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Factory Rat Garage
Registrace 30. 09. 2018
Just a normal guy doing maintenance on his own vehicles and working on car projects old and new.
Nova Saginaw 800 series gearbox seal replacement
Replacing the bad leaking seals in my Saginaw gearbox on my nova
Amazon affiliate links to parts used in the video.
Seals - amzn.to/3VPU66y
Hose - amzn.to/3LgQqpu
Amazon affiliate links to parts used in the video.
Seals - amzn.to/3VPU66y
Hose - amzn.to/3LgQqpu
zhlédnutí: 49
Video
Nova dash restoration
zhlédnutí 141Před 8 měsíci
Restoring a blue dash for the nova and painting it black
Shiftworks 3spd to 4spd shifter conversion
zhlédnutí 414Před 8 měsíci
Converting the 3spd shifter to a 4spd with the shiftworks shifter conversion so it will work with the 4l80e
Terminator X bulkhead/Grommet install on the Nova.
zhlédnutí 222Před 10 měsíci
Installing a 3d printed grommet for instalation of the terminator X max through the firewall of my nova
Kustom side pipes for the pro touring Nova
zhlédnutí 1,6KPřed 11 měsíci
Making a set of custom side pipes for the Nova Amazon affiliate links to items used in this video. amzn.to/45k35jk 3” v band clamps amzn.to/3DNHy70 4” elbows amzn.to/3DO6rzq 4” exhaust tips www.amazon.com/dp/B07J2L2KM4/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_api_gl_i_J7CECKXFW0Z7JQVPXAJZ?linkCode=ml2&tag=factoryratgar-20 flowmaster flow fx mufflers amzn.to/44XALUp 3” elbows
Junkyard Parts searching for LS Swap
zhlédnutí 1,2KPřed rokem
Searching for Dodge Intrepid fans for the LS swap nova, and other parts.
Derale trans cooler installation on LS swapped NOVA
zhlédnutí 3,6KPřed rokem
Installing a new Derale trans cooler to keep the 4L80E cool in the Nova Amazon associates link to parts I used in video below. Transmission banjo fittings- amzn.to/3Qn2NDg
Tanks Inc EFI tank assembly for the NOVA
zhlédnutí 963Před rokem
Walk through on assembling the fuel pump and sending unit on the TANKS inc tank for the Nova. Make sure to check out @OldCarGarageUSA Amazon affiliate links to items used in video. amzn.to/3IZFRXn 45 6an fitting amzn.to/3WQKQPM straight 6an fitting amzn.to/3oQ1GSc 6an to 3/8 gm quick connect fitting amzn.to/43wS1PK 6an to 5/16 gm quick connect fitting amzn.to/3MNp2jk walbro fuel pump sock amzn....
Challenger SRT8 thermostat replacement
zhlédnutí 2,7KPřed rokem
Changing the thermostat on 2010 Challenger SRT8 due to engine code "not cooling thermostat stuck open".
Making/installing new gm quick connect hard fuel lines on the LS swapped Nova
zhlédnutí 135Před rokem
We make new gas lines out of ni-cobb line and put GM quick connect ends on them and install everything. Amazon affiliate links to items used in video. amzn.to/3IWp9I9 5/16 copper nickel tubing amzn.to/45Xdx1J 3/8 copper nickel tubing amzn.to/43FPOkA hydraulic flaring tool amzn.to/3IZJDzE tubing bender amzn.to/3IZFRXn 45 6an fitting amzn.to/3WQKQPM straight 6an fitting amzn.to/3oQ1GSc 6an to 3/8...
Seam sealing the underside of the nova.
zhlédnutí 198Před rokem
Going over all the seams and welds on the underside of my 78 Nova after doing lots of patch's. Amazon affiliate link to supplies used in video amzn.to/3N8hDfY seam sealer
Hot oil dipping bolts to help rustproof them.
zhlédnutí 489Před rokem
heating bolts up after cleaning to quench them in oil to help rustproof them.
Harbor Freight tumbler review, removing rust from rusted bolts.
zhlédnutí 682Před rokem
Harbor Freight tumbler review, removing rust from rusted bolts.
