Video

Very impressive 👍

VERY GOOD VIDEO TY

Great video

I, too, bought a 6030 stuck in reverse. Even with just tri-flow, some heat, and time, it sprung back to life in 3-4 days, going through several phases (hard to move, screwdriver only, to move with my fingers, to slooowwwwly moving out of reverse by itself, to bouncing back). Give it time, folks, work it morning and evening. I finally got the carb cleaner today (B12 per recommendation) and it hasn't seemed to make any further improvement to the responsiveness. Thank you for the confidence builder, another vote for "It's really possible" and to emphasize give it TIME with even just the tri-flow!

Great video. Very well done. Thanks!

Well filmed, well narrated, very well done.

July 2024 Update: I performed this repair in late June 2020. The trunk latch started failing again in the last month, and once again I had to crawl in and open the hatch from inside the trunk by partially removing the plastic interior panel, and fishing my hand down into the hatch, so that I could pull on the latch actuation rod. I went back through the tests, including using the 2 components shown in the video as test pieces. What I found was that the metal contacts inside the tan plastic electrical connector on the driver's side of the hatch, had lost their spring tension, so the connector was dead, unless I wiggled it, or the wiring. I cut the wires off the connector (2 brown wires with black stripes) and connected them together permanently using 2 butt-splice connectors. Problem solved. The extremely poor design and build quality of these Beetles is shocking.

thanks for the video as soon as i touched that plug under the 3rd light the boot latch worked instantly 👍

Very helpful, thanks

Best repair video I've ever seen! Great job! Thank you so much!

Wonderful video! Todd is there any way I can get any reassemble information from you? Photos would be wonderful!

