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@@danielwoehr2733 I learned from the best when it comes to on board cams 🫵💯

@@jackalopefpv1708 thank you 🙏 yeah it really does, and that’s in super view 🤣. Sometimes I think it’s a function of hyper smooth, when I actually have an FPV cam in there it doesn’t look like that. Also having the dash in view really trips me out, flying the quad it’s just air and no reference point so I’m never feeling the dives, but this 👀👀👀🤣🤣🤣🤣.

Yeah I was struggling with combining the 9:16 FPV footage with the 16:9 hat cam. This was the best solution I could think of.

Oh I agree, I can usually pitch down slightly and the increase in rpm gives me the feel I want. This being a relatively large stator and low KV the increase in response and drop in top end wasn’t a good trade off. If it wasn’t for ground clearance I’d have gone with a 14x4 and been happy, but I’ll probably go back to the 13x6

Yeah it is heavy, my neighbor has some Flex stuff, a cap I believe and it does fly amazing. I pounced on a good FB deal but I don’t think it’s worth the $429 or whatever horizon sells it for.

Thank you! I’m still learning the 3D side of flying, this thing still scares me a bit… not as easy as the profile foamies

The Pitts was def fragile, I agree the foam is thin and I hate linear servos but they’re are kind of a blast albeit an overpriced blast 🤣

I find the opposite, most of them are very durable because they're so light usually nothing happens in a crash. Just have to be sure to cut the throttle when going down.

That thing has a surprisingly good roll rate. 🤔🤣

Hope you doing mind being the face of the video 🫵🤣. It was, i wonder how many planes we could get up at one time 🤔

Indeed!

It as often as I used to, new job has me pretty busy. I try and make it out on Saturdays when the crew goes, other than that usually Tuesday during the day. Are you local SA?

Pretty sure he’d take a stock traxxas 🤣

Close to default pids, backed off D a bit if I remember correctly (FR frames aren’t the cleanest noise profile)

@@Finalmile_FPV i think its pretty good. Im sbout to build a aos ul 10 inch. Heard alot of positive feedback about it.

@@fpvkagge yeah I’m a fan of the AOS stuff, you can’t argue with the BB logs of those frames. Especially going past the 6”-7” having a clean stiff frame just makes life so much simpler 🤣. I ended up re building this with 2812s, fried an esc and it’s back in my closet for now

@@Finalmile_FPV yea ive fried alot esc over time. Considering single esc's ok my 10 inch frame.

I’m a huge fan of the 8” platform too, I think it’s the best of all worlds. If I’m doing something that requires more aggressive maneuvering (some chase work) I’ll go down to a higher KV 7” setup at the expense of flight time. What’s your experience on 9” stuff? I ran 9” props on my XL10 for a bit and liked it, I was seriously considering a merica 9” or similar for the higher cruising speed and endurance but if it’s not a huge difference from an 8” I won’t bother. 10” was too heavy and a huge pain to tune, motors to heavy and arms too long to go for an ultra light LR setup at that prop size in my opinion. I do really miss my FRH 6” heavy speedster on 2506 1850kv, something about the weight and deadcat made low fast flying and long sustained lines just magic over anything else I’ve ever flown. I need to order so 8” props so I’ll take a look at the 8060, using HQ 8x5 bi blades on my floss 8” right now after I exploded a few of the 8040 cinnelifter tri blades, that 2812 seemed to apply too much torque too quickly and they would shatter. So yeah, 8” on those 2812 between 1100-1300 kv on an ultralight frame, 6000-8000 mah 6s high quality lion (def no 18650) I think is the best option for LR in my experience, I need to get back to flying LR more often again.

@@Finalmile_FPV If you have problems tuning big quads, my only advice I can give you is to use really solid frames. I got the geprc pulsar 11 frame. Freakin heavy, but so solid, it just runs on stock betaflight. Also dont use too small and too high kv motors. A small motor with too high kv just struggles to spin the bigger props. Basically I built the pulsar 11 with 3215 motors and ran it on 11 and 10 inch props. It flys well. No issues. Only It's slow and inefficient. I had those 3215 motors custom made and tested on the bench. The results were the most efficient I've ever seen. 5kg of max thrust. But in real air testing the efficiency was really not good. Top speed was slow, compared to my other quads. I'm sure it can lift heavy loads. Also I could increase flight time alot, by adding 2kg of batteries instead of 800g like I prefer. So I tried 10" props on it. A little more flight time, but nothing significant. Next I built a 9" and tried several props. It was much faster than my pulsar build. Also much more efficient. After trying 9 inch props, I just put on 8" props. The funny thing is, it got a bit faster and more responsive. I tried 3110 motors and changed them to 2812 motors, mainly because I wanted a little more kv and the motors were cheap. For fast long flights, I tried 5" and 6". Six helps a little already for carrying larger batteries and catching dives better. But the magic starts at 7". My 7" is the one to beat. Those new gemfan 7050 are a gamechanger for me. So much more speed and freestyle'able too. But my 7" build has a short apex frame and is rather light for freestyle and doesn't fit big batteries and gopro. So that 9" frame with those 8060 props is my go to LR build right now. It still fits im my backpack without props. An other reason I disliked the 11" as well. So big to transport. Not for hiking in the mountains and going for a LR cruise. My 9" frame is an amax F9DC frame. Short wheelbase with 363mm for a 9". 8mm arms and super solid. Also works on stock betaflight. As much as UAVTECH says use 24khz, I tried it and 48khz just works better. It eliminated the jello. All my builds 7 inch and bigger are on 8S by the way. Basically just use 8S compatible electronics and motors with 200kv less than usual on 6s. I make and use 8s 21700 packs. Sometimes two parallel for long range on the 8 inch upwards. Bi blades are a pain. Just use tri blades if bi dont work nice.

