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I’ll have to check that brand out. I typically just use what ever is most convenient to buy locally.

@@wrenchestoadventures it's quite expensive and made by Shell but it's worth it. On my XJ, if I use any other kind of oil, it makes a clicking sound after shutting it off. With Rotella it doesn't make that sound and it sounds a bit quieter and runs smoother.

Thanks for the feedback. I did notice that too while I was editing the video. Looks like I have go pee haha I’ll work on that going forward.

That's awesome! I was also debating which way was easier. I had actually bought complete doors for the 97+ swap, but then decided to just convert my 96 doors to work with the 97+ windows and trim. It sounds like you had a equal amount of work to do to convert to the 97+ doors as I had in converting to just the windows and trim. I do really like the removable doors and half doors idea. I'll for sure be making some for my Comanche. So depending on how that goes ill probably make some for my XJ too.

Budget doesn't always mean cheap haha. I'm not a fan of tire carriers. I just ratchet strap my spare down in the back.

I do really like the look of vintage XJ parts too. It’d be cool if you could somehow do the removable steering with the Renix horn button?

@@wrenchestoadventures I mean, one could probably use screws or make an adapter.

I never thought about getting a larger throttle body. I’ll look into them. Thanks!

You’re welcome 👍🏻 That’s awesome you have 96 too! We need to keep these old XJs on the road! Good luck with yours.

@@wrenchestoadventures we have a 94 also

I’m not familiar with those spark plugs, I’ll look them up

Yeah I’m in that same boat! The best I can do is 13.8 MPG.

I agree, tire size does make a big difference. But I guess there is a trade off. You can't always find a narrower tire, especially in the bigger tires 37" and larger. At that point you just have to except your MPG is going suffer. HAHA

Haha yeah aerodynamics is not a trait the XJ has.

That’s one way to get better MPG 😂

Thanks for the insight. I actually did not consider the weight or temperature of the engine oil hurting the MPG. I was focused more on the way the fuel system operates. Open/ Close Loop etc. I would like to see some actual real life data on how much the oil weight/ temp affects MPG. Do you know of any good CZcams videos or web sites that could shed more light on this subject?

​@@wrenchestoadventures that's not how it works. Learn more about how and when the computer runs in closed/open.

Can you explain what you mean? I have a very good understanding of how the system works.

@@wrenchestoadventures O2 sensors don't work until they warm up from exhaust heat or their internal heating element. So until they start sending a signal the engine runs in open loop. Then switches to closed loop once it sees a reliable signal coming from the sensors. The engine may also go to open loop during hard acceleration. Viscosity of engine oil effects MPG because thicker oil creates more patristic drag on the engine. It takes more energy for the rings to wipe oil from cylinder walls. A thicker oil film adds mass to reciprocating engine components. Thicker oil causes more massive droplets of oil to be flying around the engine. Which saps more power from rotating and reciprocating engine components as they strike those more massive droplets. Also thicker oil requires more H.P. to pump. All these issues may seem trivial, but they're not. If you were to double the viscosity of an engine's oil it would likely quadruple oil induced parasitic drag.

I agree with you on how the o2 sensors work in relation to open/close loop. As well as under hard acceleration it does switch back to open in order to affectively supply the max amount of fuel. Thanks for the explanation on how the oil affects the MPG. I definitely learned something about it. What you said all makes sense to me. I wish there was an easy way to test MPG at different engine and oil temperatures. I’d like to see how much it actually affects the MPG.

Yeah no problem 👍🏻 You’re definitely going to like the next video then!

Yeah new fuel injectors and some heat shielding for them makes a big difference. Also I’m pretty sure the front drive shaft is good on the Blue Cherokee. Do you need one? Email me and we can talk more about it. wrenchestoadventures@gmail.com

@@wrenchestoadventures ya I need to for sure get to that soon. And ok I just sent you an email man

I’ve never tried Champion Copper plugs. Where do you buy them at?

Buy them at Auto Zone think any Auto parts store sells them

TJ Rubicon case, it’ll be going on the Comanche.

@@wrenchestoadventuressweet. I’ve been looking forever. Where did you find yours

I found locally here in Utah. It was on Facebook marketplace.

@@wrenchestoadventures what are the tags that you searched? I tried to find a couple of my area/Idaho but nothing comes up. I’m willing to travel up to six hours.

I just searched Np241j, or Rubicon Transfer case. They are super rare to find. I’ve only seen a couple. I passed one up a year ago. So when this one popped up I rushed to get it. They are pretty common on eBay.

No worries 👍🏻 I bought them off Amazon. There’s a video on my channel about them czcams.com/video/2R04PLXDhbk/video.htmlsi=aoovG_-xpxdBuB6c . The link to them is in the description.

I think you mean NGK Copper? I haven’t tried those in a 4.0. Do they hold up better than the Bosch plugs?

Yeah it’s crazy how much misinformation is out there. There are so many key board warriors out there on FB and forums pretending like they know what they are talking about. And then attacking others if their information is challenged. Most of them don’t even know what a FSM is haha. I’m glad you liked the video!