Undercoating and internal frame coating my 78 Nova
zhlédnutí 410Před rokem
Undercoating and internal frame coating my 78 Nova
Welding cast iron exhaust manifold 2.4 Ecotec
zhlédnutí 845Před rokem
Welding cast iron exhaust manifold 2.4 Ecotec
Starting 2.4 Ecotec after complete engine rebuild.
zhlédnutí 13KPřed rokem
Starting 2.4 Ecotec after complete engine rebuild.
Replacing bad piston rings, broken parts in oil pan
zhlédnutí 5KPřed rokem
Replacing bad piston rings, broken parts in oil pan
Replacing bent valves and lapping in new valves on 2.4 ecotec head
zhlédnutí 21KPřed rokem
Replacing bent valves and lapping in new valves on 2.4 ecotec head
Removing bent valves and prepping head for new valves
zhlédnutí 3,5KPřed rokem
Removing bent valves and prepping head for new valves
You should never activate the tensioner until its torqued to spec , you press on the guide and it activates , as your chain stretches overtime it extends
@@autry7428 ok 👌
I've watched your series over and over, this was my holy Bible when doing the valves and timing on my terrain. Thanks for the great video. 😊
@@xTheunknowntuberx I’m super happy it helped thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching.
Great help😊😊😊
Nicely done! You explain things very well.
@@VinoRatRodbuilds thank you sir.
Awesome video! Super helpful and hope to see more!
Looks like you can use those as prototype, make a jig and reproduce them!
That would be awesome.
Does thos product work well? Worth it ? I have a 4l60e pullin a trialer in this summer heat. Temps hit 200 even plis and trans poops
I haven’t had any hard use on it so I can’t say.
Awesome video, bro. How did you come to the decision of not honing the cylinders for the new rings? I apologize if you mentioned that during the install. I'm asking because I'm wondering how far to go on a 2011 chevy malibu 2.4 that my mother in law gave me. Has 190k miles, and I'm replacing the timing and everything involved with that, and I'm wondering if I should remove the head and possibly rering the pistons. I have done a ton of research, and everyone does differently. I like your content, so I wanted your opinion if you would share it with me. I know the cars history and lack of maintenance. I would like the car to last as long as I can make it last. The reason I want to remove the head is that she kept having to have coolant added with no visible coolant leaks and areas around the engine with dried coolant to indicate a leak. I would appreciate your take on how far you would go and about honing before you put new rings. Thanks bro I appreciate any advice, and your content is awesome. Thank you!!
So I didn’t hone the bores because they still had good visible cross hatching from the factory and I didn’t see the need to hone them if they looked fine. If they were glazed and no visible crosshatching I would have honed. Mine is still running daily to this day. It sounds like yours might need a head gasket if it’s losing coolant, it could be leaking into the cylinder and burning off. That could be why no visible leaks on the outside. I hope this helps, good luck on your build and thanks for watching.
Thank you for the reply. That's awesome bro glade to hear she's still running strong.
Nice video i’m getting ready to do my 2.4 L engine and I have a question I see in the video you didn’t hone the cylinder. We do you flex hone the cylinder?
My cylinder bores still had factory cross hatching so I didn’t feel a need to fe-hone them. If they would have been glazed or smooth I would have honed them but I didn’t see a need. Good luck with your build. Thanks for watching.
It doesn’t require a relay?
If I remember it didn’t require one. But I added one later. I don’t have the instructions anymore but You can look up the instructions online.
Question. The camshafts have about 1/8" play from front to back (relative to the motor) before tightening them down. I centered them up so the wear line on the front of the shaft matched the outside of the head, and the machined parts lined up with the bearings they sit in. Still, it's a little concerning that I have 1/8" of leeway to choose where it sits exactly before I tighten it down. The tapered flanges on the front of the camshaft were maybe 1/16" away from the inside of the head like that. Do you know exactly how that's supposed to be positioned?
It sounds like you did everything fine
just finished up a 2.4 rebuild doing valves and chain for my first time ever thank you for the detailed videos i watched them several times. helped me out a ton!
I’m glad they helped. Thank you.
is that a Th400 crossmemeber?
