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peterholzel
Registrace 7. 08. 2011
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The section involving Mallory and Irvine starts at 8:30. Vito Cetta filmed this video in 2003. If you like this video, you will probably like this one as well: czcams.com/video/I1ucBrk2sx0/video.html
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Why would he say that the rope burns found on Mallory were evidence that they didn't make it to the top. I don't see the connection.
I think they die t want to show the exact locations to the public as people will try to go there.
Camera lighter and smaller than I thought it would be
Absolutley incredible interview!!
Has anybody ever flown a new drone with a great camera up to check this slot?
I don’t know how he can jump to ‘they didn’t make it’ from rope burns around GM’s waist. From Odell’s position, he put them far further West. So from that location they were either returning from the summit or were returning short of the summit. Either way no conclusion can be deduced from ‘rope burns’.
if a foreign country did not return the camera, that is just wrong.
I don’t know why everyone thinks Mallory failed on the 2nd step. Mallory never gave ANY indication that the 2nd Step was climbable. There is NO proof they attempted it. He and Irvine went under the 2nd step and zig zagged up to the top of the THIRD Step, where Odell saw them, with just the snow slope above…heading to the top.
presentation sloppy and disorganized
LOTS OF ASSUMPTIONS AND SUPPOSITIONS THERE you are full of bs mate
This video is full of baseless assumptions, Odell said he saw them at the last but one step, thats not the 1st step. Irvine probably fell from the ice axe location and his body is far below Mallory's. The Xu Jing and Dorjee sighting's have never been corroborated by anyone else.
In fact, you sir, just like us who follow you and all the other experts on the subject, have no idea what happened and where and how far they were. 
IS it possible that Irvine disoriented fell onto the other face?
Few mention this but I’ve wondered same thing. It’s possible Chinese disposed of his body there, too.
Your information is logical. I hope an effort will result in another search effort.
Excellent presentation. I thought Odell was a scientist known for his accurate conservations. And Mallory was carrying a photo of his wife to leave on the summit. That was not in his procession.
Holzel and Salkeld's book is excellent, and Michael Tracy's YT clips are a good counter. I am inclined to accept they reached the summit. They had time and were seen at the foot of the final 3rd step "going strongly for the summit" by Odell at 12.50 p.m, some good distance beyond the area where the body was found so it is reasonable to accept they were returning to that altitude. Ruth Mallory's photo was not with other documents found on Mallory's body, and he had said he would leave it at the summit. They were probably descending in the dark. I accept that this is circumstantial evidence but it is evidence.
They didn't have time, it's well established that they were running late and is one of the strong points to suggest that they didn't make it. As far as Odell's account of having seen them and their location the only narrative that people repeat is the rosy one, the fact is throughout his life Odell kept changing and was vague about where he saw them, I don't think he saw them at all and believe that he made it up which explains that, I think he was afraid if they'd have gone back with yet another grim story about a failed attempt that didn't even get close along with even more death's that the people who fund those kinds of endeavors would have pulled the plug on further expeditions, those guy's had to compete for funding with people who wanted to fly the Atlantic solo nonstop, set altitude records in balloons and aircraft, find the sources of some of the greatest rivers in the world and go on archeological digs in Egypt and I think he was worried that the organizations like Royal Geographic Society and the other's that fund those expeditions wouldn't want to spend more money on another failed attempt, without making up having seen them the report to the people who funded all this would have been "Norton tried it one day and hit an impassable spot and turned back then several days later Mallory and Irvine left camp never to be seen again", that would have made what, two British attempts in a row in three years that failed and had death's? Yea, I think he believed if he went back saying that he saw Mallory and Irvine go up and over a place with no problem that Norton made the mistake of trying to go around and were motoring right along with success at their fingertips when the clouds covered them up and the only thing that possibly could have stopped them, a storm, unfortunately rose up and did, that story also leaves open the possibility that they did summit but were unfortunately caught in a storm and just didn't make it back down. Something that people never bring up since Mallory's body has been discovered is where's his pack and oxygen bottles? That probably solves the mystery of where the camera would be, everyone just assumes it's with Irvine because it wasn't found on Mallory but no one ever brings up that it could have been in his pack, which obviously blew off his back when he fell, he went vertical about 70 feet before hitting the slope he slid further down, when he hit at the bottom of that 70 foot drop the straps on his pack snapped at the same time his leg broke and it went tumbling down the mountain, and Mallory is who the Chinese climber saw, the one that told the Japanese climber, everyone keeps thinking he saw Irvine because of the very sleeping position this guy suggests he was supposedly found in with his hands together and under one side of his head, I don't think the Chinese guy meant he was literally in that position, he simply gestured that way because it's the universal sign language way of describing someone who looks like they're sleeping, he very well could have been talking about Mallory who easily could have appeared to him looking like he was in a common enough sleeping position that we've all been in at times, as far as Irvine's body I don't think he had control over his fall like Mallory did who was obviously digging in with his fingers while sliding down the slope where he was found, I think Irvine tumbled all the way down the mountain and he's buried under many feet of ice in the glacier at the bottom, he'll never be found.
