Video

ty ty

huh?

absolutely. 100% depends on if you want hard or soft light, but you are correct - technique is the same. and ty!! cheers.

great question!! and worth pointing out.. its usually one of two things... 1) shitty makeup either by your subject or the HMUA and a professional makeup artist should know better... they should not be using a mineral based makeup because minerals like zinc - will reflect light. and or 2) oily skin with or without crappy makeup. :)

i would always rec using the same transmitter as the light manufacturer. in this case im using the westcott system and trigger.

Thank you!

cool.

nothing wrong with that!

My pleasure!

i mean... surely the dress comment is a rhetorical one, right? as for the light - yes, almost all flashes come with a cold shoe mount with a screw adapter underneath it for light stands.

Never seen Fashion shoots where models wear all sorts of attire nobody would wear in that particular type of location? This is done quite often. Everything is not meant to make real world sense. Where's the fun in that?

i cant honestly speak to that... i dont believe it has a fan, but i work in 100+ degree temps on weddings and senior shoots and i have not personally run into over-heating issues. but shit... sounds like you are pushing the limits of a lot of units!! :)

OK, thank you for the feedback Sal. We currently currently use Profoto as well, but want a couple more location rigs and are looking at the Westcott system as a more affordable system to use.

@@whiterock1865 i have both... and yes westcott is much more affordable.

Glad I could help! and yes - having worked with A LOT of different units... and then getting into post production and seeing a noticable color shft... it can be a giant PIA to get everything to look the same. Some people dont care as much... but i am a fan of this new FJ80-V2. Much better built than the V1.

Glad you liked it!! truly allows you to work FAST!

ty ty! yes - you would have a trigger for the flash on camera - sits in the hot shoe. if you notice in the video - i have one sitting on camera - its usually the same manufacturer as the lighting company.

@@SalCincotta1 Thank you!

BINGO!!! Im sorry this happened to you, but im happy to see this post. a lot of times when i talk about this - people scoff at what im saying and just want to keep touting a certain brand because its cheaper... great... so you saved some money on a cheap brand... but now you are spending tens of hours jerking around in lightroom to get color to match up. and in a scenario that you are talking about - those images MUST LOOK THE SAME! Hope this little tidbit helps you!! Sal

@@SalCincotta1 most definitely useful information. I had no idea about this so I was rather confused. This definitely gives me some things to consider going forward 🙏🏽.

Glad it helped!

Awesome, thank you!

Yes! Thank you!

Thanks!

Thank you!

Excellent

got it. thanks. super insightful and reflective comment. lots to think about here.

you are very welcome! and the answer is YES. AP moves MUCH MUCH FASTER and in my opinion is more accurate than manual mode in outdoor conditions. studio? 100% manual mode.

Thank you!!!

BINGO!!

Kp😊i😊😊❤😊😅😮

I have found that the ones who object to OCF are either scared to death of it or too lazy to learn. So I ask them how they would like to double their income in less than 6 months and then they don’t know what to say. Sal, thanks for the video. Longtime shooter but I always pick up a few tips from you.

maybe Manual, maybe TTL,,, You should try both and see what works better for You :) :) :)

start at 5 and adjust.

You're the best! :)

lol

Yeah. Ok.

well we cant have the same EXACT setting since i am using different glass etc - but you will use what im teaching to conceptually work your images to be similar.

that is correct. or you can move the light closer.

@@SalCincotta1 thanks

Make sure to check firmware. It works no issues for me.

Make sure to check firmware. It works no issues for me.

Make sure to check firmware. It works no issues for me.

@@SalCincotta1 it’s work without any problem on my r5 but no work on r6 All my firmware up to date Same setting on r5 and r6 but cant understant why no work on r6

@@RumunUK gotta be some weird setting.

no comparison really. i will always defer to a prime lens. less moving pieces and the optics are so much better!! and you get more compression with the 85. but dont get me wrong - the 24-70 is amazing!! i defer to the 28-70... since its an F2. :) i like my fast glass.

interesting... ive not heard of any issues... but im not having any issues with mine. still have them - still using them.

@SalCincotta1 good to hear, people on the Facebook page have had some that had problems

great question - to me this comes down to workflow. so my presets are all based on a balanced image. so, the first thing i do is get color right then apply presets. (so my saved preset would include a balanced base) if that makes any sense. but you are correct.. if you dont find a workflow like that then the minute you apply one it would wipe out... HOWEVER... keep in mind, you really want your monitor balanced or no matter what you are looking at is off any way. thanks for watching!!

That makes since! So the best thing for me to do is calibrate my monitor, then color check and correct all the colors, black and white points. Then do some note things and make a preset from that!

100% non-reflective makeup is CRUCIAL! so much so - every makeup artist we work with we instruct to use MATTE based makeup and nothing with minerials in it - because minerals are hyper reflective. so you are spot on!!

@@SalCincotta1 Thank you so much for replying, and for reinforcing my understanding here. Love your videos!

hmm interesting question... im not really sure., but ic ant imagine it being accurate at all. because there is a reason you are using black, white and 18% grey. that is not possible using random colors.

@@SalCincotta1 I'm not talking random colors - the dress is definitely white and it's on location just like the card. But while the card may be held in a random position getting the correct general light, the dress is where it should be and only you know which bit of it you want to be the 100 (or 90)% white. You also got to black as 90% so the darkest bit in hair still seems to be it. While I understand why you're pushing for the Spyder card, I'm still pretty certain often various things on location can be used. Just wondering how far off they would be.

@@artursandwich1974 understood. I still can’t tell you how far off because a white dress is not pure white no matter how much you think it is. Sheen, wrinkles etc all change how white balance is reflected. What if the dress is slightly off white? And remember this is white balance you’re talking about but none of that addresses actual colors like reds and blues and greens. Which is part of what this does. And for that I would say based on my experience very far off. :)

@@SalCincotta1 Oh, yes. Color balancing would be extremely difficult. 😉. I'm not saying I don't see the use or benefits of the card. My questions rather rise from a low budget and always looking for alternatives for what I can't afford (and yes, I know it's an investment into a betterment). And I've found a very interesting alternative (naturally not perfectly accurate - white is a few points off, but colors are spot on, checked with calibration tools) - it's a set of 48 aquarelle paints, roughly the size of the card, from a renowned producer of those. But I guess the card is on my shopping shortlist, anyway. Thank you for your kind replies.

@@artursandwich1974 gotcha gotcha. I’ve found color temp can be very subjective. The most important thing to do is calibrate your monitor. Becuse without that all this is pointless. I find Mac monitors to be extremely cool in temp. And I used a monitor calibration tool and it blew my mind the difference. That’s when I because a huge believer in this.