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Yes Always best practice to replace cup and cones as pairs

I used the press in our garage/shop to both remove and install the bearings on this one. You can also use an air hammer or a punch and hammer with the spindle held in a vice. They can be tight and it's important to drive evenly to keep the races / cups straight in the bores.

I just googled 1/4 compressor start valve and picked one that looked like what I had. Grainger, Amazon, eBay, likely a local industrial supply house if you have one. It is unclear to me if there are different "settings" or spring strengths or if all the valves are the same.

I am not sure that the issue is the gasket itself and not something with the case halves. The problem takes some time to occur and after repeated heating and cooling paired with vibrations, leaks begin.

1/4" npt thread

It is a pretty busy road and the wildlife does unfortunately find their way out there. We try to keep the brush mowed back off the road so drivers have a chance to see an animal ahead.

Cost will always depend on your shop rate. This one was really quick and I had it back on the mower within a couple of working hours. There was also the setup time for the sealer and we did a quick turnaround for the customer which is worth something too.

You bet it does. Pull out the little wire and you even have a flag so it's not lost.

I tend to stay away from sealers on carbs and intakes, but I've had pretty good success with Seal All and Motoseal. You are correct about the plastic though, it creeps or distorts over time and ends up causing a vacuum leak.

I suspect that I will never wear mine out. For the amount I plan to use it and the price I couldn't go wrong. If I end up using it enough to wear something out I'll consider upgrading then. So far, so good. Several projects, many cuts and still the original blade.

Remove the bolts and a few taps on the cover with a soft face mallet did the trick. Some covers you need to drive out the locating dowels, others can stay in. This one used hollow locators and they were fine to leave in.

Install with the seal lip and spring to the inside. The "pressure" will help hold the seal against the shaft and keep the grease inside.

This was ultra black permatex which I've had success with in the past. Eliminating the gasket could result in reduced crankshaft endplay so I'd use caution doing that. Permatex chief is my normal go to for gaskets. There are lots of products out there that would work just the same most likely.

I have a regular customer who has put them in each of his engines at about 500 hours. One engine in particular we have had apart 3 or 4 times at this point. We've tried sealers and different gasket combinations to no real long term success. He's trying to get it to a point where he can trade up to something different.

Clean it up and you should be set to go.

Sure thing, but it sounds like you may have already found your problem. Check for oil up higher than where you're seeing it as it may be running down.

Thanks for the tip, I'll check the guide to the blade for square. I might end up making a little wider guide to help for cutting pipe and tube.

Hope you got it sealed up.

Probably could be touched up but it was tossing chips pretty well.

Sounds like your saw is struggling it either needs a tuneup or the chain is dull something isn’t right you should run wide open through that tree as dry as it looks

​@@TheBabbsFamily7 The chain probably could use a touch up but keep in mind two things, I am running it one handed, and dry ash is pretty hard.

@@JB_Service_Co. I was just giving my input I know those 395s can run a 36” bar with ease just sounded like it was struggling, your brave running that saw with one hand kick back would be hell lol

@@TheBabbsFamily7 I have pulled a 32 without any trouble at all and have no doubt a 36 would do just as well. I stopped where I did because I was getting close to burying the tip. Much less risk of a kick when you're in the straight part of the bar. One handed is still not smart I admit.

You can buy them and they're definitely nicer than mine, but it worked.

@@JB_Service_Co. yeah that’s a little more advanced than I am haha

Maybe it doesn't matter in the relatively short life of these but there is not 0w compressor oil. I have read many people though just run any type of engine oil though.

I thought about changing the oil to something lighter but a compressor really should have non-detergent oil since there is not filtration. With the additional start valve I have not had any issues with 30wt compressor oil down into the low teens. I also try not to need to work on things when it is cold outside but of course that's when the tires are low too.

Ready to give mine to the dumps

@@mazamike put a ball valve in it. Let it get up to rpm then close it. Usually only happens that first time when cold

@@mazamike We tend to try to fix what we have at the farm and half the time that is how we acquired the equipment in the first place. This one was pretty straightforward and I think the extra valve was under $10.

Off hand, no I do not, but I very likely checked online at Jacks Small Engines at the time.

I have noticed the "double" latch, but have not really had an issue with it because I rarely lock the box.

The coupon was emailed to me as a "weekend sale" or something to that effect since I signed up for their rewards.

I do not remember what the depth was on this pass but I guarantee it was not 1/2”. The planer could certainly do it but the surface finish would suffer.

This engine seemed to like between 3100 and 3200. I run another at free speed of 3600 and the governor holds 3000 with a load.

A year later, if you are still looking I may be able to help. What do you need?

Thanks for the offer! But I got my motor all wrapped up over the summer. I think I needed the exhaust pipe pattern? I don't remember, but I must've got it eventually!