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@@danielwatkins286 we were going to do that and that def would’ve been easier but he didn’t want to cut it and it didn’t come with one unfortunately

@@GetItAtWiLL nobody's going to know

@@danielwatkins286 if I was my car I would do the access door for sure

@@yosbelcueto20 priorities lol

@@uncledrew5513 yea you get driver and passenger bank mufflers

@@byrdcity6490 I’m glad you were able to get it done and even better if this was able to help. The drivability on the TSP cam even being stage 3 is great. Cruise is just like a stock cam. I think it cruises around 2100-2200k rpm in 6th around 75 mph but I’d think the stage 2 N/A can wouldn’t be terrible down low. I don’t know the specs but are you tuned already?

@@GetItAtWiLL Yeah, she’s tuned already. But it’s shaky cruising down low with city traffic, and keeping the rpms at 1,200 rpm. I’ve been messing with my tune in hp tuners and got it driving better than my tuner. Texas speed stage 2 N/A Cam specs: 229/244 .629"/615” 112 LSA, 109 ICL

@@byrdcity6490 interesting I know they some cams do buck down low but usually with a good tune and once you get rolling a bit it’s not to hard to sustain a normal drive feel but I have to look at the specs on the stage 2 supercharger cam I forgot what they were lol

@@GetItAtWiLL it’s only when i give part throttle and try to maintain a certain speed.

@@byrdcity6490 hmmm still sounds a bit weird what speeds are you at when this happens and what gear are you in

I may have an answer lol what’s up?

CZcams or IG page for it?

Not sure yet still getting initial base tune etc but it should be good for 800 rwhp-ish full tilt. Piston and rods could prob take more but it’s still stock mains just with arp hardware

I love it and so far it’s been working good too

It’s running like normal. It’s my daily and my only car rn. Past 100k on the odometer maybe a month ago. Other than cosmetic things I need to touch up it’s great. LSA setup hasn’t skipped a beat yet (knocks on wood)

No this is a 6 speed so no torque converter here. My SS has the stage 1 on the stock converter no issues and I think i could’ve gotten away with the stock converter on the Texas speed stage 2 as well with a good tune. But of course a converter would help bring out the performance

No issues I just did the plugs and used the stock valley

Yea I think I’m a bit better now hopefully

Thanks I appreciate it

Staying busy! Can’t wait to see it running. Working on RACP issues on ours.

@@Collins_BMW hey it’s getting there and got it running. Some vids will be coming soon

I appreciate it man. Just showing how I went through my process not perfect but it’ll work

Around that time I’d say it was approx 3k give or take, but the supercharger was cheaper then. I paid $700 for it back when I got it. Def not getting an LSA for that now. Lid was $400 new. $2-300 for the heat exchanger and the other $1k for the miscellaneous parts and tools give or take. And obviously doing it all myself kept cost down

Mannnnn that sh*t pissed me off sooooooo much. Literally the hardest part of the entire swap

Why do you say that?

@@GetItAtWiLL that's jmo. They just don't look good at end of day. I'd sell it and get a 4th-gen. There's a nice 99 ws6 formula for sale on ebay right now 😎 i know nobody asked or cares what i think 😂

@@Ballen1182 lol to each its own. I’m not a huge fan of 5th gen either I prefer the 6th but he loves the car (it’s not mine, my friends car). Plus LS3 🤷🏾‍♂️

Aye fam lol let’s hope im not missing anything 🤣🤣

Appreciate the videos! Nice to have a heads up on what’s to come. Still a ways behind you as we just got the long block all assembled. Keep going, can’t wait to see this thing moving.

@@Collins_BMW thanks for the encouragement. Hopefully I’ll have it running at least here in the next month. Working on fuel lines, cooling and exhaust this week or 2. Can’t wait for you to start getting into your build too

Aye bro I appreciate it. I’m not pro just showing what worked for me. Thank you man

Preciate that. I’m working on it as we speak. Once these parts all hit I can hit the ground running

Aye let’s gooo. I’m just ready to get this thing situated but I am enjoying the process

It wasn’t re-used. Only used the old bolt to pull the balancer back on and then swapped to a new bolt to torque/stretch to spec

Let me check and see if I still have the tool I need. I’d be down. Hit my IG. The page should be in my CZcams profile

I have never changed an oil pump with a cam swap I know a lot of people do the meiling pumps but the OEM pumps work great and I’ve never had an issue with one not being effective because of the cam. And most LS3’s run the same stock push rod length unless modifications or machining has been done

@@GetItAtWiLL when changing the springs how did you keep the valves from dropping to the piston? Was it just making sure they're top dead center? I've seen other vids using air compression to hold the valve up is it necessary or TDC should hold the valve?