It’s the standard cross member for that car, my car originally came with turbo 350. It fits the 4l80 great, just moved it back one hole then drilled out for the second hole. Thanks for watching.
Where are you located so that you can do that to mine
You don't mention it in the video, but the valve retainers are tapered, and the thicker part should be towards the top.
Correct, it would be almost impossible to install wrong. I probably figured that part would be self explanatory lol
@@factoryratgarage You underestimate my ability assemble things wrong! Lol. They will go in that way, but the valve stem will stick up about 1/8" above the spring because the spring is compressed more.
@@daneast you are correct, I said ALMOST impossible but not impossible lol
Really clean, like it!
Thank you, and thanks for watching.
Did you have to bleed or burp the system?
I did not, just added the antifreeze that came out back in and it bled itself just fine. Thanks for watching
bro never ever us a metal object to attempt to hold any sprockets n it looked like u used the old sprocket since ya chipped a tooth on the new one n then it could be seen u using the the same tool again on other sprockets! geez man a wooden dowel or like my dad uses nylon tool he ground to shape to wedge against the sprockets so theres no damage n did u torqe the bolts to 59inch lbs?
I’m sure I could have done a bunch of stuff better or different. If you’d like to point me in the direction of YOUR video on how to hold gears PROPERLY I’ll take that into consideration if I ever have to do it again. Thanks for watching.
Any oil consumption issues since fixing this? I'm looking at doing this repair myself.
No. It uses oil now like a normal car. Night and day difference in oil consumption and it’s a daily driver since the rebuild. Good luck on your build.
Awesome. Thanks for the reply!
Link to the fittings on the transmission
amzn.to/3Qn2NDg
This is an amazing video. I am facing the same job, and this is going to be invaluable. Thanks
Thank you. Good luck on your build.
Still pondering a junk yard fi tank from something? My pans gone. I even thought of any tank/in the trunk with a fire wall behind the rear seat. Really rusted 67 malibu. Ha!
Cheap of them not including the co u pling
Also can I do this with flux or stick? That’s what I have.
Yes same process, the key is heating it up before welding, keeping it hot and when done letting cool very slowly. You could wrap it in a heat blanket or cover it completely in sand, just let it come down slowly. Thanks for watching good luck on your build.
@@factoryratgarage ahh I see that’s assuming it’s cast?
@@KollynJ correct. If it’s cast steel it’s not as bad. I’d still do a little pre heat then grind and weld but up to you.
I wanted to patch my manifold but now that it’s off I can’t find the pinhole cracks even with air pressure and soap 😅
You could use a crack finder aerosol set if you’re having trouble.
Do you have the link to what relay setup you used for the temp sensor is it just a 4 pin relay?
No I don’t, it was just one I had laying around. Just a standard 4 pin relay.
Does putting new rings in stop the oil burning issue with these engines?
It did for me. Goes through oil at a normal rate now, instead of a quart every couple weeks.
Thanks for the quick response 👍 I have one cylinder with no compression. But otherwise still runs . So I'm thinking it's a bad compression ring.
Clean install! Are you running a relay? Is there an on/off switch for manual on? Thanks
Thank you, at the time I had no relay or manual switch I’ve since added a relay. In the future I want to tie it into my terminator x system. Thanks for watching
I like the way you did this.
Thank you.
No need to hone cylinders? Just curious. I've always heard cylinders need to be hone if installing new rings.
So I could still see really good cross hatching on the cylinder walls so I didn’t see a need to hone them. If they were glazed over maby I would, but my rings seemed to seal just fine. Still running over a year later daily driving.
@@factoryratgarage My timing chain needs to be replaced on my 2010 equinox 2.4 with 175k miles. I need to pull the engine out to replace my rear main seal also. I might a well do a complete overhaul while I got it out. Your videos are very helpful. Thank you!
@@wnicorn6702 that’s why I did an overhaul in mine, I figured I’m already here and it’s not much more time or money. Thank you for the kind words, good luck on your build.
I really liked my 08 Malibu 2.4. Good power and pretty reliable. Never had chain issues. My in laws own it and it’s at 200k with zero major repairs. Thinking of buying it back for my son. Mostly freeway miles, but good engines in my opinion. People just don’t keep up with oil changes. I’d always perform the change at 30%.
