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Obrigado por seu comentário! Embora eu não tenha feito muitos vídeos sobre este projeto recentemente, ainda estou trabalhando na fresadora e estou perto de terminar outro vídeo sobre este projeto, mas meu tempo livre é limitado (desculpe pela tradução potencialmente ruim)

I found that with the spray can it does indeed take quite a few layers. When dipping the part I find that two cycles is sufficient most of the times (depending on material)

Thanks for your comment! That is in fact a valid concern. I will make some sort of cover for the new motor that I have bought for this project.

Heat (the right amount) and any type of oil, yes that's it😉

@@EngineerSteve That's interesting. I'd be worried about doing so with firearms parts as that may ruin the temper and present a safety issue.. but this is cool nonetheless.

@@MausTanker I would not advise doing it on vital gun parts for the concern that you mentioned. Cold bluing seems more suitable for that purpose, I would imagine.

@@EngineerSteve still very cool to know!

I have never used this process on rubber but I see no reason for it not to work.

Most likely not, it might not be that noticable but (line) boring after welding would be the best solution. That's outside my capacities though.

Thanks! I just finished the new spindle for this machine. The original spindle, as seen in the video, dated from 1939 and did not allow for any serious turning work.

Thanks, I am sure it will work but how far I can push it is a different question, we will find out in the end😉

Thanks! I think it's a reasonable way of building one without the need for complex metal working operations.

Thanks for your comment! My conclusion was the same, that's why I am building a new milling machine (video comming soon) that will incorporate all the viewer feedback and things I learned.

Thanks for your comment, have a great day!

The design of the spindle is not yet fininished but when it is I will surely make the files available!

@@EngineerSteve legend

Thanks for the input, I have a small lathe now so this setup will see no use anymore to me.

Thanks for your comment, I made the files available here: www.homemadetools.net/forum/3d-printed-mini-lathe-add-ons-98898 If you can not acces the files this way, please let me know.

I have not yet done any accuracy checks but that is something I want to do in the future, after all it's a cheap table.

This process is commonly referred to as'hot bluing' my best guess is that the metal oxidizes to a blue colour (by means of heating it) before being cooled down in oil, hence the name

I am no expert at bluing guns but I would apply cold blue in this situation to prevent heat distortion.

You are correct on every point you mentioned, I learned a lot by building/converting this machine (also through reading helpfull comments). I am now using that knowledge and experience for building a new milling machine, there already are a few videos on my channel about the new machine and many will follow!

Thank you! much appreciated

In that situation I would recommend using cold blue. I think it will work better for small spots, additionally you don't have to heat up the part at all.

One of my goals with the new machine I am building currently is to make it (semi) CNC, I am pretty sure it is possible but you just need to figure out some motor mounts and expect some backlash with the original leadscrews.

Thank you for the insight!

Thanks for your comment! I am still working on the exact procedure so I will get to this topic in the next video.

Thanks, I learned something new!

Depends on what you are planning to use them for, personally I like products with lower noise levels but cheaper alternatives will work as well (up to a lower standard of course)

The milling machine that I am building right now (to replace the one in this video) will indeed have a lot more mass to improve rigidity. However you do not need 2.5 hp, 1 hp is plenty for small machines.

Thanks for your comment!

The milling machine I am building right now has BT30 so I learned from my mistakes 😀

Yes, you are right about the colours and mild steel; although I do tend to have some colour in the majority of my mild steel welds unless the heat input into the part is high.

@@EngineerSteve great review of thr welder I think you convinced me to buy. Has the tig high frequency or is it scratch start

@@barrycooney7195 It has high frequency start, the only remark I have is that there is no digital display for your amps (which makes it easier to use consistent settings for certain thickness). For the price it really is an incredible machine, comparable with professional grade machines.

@@EngineerSteve I noticed the lack of a digital display but it’s a small compromise. Might treat myself in the new year. Thanks

@@barrycooney7195 You should take a look at the torch, I have bought a different torch after making this video because I didn't really like the one supplied with the machine. depending on preference of course

It is indeed easy to forget 🙂 Cheers anyway!

Thanks for your comment! This is exactly one of the problems I had. I am currently working on a new milling machine with a (bought) cast iron table.

It might be possible but on this apron it will likely contact the carriage handwheel or restrict your motion when operating the handwheel. Do you prefer the carriage to stop when you push down the handle?

Thanks for your comment! just remember that rigidity is key, that's why I am in the process of building a new mill. Although much more expensive, it should work much better. Good luck with your project!

@@EngineerSteve I had a Vintage Bridgeport in our R&D Lab at Pfizer huge cast metal frame Oh My God. My Model trains are not CT Scanners so I think we will be OK with pretty rigid. Thanks, Dennis

I have yet to try this process on stainless steel, of course the purpose of bluing is rust prevention, which is not that much of an concern on stainless. If you are aiming for discoloration you can surely change the color of stainless by just heating it.