The fact that they are dead means they probably made it, statistically, one does not turn around short of the summit to die on the descent.
Why does the rope thing makes him think that they didn't make it ? What is the connection ?
Yes, someone should go look, and I truly believe they made it- They possessed the hearts of lions and were that close- Truly, we are all guessing and will likely never know, so why not root for such underdogs with inferior equipment, yet superior resolve and will...? They were true Mavericks like few this world has ever scene-
Such a detaily observation , Thank you
I doubt they ever bothered trying the Second Step, especially considering Norton took the couloir route.
That oxygen system story is incredible. Could it be true?
on the way back at 12 50 , no thats ridiculous they fell in the dark , why was it dark , because odell saw them at the third step at 12 50 having climbed the norton route as Mallory said he would , and reached the top at about 4 o clock making it dark coming back in the yellow band
Chinese took it in '75, rumour is they found the camera but couldn't develop the film
I think Irvine fell first... I think he is very likely below mallorys final resting place....who knows for sure....the mountaineering mentality of if you ain't risking your waysting?......that's mere perspective...everything that's anything is a matter of perspective....therefore I'll sit back and watch from afar....the reason he hasn't been found is probably because he fell first and into a Glacier bottom.
So has anyone actually checked the spot
The ice Axe that the 1933 expedition found was not on the ridge. Secondly, the notion that they would stop to take pictures or climb the first step again for no logical reason is frankly absurd. If they were stopped at the second step they would have come down and not wasted time with sight seeing, it would have been over. If they had been stopped at the second step, it would have still been light outside and GM would have had his googles on instead of in his pocket.
My question is , how do we now mallory fell first...could it be posible Irvine fall around the great cavass..coulnt mallory been the one that jad to use his axe to cut the rope..from what i understand the rope around him had snapped or was cut close to mallorys body..please comment with opinions i love the mallory irvine mystery
Because of what the chinesse dud or didnt do we will never know..but ill.always believe they made the summit
Abracadabra my man !
Wow... Great interview!
Great storyteller, maybe too good. I am starting to wonder how much is true and how much is embellishment. He sure loves taking credit for things and seems to have a convenient excuse for why things don’t pan out
I would suggest that is rather unfavorable. Holzel is THE PERSON who sparked interest in the whole Mallory-Irvine problem in the 70s. His general thinking was very much along the right lines, and if the New Yorker (New York Times ?) ran away with his story, should be easily confirmed. Latest ideas in 23/24, suggest that Irvine's body is no longer on the mountain - wouldn't surprise me, the question being when was the body removed? As early as late 70s, or three decades later. Holzel is careless on some details. Makalu is the fifth highest mountain in the world, Everest, K2, Kanchenjunga, Lhotse, then Makalu. A question that has bugged me for many years is why three of the five highest peaks lie so close together geographically. And that too in the middle section of the Himalayas. K2 in the Karakoram, and Kanchenjunga almost at the eastern end - close to the two points where the Indian Plate made hard contact with the Asian mainland around 50 m.y. ago?
Also, why exactly would the fact that Mallory was found with a broken rope around his waist make one think that it is now overwhelmingly unlikely that they made the summit? How does that follow?
It is evidence of very little except a broken rope around his waist. Michael Tracey draws good conclusions on YT.
Is that a magic wand?
You were wrong, of course. They checked your spot, and there was nothing there, which few people have called you out on. You're *very* arrogant, declaring things and scantly reminding viewers that most of these ideas are 100% guesses. I remember you already did this a long time ago, claiming that Mallory went to the summit and sent Irvine back down. Whelp, that was wrong, too. You're too arrogant in your approach, sir, and I think this is the fatal flaw in your skills as a researcher. You believe you have the answer with 100% certainty, and that is bullshit, frankly. I respect your interest in the mystery, we have that in common, but who in the fuck are you to claim that they just stumbled around, took some half assed photos and fell down the mountain? I also heard you in another video claiming the Eastern front was "way worse" than the western during WWII, which is a typical narrative from someone who never fought in a war. Declaring your own opinions in an abrasive, self assured way, based on no physical evidence, is very off-putting. Doing so makes you sound like a bit of an asshole, really. I don't know how you can stand there with that kind of confidence and assert with that level of assuredness that Irvine landed in that precise rock slot. It's pretty absurd. What you're doing is called "guess work," yet you're declaring this information as if it were empirical. Also, since you've now been proven to be 100% wrong (of course), have you gone on any sort of apology tour, apologizing to the climbers whose lives your risked sending them off into some random, hard to reach rock slot because you spoke as if your baseless claim was fact? Fat chance. You likely questioned whether they checked the correct spot, or something like that. Try being a bit more humble in your approach. Use phrases like, "this is just my own theory, it's not based on any physical evidence," or, "this is just a bunch I have based on my understanding of the evidence and I could definitely be wrong, but..."
"He can't not be there" LOL
Nice rant. But saying that Holzel put lives at risk is just plain cuckoo.
