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The three phase wires carry the ac current from the controller to the motor to drive the motor. The HALL sensor wires tell the controller the position of the motor. You need them all connected for it to work.

​​@@alibro7512i have a Sparta ion rx plus that i want to convert to a KT-controller, but i only have 3 phase wires coming out of the motor. It's a direct-drive motor with 24 magnets. I am told. Regards

@@user-2uf2kr2c There are sine wave controllers that will work without hall sensors but I believe in that situation they revert to being square wave. I don't know of a sine wave controller that will work as sine wave without hall sensors.

@@alibro7512 so sinewave controllers need hall sensors to work as sonewave? Is that what you're saying? Regards

@@user-2uf2kr2c As far as I am aware yes.

Sorry I'm not sure what a pass sensor is. It's been a couple of years since I looked at this.

@@alibro7512 pedal assist. it's put on the crank. Regards

@@user-2uf2kr2c LOL, that's PAS then, not pass. 🤣Like I said, it's been a while since I looked at this stuff. I still don't understand what you are asking as PAS and HALL are not related. KT controllers need HALL sensors to see the position of the motor magnets in relation to the coils. PAS is telling the controller what you are doing with the pedals but you don't need PAS for it to work.

Sorry no idea

IT depends on the controller. My KT would not work without hall sensors but another controller did.

I don't think the motor manufacturers ever use odd number of magnets. I could be wrong but from what I've heard there are common numbers and 46 is one of them.

@@alibro7512 I believe, at least in the SW900 screens menu's you change the magnet number 1 at a time. I've got to do mine later as i've just had to install and setup a new controller and I only get 000's on the display apart from the wattage so I need to find out how many magnets my motor hub has too as I never set this ebike of mine up in the 1st place.

@@geepeerces I can't remember what resistance I ended up using but maybe a couple K. Anyway it worked with no issue.

Thank you my friend, I really appreciate your kind words. I've have pinned this comment so everybody can see how nice a person you are.

Thanks for your comment. While this is true there are other reasons for disconnecting it after the main positive contactor closes. If you watch my newer video's you'll see that I had an issue (self inflicted) that caused the precharge resistor to go bang.

No, these come with a manual explaining how to set them up.

If I were using the bms correctly the thickness would matter but it turns out I can only turn the bms on when off load. In other words when not driving. This is because of the resistance between cells 40 and 41. When driving cell 40 shows wildly out of balance because of the voltage drop between the packs. When unloaded it is fine.

@@alibro7512 thanks for the answer. I have to admit I don’t fully get what you’re saying ( sure that’s my lack of understand rather than your explanation) so maybe I have a bit more binge watching to do before I get up to speed with the end of your journey.

I should explain, I’m at the first step of a conversion (Resolve-EV VCU with full leaf motor), so still in absorbing mode in terms of what questions to ask, and then what the answers mean when I get them. I do intend to split my battery modules front and rear, hence my original question.

@@ianlighting100 If you can split them 50/50 then do it although it won't be perfect it will help and make life easier. . TBH I'm not sure how others handle split packs. Good luck with your build.

​@@ianlighting100 I tried to answer this but Pootube lost it. A bms has the positive of every cell connected to the neg of the next, so the voltage shown for each cell is in relation to the previous one. That is OK when the resistance between each cell is the same but if some idiot puts 5m of cable between two cells it will have a resistance, even if it is 50mm2. There will be a few mV voltage drop which skews the reading for that cell.

You're braver than me as my next plan is to sell the car. 🥲 It has almost 150k miles and I fear the auto gearbox will need attention soon. It has already been serviced with new fluids a couple of years ago but I think the sensors may be on their last legs. I love the car but it's not worth spending that kind of money on.

You're right so I'll figure out a way to incorporate a fuse. I guess it''s like anything, If I were to do it all again I'd do many things differently. Maybe next time. 😋

@@alibro7512 The reason I did the fuse thing was because I could not afford to fry my resistor..... Stuff is just unbelievably expensive out here that I could not risk it. Those high power fuses out here cost a couple of hundred bucks in my money, and, not every shop carries stock or even the correct values, so I did that out of necessity........ I envy you being where you are with access to what you have, hence, why I can only look and comment from my armchair position..... Plus.... I've heard people say hindsight is always 20/20....... But, if it were easy, then, everyone would be doing what you are doing...... And therein lies the difference....

