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Not surprised at all! Probably somebody threw in first thing they had at hand... could be the same factory has a few different kits, and they just shipped the wrong instructions with yours.

The controller came as a set along with the whole system - screen, controller, hum motor. Was all made to work together in the factory! No adequate markings on it, so can't really say what make and model it is, but it is a 1kw system... I think it topped off at around 20A at 48-52v.

If there is a button, I doubt there is a way to do it in software. I suppose you may be able to work out some hardware bypass... but really not sure how it will work.

What kind of noise?

Hmmmm... I can't say I recall how to do it.

It what?

I am not certain, I don't have the manual here to check it.

With?

If you mean the controller, yes, but it also depends on the use case! If you would be climbing mountains, it would be no good... sadly! For regular use in the flat... it works OK and has not given me any issues.

Hey, so I was able to fit without issues a 6S 16000mAh LiPo in there, not sure of the exact dimensions right now, but that pack fit pretty well. This was a long time ago and HobbyKing no longer carries these, but these here are about the same dimentions and the seller looks reliable, plus price looks pretty decent: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DmlAbbp

Can't really say! You could try Aliexpress, and ask the sellers, just in case they know!

Well as it turns out, it seems there are different versions, I would assume, of the firmware for these, perhaps dependent on the controller it is connected to, so there are A LOT of variations out there to the number of settings options you get!

Yeah, the 1000W does get up to speed, especially on the flat! As for whether you can change it... I see no reason why not, but keep in mind this would be a setting only for the display, the controller will need to be replaced, as well as the battery, if you want to run a lower voltage that is not supported by the controller.

You are welcome. I can't say that I recal... you mean there is no limit even on the 1st speed, or that despite it being enmic, it feels too fast for you?

I guess... you can try it, if you need it.

Oh nice, good to know!

Thank you! Glad it was useful! Right... well I don't have that wired in... so that may be why it makes no difference for me.

I don't know...

Good to know! :)

Hm... I am not sure I have an answer for you sadly! Been quite a while since I've been in the settings, and I can't say that I recall any, and right now I am in the middle of a serious restoration of one of my bikes, so can't really check since this bike is too deep under other stuff!

@@eVroomer alright so I have figured out just about every setting and every solution do to LCD/options/just about everything that can be messed with inside the LCD which is basically like the computer as everyone knows so if anyone has any questions or concerns

@@justingoke8445 That's awesome mate, well done! :)

You may have the P setting for voltage. Mine has 36/48v option. If you have a 48v battery and the aetting is 36v, it will always show full.

@@eamansemmakie3812 Well that makes sense... :)

Sounds like a neat way to do it! Well done! On pretty much all 48v controllers you can probably and safely also go with a 52v battery, so that is what I would suggest. Only thing would be to keep an eye on the voltage of the pack, especially if it is shown on the display, and make sure it doesn't drop below 3v per cell.

Awesome info mate, thanks for sharing! :)

Thanks alot

@@lassenielsen4340 :)

It is possible that these could be locked values, i.e. you are not able to change them!

Yes it is! Thanks! :)

Hi, sadly I am not aware of this function and have not seen this happen on mine! How did you manage to lock it up? Have tried some pin combinations to see if you can guess it?

No idea what that is!

Well... one goes with the other, doesn't it? If you are looking to optimize the use of space and specs of the battery... why not?

Yes, you can either have it, or not, will work either way. If you don't have you can't use pedal assist, only the twist throttle.

Well if you have the brakes wired in to the display, when you press the brake it will indicate it on the screen with that icon that the brake is pressed and the motor is cut off, the throttle icon, I assume, shows the throttle is active and working!

Well the KIT was about $450 if memory serves, battery and bag, etc., were a bit less, so around $800 I would say... as for reliability... I would recommend replacing the connectors between battery and controller and between controller and hub, and also making sure the controller has ample cooling! Also, the spokes on mine came undone a few times and I had to retighten them, which was quite annoying! Other than that is seems to work OK!

I added a bike computer to it.

Well I usually do! Sometimes I am going too fast to slow down safely!

Well if you are buying from QS for instance, I think you can get the hub only, but then you will need to find somebody to do the work of making spokes and mating this hole thing to your wheels!