Tips for running and hiking in the Grand Canyon, if I may: Best times of year to hike and run: -DO NOT HIKE OR RUN IN THE GRAND CANYON IN JUNE AND JULY -The best months for hiking and running Rim To River and Rim-To-Rim are late April through the end of May, and mid-August through the end of October. -Use your training to determine how fast you can comfortably travel over extremely tough, steep, terrain, with all your gear, add 40% to that per mile time, and then you'll have a reasonable idea of how long it will take you to get to the very bottom of the Grand Canyon, where it is the most dangerous, due to the elevated temperatures. You can use this link at the Nation Weather Service Website, to view current, and predicted temps on the South Rim: forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lon=-112.14637756347658&lat=36.040476129837344 Click your cursor on the river area, just about the green box on the map (that this link shows) and that will give you current and predicted temps at the Colorado River and Phantom Ranch area. Click your cursor on the plateau at the other side of the map, to see North Rim temps. Do the math on your pace, and pick a start time for your hike that allows you to get to the bottom of the Canyon, BEFORE 7am. NEVER start a hike or a run late, because you will literally be hiking or running into the hottest part of the day, be trapped in the sweltering heat in the Gorge area of the canyon, and you risk death. IF, due to age, health, obesity, lack of fitness, lack of balance, inability to operate under an athletic work load at high altitude, bad feet/ankle/knee/hip joints you are not able to maintain a solid pace, whether walking, or running, stay out of the Canyon, during May through October. The 2 recent deaths (May and June 2024) in the Canyon were in the Gorge, alongside the Colorado River, on the River Trail, and the most recent one was an obese man in his 60's Nutrition and Hydration: -Avoid inflammatory foods (cashews and peanuts are extremely inflammatory and absolutely wreck your digestive system), and foods that contain weird ingredients like carnuba wax (jelly beans, gummies, blocks, etc.) which also wrecks your stomach. Dr. Gundry has a "Yes and No Food List" on google, so you can cruise through that, and significantly change your health, and also fuel better during an endurance event like hiking, backpacking, and running in the Grand Canyon. -Eat simple, easily digested foods, like you would normally eat (nothing new on race day, mentality). Peeled tangerines are heaven, and so is extremely ripe pineapple. Let a pineapple sit out on your counter until the leaves wilt and the body turns golden, and the inside, including the core, will be amazing. Acidic stuff like this on an endurance run is fantastic, and because it's acidic, your stomach isn't getting "food" that makes it want to ramp up it's acid level. Tangerines and pineapple, (look up their nutritional facts) are packed full of the kind of nutrients you need to be fueling with, including "Whole Vitamin C" which is really important. -Avoid anything with oils or grease because there's no way your stomach is going to attempt to digest that, so it's going to sit there like a brick, and destroy you. -Watch out for the contents of "bars" for the same reason as oils. They're packed full of inflammatory grain, and just become in indigestible brick. -Read the labels on your electrolyte mix and find out what's really in there, and what you're really getting. I use Liquid I.V. in all of their flavors that have sugar. Favorites are the lemon or lemon/lime. Their Lemon/Ginger "Energy Multiplier" flavor has macha green tea, and it's the go-to, for midway through when I'm getting pretty wrecked and need to relight the fires. To the first 21oz flask of the day, I add 1 vitamin B complex 100 pill, and 2 magnesium lysinate pills (Doctors Best Magnesium from Ama z0n) that I break in half. All of my subsequent fill ups get 2 mag pills broken in half. You can visit Dr. Carolyn Dean's excellent website and learn about the importance of magnesium. -GU Roctane every 45min or so, both with and without caffeine. -I carry a 5hr energy drink bottle as my back up plan Let's talk sun exposure for a moment: Ball caps and short sleeve or tank tops in the Canyon are an absolute recipe for disaster. If you look at how much of your head, face, neck, back of your head and neck, and arms are exposed to the high altitude (less atmosphere for protection from the UV) sun, you literally spend the day being microwaved by the sun. That's a day ender, right there. Full brim hat, like the Sunday Afternoons "Compass" hat (what my daughter and I wear) is what you want. Stiff brim that stays horizontal for maximum shade (as compared to a floppy "boonie" style hat) and allows maximum air flow around your face and neck, so you stay cooler than if you were wearing one of those hats with the curtain that hangs down like a tent and traps heat like a sauna. If you want to run in short sleeves, then wear white arm sleeves. The arm sleeves get sweaty, and then cool you really well, and the loose shirt short sleeves, act like air scoops for the shirt. A dry-fit fabric shirt is a must. A cotton shirt becomes a soaking swamp. I wear the Nike ProCombat with perforated back panel and underarm panels. Mercari/Poshmark/ebay are your friend for those. And a bonus; you don't need sun block, so your skin's pours are open and breathing, and it's one less thing to carry and deal with! Get your hair wet. That's a must. You also need to soak your shirt and hat. I body core temp creeps up on you in the Canyon, and one minute you're fine, and the next minute you're puking. It's extremely hard to turn that around once it hits. If you are hot enough to be dipping your head, you are too hot already, and should go soak in the creek for 15min or so. After that keep hair/hat/shirt wet for the rest of the day. There's a water spigot on the Colorado side of the trail, 200m before you get to the Black Bridge, if you're coming off, or heading to, the S. Kaibab Trail. There's another spigot about that same distance from the Silver Bridge. That's where to soak one last time, and fill up water if you're going up S. Kaibab or Bright Angel, or if you've just come down them. Lastly, a tip for running down S.Kaibab. If your fitness level and run speed are such that you can go 7mi without water, don't carry any. It makes a HUGE difference not to have that bouncing weight blowing up your quads and calves on the way down. Have a peeled tangerine or couple slices of ripe pineapple and a GU Roctane as you get past Skeleton, and you're good to go. When you exit Black Bridge, head over to that spigot that I just mentioned, have a drink, wet your hair, and finish that final mile into Phantom... where you can fill bottles for real. Drink one full bottle of electrolyte at Phantom, and you're tanked up and ready to roll.

5:44 thanks

Thank you thank you thank you. I couldn’t figure out how to re install the spring for the safety switch.

Like your style, all business no fooling around.

Great video thanks 😊

I have a 61 just like this that the previous owner wrecked the kill switch on. I got a new one off amazon but the old one was grounded to the case and there's only one wire. Do I just need to run a wire from the other terminal on the new one to somewhere on the case? I couldn't find any case grounded switches like the original for sale.

Thanks for the video and no nonsense explanation. Some twig went under my mower and dislodged the drivebelt. I was able to put it back on myself with this video

I have this exact mower and LOVE IT STILL!

Were did u get your replacement tank from im trying to restore my t25

Todd, excellent progress on the HTO. I was looking for a place to message you as I have joined the club (5 weeks Post) and you are an inspiration. Glad to see you back doing what you love with the ones you love.

Thanks for the help , only had the drive shaft slip out when bar got pinched but this saved the day

Can't believe the amount of crap getting past these air filters on these engines. I ended up putting some die-electric grease on the base of these filters to get a good seal. They are terrible on thier own.