I think the main problem was, even though the fuse blew the car still operated normally. Until it didn't. The timer module was still operating normally and (glitching normally unfortunately) . A fuse on the resistor would have saved it and caused the car to cut out but without any harm to anything except the fuse. I've also put a 1500µF cap across it which seems to have cured the glitching and waiting for a delivery off 100nF ceramics to do add to it to be sure.

Yes, the 1500mfd will most certainly help smooth out the supply but will also act as a resivour/ buffer, the ceramic will deal with any pulses or rf switching type noise... Very good call....

Sorry I hadn't properly understood your suggestion when I first read it. Yes that sounds sensible so I'll do that.

This app hasn't been updated for a few years but if you watch my other video about PC software I believe it is still available.

Thanks mate, Not sure it was a great idea but it worked, if a little cock eyed. 😋

@@alibro7512 such is life. Amor Fati.

The cable has a USB to serial adapter built in so yes you need it. Note this only works on older models. I'm not sure when the change happened.

@@alibro7512 ok thx

@@alibro7512 Another thing, my bike has the output to connect the Bafang cable but it's a momodesign electric bike, does it work the same or does it necessarily have to be Bafang, thanks?

It's the controller that matters. Is it bbs01 /2 or 3 and more than three years (ish, I'm not certain) old.

If I could write the program for the Mega then probably, however my idea of programming an Arduino is to plagiarise the work of others and comment stuff out until it stops working then do the reverse. I already had the Due and already had the sketch to run on it so for me it was a no brainer. Some day I might even copy all the code from the three Arduinos onto a single Due but that is a job for future Alibro.

Yeah, I hear you, I am just playing devils advocate though, I am thinking of all the systems you have though, heating, timing control for those contactors etc. it should also save you some space as you could put the mega inside the current housing under the fuse blocks saving you another housing. Good cleanup so far..... It's always the little things that take the most time...

@@GapRecordingsNamibia I'm fully aware that my setup is.......ahem, sub optimal but we run what we brung and in this case I didn't bring a brain capable of coding. 😒

@@alibro7512 🤣😂 I hear you..... But, still think you will kick my butt when it comes to coding....

@@GapRecordingsNamibia 🤔 Sorry mate I suspect you are wrong, my coding skills have always been terrible even back in the day when I was tapping away at my Commodore VIC20 I was hopeless and haven't improved any since. My idea of writing code is to copy the work of others and make changes one bit at a time to see what happens.

Thanks, it was a long job. Yes I can send 5V directly to the Arduino Uno and probably the Due but I wasn't sure about the Due as it is a 3.3V device with a 5V rail. I decided to use a DC buck converter instead.

As far as I can tell any of the cheapest nastiest ebike controllers from ebay or amazon will work. The slightly better Sine wave controllers probably will not unless they are sold as being able to work "without hall effect sensors"

Only if your Bafang is the older model made before 2021 or 22. If so then yes it will work in 2024 or 2025 or 2026. 😉

@@alibro7512 so theres a no chance to flash motor firmware made after 2022?

@@MarekZpe3n As far as I know it won't work but I could be wrong. The cable is cheap and the software is free so try it and report back.

@@alibro7512 Okey. I have last question, i find that you can play with those “unlocked” features, if you use eggrider display. Is that correct? Even with newer made motors? Thank you for your answer.

@@MarekZpe3n Sorry, it's been a long time since I looked at this so I don't know.

Sorry I'm not sure what you are asking?

All CAN networks need to have two 120 ohm resistors, one at either end. If you are connecting to an existing working network it will already have them so you don't need any.

@@alibro7512 it seems my problem is the OBD II port, after going through all your videos and reading the comments I saw you mentioned using another library, I wonder if I can get Any instructions from you? I feel very grateful for that!

@@nhutdominh7624 Sorry I made this video 3 years ago and haven't looked at it the OBDII connection again since. My EV project is connected directly to the CAN wires in the loom.

