI air can't be run from a computer. In the most recent version I am able to install its app on my Mac studio and control it from there. After exploring the PC alternative I am convinced that ASI air does all I need and more in a much more user-friendly way. I really enjoy your tutorials.

Love your channel. Keep up the great work 🤩

Albino Quest app supports this light pollution map

WAIT!!! YOU FORGOT THE X-RAY SCRIPT! I've already ordered the Icarus-filter (czcams.com/video/8QzXeUe1xg8/video.html) and this script would be a game changer. When can we expect this? 🤣

I have a procedural question. At what stage in the normal workflow of the images should DBXTRACT be used. Right after WBPP while still linear? If you had a workflow say of SPCC, BXT, NXT and SXT followed by GHS of the starless image where in this would you stop to run DBXTRACT?

Also owner of an OSC Moravian C1x 26000 what model of filter wheel, adaptator and OAG did you choose with your camera ? The website isn't very clear. Does the OAG fit with ZWO camera like the ASI mini 120 ? With the M48 OAG it seems there is a a small penalty of light vignetting. Have you seen it ? Thanks for the answer and nice job

Thank you for this (and previous!!) tutorial! would it e a way to change the wavelength on he Sii+Oiii filter? my second filter is a Sii+Hb, I suppose I'm losing data... thank you!

The repository does not work for me, it fails to find any scripts. My pixinsight is updated and looks like other people have a problem with this too

This signature script is easier then the resize, crop and pixelmath add I used to use. I'll certainly try it! Thanks for letting us know about this scripts!

This list of requirements might work for you viewing your own images but if you are sharing them on such places like social media or you want to print your images you are better off making sure that the monitor you are using covers the full color space and that you calibrate your monitor. I have a datacolor SpyderX Pro that I use on my monitor to calibrate the colors and the brightness of the screen at least once a month. This is especially important if you intend to print your images.

With the German Equatorial mounts it is generally accepted that only half the stated payload is recommended when imaging but does this same rule apply for harmonic drives? I have watched many reviews, and it is never stated clearly whether this also applies to these harmonic drives. Another question I have yet to find a clear answer is if there is a difference between installing the mount on a tripod verses a concrete pier? It would seem to me that a head mounted on a concrete pier would be much more stable and common sense says it should be able to carry more of a payload and still maintain the accuracy needed for imaging. Your thoughts would be appreciated.

Some really good points. I never go beyond 5 minute exposures now because of satellite trails. I know you can process them out but they are a pain. I’ll rethink my flats now when I use my scopes with filter wheels. Sadly my Hyperstar rig has a drawer so that will still need them done more often.

Very helpful. Thank you.

Thank you for this and the other 2 parts. I’ve used NINA for a couple of years, but still learned new things. Much appreciated.

Just got my Askar D1 and D2 filters. And last night was able to get 20 frames each with D1 and D2 for M17 Nebula. In your video, before your use the dbxtract Script, you have two colour images. After doing the Stacking for the two images, and then load the two Stacked images into Pixlnsight, what processes have you used to get the two colour image ? Do we apply - ScreenTransferFuntion, GradX, SNCR, NoiseX, AutomaticBackgroundExtraction etc etc, to arrive at the two colour images, and now apply distract ?

That was very helpful. Thanks very much!

Excellent channel and love your thoroughness!

Thanks for addressing those first 3 issues, hahaha

After two months of research into refractors, this was the video where I finally decided on Asker 103 APO, more specifically, it was when you pointed out that the imperfection with the 0.6 reducer can easily be corrected with BlurXTerminator. "Would you pay more for a scope that makes round stars, when, after using BlurXTerminator, you wouldn't be able to tell the difference?" The answer can (and probably will) be debated, but it made all the difference for me. I had almost decided on the 107 PHQ, because of it's exceptional optic performance, it was just too expensive. I'm now completely comfortable with choosing the 103 APO as my first refractor, after over a decade with SCT. Unfortunately, my new 103 APO is stuck in New Zealand customs, but I hope to get it some time this year 🙂 ...and let me thank you for one of the best astrophotography channels around! I'm subscribed here and on your Patreon channel, and I'm in particular looking forward to follow your adventures with the 103 APO!

Beautiful picture.

Xray would have been the best script, if it existed 🙂

Really helpful video. Thanks, Sacha.

Thanks a lot, for these scripts I am waiting for long!!

Sascha...where did you create your signature?

Orton Glow repository not working. Network Error.

Dank dir für den Überblick!

Links for the repositories aren't working for me

Thanks

Awesome video, as usual. Thank´s.

As Always. Excellent explaination, unbiased with examples.

I love the ALP-T and it works well with the Askar D2. I tried the C1 and C2 but was not overly impressed. Im in bortle 5/6 so it's not too bad here. I'm looking to go mono but the cost is crazy. Yes mono cameras are more expensive than OSC and the filters are almost as much as the telescope. anyway, it's only money, right?

Nice interview and experience with the scope, but I had hoped for some more images. Especially a comparision of the 3 focal lenghts on the same target. I bought the scope two months ago with the 1.0 flattner being in backorder, showing a few weeks ago. I have used the scope with the full 700mm without a flattner on the sun to successfully image an ISS transfer in fromt of the sun that luckily happend directly in my backyard. For a scope of that price the build quality is really good. I'm still waiting to put it to the test at night.

Hey Sacha. Thanks for this video. Enjoying each training session. I usually image with an OSC camera and Optolong L-Ultimate in my Bortle 7 that initially contained sodium vapor street lamps. Recently they’ve changed them to LED lights. What filters would you recommend or can I still continue using the L Ultimate?

Hi Sasha, interesting video. After watching it, last night I shot 10 minute subs using 120APO w/ reducer & ZWO AM5 mount. Result was good, little bit eggy in the corners though. Ran Blur Ext this morning and perfect stars. To be totally honest, I don’t know why everyone isn’t shooting 10 minute subs with tools like blur & noise XTerminator. Very little downside. Benefits are reduced disk space and faster processing. What do you think?

Thanks!

First that we look at is not resolution, but pixel size. This with scope will define image scale. Image scale and then FOV are essential for astrophotography. This is a reason we select pair: scope and camera. One of major mistakes by beginners: selecting scope and camera separately. Then, it leads to chain of mistakes. So, sequence of selection is Scope+camera, then camera attachments (filer wheel, rotator, etc), then focuser and only then mount.

Robinson Linda Thomas Jessica Garcia Amy

What is your estimated probability that a full frame sensor would show stars near the edges that are also BXT fixable when using the 1.0 flattener or the 0.8 reducer?

The channel Astronotna has Askar 103 reviews and imaging videos. I use a C8 SCT. If I need to go wide I’ll probably just get a Hyperstar. I only shoot one target per night. Seven months without being able to image. That’s rough. My summer here in the US hasn’t been that clear.

Based on various comments I can now confirm that the backfocus of the x0.6 reducer is exactly 58mm.

Thanks Sasch for your 'practical guideles', I've seen it and I run the flow quite well. Keep it on. Regards

You are the only one I found to say you need the dr3 not the dr3sp for the image solver to work then I have in the Gaia I put the dr3 in the Gaia dr3, then the dr3sp in the Gaia dr3/sp thank you so much

FWHM? Askar: Great Marketing, good machining, budget glass and correction