Video

Sorry, no, I did not.

What firmware does the controller display when you first turn it on?

PS I just tried changing the arc pro powerbase channel to which the SCP3 was connected and I experienced the same problem as before in not being able to connect it. It remains connected to the original channel so I will just stick with that and revisit if I purchase any additional SCP3 controllers!

if the controller scrolls the "register" message as opposed to firmware version, then you might need to install the latest oXigen/Analog firmware using the Emergency DFU mode. I made a video about that on my other channel. If it scrolls the firmware version, then maybe you got it second hand, and it needs to be un-registered and connected to your account, which only slot.it can do. email is a good way to communicat with me. ggaub at ggaub dot com

Did you program other cars to that controller? Even if cars are on the same lane, digital cars only respond to the control signals for it, and not those for other cars. But, there's nothing stopping you from programming multiple cars to the same ID/controller. If you do that, then they should go at the same time. If you put an analog car on the track, it will just making a high pitched whining noise. It doesn't damage it, but it won't go at all unless you switch the base to analog mode. In analog mode, it's one car per lane, no programming.

@@ggaub thanks for the feedback. it was actually working both digital and analogue cars. i realised it was in analogue mode and did a factory reset. its now working lane switching lanes etc and i hope use more features. Thanks again

Double-check your settings and compare them to the video. If they are not counting laps, then you have either set pace cars to not count laps, or you've set the min lap time to a number higher than the pace cars run the lap.

@@ScalextricDigital thanks for the quick response. The thing is that when I am practising the pace car is counting fine but when I shift to race mode they don't count laps

@@josevilar1012 Interesting. I have no idea why it would not count laps in that situation. Have you tried different race modes? Maybe one of them ignores pace cars for some reason? (note that this is not an official Scalextric channel, I'm just a lover of SSD who made these videos to help people)

@@ScalextricDigital Thanks Greg, I will give it another try over this weekend. The thing is that I'm back to my old c7042 powerbase. After having used the ARC AIR for quite some time I am not very happy with it. I don't like using a tablet/smart phone for managing my home races. Bluetooth conexion is not very reliable and I don't like the wireless throttles among other things. I think c7042 gives a friendly user experience.

@@josevilar1012 Understood. LMK if you figure out what's up, as I don't recall such an issue. Then again, I don't think I used it much without a computer running the show.

and you're trying the car in both lanes? I can't imagine why it wouldn't work. The ARC Pro doesn't know it's a different controller. If you turn off the SCP3, and re-pair an ARC controller, does it work as expected?

Glad it was helpful!

Scalextric Digital does not have adjustable brakes, so the answer is, technically, no. That said, slot.it also offer a car chip that can have Scalextric Digital firmware that can have the brakes adjusted via their app. While there would be no way to adjust it "on the fly" it would still enable you to set up a car to have its own optimum brake setting stored in the chip. While the SCP3 has a brake adjustment knob, it is there for systems that support it, such as analog cars, or the oXigen digital system. All of the other settings on the controller would allow you to adjust the power curve to make cars of all kinds easier to drive. Take a look at my Slot.it SCP Controller Basics video to see what kinds of adjustments you'd have access to (everything but brakes).

It is! I got them through the slot.it shop on shapeways.

@@ggaub Any clue as to what I'm to search to find it on their site. Thank you

Sure. You won't get what you originally paid, but there's always someone out there willing to buy that stuff. The APB is still a great power base that a lot of people still choose instead of the ARC.

@@ggaub where do you suggest a good website to post the gear?

@@glennmathias1805 what country?

@@ggaub USA

If you are using your 7042 with the LCD display tower it came with, and not with a computer, then the ARC Pro is definitely better. I'm not sure why your race is ending so soon, but it might be worth resetting the base to default settings, which I believe is in the system options.

@@ggaub I resolve the isssue😁 the select button was crip an durti😜, I use contact spray... Et voila👍, he works nicely now

@@steuibi68 et voila!

I don't have a manual in front of me. What parts are you referring to? Was it not covered in this video?

Be sure to watch all 4 videos, as some things that affect pit lane pace cars are explained in other videos, such as Part 4.

@@ggaub hi Greg thanks for reply 4.5 and 4.6 not mentioned in these videos or anywhere i can see. its prpit and popit for pace cars the manual is free online i have read over and over just makes no sense

@@robertovers1863 czcams.com/video/mKOugm_CY8g/video.html

I'm not sure it will ever "catch up" in the way most hard core hobbyists hope. It was never designed to do what the APB does when connected to a computer. If anything, a new base in a few years might do that... or do less. :\ But, this video shows at least one thing the APB can't do. :)

After you go to the PLATF screen, press down, then right/left to switch between analog and digital modes.

