Video

Thank you.. this tire was kicking my butt. After watching your video, I had the tire back on in less than 30 seconds.

Good god man, you're playing with fire leaving the pads and rotor in place.

I had my MT7s bled with old pads in. I wore the pads in the rear down to the base metal so bought new ones. Couldn't get the f'ing things in because the pistons wouldn't go back far enough to get them in place without one of the other pistons popping out again. I ended up opening the bled port a bit then pushing the pistons in to dump out the excess fluid. Long story short: if your pads are close to shot when you need to bleed replace the pads at the same time. 😅

Man, this helped me IMMENSELY today working on my 2017 5010. Thank you!

I what way is this easier then the usual Magura method with a drilled syringe?

I don't know why, but bleeding my rear MT5 after I cut them wasn't a nightmare as people suggest it would be, it was fairly smooth without any seperate tutorial, just the Magura bleed kit and instructions 😅

This mans single handely saved me hundreds at a bike shop

Nice job! Also i love your marinemaster!

This is the opposite of the magura tech videos really Never had a bad bleed following the manufacturer method

Dave, SUPREME thanks for your efforts doing this, as well as the install on the trek rail5 from 3 years ago. Your work is priceless. My rear shimXT had a shattered piston, so I went wandering for a full brake replacement. Found the MT7 on sale and fell for it, like shopping while hungry. I'm so glad you did this video; the timing is perfect. Also perfect is the entire youtube universe of pain and suffering I'm finding about maguras just as I'm about to install mine. I suppose I'll wait until the levers break (no pun intended), then perhaps I'll try a Shigura setup.

Why not close the system at the brake handle first then the caliper? I did mine this way and rotated the bike but did not feel the need to remove the caliper as it couldnt drip from a closed system.

Would be great if owner could buy product, set up account, and then only pay to track device AFTER that is needed. Recurring fees in perpetuity make me want to 🤮. I purchase things so that I own THEM, not so they can own me. P.S. We give insurance companies MORE money than they give us back. That's how insurance works. That's how they are able to stay in business. Insurance is nothing more than a way to buy something once, and then proceed to slowly pay for it twice, in hopes that they MIGHT give you a portion of your 2nd purchase price back. Insurance is nothing more than gambling. If you want to gamble, go to Las Vegas and get free drinks out of it.

All this cold weather is obviously because of global warming and racism .

How do you do it uncleaned dirt inside yet this red silicone scooters I wouldn't give you to fix hah😂

Brilliant as ever Dave. I always look forward to your videos. Cheers. Colin.

Can you do one on tec4s? Your videos are amazing 👌🏻

1. All maguras I owned (2x julie, 1x mt4, 8xmt5) were leaking when attaching the syringe to the bleed port. I always lift the caliper above the lever when doing that. It takes 10 secs to rotate the bike when having a stand. And I don't add air to the system. 2. For every bleeding on any bike is recommended to remove the wheel and the pads - there are 2 nice bleed blocks from magura. 3. The best thing to do is attach a funnel with a threaded inlet to the lever. Ez emtb offers kits that are the best bleed solutions on the market. 4. The method I use (100% successful) is to remove the lever from the bar and rotate it while pushing the oil from the caliper. 5. The lever is the pain in magura case. Shiguras are very easy to bleed with 100% success rate. 6. Plastic-phantastic lever body doesn't belong to mtb product range in this type of applications. Their 1st attempt was julie that was a piece of junk. I had 2 issues with them and it was the only one situation when this happened in my entire brake history. 7. I buy mt5 brakes , easy to find in EU for 65 £ Incl freight and customs, and shimano levers (20-50£ per piece, depends on the model), sell brand new levers for 30-40 £ and run shiguras for 75£ with saint levers and they are easy to bleed, maintain and pain-free to use.

Brilliant practical video Real world experience Thank you

In your opinion, what is the easiest brake brand to service?

Warranty .... XD What a nice joke =) Iam running on my Daily Shigura. Amazing biter! And the other drine got stock MT2 with Brakelight feature and because of the leverage and old grippy Blue Pads its fine and great enough for my Wife.

A good tip. When you've finished bleeding, use the syringe off of the caliper end to suck out the fluid from the syringe on the lever to reduce spillage. Great tutorial as always.

Shiguras ftw 🎉

Infind them straight forward dave .great video.the carbotecture gets a lot of stick but magura have been making clutch and brake master cylinder parts for audi mercedes bmw for years without issue