I used a Dodge Durango chassis under my 1954 international metro
That’s awesome
I have the same problem, jumped time and all the valves are bent. pistons look ok, small groove but nothing bad. Im a little worried the pistons were messed up by smacking all of the valves, should i worry or just replace the valves and send it. otherwise is there any test i should run to see if the pistons are good?
I would just give the pistons a good cleaning and look the tops over real good, if you don’t see anything they’re more than likely ok. Pistons are pretty resilient. No test I can think of other than a leak down test but that would require all the valves and head be put back together and then you won’t have a definitive answer weather it’s piston rings or cracked piston.
Did check engine kight go off by itself or u had to reset it ?
I reset it after I changed thermostat.
@@factoryratgarage thx man. Jus finished and reset it. Ur vid helped me thru lol
Dude you need some power tools
What power tools do you need to rebuild a head ?!
have 2.4 ecotec on 2013 terrain. bent valves from timing chain. is it better to buy a rebuit engine or pay someone to fix this?
Most places won’t rebuild they usually just replace whole engine, if you find a place that will rebuild it might cost about the same as a replacement engine. I rebuilt mine cause I had the time and skills and it saved me a bunch of money. Good luck with your build.
Thanks for vids. Big help as im currently doing all of this. 2011 equinox 2.4 Laf. Question. Is there an up and down to the valve springs? Not alot info for that. I measured both ends spring gap and one end is 2 hundredths less so put tighter end down on head seat. Is that correct? Question. On cam vvt oil seals. Info i found said important to put the seals splits opposite each other 12 and 6. Then service manual says put both splits at 12. Are they supposed to be 12 on intake and 6 on exhaust? Or 12 on both or doesnt it matter? Thanks in advance for any info. Also noticed you wearing CMU shirt in vid. Im in mid michigan. Can you come do this for me? Lol.
Your springs should be fine, typically unless there beehive springs they don’t matter, I just looked at my manual and it also says 12 o clock position, I can’t remember off hand mine as it was over a year ago but I’d go by the manual. And I’m from mid Michigan too, good luck on your build.
@@factoryratgarage Thanks for info. I'm in saginaw wanna come check it out I'll pay for time? Do these cylinders need honing? They look good and bearings look great but replacing anyway. Dont wanna replace cap bolts either but manual say to.
@@grdcv I’m about hour and half away from Saginaw I appreciate the offer but I really don’t have the time right now. I didn’t hone mine I could still see cross hatching in my cylinders so I ran with it. My bearings looked good so I reused, also reused bolts. Still driving daily with no problems.
@@factoryratgarage Thats cool figured longshot. Bought this at 90k got 100k out of it in 3 y yrs. On the clock 3000k oil changes. It broke black guide and top guide chain jumped 3 teeth. Couldnt get comp so head off. Valves good. Pan off to get pieces plastic out. Figured do rings and bearings. Orig bearings looked good. Hope works. Thanks for how to big help with 50 others and alot of confusion. Was surprised how clean everything was except oil rings. Thousands in oil changes and constant checking only way made it this long.
@@grdcv sounds like exactly what happened to me. You got this, good luck on your build.
Any progress on how this is running? New valves running good with a used head?
This has been running and driving everyday with zero problems since this complete rebuild. Thanks for watching
Dorman has a "timing chain guide bolt replacement" 917-954. They have a "case study" and video. Not sure if the Dorman bolt is preventative maintenance. Is the the failure is from OEM tensioner, oil sprayer, cheap plastic guides, bolt, etc. I read that the tensioner and oil sprayer were upgraded in replacement kits. Regardless, might not be a bad idea to check the bolt is tight (I suppose that is easiest taking off the round cover). If one installs the Dorman bolt, I'm not 100% sure if the tensionoer should be loosened and redelployed (which require removing the valve cover).
I installed the replacement tensioner bolt. It’s a better design and like it.
@@factoryratgarageThanks, I just saw that on the next video. Do you think one could install the bolt as prevention without messing around with the tensioner?