Watch the video about analog mode, and follow the same steps to switch back to digital.

When it comes down to it, they are a toy company. The C7042 was a rare collaboration between slot head hobbyists and those managing the C7042 project.

You're very welcome!

NEVER put more than ONE power base in a track. To bring power to the far sections of your layout, we run what are called "jumpers" or "power taps" from a track near the power base to a piece of track that is far away. Scalextric do make/sell wires specifically for this purpose that have spade connectors that hook up under a half or full straight piece. Those pieces have the tabs for the spade connectors to slip onto. You can make your own, as well. If you know how to solder, you can do them without spade connectors by just soldering the ends of the wires to the rail tabs under the track. The important thing is that you use 4 wires, one for each rail of a two lane track, and make 100% sure you have not swapped them around at one end. I usually draw an arrow on the bottom of the track with silver marker to denote the direction of car travel, and then use colored wires so that I always know which wire goes to which rail. You will find, especially over time, that you'll need more power taps than just one to the half-way point. My track, which is only about 55 feet, has 9, and each piece of track is also connected to the next one with little jumper wires underneath. I did this because my clubs race competitively on my track, and any kind of power drop is an extreme annoyance. I haven't had power problems since I did that work several years ago.

@@ScalextricDigital many thanks for your reply. I do have wiretaps there from an old Scalextric but there seems to be some confusion even when I got in contact with Hornby themselves as to why the 6 car powerbase had two power ports. Myself I would have linked those Lane 1 and 3 to 2 and 4 and divided the second powerbase between them on a 4 Lane track but the gentleman that I spoke to seem to have no knowledge on this. Largest track that I've ever had up and running was approximately 80 foot but we're going for the 200 as it's for a charity event to raise money for the Norfolk Broards racing team(tasker whiskey challenge) and before you say yes I have spelt it correctly :-) Thank you for your advice if I can I will get some footage and put it on CZcams so people can see how the track went. Jaydee

@@suzy650 Oh yes... the two power ports on the C7042, as well as the new ARC Pro power bases are for a second power supply. This increases the total amperage that the base can supply, so that running 4 to 6 cars does not have so much power loss when one car takes off or stalls and starts taking more amps than normal, taking away amps from the other cars and slowing them down. With two power supplies, you double the amps from 4 to 8 amps. The voltage is the same, but the amount of power available is doubled. This doesn't change the problem of a really long track needing power taps, though. If you're running with more than 3 cars, definitely get the second power supply to plug into the base. Set up some power taps, I'd say at LEAST 4 for such a long track, and also make sure the rails are nice and snug by pressing down the metal tabs at the connectors from the bottom (flip over onto hard surface and press the tabs down with a hard tool of some kind). With snug fitting connections and a few power taps, plus a second power supply, you'll have great 6 car racing for your event!

Any other SCALEXTRIC digital set, yes. (and to be clear, "Scalextric" in Spain is not the same, so if you're in Spain, this can only be used with SUPERSLOT sets)

Greg Gaub cheers 👌

I believe in these cases the base has a defect such as a malfunctioning relay. Your best bet is to contact Scalextric customer service to see if they can help. But, if you use it exclusively in analog mode, you could just open it up and swap the polarity of the wires that go to the rails for the slot that's going backward.

Greg Gaub Thank you Greg I use both digital and analogue (mostly digital) it only happens in analogue mode although if I use a car with a chip in analogue mode it goes in the correct direction which is strange?

@@leesslotcars That's because digital is AC and the car chips have bridge rectifiers in them. They will always go forward.

Sorry, I got a job, lost my interest in all the editing needed for these videos, and now there's an entirely new base. Feel free to post questions, though. You can also find a LOT of help on slotforum.com

If the tower is showing the lights go out when you cross the sensors, then it's working fine. Do the RMS register laps and things? If so, then the Pit Pro should also be working unless the program settings are wrong, because it's the same driver for both the APB cable and the Pit-Pro cable. What are your pit settings for each program?