@@omygunny4978 compressed air is the easiest but if you don’t have a compressor to do that then yes make sure that specific cylinder you changing the springs on is at top dead center. So the valve may drop a tad but it’ll hit the top of the piston and won’t go down any farther

Yes. While you could prob get it to crank and run it won’t run optimially and if it’s a big cam it will prob stutter and stumble but if it’s a mild small cam you can prob crank and drive it ok but it still isn’t going to run optimally or be taking advantage of the cam.

You can use the old bolt to pull it on and remove it and torque with the final bolt assuming it’ll work with whatever installer tool you bought

It’s an aluminum hood lol but that is good advice for other metals that do rust. I believe I did put some paint to the cut edges though before final install just didn’t film it.

Naw. Sorry. All the stuff done to the car is on this page. It’s still his daily though.

I removed it from the top and yes I used an impact on the balancer. Apologies for the delayed response.

Headers aren’t required but they will definitely help you see more power gains and take advantage of the cam. And obviously it’ll sound way better or imo

Give me a bit to try and find it lol I def don’t remember and have to go search for it

20 ft lbs is what I found and also what I used. The bolts are technically 1 time use (torque to yield) bolts but I did reuse mine

No wiring. It was plug and play

No check eng light. Everything worked properly

@@GetItAtWiLL thanks bro

I kept the drip tray on the underside that came with it so it collects the water and drains it all to the front in front of the belt drive. However even if it did I think where the water would land wouldn’t prove too troublesome. But that’s why I kept the tray just in case

No stock bottom end, stock heads. Just the cam, exhaust and supercharger for the most part. Back then you could do this build for $3-4k but you could get the LSA for like $800-1200 back then but now the LSA themselves are prob $2-3k but I’d say you could still do the full build for $4-5k if you keep it simple and you know how to do things yourself of course. But it’s not a challenging build.

I’m glad it could help some. Lol this is still newer to me too in terms of eng but I was planning to have a street/weekend driftable car. I want to get into drifting and while there are def better ways I’m also into exploring new stuff so I went this route.

Stage 2, it chops too but prob would’ve even done 3 if I could do it again but I don’t see the option for it on their site anymore

@@GetItAtWiLL Did you change the torque converter? If not how is the drivability? Does it push through the brakes and buck alot when stopped

@@slickrickdarula9483 this was a manual so I didn’t have those issues. I’d imagine a stage 3 you def need an upgrade of some sort. But a stage 2 with an automatic you could prob get away with with some sacrifices

@@GetItAtWiLL Thanks bro!!! I was looking at one of the comments and you where talking about the timing chain I don't understand what was meant by the chain being of by one tooth. And something about a paint marker?

@@slickrickdarula9483 yea the cam and crank have to be in a certain alignment to be in time. I had the came sprocket misaligned by 1 tooth initially. Essentially the timing marks weren’t aligned

Hey man if I can help in any way let me know

I’d imagine so. This is a 2017 and it does so I think so. I dont remember if it changed but I’m not 100%

Stock bolt works. I bought a new OEM one to use.

There is increased valve train noise with the higher pressure springs and headers. That with the oil having to circulate to the heads and get everything lubed. It’s normal and subsides. It was perfectly fine.

First off thanks a ton. I appreciate the view and as for the gaskets they were OEM GM gaskets. I believe part number is #28-12688943. Or that’s what it’s listed as in Texas Speeds site. Just search the numbers in there. I know TSP has their own head gasket too that should be the same as the OEM for like $10 cheaper too.

@@GetItAtWiLL okay thank you im thinking of doing the same to my 21’ LT1 Camaro and the vid really helps bc its a real situation so thank you

@@ratliffmikejr hey no problem. Let me k ow if I can help any. That’s 4 years later but I’d imagine not too much is different.

Lol it was on there good enough to where I knew it wouldn’t fall off but I could’ve tightened it but hey. A lot of things were loose. I think the PS pump was hanging on by wax string lol

@@GetItAtWiLL I've been there. We get too excited to get it running lol

@@CarModsGarage exactly lol

Amen 🙏🏾🙏🏾 lol I didn’t have it tighten down at that point but I’m aware it was loose. I was impatient ready to try and start it lol. It’s firm now