That's awesome! It just goes to show with a little maintenance on our old Jeeps they get so much better MPG. What year Jeep do you have? And how many miles are on it?

@@wrenchestoadventures I have a 98 limited 4 cylinder diesel, with 140k kilometers.

Oh cool, that’s awesome that it’s diesel!

@wrenchestoadventures yeah. Um trying to find ways to make more power. Unfortunately there is 0 aftermarket support 😞

Dang, that’d be cool to see it making more power.

Nope no issues at all removing the clock spring. It practically fell out once I got the steering wheel off.

@@wrenchestoadventureseven though mine is a 2000xj? I know the air bag light will come on.and the turn signals will return manually

From what I understand the clock spring on your 2000 XJ will be very similar to all other years of the XJ with a drivers air bag. Once you remove the air bag, steering wheel and the steering column trim, it should be as simple has unplugging it and removing it. My clock spring was just kind of floating there once the steering wheel was removed. There wasn't any screws holding the clock spring in place. I then pulled it out and unplugged it. Hope this helps.

It was on my Jeep when I got it. I used to have a matching valve cover too. But anyways, I think I’ve seen them on the Quadratec website.

Nope, no issues yet.

You are correct. So the counter sunk screws the PRP steering wheel came with were the wrong thread pitch for the quick release adapter. And the screws that came with the adapter were too short to go through the PRP center cover and the steering wheel. There was only a couple threads of engagement with the short screws. So I went to Ace Hardware and picked up some longer ones. Maybe if a different steering wheel was used the short screws would be fine or don’t run the PRP center cover. Hope that helps!

I just topped off the fluid after words. I started it up, and once it warmed up a little I checked it while it was in neutral. Then added some fluid. I’m not sure how much my cooler holds but I didn’t need to add very much. Maybe half a quart. Hope that helps!

That’s awesome! With a little maintenance these XJs last for ever. Your XJ sounds awesome! Did the 97 axles you swapped to have different gears and lockers?

Thanks for the support! I’m currently working on a couple videos now. I should have a new one up this weekend. I’m glad you like them! 👍🏻

Awesome! Thanks for the support. I’ll be posting some more Comanche content soon. I’m currently collecting more parts for it. Some original MJ parts are hard to come by.

Yeah that price wasn’t ideal. But the fitment was perfect and it’s made from brands I trust. Quality isn’t cheap.

My budget also took me about 4 years to complete too haha 🤣 Little by little. I got some good deals on my axles when I bought them. $800 from a complete rubicon front Dana 44 and $300 for a OEM XJ rear Dana 44. I collected part for a while before I started the build.

@@wrenchestoadventures Mine is a 2000 so I've got the Chrysler 8.25 29 spline in the rear. Plan on leaving the rear alone and getting a d44 for the front. Prices are just ridiculous right now, I'm two years in on my build.

@@randomritchie Yeah I agree, those hard to find Jeep parts hurt the wallet a little haha

Heck Yeah! No problem! I’m glad I could give you some inspiration. 👍🏻

Thanks! 👍🏻 Keep working hard. You’ll get there. But hey you don’t need anything fancy to make awesome content!

@@wrenchestoadventures for sure don’t need anything to fancy to make content or to even build something to have fun with just slows you down when it’s so weather dependent you know lol. But can’t wait to see what else you do to your garage shop and for the future projects you got going on as well.

I think it fits all XJs. I don’t remember seeing any year restrictions. You’ll just need to drill and tap the column like I did.

🫡

Thank You!

Seems like there’s a ton of controversy about using distilled water or DI water. Do you know of any good forum posts or CZcams videos about the differences?

I never did try my detail belt sander on the spot welds. I was worried about it grinding away to much material. Do you prefer the belt sander over spot weld drill bits?

@wrenchestoadventures it depends on accessibility if I can using spot weld cutter and bits then I will if not then the detail sander it is

I haven’t had any electrical issues yet. Hopefully I won’t have any. Im running 4.10 gears on 35’s.

@@wrenchestoadventures thank u

@GearDownCrawlerz yep, I’m always down to talk about Jeep stuff. So don’t hesitate to ask.

Yeah that’s a really good idea. When I install some on my Comanche that’s what I’ll do for sure.

@@wrenchestoadventures I just use regular rivets when I did mine I’m going to upgraded with rivet nuts.

It’s a 1996 Cherokee Sport

Thanks, I use a 110 Titanium Harbor Freight Welder with shielding gas.

@@wrenchestoadventures ahh I wish I would have saved some more money and waited for a deal on that welder vs getting the Chicago electric 110 flux welder. I got it for 60$ tho on clearance and a coupon and it’s been good for little stuff but I for sure feel like as I get more into fab work having the shielding gas is game changer for sure

Cool, thanks for the support! I have a ton of stuff planned. Also I wish the MJ window regulators were good too. I’d like to have manual windows in my XJ. But they were both binding really bad and one of them would only go so far then it would skip teeth on the worm gear.