Thanks , I did move my pit lane to the very next of the PB ( start / finish )... Works the same....neither of the SSDC or RCS64 can see / read my pit pro...It is probably a com port problem ....( need to see 2 com port to get it right , and I can only see one at a time )... otherwise both programs work fine , digital / analogue mode...just stuck with my not seeing pit pro.... If somebody-else have a solution , feel free....

Definitely a com port issue, then. It can't hurt to try and load in the drivers again.

Robonthebay

What kind of race are you running? What is your AtEnd option set to?

thanks for the quick reply. Its in F1 mode. at end i have tried both options.. when the winning car crosses the line there is a different kind of beep, it then takes for another car to cross the line for the chequered flag

How many cars are racing? How many laps? Is the second car on the same lap, or behind more than a lap?

ive tried all options 2 4 cars. various laps various positions

could be a bug, then. do you have the cable to update to the latest firmware?

yes

Actually, they are operational. The trick is getting a car to trigger them. An analog car has no chip and no way to tell the lane changer to flip. A digital car that works on DC voltage (oXigen, or Scorpius) would be able to trigger the lane changer, though. As this video shows, making the lane changer work for analog cars would be silly... they would then be controlled by the other lane's controller. These are not like analog X tracks where the cars swap lanes. If you want that, you'd need to use standard analog crossovers such as the racing curve crossovers shown in this video.

Wow! You moved from SportWorld to the APB? That's a bit of a jump. First off, you don't need two power supplies. You can put a dummy plug into the other port and both lanes will draw power from the one supply. Second, you don't need the expensive Scalextric brand supplies. You can get cheap laptop power supplies (for Toshiba laptops) that have the right plug, and right output voltage to work just fine. Also, the APB is packaged as an upgrade for an existing SSD set, not as a "ready to race" power base. The 4 car digital sets that it is marketed as an upgrade for already provide the power supplies, controllers, track, and all, to use the APB. I didn't realize that the SportWorld controllers would not work with the SSD system, but I'm not surprised that that information. But, it's clear that the APB does not include anything other than the base and tower, and that other things would be needed. Don't ditch your APB. Put a dummy plug into the other port, or get a couple cheap laptop power supplies meant for Toshiba laptops. You'll be good to go for your analog racing fun, and can even get the PC cable for top of the line race management with racing simulations like tire wear and weather.

Thank you for the answer and solutions. They should be shouted out loud :-) I'm just a normal guy who buy a box with a nice picture on the front and nice features on the back (Advanced Digital 6 Car Powerbase (C7042)). I expect it to work. OK, power supplies are not included but needing two or a dummy plug for analog racing was a surprise. The situation is that my brother in law and me are a little old school (keeping the lanes separate) but having pit stops, yellow flags and the strategy behind is appealing having taste from C8310 - the few times it worked. When I get it up and running i'll post you my impressions :-) Regards Thor.

+XbowMax take out one power lead, then make sure both lanes are set to go to same direction, then put in the other power lead

+Dean Lake You're quite welcome. :)

Definitely NOT normal. See if you can get it swapped out where you bought it. If not, contact Hornby/Scalextric for warranty service.

There is a fan, but it sounds as if yours is hitting something inside the base. You could return it to the place of purchase for a replacement, or contact Scalextric/Hornby directly for warranty service. If you're good with electronics, you might be able to open it up and fix it yourself, but I would only suggest that if you feel confident, and don't care about voiding your warranty.

I'm sorry if that was not clear in the video. Analog mode is a part of Advanced mode options, so all options are available to analog racing, even pace cars! I'm not sure if you can switch back to basic mode without reverting to digital control, though. I'll have to check on that and get back to you.

OK, I verified that once you switch to Analog mode, you can power down and power up the base and it will stay in analog mode. You can leave it in Pro mode, or switch back to Basic mode during startup, and it will remain analog. Please note that I did this test with firmware v1.09, which can be downloaded and installed for free from ssdc.jackaments.com/firmware The only thing you need to do this is the PC cable, which is specially made for the C7042 by third parties, and can be found on ebay, some retailers, and directly from the makers on various slot car forums. The SSDC site I already mentioned also has a page about cables. The firmware update is extremely useful, and highly recommended. Hornby will also upgrade the firmware if you send in a base that is having problems of any kind.

Yes, and Yes, sort of. Be sure to watch the video about Analog mode, Which is Part 2, I think. That may answer some of your questions.

Yes

pro trick: watch movies at Flixzone. Me and my gf have been using it for watching loads of movies lately.

@Enoch Josiah yup, have been using Flixzone for since december myself :)