Video

I noticed that you the axle nut was loose before you filmed... thats were Im stuck on mine. Soaking in liquid wrench tonight.

I had a hard time getting the screws back in, but I found that if you get in on the passenger side and lay across the seats you can better get to the screws. I used a short Phillips screwdriver.

After following your video and replacing both of my gfs 2016 Fusion Energi Titanium hub assemblies, she's now mentioning a squeeling noise coming from the front. Many years ago I had a 1975 datsun 280z ago that I did the brakes on. I forgot to apply the grease on the back of the new pads, and that sound made me want to put the car straight into a wall. But for this job, I removed the entire caliper. I can't figure out where it would be squeeling from. Any (MORE) help would be greatly appreciated. Nice work on the video and thank you for your help!

No computer check after installation?

where did you get that tool to get the tabs to move off of the lip

Is this bank 1 sensor 2

Replaced the assembly, and the fuse at the fuse box… no luck. Tried simple electrical cleaner and still no light. Any tip? Hoping don’t need new wiring harness or something

Would have liked to see the 2 bolts you were talking about.

Why the crummy musik

I dread doing this. I bought a camera years ago and still have yet to go through the process of pulling my tail pieces apart.... Ugh

Would a CV Joint cause binding? Like a wheel trying to lockup momentarily? Thanks

Holly anti seize lol

no copper grease on the outside of the pads or did I miss it? wont there be brake squeal? Thank you for the video doing my girlfriends tomorrow. She's managed to totally wear them down to nothing, indeed onside brake pad is now gone. Why just why do they wait till the brakes do not work anymore, pedal now goes near the floor.

Don't pin your stabilizer before. Your fight the sway bar. 13/4 steel bar is hard to fight.

Nice video. Does the auto parking brake affect the front🤷‍♀️

4.3 L

Thank you so much for your help! My wife has a bad bearing all of a sudden, and we're really short of cash lately so definitely need to do this myself. Getting the hub bearing delivered by Friday next week. Hopefully everything good in time for our trip to Mexico leaving on the 29th.

Did it fix the slipping?

You don't happen to know where i can find the part number for the housing do you? Mine have rusted really badly and I am thinking of replacing them but cannot seem to find a part name or number.

Does the front end need to get a realignment after this job?

It also works for 2015 Lexus is 250 you save me a couple hundred boss may god bless your for sharing your knowledge 🤝

shit, mine are froze on the hub....guess I will have to pound on them harder

if i remember right this car only had 69k miles - was the bearing really bad? was it a noisy tire or the transmission?

looks so clean underneath - i hear they transmissions and front engine cover tends to leak on these

This is a great video, this will help me very much. Thanks. One thing I like to do is take the master cylinder cap off before compressing the calipers.

you should never reuse a pin

They are called “worm clamps”. Because the screw is threaded like a “Worm gear”

Do you have to disconnect the battery first? Those slide pins really needed cleaning and re-greasing.

Its a 3.9

Pro tip. Put the anti seize on the inside of the bearing instead of on the shaft.

appreciate your video...perfect

For the spring assembly that holds the pin in place (at about the 10:20 mark), you can just use two small zip ties to keep everything together, then simply attach it as one piece. Once in place, snip the ties (which fall away), the spring pops out and keeps everything in place. Far, far easier than trying to surgically insert, connect, and properly position three individual pieces to a small pin that keeps turning and falling out of the back.

i noticed you didnt torque the hub bolts.. i couldnt get mine to the specs ive seen else where...just did what you did ... impact drilled as much as it would go . is it going to be a problem?

Excellent video. ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️

This video was a huge help. Saved me $400 of labor since my dad already had the tools. Of course being in the northeast I had to spend 20 minutes each pounding the rotors off because the factory original rotors were rust welded to the hubs. Which my Dad then came out on my 4th and final rotor with a shit eating grin and his air hammer. The only note I'd add for clarity with people new to car repair is that after the brakes are replaced your car will warn you about the brake pressure or something similar because of the pistons being fully compressed. Just pump the brakes with a full press of the brake pedal a few times. This will extend the pistons, reset the system, and give the new pads the right distance from the new rotors. Once the warning light goes off turn the car off wait a few seconds and turn it back on again to confirm everything is as it should be. Then go for a test drive.

Q: what is that spray you're using? Thanks.

Great video! A question: while you change the rotor and adjusting parking brake, the parking brake is engaged fully?

is it necessary to undo the axel? Getting ready to do my truck so I thought I would ask.

Great thourough video!

Thank you

Finish the job new o ring for filter insert and tell the correct amount to refill

Hey man, what brand rotors did you buy? Lookin for rear rotors with a painted hub like yours

Oh my goodness had me dead 😂

What brand did you use? I can't find a brand that suits my 2004 accord v6

Point of clarification on this video; I reached a point where the piston would NOT SCREW IN enough in order to order to insert the new pads and rotor diameter. It stopped turning. The compressor tool also has a feature that instead of turning the piston, which it would not, you can simply compress the piston with this tool (not turn). You MUST have it in Parking Service Mode however. Very frustrating not realizing this!! I have a 2016 ford fusion hybrid. Just letting others know, as it hit a point of not TURNING further and the tool can be used to simply compress the caliber priston, which it will do. Problem solved.

Was it possible for the motor too come out from the bottom? Don't have a engine crane that's all

Make this look like a breeze 🙀

Could this affect it goin into reverse?

You only had ro take the lower control arm bolt out to access the last hub assembly bolt.

Thanks for this video. i gotta change mine this morning. did not know about the rubber ring holding the rotor. glad u showed that. take care man. thanks