@@chrisbee5481 I bet 8s really makes a difference spreading the load out on lion cells 💪, I can totally agree with the low KV big stator advice… for awhile I was chasing max efficiency trying to run over propped on large light frames and it just became an exercise in futility. Plus the more I ran lower KV on larger stators the more I understood the waste excess KV brings into the system PWM seems to vary by frame for me, tried running variable for a while with the new BLHeli firmware and had some mixed results, most of my freestyle builds run 48khz and I’ve even lowered my pidloop and gyro down to 4k 4k, especially on the bigger stuff since the motor and prop can respond that fast anyway it just ended up creating unnecessary noise and changes in motor rpm chasing a response the system could never mechanically achieve. I think my 7” remix is my favorite right now, it’s on a 5 year old flight controller so I think I’m going to tear down the 3 of them I have and rebuild with newer components, may grab some 03 air units for the flyability at low mbps, being able to fly at 2-4 mbps would be amazing compared to the 12-15 mbps Roblox picture I’m used to pushing the limits 😆

I biffed it awhile back and destroyed it lol. But I will say after 15-20 flights everything was holding up fine. Some noticeable heat in the front end after a serious throttling but nothing that would alarm me. Surprisingly not a lot of heat in the connectors or battery leads, less even than the stock eflite extra 300. Might buy another, it just flys so light compared to other 3D foamies in this class

I bet that thing is a blast!! I was probably running 25-30% more throttle in the F15 just to keep up with Alwin’s stock Stinger. You got videos of yours in action? I’ve come to love these over powered mid- small edfs, any suggestions for other similar stuff in this class?

@@Finalmile_FPV Speaking of power...how is the Eflite F-15 for power? Reason for asking is in RealFlight if seems just adequate. I've got other 50mm & 64mm EDF chucker's that are just adequate and it becomes a real game of energy management. My two current standbys are the 70mm Habu SS and 80mm AvantiS, but they require heavy 6S batteries. That's kind of why I Frankenstein'ed the Stinger...to make something that I couldn't buy. 😉 BTW...stay away from the SR-71. Great looking plane, but absolutely no fun to fly. 😔

@@gmorphan thanks for the heads up, I like the scale / exotic offerings so that and the twin 40mm F22 from motion were on my short list. lol To me it’s got more than enough, I can go from high alpha walking pace to almost vertical climb outs on full power (4s 2200). It’s quick wide open but not an absolute rocket. I’ll have to give it a fly in real flight and let you know how close it feels, but to me it’s got more than enough to get me out of any dumb decisions / oh shit moments. I got mine second hand so it was an easy choice, I’m not sure (as much as I like it) that it’s worth the $269 price new. I did do a few other videos with it, some slow / mixed flying that might give you a better idea of its power and responsiveness. It high alphas amazing and can fly circuits like that despite no rudder.

2200 4S on this boat is wayyyy too small. In general that low of a capacity will draw down too much under load to be useful. On a smaller boat running 4S you’d probably want to be 2500-3000 kv with the right prop to get a good top end, but with high KV comes a lot of waste through the high amperage it’s going to draw.

@@Finalmile_FPV thank you sir, the good answer

I wouldn’t advise it for an inexperienced pilot. A good high wing bush plane or trainer would be a better choice

Thanks and many Greetings from Germany@@Finalmile_FPV

You’re welcome, it was a blast. If you have an open area or dirt track to run that would be ideal, navigating at high speed gets super sketchy 🤣. Also a pan gimbal would be good for turning / drifting. Have since done some head tracking on a few planes but never had it working when I had the truck. Hope you enjoy the truck, it was a blast while I had it.

