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@@Michaelkayslay haha. They’re older minis with terrible instructions. I somewhat agree but there are worse ones!

@@no.6minis I glued my fingers about 344 times while building 15 GG :(

@Michaelkayslay oof!

Speedpaints do come out of the bottle richer and deeper colored. They’re meant to go over pure white primer.

Thanks for the feedback 👍🏻 These ones offs are fun to do!

@@thatwargaming5459 not at all thanks for pointing that out!

Definitely and thanks for that idea. I’m going to add paint lists to my future videos too. White primer Peachy Flesh Speedpaint Broadsword silver Metallic Speedpaint Hardened leather Speedpaint Sand golem Speedpaint Talos bronze metallic Speedpaint Tyrion navy Speedpaint Pallid bone Speedpaint Gravelord gray Speedpaint Glittering loot metallic Speedpaint Orc skin Speedpaint High lord blue Speedpaint Grim black Speedpaint Gun metal war paint Greedy gold war paint Matte white war paint Pure red war paint Daemonic yellow war paint Voidshield blue war paint Lava orange war paint Warlock purple war paint Dark tone wash

@@andreaambrosini9711 for slapchop? Most drybrushing is grainy by nature.

@@no.6minis yeah, even though I’ve never seen such grainy drybrush

@@bobdole8830 yeah I’m not a huge fan of monopose models either. Sure they look great but when they’re in big groups, the models look like copies of each other. That’s why I like Warlord Games Bolt Action minis. The heads, arms, accessories and weapons are all customizable. No two models will look the same.

@@RecklessFables holy white is a lot more gray I agree so a final drybrush is a great idea!

@@lastdracon yeah for sure. Just be sure to use enough magnetic tape. A long strip all across each track will give you crazy good grip that should be fine upside down. But with anything magnetic, hit it hard enough and they’re dislodge so watch for potholes!

@@edmundpreisser487 I was actually thinking about getting those so yeah that may happen soon!

@no.6minis sweet just bought my own set and have 0 skill so need your video help lol

@@edmundpreisser487 check this video out. Just got done with it. Hope it helps! czcams.com/video/vpEX3E15Jyk/video.htmlsi=SrNTQqs-rU7ai-1F

Yeah, it’s pretty cool. I’m glad it worked out for you as well!

@@Lysurgic you decoded it yes 😊

@@user-bg6vn9ck3r thank you! These are actually 28mm Perry Miniatures minis.

As for drying time, the only step that requires maybe 1 hour of drying is the primer. You don’t want to start painting until the primer is dry. But after that there’s almost no waiting time. Since I was working on 24-48 models at a time, once I finish one color on the last model, the first one I painted is already dry. So I just keep going. It’s one of the best things about batch painting. You don’t have to wait for each paint application to dry.

Thank you very much for your reply. I am gearing up to begin getting back into my 1/72 Airfix,Revell,and Italeri Napoleonics. I have never employed your approach but it is worth a try. Again fellow hobbyist thanks.

@@konradsen_6038 the printing?

If you mean the models, they're not 3D printed. They're from the Middle-Earth Strategy Battle Game :)

@@no.6minispainting

@@konradsen_6038 army painter paints are widely available. I use Wargames Delivered and Noble Knight Games online, and locally I buy from Golden Rhino Games. But many other vendors sell them too.

@@rogerhernandez4567 it was just white primer in this video. Or you can use simple matt white paint for the undercoat.

@@no.6minis ty!!!

Ooh good catch! I actually made a mistake and calculated it as a bow rake (1 extra damage per hit, so +3) vs a stern rake which this was (+4 damage). But it did end up being just one point difference so it wouldn’t have changed the result.

@@user-um1xo9ed1x yeah the tartans were so small that I had to make a judgment call on that. Red lines may have been too loud and red plus green lines would be too busy. So it was definitely a compromise.

@@senint I’ve seen both schemes and thought the desert tan one was a little more appealing. But yeah you can use an olive drab color as the main color if you prefer.

@@McClane4Ever. good pointers. I’m an AP fan but I like Vallejo too.

I think the general rule of thumb is spray/ airbrush one of the most prominent colors on the model. For these Highlanders I still feel that red is the one with the most surface area.

@@naroe2001 that would be on page 24 of the main rulebook, under “shooting at grappled ships”.

@@foozbear603 yeah grisaille has been around for awhile. Both this and slapchop can both be argued as grisaille methods. I do prefer this or even zenithal over slapchop.

The consistency in the video is about the thickest I’d go. You can make it slightly runnier and it’ll be fine too.

@@no.6minis thanks!!!

​@bigkabuto9748 I only use sprue goo for gap filling so I use it much runnier. When I make it too thick I just use tamiya airbrush cleaner (which is the same or very similar to their plastic cement but much cheaper) to top it off.

@@jjjjj4222 good tip! I bought some cleaner

Yeah that was my smallest bit. But you can definitely go smaller as long as the thread can be fed through.

Not sure if the plastic is a different kind? Mine were from games workshop plastic kits. Some plastics don’t melt in this glue

@@no.6minis Yeah, something was clearly up with the sprue I used. I just put more Warhammer sprue in the same bottle ten minutes ago (based on your video) and I can see it dissolving by the second. You get the cred for fixing my issue. Thanks!

Thank you, I really appreciate that! This black seas series has been a labor of love because I really do enjoy the game very much. It’s rewarding to share the whole hobby experience with others! Regarding your question, yes, it is definitely a matter of preference because you can paint with the masts either on or off, whichever works better for you. For me, I found it easy enough to work around the large spaces between the masts so I just painted all my ships fully assembled.

@@no.6minis Any plans to do videos on any of the smaller ships, like cutters, sloops, and schooners?

@@erichhemm2848 I actually did a few videos on a clipper and sloop of war. But I do have a box of schooners I’m about to work on.

It’s a fair question. I started BT back in 80’s and the succession war period was the entire storyline back then. It made a huge impression on me. It so harkens back to the simpler days where single heat sinks were the norm, ammo explosions were the main cause of death and powered armor didn’t exist.

@@no.6minis gotcha. As a new era player, I find it the simplest, which doesn't mean bad, but least interesting. So far my favorite era by far is Civil war. Have a few grognards around here who flame those of us who play anything past Clan Invasion, so have developed a bad taste in my mouth for Succession war enthusiasts.

@HammerFell- yeah gatekeeping and neckbearding is never cool in any hobby. I’ll say that when the clan invasion happened, it was new and exciting. And the storylines during that era were cool too, keeping things fresh, followed by the excellent FedCom Civil war era. But the coming of the clans did forever change what BT used to be.

@@spectra7gaming471 no this is the miniatures tabletop game by warlord games.

Yeah my follow up video redid slapchop to better results using three tones. But it’s just varying intensities of white drybrushing.

@@no.6minis Oh man, I just realized how old this video was. My apologies. I'll sub and check out your other videos to see what results you've had.

Same! Hardly any videos of this being done but I think it looks way better than slapchop.

Dry rust from army painter honestly works best when dry brushed on, at least in my experience.

Unfortunately it’s just axes in the kit.

@@no.6minis sounds like a job for my printer then lol

@@calibancommand that’s the best way!

@@no.6minis also I loved your channel

@@calibancommand thank you! It’s been a fun channel to run and I’m glad people find it helpful!

Fair point but my counterpoint is I usually batch paint around 10 or more models at a time. By the time I finish the 10th one the first one’s watch is dry and I’m ready to start painting.