This is an excellent tutorial on brake bleeding - very nice work. The methods used apply to every open system hydraulic brake, with the only changes being the connections to the lever and caliper. Tipping the bike can be avoided by just pulling the lever and holding it in to the bar with a rubber band or cable tie before disconnecting the syringe at the caliper - this seals the system at the lever end, so the fluid can't flow out. For filling the lever, I've had inconsistent results with the bucket bleed method you've shown. Connecting a syringe to the lever, as you've done at the caliper, and actively pushing brake fluid in and then sucking it out is significantly more effective. This works because the volume of the brake lever reservoir isn't fixed, there's a diaphragm that can move in and out as the brake fluid level changes, and there seems to be some dead volume in the lever that air bubbles don't always clear out of under gravity. As for Maguras needing more maintenance, this is news to me. I have a Louise I ran for well over a decade (It's still fine - just not on a bike at the moment), including 5 years of a daily commute that dropped 100 m in the first 500 m, which cooked it ever morning and all I ever did was feed it brake pads, tightened the lever adjusters (They drift enough that after a year or two the bite point has moved in enough to be noticeable) and I think I topped up the lever once. The joy of mineral oil brakes is that the oil doesn't degrade, attract water or strip paint, so the idea of regularly bleeding for any reason other than changing the brake line length or replacing a liquid containing part is just unnecessary work. Magura probably have some guff about regular bleeding now just to keep up with the others, but historically (20-30 years ago anyway) their attitude was just leave them alone unless you can feel air in them. Same story with Shimano brakes.

A scouser could pull that tracker out with his teeth

I've done the vacuum thing on the lever syringe before, what's the difference with doing it at the caliper?

Can I use any grease to press the headset into the frame or is there something different about the Acros grease in the sachets?

For an amateur bike mech would it be best to remove the wheel ?

Hi dave love watching all your videos glad to see you out and about top top bloke recommend you to everyone and thanks for looking after my bikes

Thanks for a great vid!!! Makes sense and the process works!!!

That wasn’t an instal it was a commercial.

The same Fox Float, and the same leak. Thanks for the video!

I had a stuck pedal and allen keys just would not shift it. Used an impact driver and it came off super easy. Was very surprised at how quick it was.

I always thought my e-bike was tuned a bit slow compared to other 250 w bikes. After replacing the motor (26000km) the newer was 2-3 km/h faster, and according to gps and other e-bikes I now really do 25 km/h. Even on dutch bikepaths that is more then fast enough, certainly inside citylimits. Actually, it can be scary sometimes. Outside city limits, yeah sure I could see 30-35 km/h would be nice, but when I think about the wear and tear…. Let’s not go there.

Really helpful video to see how cables are actually routed through headset. I Have one question though, Is it always necessary to cut the brake hose to remove top bearing? it looks like it would easily pass through the top cover and could then be un-clipped from the washer/spacer, or is it just the case that its good practice to use a new barb and olive each time you disconnect the brake?

My main pivot bearing are stuck, I've used a brass drift and a bearing extractor that expands inside the inner race. I've sprayed it with loads of penetrating oil and pipe freeze and also a heat gun (very cautiously). None of this has worked, the only think is I can now move the sleeve around and get a better edge so I get more purchase for the drift. Any advice what I can do?

This is newest video of yours I could find this is off topic but I have a 2022 trek rail 5 with Bosch cx gen 4 motor. I have a chance to get a new spare motor very cheap but it’s not programmed. I tried calling some bike shops but they don’t do programming. I’m in the USA I know it will be different but about how much should it cost to program the moto to my bike. Thanks.

Just seen this video Great work, Do you know where I can purchase a new Pin for the internal.

Hi, i have a question, i lately rebuilt levers and calipers with new seals and pistons, fitted braided hoses on them and did everything as you explained but it seems like there is some air trapped inside still, since pistons of the caliper are new and pushed in i cannot manage to get them moving outwards, lever goes fully to handlebars and i dont know what to do anymore, tried it 3 times and still no progress towards pistons moving out.

Hi Dave, just viewed this and have a question. On both this, the EP801 and other motors, are there any seals on the housing where the main driveshaft enters/exits the motor? If there are and you can't get replacements, then would it be worth replacing the bearings as you'll not be able to keep the crap out due to the seals being shot?

1 year on, just tried to take the tyre off again - and it was stuck this time too! My liquid solution didn't help this time, nor did standing on the rim or using bits of wood. I hammered a small screw drive edge into the rim, which broke the seal and the tyre came off fairly easily. I've just ordered some red rubber grease - so I hope it won't happen again.

What a legend. The vice technique did the trick.

Do you really need a headset press for this?

Ty ty ty!!!

Inspired by your video, I took my motor to bits and, unfortuneately I broke the ferrite(?) ring on the main shaft (the one with the torque sensor). Do you know of anyone who has spares for these motors? Thanks for this great video.

A bit if a late comment.....do you think this procedure would work on TRP brakes ?

very good video. What is the name of the tools you use to remove and install the bearings?

I have found a better way to bleed these brakes,bleed as normal,then put the brake caliper with the brake pads in over the disc rotor or if not find a spare disc rotor and hold it in place,put the brake bleed tool in the the caliper,open bleed port on caliper , squeeze the syringe and lightly pull the brake lever until you feel some resitance ,this is the bit that makes these brakes work,stop pulling the brake lever push hard on the syringe and watch the brake pads close on to the disc,make sure the brake pads looks evenly pushed out, DO NOT stop squeezing the syringe and lock off the bleed port,repeat if necessary or when they lose there bite,

Big help

Best way to do it is wrap old tubes around spanner and crank very tightly tens of time then apply more force with mallet, don't put fingers anywhere near the gap between spanner and crank cuz it will be sudden