Video

Thanks 👍

Hi, the body is fixed by two small screws, accessible once removed the plastic cover on the roof. The covering, which is between the two pantographs, is fixed by four little clips to the roof itself. It may well be that when opening it, some of the clips break, as the plastic is old and has lost it's elasticity. On one of the models, I have re-fixed it with a small amount of patafix, that is not visible and permits reopening.

@@jocksandme thank you for your answer! I will try!

Yes. Pls send me the video link once published. Thanks

Gracias!

Hi Yves and thanks for the question/comment. Now the beauty of the LM334 is that you can set a fixed current regardless the voltage applied. This is an advantage in case of analogic DC feeding, the only fireback is that it's starts to be efficient (to work) at a minimum voltage of 5V. Coming back to your question about LED If and the maximum brightness: here the secret is to purchase ONLY the very efficient ones. As said the ones available vary a lot, in average from 150mcd to 3000mcd at max current (20mA). In case of very efficient ones, I can assure you that to reproduce a realistic lighting, I frequently use even higher resistors, up to 120ohms. It all depends on how many LED in parallel are connected and the color of the interiors of the car. Another positive effect is that the duration of the charge of the capacitor is higher. Or you can use a smaller cap. Believe me, even at very tiny currents these LED edmit a considerable amount of light. For the locomotives: you could use the LM334, but honestly I never do it. Instead I use a series resistor, value in dependance of the locomotive. Normally never lower that 1,5Kohm, as if not the light would be so strong, that it would be visible through the plastic body. It is true that the luminance varies a bit with the voltage, but to me this is neglectable. To me the point is not to run LEDs at the maximum current available, but to reproduce corrently the luminance of the real thing. Thanks for watching and reading!

@@jocksandme Thank you for your answer and the video! Great stuff!

Vielleicht, weil der vordere abgefallen war? Oder weil er geklaut wurde? Oder weil er kaputt war?

@@KuesterKarl Schlaue Antwort... War eine serioese Frage...

@@danielthommen8243 Ja, das ist mir klar, aber angesichts der kriegsgeilen Weltlage, die zu allgemein gestiegener (unbewusster) berechtigter Grundangst führt, versuche ich bei verschiedenen (auch seriösen) Gelegenheiten, ein bisschen Humor einzustreuen. Mit Humor stirbt es sich einfach leichter - egal ob durch freundliches oder feindliches Feuer. Und mit einem kleinen Lächeln im Gesicht gibt man auch eine hübschere Leiche ab ...🤓

Hello Bernd and thanks. The technique is explained in the video "N Scale LED Advanced Lighting System - Beleuchtung System Spur N" in my channel. Double deck cars like this, or the Swiss DoSto (on my channel again), require smaller led form factors like "0805" SMD. You have to look powerful ones, 2000 to 3500mcd types. Upper deck and lower deck are both lighted with their own sets, but feeded by the same circuit. And leds face the pavement, as there is no space for the reflection on the ceiling. Hope it helps! cheers

Thanks Gert!

Hi, thanks for the comment. Don't find it particuilarly noisy, maybe it is the recording which is too high. Consider also that the model and the mechanics come from the 70ies! Additionally the model has no rubber tyres, which would to some extent reduce the transmission of the noise.

@@jocksandme Yeah I appreciate it's old technology. I don't mind a bit of noise and in some respects prefer old models with brass gearing, I run quite a few N locos from the late 60s onwards as well as modern production. I've actually just picked up one of these that should be in very good condition (not arrived yet), I've always fancied one for the collection although my main focus is German N.

Thanks!

Thanks!

Not mine David. Before the model did: power up at a much higher voltage, draw much more current, the powder of the brushes frequently dirtied the rotor thus stucking the motor itself. Also the model was not able to work at that low speed. Another life, at least for mine!

Hi Keith, thanks again! Any creative idea to enhance or ease the work is for sure welcome. As soon as you experience something good, you should share it, can't wait to see!

Hi Yavianice, thanks. Yes the model has been equipped with SMD LED white/red for the two bottom lights, and a 3mm LED for the upper one. it is briefly shown at 4:15. Note the black carton for the 3mm LED, made to separate the upper light from spreading to the cabin.

Hi Keith, thanks! If you go at 12:52 in the video, the example is on a Minitrix car. As you may see, after dismantling completely the car (meaning unlocking the interior fittings, fixed normally with clips on the sides - be careful of close coulpling springs that will fall off) you will see that the bogies are fixed to the chassis with a small spring washers. If you want to remove the bogies, just force the washers with a small screwdriver. If not simply brake the protuberance as in the video and build the current distributors under the fittings and windows (if you like). The current will be picked up by normal collectors (even commercial ones) under the bogies. Hope it helps!

@@jocksandme Thanks, was coming to the conclusion that the protuberance had to go. Have converted your system in to a PCB lightbar carrying the LEDs beneath and the rectifier, tantalus capacitor, current regulator and resistor above. Power is transferred from the bogies to interior courtesy of 12BA nuts, bolts and washers. 12BA are just the right size to fit in the holes through the bogies. By the way, the interiors on new minitrix coaches are retained by those same blasted clips that hold the bogies on!

Good to know, would be curious to see your conversion to the PCB lightbar, you should publish it! The tantalus capacitors are great, but need a stabilized voltage. In conventional powering (meaning old transformers and old motors, with a lot of spikes), I have experienced a lot of tantalum failures, and unfortunately some real car damages. Those things really burn if something goes wrong :(

@@jocksandme Please e-mail me at kp130849@gmail.com as I would like to give you the background as well as the drawings.

Thanks a lot!

yes sure

:'(