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I agree completely, seems like a bad idea not to have those stops put on in the factory. I'm in the process of making some as well as a better stand for the frame. Even started welding them up yesterday.

Quiero enterrar las semillas de malezas debajo de varios centímetros de tierra y el disco no llega lo suficientemente profundo

@@grasscreekfarmturtlelake1741 ok

No tan lejos de la frontera, en Wisconsin. Aproximadamente 150 km sur de Lago Superior.

I first heard about masonry heaters 30 years ago and wanted to build one ever since then. The concept/design is really old. The northern europeans/russians refined them, going back, I've been told at least several hundred years. Heating rocks with fire is about as basic as you can get.

The sand allows all the water to drain out and so there is no frost heave. Prior to putting a top layer of sand the excavators dug down 6' (the frost line here) and replaced all the material with a highly drainable mixture of sand and small stones. This is the process recommended by, among other professional organizations, the manufacturers of the bin, Sukup. Of course, you're perfectly free to build a foundation under your bin.

I build bins for a living and usually bin manufactures has recommendation on the pads for the size bin your putting up. Thanks for letting me know.@@grasscreekfarmturtlelake1741

It's a special form used by the crews that pour this type of bin foundations but I think you could make them yourself out of plywood and back it up with stakes.

Hola amigo, Su clima es perfecto por maiz, pero aqui en el norte de EEUU, tenemos un temporada a crecer cultivos mas corta. Pronto seria haber nieve, y cosechando maiz es muy dificil en estes condiciones. (Perdome por cualquiera erores, pero no usia google translate por mi nota, porque me hace falta practica escritar espanol) 😅

My (conventional) neighbors 90 day corn is at 17%. No idea why my 85 day won't dry down.

Thanks for the i.d.!

Yeah, I screwed this up. I wear earplugs while running the pto on this tractor because it has a bad door seal, so gets noisy in the cab. I forgot that anyone watching on video, unless I started yelling or got away from the tractor, wouldn't be able to hear. Sorry about that. Usually the director/producer of these videos can fix the noise levels in the editing/post production process 🤣

Hi, the short answer is yes. There are multiple profitable markets for the major crops - corn, beans, small grains - with harder to find, but still there, outlets for just about everything else. That said, there are significant challenges/risks. There are a lot more unknowns. I spend a lot more time farming than my conventional neighbors; it wouldn't be possible to do this part time. The flip side of that is that I can get paid to do this kind of work. Iowa State University has several Crop Enterprise Budgets for Organic Production, which will give you a good sense of the actual numbers - www.extension.iastate.edu/agdm/crops/html/a1-18.html .

I removed the cable clamps on the top end of the auger and then pulled the cable out of the two cylinder pulleys. After rebuilding the cylinder and bolting it back to the auger I re-threaded the cable and re-tensioned it using a come along.

@@grasscreekfarmturtlelake1741 so you just lowered the auger all the way down first. Did the cable have a lot of tension of it?

Not that much tension. It was a lot easier to take off than put back on. To get it off I just put the auger as low as it would go and there was enough slack in the wire to let me unbolt the 3 U clamps holding the top part of the cable in a loop. I took it off from that end because the end attached to the bottom of the cylinder had a hard kink in the cable where it was clamped and so wouldn't easily go through all the pulley grooves. @@justinbushbaum6207

Another thing to add, when I was putting it back together the technical support people at AGI/Westfield (866-467-7207) were really helpful. They've also got a pretty good CZcams page showing some details on the augers

@@grasscreekfarmturtlelake1741 thank you for the reply

Yes, I was pleasantly surprised when I saw how much nicer it was than the direct cut wheat. I appreciate all the videos you've put online, so maybe now is the time to ask a couple of questions of you if you don't mind. I'd like to put red clover in this field next year - mostly to suppress weeds - but only have rough ideas on how to get any revenue from it. I don't have animals, but my neighbor does a some custom haying and thought I could possibly make clover bales and then try to sell them, at least with the first cutting. I watched the video you made on how to get the clover dry before making bales, and thought I could do that. Secondly, I was wondering how difficult it would be to swath and then combine the clover for seed next fall and try to sell it. (Maybe to Albert Lea?). What specialty equipment would I need? I was thinking of drilling the clover seed in the next week or so along with some tillage radish using my 750 drill, although I might have to disc it first because there is a lot of foot tall lambsquarter/pigweed still in the field. My goal is to try and reduce the weed population ahead of the beans I'd plant in 2025. The idea would be I could have a corn - wheat - clover - bean 4 year rotation.

@@grasscreekfarmturtlelake1741 If you can produce quality seed, there will be a market. You would have needed to interseed the clover in the wheat, or in this case the same time as the wheat. Clover is a biennial. The second year is the seed year. It works great if you are after forage. Not sure fall seeding would work in your area. It doesn't work very well here. Clover hay is tricky, but doable. Why not do a CC. The legumes there are very forgiving! I don't fear weeds. If you concentrate on soil health, and have some luck with the weather, they aren't a problem. BTW, manure application brings a flush of weeds. If you would like to discuss, we could visit. Easier than typing ;)