Thanks! have a nice day

Thanks for your comments, videography is not my strongest skill but with feedback like this it will improve over time 🙂 I am too looking forward to the new bearing setup, I can't wait to use this awesome little machine to make some nice parts!

That's an interesting question, I actually don't know but I think I will give it a try myself with this process. I do know that cold bluing doesn't work on stainless. I will get back to you when I tried it.

@EngineerSteve so I got Horner old standby arriving tomorrow for $16, and I can do map, propane, or oxygen/acetylene to really just go doh. Im not fucking up my MS blues bands at $55. You'd think someone would of done this because they were rainbowing everything there from pipes to knives. Im only worried that it will rough up the finish, and I'll look like Chris Rock in new jack city with some jacked up lips. Dude, I look everywhere, and I found nothing. I even asked those guys and GCs at work today that know it all, but NIEN! I just be the first dude to think this because the only first credit to my name is Crown Royal apple with a scoop of vanilla ice cream in a low ball glass.

In regards to cold bluing, yes. You can make it darker in color by applying more layers of bluing; then once you’re done just rinse it with water, dry off, and let the metal soak in oil for about two hours. Hope this helps!

@@Warlock.MFG.Co. Exactly

A little bit of a darker shade might be possible with hot bluing when getting the part to a higher temperature, if you want to have a darker shade I would suggest cold bluing. I am not aware of hot bluing being effective on any material, other than steel/iron. Other metals might require chemical processes.

Good one! that will make it quicker

Thanks for you comment! if you want to try something else, you might want to try cold bluing as well, visually it gives similar (or even better) results without potential heat distortion.

Thank you

The temperature to which the part is heated, barely changes the structural strength of the part. The annealing temperature for steel is around 815 C (1500 F), where as hot bluing happens closer to 290 C (550 F). I hope this clears thing up, rust protecting properties are not that good indeed but hot bluing has its use cases. Have a nice day.

​@@EngineerSteve Hardening temp is a range depending on material of about 800°C-900°C However, temperatures as low as 250°C have an influence on the parts structure. That´s why parts have to be annealed in an oven after heat treatment which makes them hard and brittle, to simply gain their ductility back. As you can see hot bluing is in a range where the material structure is influenced, not as much as hardening does but still sufficient enough to change the part properties for certain applications. Martensitic structures within the steel already change at 150°C.

@@sierraecho884 True, I guess it depends on the application of the part, whether or not you want to risk disturbing the structure with heat.

@@EngineerSteve Exactl! Hot bluing parts should be a good idea right after you forge them, since you have to heat treat them anyway, so you can just dip em into some oil and later on anneal the part. Honestly this is the biggest disadvantage of steel which I hate, it´s super prone to corrosion unless you use Chrome in the alloy.

Hot bluing isn't done like this. It's done using boiling water and some real nasty chemicals.

Thanks for your comment! I am planning to compare the durability of cold and hot bluing to see what the difference is.

This is NOT bluing. Heating steel till it turns blue ruins the heat treatment and hardness of the steel. Proper steel bluing is done using a solution of potassium nitrate, sodium hydroxide, and boiling water.

​@@LBCAndrew Depending on the desired specification, the state of temper/hardness does not always matter. Nevertheless it is important to have some knowledge of how the steel might be affected.

Not necessarily, I chose for vegetable oil because it is cheap and accessible. It will work with other oil as well, I am unsure whether the results will be different or not.

@@EngineerSteve Can you blue a part over and over again to add layers of blueing? sorta like hot salt bluing?

Maybe I will but the problem is that there are some parts missing to make the original driveline work and there are no parts available. For me it was a choice between making this machine work again or leave it unusable.

I was also horrified by the removal of the supporting structures. I should perform a similar mini lathe motor modification. Now the transmission of the motor installed is counterproductive as in the video. The chunk rotation speed is far too much If I don't use back gears for a decrease speed. My intention is to add a reduction gear between the motor and the lathe. Example similar belt transmissions type is used many press drilling machines. But if you will be able to fulfill the intended purpose with a motor change, thumbs up! 😊 Perhaps the frequency converter could work on the decrease in chunk revolutions ?

A thin layer of oil will be contained within the surface after heating and oxidizing the part which provides some protection. I am planning on doing a video on testing cold blue vs this proces regarding rust protection.

Thanks for your comment! I guess there is a difference between hobby grade printers and professional printers, in the end you get what you pay for.

@@EngineerSteve the cheap units take a bit of time to get right but they will work when you understand their idiosyncrasies. Unless your printing day in/day out, hobby printers are the way to go. When is the next instalment of this project?

@@PiratePawly I have seen good results from hobby printers indeed so I can improve as well I asume. I am currently fitting all of the electronics, the next upload kind of depends on how easily I can get the screen up and running, I would say 2-3 weeks as I am working on other projects as well in my spare time.

Thanks! It will be challenging to get it working like I have in mind but if it works I dare to say that it is a unique way of controlling, compared to other projects on YT.