Video

FINALLY! Someone who doesn't just bolt down his lift on a dubious unknown quality 4'' slab. Thumbs up for showing it

Is the rear lifting on the leaf springs? I have a 68 and just ordered the 7000 lb lift and haven’t even looked under the Camaro yet.

How much did it run you for the footers? I might have to do this too

My brother I need your wisdom on body work I’m looking at my 69 z28 shell like a cave man scratching my head

Great video. I ordered a MaxJax lift and I will certainly take much of your advice when I install my lift!

Thank you for this video, very useful tips and ideas; mine looks exactly the same, but it reads in the sticker 7000 pounds, I supposed to have bought the M7K which they say it has "upgrades" but it looks exactly the same, I wonder if this company which has their products so over-fucking-priced is not taking me for a ride? - I only have the columns straight with handle and wheels installed, everything out of the pallet, have not decided position just yet, my garage space is 20x20 but it still needs to be cleared of boxes and clutter so I can work around. Got 2 cars to work on, one mini van 2015 Chrysler Town and Country and one 2000 Toyota Tacoma Truck, the mini van barely fits in the garage as it is 16 feet long! the problem is all the garage perimeter near walls have shelves and all around it I am already using 2 feet from the wall, in the center where the left column looking at the street from inside will go I have a clear space to mount that column, I checked the slab for rebars there and cant detect any, house is 1974 built, no idea about the PSI or how deep the slab is where the columns go but the slab does not have any cracks on it. I dont know how wide I should go onbliusly want to make it so when the van is lifted its side does not touch the Chamberlain Garage Opener unit right in the center of the garage, from the floor to ceiling I have 8 feet 7 inches, I think I may mount the columns centered 9 feet from the edge of the garage door closed, I have to have some space as the garage door into the house is on the left of the room looking the street from inside. It would be interesting to have the details for the concrete pad in case I need to do it, If I would have to do it I will do it myself, I got a mud mixer and would rent the concrete saw at home depot to make the cuts, I am praying I don't have to as I need to work on the van as soon as I could as me and my daughter we have no cars since the van been engine hydro locked since last summer, I only mobile by using my company truck but it is very limited; if I have to wait another month for concrete curing that would be a bummer but if it is needed rather wait whatever time than be crushed by the car! The van is right under 6 feet wide at its wide points from doors to door on center, so yes it is a big fucker for the space I have which it is not the worst I have seen either but will be a little tight. I got the ergo chair open box at $469.00 out the door, not sure how good will it be until getting it, then make a decision if keeping it, it supposed to be sell new on sale but Bend Pack did not wanted to assume any wrong doing so waiting for it to ship; got it paid last week and they still have not showed confirmation of shipment. Also got a 14 feet hose from them that paid $177.00 did not want to take chances with an Apache hose or what not but all these accessories and the lift itself, even at the home depot "special price" $3629.00 out the door, all is CRAZY expensive and they claim prices will keep climbing, so still got some decisions to make here, how is your lift holding up after all this time?

Fantastic, what is your ceiling height ?

Looks nice, have you had any issues with the anchors? You took them off the bolt and hammered them in. That defeats their purpose. You are only getting the length of the anchor itself and not using any rest of the concrete. if the anchors are only 3 inches long, that's all your getting out of the concrete since they are not deep in it. They are made so you hammer the bolt in with the anchor, that pushes it as far into the concrete it can go. Then when you tighten it, you have concrete above it. As it is with them being hammered flush, there is nothing above it for it to push against and grab except for an inch or two near the surface. Just keep and eye on those.

Updates ?

Thanks cool to see the progress!

How deep did you drill your holes

I install AMD parts and other companies parts and have never had to do this much work. Never had to slot door Hinges. I have rebuilt over 700 cars. Did you replace the rockers on this car. It looks good either way. Good job and God bless you

Good job safety First

What brand weld threw primer do you use, and is a zinc primer better ?

What distance apart did you put your maxjax columns?

I am having the same problems with my '68. There is no adjustability in the assembly so slotting the hinges is the only option. Looks like a Detroit Speed crossmember under the package tray. Same as what I have done if so.