I ended up finding some on Amazon, oddly enough they are larger and don’t fit my twisted hobbies plane but do fit the eratix. Was able to do a few twist and make it work, like you I thought they would all be the same size

Thank you, fun plane fire sure. I just need to grow into it a little

Never had the distinction of serving but thank you for your service. RC for life is definitely me 👍

Really wanna put this in a decent size edf. Maybe the A10 since I’ve already beat it up pretty good

@@Finalmile_FPV I’m gonna be right behind you on this. Sold

lol thank you 🙏. The added weight of the 8” kind of made for some cyclical chasing with all that momentum. Think it’ll be a good rig. If we had hit I’m sure you woulda fared better than me lol

Yeah I don’t like how low the LVC is set from the factory, I suppose it prevents throttle cut under load but it makes it real easy to smoke a battery 🤣.

Yep, with 8” arms, cut pretty thick but still the frame has some noise.

I think he’s from an eflite 1.3m P51 fuselage I had crashed and then replaced. Pretty sure that’s where he came from, needed about 2-3 inches of foam underneath him to get the height right but it works. A lot of the eflite planes have their figure heads as a replacement part you can order, the extra 300 1.3 is another good option.

Lmao. Somehow the battery was still at 3.72 and I went waaaaayyyy over my timer. I guess high alpha is an efficient means of cruising

God tier throttle work!!!@@Finalmile_FPV

I think that’s a movie quality intro 🤣. Good times for sure

Thank you. Indeed it does, I buzzed you and Benny pretty good a few times 🤣

We had us some fun that day!

You can lower the Low voltage audio alert down to 3.3 v per cell or so and it won’t go off as frequently. I think the motor prop combo pulls a lot of amps for such a small 3s battery to take without sagging down into the warning zone. Once I flew it some more I just turned the voltage telemetry off and flew with only a timer, much quieter … but I’m so used to it it doesn’t bother me as much as it does those watching I think 🤔 🤣

Can’t say that I did. Almost looks like the prop exploded and caused that motor to go full bananas. They were those brittle gemfan cineprops so maybe. Also forgot I had swapped in a lower amperage esc so perhaps I had a spike, plenty of capacitance though so idk. lol. Back in the closet she goes for now

Yes and no, with safe and the rates dialed down it can be fairly tame. In the other hand, the flapperons are not beginner friendly (you really don’t need them too much though) and the controls can be very sensitive even on lower rates. I believe they re released the UMX turbo Timber, if that is now a 3S powerplant and you’re looking for a UMX class plane for your first go around that’s what I’d recommend. (My first electric rc plane when I got back into this hobby was the 2s UMX turbo Timber, I outgrew it pretty fast but it was a great starter)

@@Finalmile_FPV Perfect, thanks for the clarification, I think I'll go for the apprentice stol S, I already have some experience using cell phone simulators but it won't be the same with a controller in hand, thanks for the help

@@breinertorres5607 it is different once you have the transmitter. The real flight simulator is worth the money, I still use it and any spectrum TX can be used with it.

Thank you 🙏. Just glad to be flying again

www.amazon.com/Graphene-Connector-Batteries-Airplane-Quadcopter/dp/B082TRQW5V They’re still my favorite single battery setup. I did eventually puff two of them but that’s after running them harder than I ever should have for 20-25 runs.

@@Finalmile_FPV awesome thanks. How much run time are you getting ? Assuming your not full throttle for entire run. Just cruising around with small full throttle bursts.

@@zackhall8229 you know I’ve never really timed it, I also run mostly full throttle 🤣. The video I did running at the park under a little bridge with the tug boat was all one battery, that’s the first one I puffed so however long that was is your max 🤣

@@zackhall8229 okay, looks like about 15 mins of mostly hard running. That was with the LVC at 3.1v which is way too low and probably why I killed it. So I’d say 10 mins safe bet, LVC at 3.4 or if you have telemetry pulling in at 3.6 under load would be ideal

@@Finalmile_FPV that's still pretty good time actually for these boats.

I like spectrum equipment for fixed wing RC. As long as your flying line of sight it’s always worked well for me and is easy to configure. The new NX7 looks like and excellent value

@@Finalmile_FPV I found another radio, the Spektrum dx6e with 6 channels, I don't know if it works for me, is it cheaper?

@@Heroe_Sin_Patria yes the DX models will be cheaper as they are the last generation (prior to the NX). Still good radios especially if you can find one at a discounted price. It will accomplish most if not all that a NX transmitter will. That being said, 6 channels can get used up pretty quick when you are running aircraft with retracts, flaps, gyros and potentially separate aileron channels. If you can afford an 8 channel transmitter it will serve your needs much longer and allow you to set up more complex features going forward so I would advise going that route if at all possible even if it means a delay in purchasing a radio.