Can hardly stand listening to this guy, essentially taking credit for the 1999 discovery. He's so full of shit, tickled that his "slot" didn't plan out. Hot air from a clear egomaniac.
Terrific!
Odell was renowned for his visual acuity and saw M&I going strong on the second step, before the cloud closed in and obscured his view through the telescope.
Maybe it was the 2nd step or maybe it was the first step. Nobody knows for sure and even Odell seemed confused where he saw them in later interviews.
Also there is a photo taken at 6pm on the day M&I made their summit bid, it shows clear skies and no plume streaming off the summit indicating low to no wind. If they had summited they would have been decending at that time, in good conditions.
ironically if Odel had found their bodies in 1929 and determined they did not summit, the whole affair would be almost forgotten but the mystery around their fate has made them iconic figures. They could not have done better short of coming back alive AND summited. I almost think that it's better for their fate to be shrouded in mystery than if they had returned alive and said "we couldn't make it to the top." High Up there in the thin air they probably couldn't think clearly, but lower in altitude remembering their families would make made them abort and their names would be unknown today.
Superb, award deserving video. I always wanted geographical analysis of mt Everest and the Mallory expedition which this is. Very happy to see this.
I think the Chinese found him and either burried him or pushed his body off the mt.
This whole assessment is wrong. They have now gone to his Irvine location and he is not there. Disregard anything he says.
Sadly Holzel didn’t get any of it right but he does get credit for sparking the topic.
Mr Holzel, since Mark has not found Irvine and since their drone expedition has not located Irvine or even Mallory again, do you think that both bodies have been removed? We went to Everest base camp 5 yrs ago, just prior to the climbing season, and virtually no one was at the base camp. This is on the Nepal side. Would it be possible to "remove" bodies off season unobserved? Also, the Chinese climbers Japanese partner said the body he discovered had a hole in his face (vague reference) you could fit two fingers in. So it seems very strange that both Irvine and Mallory have holes in their faces...Tom Pollard reported hole in Mallory's head. So if both bodies are different they both have holes in their heads? Also, If the rope between Irvine and Mallory had been broken, would Irvine have left his axe, especially since there appears to be now conflicting information as to the actual weather conditions observed. This stuff is making me a little crazy and is hard to keep straight...esp since I watched the BBC program about the 1999 find of George Mallory by Hahn, Anker et al. and that Anker found two other bodies in his search before Mallory, but according to Tom Pollard, as of 3 days ago, Anker did not find any other bodies other than Mallory. Lastly, the camera you show, I believe is at least in the right era, but confusingly, Howard Somervale's nephew pulls a camera out of his pocket,,,,a VPK Model B, and claims this is the type of camera everyone is looking for. Aye aye. Only a few months ago, I guess now Tom Pollard interviewed someone at Eastman Kodak, who clearly stated the VPK Model B was not available for sale. So how much of this story is truly screwed up then, is my question. My feeling is Irvine, if he is to be found, will coincidentally be found on or around the anniversary of the climb, no rock, no camera. Or the bodies, even Mallory's now, are gone....and who is responsible for this? Then I found myself wondering, "hell wonder if someone killed them?" Trotsky style? I don't know...I think you may not see this post as it is old but maybe some day we may know, who knows.
If you've just discovered this story and are craving more information, you should go here: czcams.com/video/Z7KyVKop3sc/video.html (5-part series) - then here: czcams.com/video/5RY9zRpQEf8/video.html and then here: czcams.com/video/8G0fNkk4g0A/video.html. Must-read books on the subject (all available on Audible.com) are (1) The Third Pole: Mystery, Obsession, and Death on Mount Everest (By Mark Synnott), (2) Into the Silence: The Great War, Mallory, and the Conquest of Everest (By Wade Davis) and (3) Climbing Everest: The Writings of George Mallory (By George Mallory). Last but not least, you should go here: czcams.com/play/PLAogaA2i6jZt2RfgXJmw-bo1z6E2nKxfY.html. Finally, you might also consider going here: czcams.com/users/TheHappinessQuotientvideos
Mallory was taking a medication that most likely impaired his vision and judgment.
Thank you for the video, and thank you for the space for comments. You are a real gentleman. Know-it-all Michael Tracy does not have space for comments because he apparently thinks that only his opinions matter. Thanks again!
If you read Odell's description of where he saw M&I he puts them 600 ft below the summit. The second step does not have a snow field that was crossed, as Odell describes. He knew Mallory had a turn around time of 4pm and stated they were able to make the summit. Mallory wrote he would not take the ridge as the steps were unclimbable. Why Holzel can't take what a trained observer saw and the statements of the climber himself, I don' understand. The rest of Holzel's opinion are just that, his opinion. He wasn't there, can't say Mallory got hit by his ice axe or anything else as fact. No wonder Synnott and Pollard found nothing in 2019.
I think Irvine is still alive wandering around up there looking for his ice axe.
Oh boy, this is the best explanation I have seen. Terrific video.
Fascinating to listen to this man. He's a great story-teller. Thanks for this video.