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Hey DazzleLoo. I don't think it matters much what the point of the needle is. The type of yarn used on flat Kevlar wicking, is a loose weave, so that you aren't having to poke through a tightly woven product like denim. There are a lot of layers and that can compress around the needle though, causing it to be tough to push through (not a tip issue but just all the material layers around the needle). So I would recommend a high quality steel in the needle, so that you don't break the needle while pushing through. Those types of needles are def more expensive than normal needles and are surgical or spring steel. Here is our wick repair kit if that helps -> dark-monk.com/Equipment/Wick-Repair-Kit

Thank you for your response. The reason I ask is because ballpoint, which is normally for knits in sewing, moves the knits aside for the needle. While sharps can cut the knit, causing an enlarged hole. I ask because bigger the hole I was thinking more room for oxygen to burn my threads. What needle size do you use? I wanna try and keep my needle as small as I could.

@@DazzleLoo I think a ballpoint might be slightly better, but for how loose most kevlar wicking is, I don't think it really matters. You don't really make a hole with a loose weave like this. Reducing the heat absorption is key to not having your thread burn through. The best way to prevent that is to have as small as possible stitches showing on the top layer. It isn't really the oxygen, but more just the overall heat at the outer layer that will cause the damage. If the thread is loosely stitched with a large exposed stitch, that will cause the thread to fail. I hope that helps.

Usually I would try to use what ever method the makers of the fan used originally. Taking all of the existing wicking off, use their method to attach new wicking, the sew the edge down. We have a video up here titled "How to Sew Wicks" that shows my recommendation for sewing. My default method if I can't use what ever the maker did, is usually to sew / lash the first few layers of kevlar to the fan spoke if there is some sort of loop or hole in the spoke. If there is just a straight piece of metal, then you should probably find a friend that has welding skills and get some spikes welded to the spoke. There are janky ways to attach something to a straight rod, but i don't recommend them for fans. The force you put on the wicks while spinning is strong enough, they need a good mechanical locking method. If you need more help, send me a pic of the rod with no wicking on it at info@dark-monk.com You could also use the same over-wicking method shown in this video and just sew the wicks closed instead of adding screws. I did test this exact method on fans for about a year and it held up incredibly well too.

Thank you so much! @@DarkMonk

I prefer about a TEX 120 thread size.

You can set them to many different colors and modes. www.ultrapoi.com/products/ultraknob-pro

I have not tried casting with it yet, but it is my belief / understanding that you can cast with it just like normal aluminum. I have not tested that or done extensive research about it though.

@@DarkMonk Dude. I need to put it to the test.

LONG time Bleach fan here. LOVE that they have restarted the series and HOLY HELL they started it with a smack in the face.

The grade of AL doesn't change the weight. It is a very small amount of manganese I believe that makes the big difference in the strength properties but doesn't effect the weight.

We (Dark Monk) use 11" of 1/16" thick 1.5" wide wicking for our eating torches.

We have had test wicks being used for over 2 years now with no screws falling out. I would check the screws like you do any part of your equipment each night or before you leave for an event just in case. If they are getting loose, just tighten them up. But so far, we haven't seen them get loose.

Most towing straps (or belting) has a really tight weave, which means it won't hold fuel well. Liquid is held in the spaces between the fibers of a wick. Over tightened wicks also have this problem. You should also confirm the strap is 100% kevlar or some para-aramid product. If it is 1/2 polyester and 1/2 para-aramid (e.g. Kelvar) then it is bad news bears if you light that up. You can always test burn a small section of the strapping to see what happens. Just do it is a well ventilated area and watch for dark black smoke / dripping plastic.

@@DarkMonk cool. thx. i think im in luck i will try to make it work🔥

Hey Hala. We have a BUNCH of videos we need to make and a description of the differences between swords would be a good one to add to the list. Thank you for the suggestion. Feel free to email us at info@dark-monk.com any time if you have questions also.

I like the heavier ones when I am practicing / drilling new stuff. Just bounces less and is more forgiving. If you have ok or better upper body strength and no shoulder injuries, def the way to go. We upgraded the EPDM with a silicone foam (called Nimbus grip) that I really love. Lasts a LOT longer and you don't get the residue EPDM leaves. You do have to sand it every 6 months or so with some 80 grit sand paper to rough it up. But it will last years.

@@chadbennett Awesome! Thanks brother, big help. Much love, from Ohio

Send us a note at info@dark-monk.com

Send us an email at info@dark-monk.com for custom stuff.

@@DarkMonk will do, thanks!

Hey Ava. I am sorry, I am not sure I understand your question. Each segment is 4 ft. If you follow Ken Hill of FlowTricks he has been playing with this for a bit now and has some great content. We do owe him an upgrade as this was a prototype and he did find one issue.

It smack heads like a hammer. Got move like master Ken to dodge them strikes.

wait the reply is gone, anyways i never heard of him before, which is interesting considering that I saw he has 62K subscribers!

​@@Ava_The_Avatar I'm mostly known in the fire nunchuck circles! That's probably why! :)

We use an electric convection home oven. There is an art to getting the poly at just the right temp to form it but not to hot so it becomes wavy. This took a lot of trial and error and we even found it was really different depending on the oven you used. We did used thick sheets of Aluminum that we would let warm up for an hour to set the poly on. The first few always sucked though. Also the aluminum had to be very clean or it would stick.

I had a little "X" in my hand for a month or so at one point. Passing along the lessons learned the hard way.

I don't know and would very much like to know. I have a small forge I am hoping to finish this year and would love to be able to case with our drops. But to answer your question, I have no idea.

Science has not advanced that far yet. We will keep you updated though.

I have only heard of one method to weld 7075 AL and it was experimental being done by MIT I think. You basically can not weld 7075. Welding 6061 is usually done with Tig welding. There are a ton of youtube videos explaining that in detail. It also takes a lot of practice. So get behind the stick and make some beads (and have fun).

Nope. It is twice as strong as 6061. You can not form it like you can 6061, it will crack. But it takes almost twice the amount of force to bend it. It is 15% less strong than titanium. So completely different.