Love my HRC216 - if you get time, and another HRC216 in for repair, can you go over any preventative maintenance items you would like to see done to extend life of the mower -

That was awesome!!

Should I turn off the gas when I am done mowing so gas does not sit in the carburetor?

Duct tape worked wrapped around the hand grip when I broke my throttle lock (operator presence level) on both my 395xp and 372xp chainsaws and couldn't figure out how to replace them. Don't ask how they broke...........

Part#? Thanks for the video

How much does a repair like this cost? I’m guessing it’s still cheaper than a new machine.

Nice video. I have one question. I picked up a used HRC 216. I took apart the rear drive wheels and cleaned everything . Everything looked good. Installed everything in the same order you did. My rear wheels click when rotated in one direction and lock when rotated the other. However, when I engage the drive handle, the bolt in the center of the rear wheel spins, but the mower doesn't move. What did I do wrong? Thanks

"Not too excited about how that wheel looks." Lmfao. Sorry, but that got me. You didn't seem thrilled about anything on this mower but that wheel topped it. 😂

I've never tried red loctite in these applications, thinking the red packs a stronger punch than the blue and needs to be removed by heating the parts. What's your experience if you had to remove that muffkin in a year?

Thanks so much for this well presented video. Just what i needed to get my Honda HRC mower running again. Top tip...after reassembly, remember to put the spark plug back on, otherwise the engine will never start. Don't ask how I know! 🥴 Engine then fired up first time like a champ and ran oh so smooth😊

Thanks for this video, my surgery is less than 4 weeks away.

Hello, I have the same mower but only the right wheel moves when I use it any any ideas why that would be? It works normal no issues with speed just the left doesn’t move.

Well done in making these videos. We find out that many homeowners just refused to pay for lawnmower repairs Or people looking to buy a used mowers want to insult & lowball to buy. My niece doesn't repairs nor sell used much lately.

Thank you for the videos 💚 Absolutely! The Blue duct tape clashes with the red-orange equipment - always use black.

Great video! The detail you put into spring placement saved me. Super helpful.

Do you have any advice on the shifter being intermittent? It is in a different place every time and had sheered the pin on the selector several times.

What is that tool you’re using to remove the screws?

There are so many heads to consider, is there a "best" one to buy as a replacement line head for the C-35?

What size is the belt of the driving belt?

Hi Todd, Would you go into more detail on the spark module you mentioned at around 3:12 on your video . . . is there a part # for the spark module? Thanks for your C-35 video!!!!!!!!! Fred

My camstack is broken, do you have any videos on replacing that? THANK-YOU for helping these older machines stay out of the waste stream!

If it’s a 4 stroke where does the oil go? I have a AHS 2510 which is slightly bigger than this with articulating head. Does it just take straight gas?

I have one of these. I think the previous owner messed with the throttle assembly so the throttle won't open on the carb no matter what setting the control is in. What part is supposed to push the throttle controller arm?

Awesome video, thank you so much for sharing. I've got an HRR2168VKA and I'm trying to locate a replacement carb. Mine is an automatic choke and I think this video will go a long way in helping me replace my carb.

thank you. do you know the part numbers for the blade engagement pieces (springs etc)?

LOL. Obviously, I never had to replace a driveshaft on my trimmers/brush cutters, and hopefully, I'll never have to. I'll keep my fingers crossed on my new Echos. I want to thank you again for posting a video on troubleshooting and repairing the Shindaiwa 242 with an ignition coil that has spark, but the timing is off. Your's the only video I've encountered where you addressed this issue. I've replaced the cataltic muffler on my C242 with an older Shindaiwa F230 muffler, tuned the carby with the smallD special tuning tool, and the 2011 model year unit screams. It has over 400 hours and going strong. This weekend alone it got overs 6 hours of use going through 3-feet high dusty dead grass in the Sierra Nevada foothills. I bought the new Echos b4 I ran into your your video repairing the 242, and haven't had to use them!

Excellent video, I always wondered what was involved in a cable drive shaft replacement. I noticed Echo switched over to 4-layer cables for most of their trimmer/brush cutter drive shafts. All my older units had the solid steel drive shaft. Question for you: Is the solid drive shaft considered a better design option over the cable design? I've never had any problems/issues with my solid drive shaft trimmers/brush cutters.