@@dosgos I would say it’s possible but if you pull the bolt out the chain will tighten from the tensioner, so I would say if you do it I’d recommend taking the timing cover off to release the tension on tensioner.
@@factoryratgarageThank you! This is a great 2.4 rebuild series.
@@dosgos thank you
What gas did you use?
Regular steel mix 75-25
Never install the standard GM RH secondary (black) chain guide as they often break at the top fixing hole. Use a modified stronger one which are available in the US, together with stronger 10.9 bolts (or ARP bolts) which can be purchased as a kit. Make sure the oil filter is primed before start-up after an oil change.
Looks good I've been thinking about this for my 85 cutlass. You have inspired me to go for it. Lol
Great video! Me and my son are replacing the valves on a 2017 GMC Terrain with the 2.4 ecotec. This is going to be his first car. I've followed along your video and its been such a big help as I never done this before. I was hoping you could help me out because we're kind of stuck. Ive seen conflicting things online about where my camshaft notches should be with the 2017 lea models. It looks like yours are both around the 5 o'clock mark, if i'm correct my intake notch should be at the 10 o'clock mark and my exhaust should be around 5 o'clock. Also, my valves aren't completely closed on the 1 and 2 cylinders, is this a problem? Last thing, to my knowledge I set the engine at TDC before i removed everything. My #1 and #4 pistons are all yhe way up almost flush with the top of the block and the #2 and #3 pistons are all the way down. Is this correct? Sorry for the long comment. I'm hoping for a hail mary here lol. There's not much online for this and you seem like you know your stuff.
First it sounds like your working on a 2.2l not the 2.4l. The 2.2l cams I think should be at 10 and 7 o’clock, and the 2.4l is at 5 and 7 o’clock. Second if your cams are in the proper location number 1 should be all closed as that’s the compression stroke for TDC. Third I think as long as your cams are in there respected positions and the crank key is at 12 o’clock that should be TDC, so if 1 and 4 are up and 2 and 4 are down that probably is right. Now this is information for my 2010 terrain I’m not 100% sure if things changed for 2017, but I think this might get you in the right direction. I hope this helps.
The cam positions for the actuators change from the 2010 to 2017 You should look at a video on a newer engine model for your timing The first 2.4 was an laf motor The later 2.4 is an Lea
Nicely done.
With enough searching of other videos, yours finally came up in recommendations. Thank goodness. Your instructions are clear cut and easy to understand, especially when you consider my career is computer nerd. However, after seeing what you've done, I am pretty sure I could do this on my daughter's '14 Equinox. Chain either jumped or broke. I think the first. Anyway, I do plenty of medium level car work, so no noob by any sense. Plus, I have brother in laws with a crapton of car experience. One question, though: it's the piston rings that are the cause of the oil issues with these damn engines, right? If I'm putting in the work on a budget, I'd like to solve that issue so I won't need to babysit the dipstick every weekend.
Thanks for the kind words. In my experience the piston rings are the problem, after doing mine the oil consumption is very normal not a quart a week like it used to be. Take your time, and you will be fine. Good luck on your build.
Same story here… oil consumption, timing chain, valves ect. So I’m about to begin to attempt this project, thanks for the videos. I like the music too.
Thank you, I hope my videos help you through. Good luck on your build.
How did it work out same thing just happened to me I’m getting 60% in one valve my mechanic said is it worth fixing the timing chain for 1400
@@__NJ__ good luck on your build if you decide to do it.
Havnt finished yet… fortunately we ended up getting another vehicle from a family member, so I’m not in a big hurry to finish it. My intake valves were all bent, but will replace all of them.
I’m doing the work myself so I’ll have about $400 into it, ours is a 2014 with just under 100k miles so definitely worth it for me.
I just finished this same rebuild on a 2.4 following your videos. and it runs like a top thanks awesome video.
I’m super happy to hear that, thanks for watching.
Nicely done. 👍
Please tell me where you got the demon front end from please!! I’ve been looking everywhere
Vicrez. Got hood and bumper.
I used that other valve spring compressor you had plus a bit of pipe I cut off. I had to compress the spring, then glue the collets on with grease using a stick I poked down the pipe. What a mission.
That’s awesome ingenuity, it’s definitely a good time lol.