If it is not compatible it won't connect so no harm in trying.

@@alibro7512 Thank you for your answer :) I will try it tomorrow.

Short out any permanent magnet motor and it will cog when you try to turn it. Each time it cogs the coils are passing across the magnets.

Not sure about the odo TBH but a better way to go is an Arduino Due with SavvyCAN and two transceivers. The Due already has two CAN ports but needs the transcievers to communicate with the outside world and Savvycan was designed to work with it.

Sort of, more of a swimming pool really. Have you ever heard of a stone drain? Back in the day before modern machinery farmers dug trenches and filled them with stones to drain their fields. While I was digging the pit I came across a stone drain and funny old thing, but the pit suddenly filled with water. I drained it a few times, got tired of digging in a sodden hole when I reached around 4ft, put down a water proof liner and lined the sides with block and concrete. Somewhere in this process I must have holed the liner cause the pit is now full of water and I can't be bothered draining it again. Truthfully it was never really deep enough to be a big help so now is never opened. 😒

My torch was in poor shape and made welding with it difficult so it made a big difference for me. The longer lead is great when welding in awkward places.

Where did you connect to the CAN bus? Modern cars have more than one

@alibro7512 sorry for not mentioning that. In the OBD2 port on CANH and CANL. If I dont have that connected, I get no data at all. So I am definitely getting something there. Side note: I am using hybrid assistant on my Android radio via a bluetooth MX+ adaptor. I can see speed, rpm, battery charge, discharge, temperature. Would have liked to see all that on Ardiuno inorder to make a LCD display with info. So all that is on the OBDII. BUT, for now, I want to determine headlights high beam or low beam.

@@alibro7512 I really appreciate your time to reply. I have read tons of comments now and on your video also. I see you (or someone else) me tioned that the OBDII can be locked. I will try to tap into the wires next to the module I want to decode, bypassing the OBDII port. I hope that will give me more info! Thanx again. I hope I can contact you for info again?

@@benriefourie115 I haven't looked at this for a few years but I remember one of the example sketches for one of the several CAN Shields I had was able to read PID's from the ODBII port but I couldn't figure out how and don't remember which it was. I found it easier to connect directly into the CAN at the ECU.

I never tried to adjust the foot pedal but in my case the parking brake is completely rubbish. It surprises me every time it passes mot.

@@alibro7512 my mot failed due to this crap handbrake. Alhamdulillah its passed today. But its still not great on a hill. Any idea where the adjustment screw is, in older c class it under the seat I wonder if this w212 behind the exhaust

@@Suhail.Khan-24 Sorry I don't know

I guess if you cannot wind back the shoes then forcing it off with crowbars or whatever is your only choice. Are you sure the parking brake is fully released?

I don't think so but I haven't looked at this for a while. Check out the Seeed app as it has a great help section that explains most things.

@@alibro7512 will do, and thanks!

I guess that is the result of poor planning, bad design and some, not so great choices along the way. 🙄

@@alibro7512 Also FWD/AWD - always more packed in those just due to the layout. Mine is a bit of a luxury for a small car having all that space to work with.

@@EVDIY Yip, the Gearbox, motor and IRD (4WD bit) take up the the bottom of the engine bay.

Check out my earlier video for more of the BMS

How old is your Bafang? Anything built in the last two or three years will not work anyway. If it is old enough maybe buy a used phone off ebay.

@@alibro7512 Just downloaded Luna cycle programing program on laptop. It talked to the bike I changed current limit to 75-80 and it's speed limit 72-80 and it didn't increase the speed.

@@alibro7512 it's a BBS3

@@gundam42d64 I think some have a max speed so maybe you can't change that. Just be very careful to document any changes you make so you can get back to a working setup if something goes wrong.

@@alibro7512 Yeah I did. It's kind of a kick in the balls to hear may not be able to hack into but hey it reachs 28mph effortlessly and will go 32mph with mad peddling plus throttle and has gone 35mph with perfect road conditions. At least it doesn't have the U.K stupid 16mph restrictions for a 1000W motor which is a waste.

Thanks 😊