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1600, 2.0, or 2.3?

Only can go by what i know from years of backyard wrenching. It’s never let me down in over 25 years.

It’s sounds like you have a TFI module that is overheating. That is the rectangular module on the side of the distributor.

@@MultiChipsta OK cool thanks 🙏🏽 my tabs broke for my timing. That’s the reason I was a little bit worried I did the dipstick method and it look close to me.

How did you set timing without the cover? You may have been able to set "Initial timing", but you need to pull the spout and set timing to 10* BTDC. Otherwise your timing is way off. Contact me at bigrmotorsports.com I offer a nice timing pointer and I also have stock used portions that have the timing mark for vheap if you contact me via the website email@@820performancecomptonbro4

Mine does. I just don’t drive it much because it’s more of a show car. I would not build one as a daily, nor would I ever do it again. So many Dohc platforms out there now with tons of vender support. My next engjne will be a Duratec with a turbo. We took a bone stock Duratec and made 400 on the engine Dyno at 15 psi. The motor only cost me $350 at pick a part. Have to love that.

Look up rothfam.com/svo/reference

Yes. And many others

@@MultiChipsta Any for sale ?

5th to hold the crank when setting timing and back in neutral when I crank over twice to check it's still good, btw

If you watch my second and last video it clearly states not to add tensioner. Let it self tighten. Put car in nuetral so that crank can spin freely. Line up all the marks and let the tesnsioner loose. Once it’s loose you crank the crank pulley two full rotations until the crank is at TDC and then check it.

Yes it is

Awesome really a nice car done well

That’s not a good deal. The 84 has a slow computer, small injectors, and small air meter. Plus it doesn’t run so who knows what you are getting. The trans also isn’t world class so it won’t be able to handle any real horsepower. I’d wait for a better donor car. I won’t buy a donor that isn’t running unless it’s cheap $500 or can show me proof it runs

@@MultiChipsta I'll look at I this weekend but knowing what you just told me, I'm passing on it. Found an 88 TC for $3500 but it's been parked in same spot for years. Just a big old red flag. Runs and sounds good but I didnt drive it long enough to notice any internal issues.

Thank you. This was years ago though, and the car still runs good. However since that time so many other great platforms have come out that have vendor support, that I would not suggest this endeavor. I would either go with a Duratec or a eco-boost.

Yes but you can now buy them new for only $15 more than what I charge for them. Send me a message at bigrmotorsports.com

I use the blue ones and never had a problem. I have a 88 ranger with a 200hp 2.3 na no turbo

Yes there is a definite performance difference. Think about it. Car makes 325hp wheel at 15psi. However just know this was 5pver years ago and there wasn’t a Duratec or Ecoboost. If I had to do it all over again NOW It would be one of those platforms. Lots of vender bolt ons and lots of vender support. If you do this swap you are totally on your own and have to fab everything up. Never again

@@MultiChipsta well damn... guess you still own it? How's it running these days

Not sure what you mean by double tree

No you don’t use the timing mark in the aux gear. You only take of distributor cap and make sure rotor is on #1 with TFI in the 5 O clock position. If belt is still off you can set the TFi at 5 O clock and grab the aux pulley and turn it until rotor is at the position I stayed. Which is just to the right of that square cap screw.

@@MultiChipsta I put the car in time like you did there was a little dot on the cam sprocket no other markings anywhere and did everything you said hopefully it starts

Yes it works on the 2.0