@@eVroomer oh yea its quite bit of work

@@megapet777 Indeed!

Hm... weird... I've not noticed anything... will have a look again when I get back to the bike! :)

Sadly not! Would have been useful though!

Could be! Question is... does the ODO record the mileage correctly, or is it also skewed towards the fake top speed?

Sometimes you can adjust the wheel size in settings to compensate for the spedo diff. Hope this can still help!

Thanks for the input! :)

What did you change? Can you recall?

Ами... от време на време и гледат, вместо директно да скочат на пътеката очаквайки, че бог ги пази...

I do! I while back I tried a pretty extreme mountain climb with it, stock wires and connectors, and the phase connectors melted and fused together, which was a bummer, but it was expected! I was thinking to replace those before the climb but forgot... haven't used it since then, but all was good up until they melted. Should repair the wiring soon enough and have it running again! Controller could use a better air circulation than what I had done though. If you plan on pushing it hard make sure it gets adequate cooling.

@@eVroomer damn that's sucks, if you was to buy a KT connector from ebay would that solve your issue?

@@Anees- I actually have some of those 3-pin XT60 type connectors with the yellow plastic housings, but just forgot to replace the factory connectors.

Well if you need that kind of speed I'd suggest picking up a higher voltage kit, perhaps a 60v one would give you the speed range you need, and you will need a decent size battery to get that range too!

@@eVroomer so a 60v kit? Should i get a 72v battery?

@@masterarselyn6470 If you are looking for 64km/h... a 60v system should be sufficient, I hope! That means also using a 60v battery! If you want a 72v battery you will need to get a 72v system.

@@eVroomer oh i see

@@masterarselyn6470 You can use a 72v battery with a 60v hub motor, but you need a 72v controller for sure! Easiest thing would be to get either a complete 60v or 72v system and pair it with the corresponding voltage battery.

I am not sure to be honest! In the manual I have I see no setting for factory reset!

@@eVroomer thank you for the quick response. Unfortunately I'm going to return the bike. Any recommendations on a decent e bike ? Trying to keep the price at around 1200.00 thank you for your time

@@Canadian9525 You mean a ready-to-use ebike, not a KIT?

@@eVroomer yes a ready to use ebike

@@Canadian9525 Lately I've seen some good remarks about the ADO bikes, if I am not mistaken in the name. Might want to check them out!

I think 1 and 2 on P08 are for - 1- pedal assist with throttle 2 - pedal assist with independent throttle

Did you try the settings? Did it work?

I know on mine the wires are red and green or so for throttle and exactly the same wiring and colours for pedal assist; and thus i think you may have the throttle on the pedal assists connection and vica versa. As they will both work on each other's connections because they both accelerate the wheel. Just that the activation peripheral is different. And after that in some cases P09 or so needs to be set to 1 or 2; meaning throttle and assist together or throttle and assist independent of each other

@@Islamicknowledge-yx8rt Actually... not sure the throttle will work if connected to the pedal assist wire. The throttle maintains a fixed position on the hall sensor when you twist it, which tells the controller how much throttle to apply. The pedal assist needs to rotate continuously in order for the controller to apply throttle to the hub... if you stop pedalling and hold it in one place, like you would the throttle, it will stop throttling as well! Either way, I do like how this works, and how you can use the pedal assist levels as speed limits, removes the need to try and keep a constant speed manually. Just set it to the limit you want and apply full throttle at all times, it will stay at whatever speed that limit is at without going over. :)

@@eVroomer Well...it was one or the other or vica versa ,but i cant remember because it was a few years ago. I cant even remember what happened. Maybe it just turned the wheel a bit. But i was hoping this would give him some insight to what may have happened or to figure it out 👍🏽

You are welcome!

Thank you! Much appreciated! :)

I can't, I don't speak Russian, you can enable captions and auto translation into Russian from the video options in the lower right corner of the video.

It would be very difficult for me to do that since I don't know Russian! You can enable the captions and the select "Russian" from the Auto-translate menu.

It would be very difficult for me to do that since I don't know Russian! You can enable the captions and the select "Russian" from the Auto-translate menu.

Hi, well what exactly do you mean by "messing with the controller"?