Hi Dillan, thank you for the video. I have a question, is there supposed to be a small seep hole in case of moisture of any type collects in the drop offs....so it doesn't collect and cause any rusting over time. Thank you

I will be needing quarter panels for my 69. Who do you recommend? I'm not big and fabrication body works so I would like to find something that will fit good. Any suggestions?

Any aftermarket parts are going to need gapping be prepared for a lot of work for fitment.

So many people like black muscle cars. Guess I do too. Would just never own one. Lots of work having it look decent all the time. Anyway......

You talk about adding a spongy material under dash panel (3:21 in video). Is that something you ordered? More info on this would be great.

Please provide a link or part number for the 220 contactor. Thanks!

Nice work, good content on a not too often seen subject.

Great video. What's your wheel and tire size? Are you using spacers?

Good info. A few years ago I actually emailed one of the major importers of Reproduction panels and asked if the steel was phosphated (like GM panels were originally) and if the primer was actually an electro deposition primer ( which GM used). (E-coating, or electro-deposition coating, is a process by which a metallic part is immersed into a paint/water bath with electrically charged particles, where the electricity is then utilized in the deposition of the paint onto the part. E-coating works with magnesium, aluminum, zinc, brass, steel, or any material that conducts electricity.) A few days later I received a reply stating that the steel was not phosphated and the coating applied to the panels was a transport primer/coating and not EDP. Since that time manufacturers procedures and materials may have changed. By the looks of the rear panel in this video, the information I received seems correct, which is confirmed by the slight surface rust you encountered under the coating on the panel. Did you nuetralize or phosphate convert the rust before priming? I know SPI doesn't like or promote or recommend metal conditioner, although their epoxy is a very good product. I have some new aftermarket panels to install shortly, and I will remove the transport primer (EDP) but I will prime the bare steel with a mild etch primer followed by a 2K urethane hi build primer.

Still no info on the Safety Lock Covers? The lift looks incomplete without those covers IMO. It also protects the locks from damage, dirt etc.

Nice work, thanks for the upload! Were there any issues with your fender to door gaps? Do you have original fenders? I have repop front fenders and there is a huge gap between the rear of the front fenders and the doors on the front.

Great video. Very helpful. How tall is your garage? Trying to get some perspective on my garage setup

Didn't know that you could just cut out the spot for just the jacks..

You're doing a great job man! I'm currently doing a 68 camero convertible and I feel your aftermarket part pain!

How did you avoid getting overspray all over your epoxy floor?

How much was the concrete job?

Anybody know how good the Goodmark full quarter panels are ??? Also how’s the AMD full floor pan ?

Hey buddy. Just a quick question. At full lift what is the height of the cylinder sticking out of the loft posts? Trying to make sure itll fit my garage before i order

I’m 6’4” and I’m glad to finally see a review of a tall person sitting underneath one at full height, I was concerned I’d be bending my neck the entire time!

Dillan thanks for your wonderful support. Where does one get longer hoses made up to allow for permanent mounting of the pump?

I actually had these panels laying around. My bodyman mut of ask me to order them and I wanted to know what they were for. Great video.

It's looking great! I love the spi products

What’s the link to the other CZcamsr

I bought it two years ago and the anchors they sent me were NOT weg it. It was unbranded chinese shit. Even the bolts didn't have markings. I paid good money to get real weg its and 10.8 bolts at the hardware store. The weg its were clearly more secure (they did not slip upwards when tightening). Get rid of the garage door openers and install jackshaft opener if you have low ceiling.

Well now I know to get a 6-inch offset then I won't have to dick around with anything thank you for the info

Satin black with the wheel wells raptor lined. Dynamat the interior floor.

I think I’m going to leave mine with 3 coats of satin black epoxy, that way I can touch it up down the road if needed, not sure how raptor liner works or If you can remove it if needed, also if a rock chips it and allows water in will it hide rust forming ? All question I would have.

Let me know if you have room for another 69’ Camaro lol

Man awesome work Dillan!

Excellent job, I like it satin black

on my 69 camaro i did the raptor heat and sound coating on the bottom of the car, i also did the entire inside including the roof and inside the doors. this made the car very quite to drive. well worth the money.

Beep beep I'm a Jeep

Fine job! 👍

pog