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Thank you 😁

Thank you! Much appreciated.

¼” and 3/16” are the only two I have used. I’m not too sure if there are other sizes.

@@Hathenbrucksteelworks oh. Could you make a comically large sheath for a comically small knife.

Hahaha. I don’t see why not.

Thank you. And yes, the copper in blades wont hurt anything. If anyone tells you that copper in a knife is going to kill you, tell them to contact a bio chemist and have a chat with them about it. 😁

@@Hathenbrucksteelworks haha I will. Thanks

@gabbagandalf8337 😁

I sure appreciate you! Thanks a ton!! I’ll definitely keep producing content. Right now I’m trying to get some knives done for Blade Show West, but I’ll have some stuff posted soon.

Hahaha. I feel mine are pretty ugly. Although, I do need them to point in the right direction when doing wa handles. Brazing is the way to go, in my opinion. It’s hard to MIG a tiny threaded rod to a bulky tang without burning through something.

@@Hathenbrucksteelworks you haven’t seen ugly tang, trust me…. lol And yea, mig can get a little crazy, definitely melted a few in the process

@shauntheknifeguy hahaha. Well, lucky for us, we cover them up with nice handles. 😂

@@Hathenbrucksteelworks exactly, that’s why I haven’t really cared. They’re the ugliest for me when I use my Damascus, I’ll forge the tang from the squished part we’re supposed to cut off in restacks. Weld flaws and all, I figured it’s lots of surface area for epoxy to grab. But… I think I might clean them up, certainly will make for a snugger fit up when slotting.

@shauntheknifeguy I’ve done that several times. Hahaha.

Muchas gracias. En mi opinión, la pátina es una de las mejores partes del acero al carbono. Mantengo el mío engrasado, pero tan pronto como cortes la comida ácida, se va a patinar. No estoy seguro de si hay alguna manera de mantenerlo brillante para siempre.

@@Hathenbrucksteelworks muchas gracias por tu atención y la información, si la patina queda linda tambien, es que me gusta el brillo también, bueno saludos💪 desde Uruguay

Thanks a ton for this comment. I appreciate you! I’ll eventually start selling it again, but I just haven’t made any in a few years. I’m running out of good colors, so it might be time to start up again.

@@Hathenbrucksteelworks Ah okay, thanks for the response. Keep up the great work!

Thank you! 😊

I truly appreciate you. Thank you!

Yeah. Essentially it’s the same as 26C3. Very similar to shirogami.

@@Hathenbrucksteelworks im not familar with that stell either lol so just put 125cr with 15n20 or add 1080 as well thanks mike

@Anderson-HandForged 26C3 is my go to for cutlery now. When I’m feeling really frisky, I go with Shirogami.

Hahaha. I love that. Thanks a million.

Well thank you! This material is called Kydex.

@@Hathenbrucksteelworks Thanks for your response

I am, yeah. I’ve had nothing but issues with the DRO. It works one day, then it doesn’t work the next. The mill itself works just fine for small work. If I was to do it over, I’d go with the Precision Matthews.

Wow! What a great compliment. Thank you!! Most everything is shot with my 24-70mm and I’m typically between 50 and 70mm. When I do welding shots or something I want to keep my camera safe from, I’ll throw on my 35-150mm or 150-500mm.

Hey thank you man, I've learned a ton from all of your content I can't stress enough. I've honestly watched many of them countless times, like learning to stabilize wood or even hand forging techniques, those videos are dope by the way lol

@Fbomb comments like these keep me going. Seriously, much appreciated.

Hahaha. Well I appreciate it. So, for San mai, I’m not sure if I have any amazing tips other than practice. It can be hard to keep the core right in the middle. When you’re forging it out, make sure to smash it evenly on both sides. Don’t assume that if you smash one side, the other side with thin down at the same rate, because for me, it never does. Also, when grinding the material, clean up the edge and spine then etch it so you can keep an eye on where the core is. That way you can grind down one side to push the core more toward the center. I guess I know what one of my next videos should be 😁

Thank you. The etching idea is a good one I’ll try that.

@rileyevans8477 you’re very welcome. I hope it helps

Thank you! It’s always nice knowing that some people enjoy the longer videos 😁

I’m not down in Utah county anymore, but if you’re ever in Logan… 😁

@@Hathenbrucksteelworks I went and followed you on Instagram. I'm sure an opportunity will come up some time.

I appreciate that. Any time you’re up here, message me and we can set up something.

Thank you. It actually worked really well. I’ll have my next video posted next week, which was my test run with this jig.

Thanks for that 😁

You’re very welcome. Thank you!

Thank you!!

Thank you!!

Hahaha. Always glad to help.

Much appreciated. Hope this helps a few people.

Well thank you 😁

I think you’re looking at the hot rolled price. I’m Not sure if you’ve ever had to clean up hot rolled steel, but it completely sucks. Also, the shipping on two 48” piece of steel is going to be significantly more than a small bundle.

Thank you, Andy!

Thank you! I wish CZcams allowed longer shorts. I think 60 seconds is way too short.

I always appreciate the comments. Thanks, and try not to work too hard. 😁

Thanks for that!

I appreciate this info. I recently got some 26C3 from Pop, because it’s a killer price there. The shipping was $27.28. I think because they’re short bundles, the shipping price becomes very reasonable.

There are a lot of options here and everyone has their own favorite supplier, but as far as NJSB goes, this is definitely the way to go for buying steel solely for Damascus. Thanks a ton, Andy.

There are a lot of options here and everyone has their own favorite supplier, but as far as NJSB goes, this is definitely the way to go for buying steel solely for Damascus. Thanks a ton, Andy.

You betcha. Thanks, Shaun.

@@Hathenbrucksteelworkswebsite says 6.5” length. That how you’re using them? Seems long for a good forge weld… but halving down to 3.25” seems short

@shauntheknifeguy does it really? I wonder if they changed them. I’ll have to measure the ones I got again, but I’m almost positive I got 6”.

The shipping on these was the cheapest I’ve ever seen from NJSB.

@@Hathenbrucksteelworks nice will have to look into it when the doctor says i am heathy enough to swing a hammer again as i went through major surgery in may.

Very helpful, thanks for doing the research@

@brysonalden5414 my pleasure. Thank you!!

@gundanium3126 oh that sucks! Hope you’re doing alright.

I couldn’t agree more. Thanks a ton for the kind words.

I’m loving this thing, so far. The funny thing is that I never really wanted a foot pedal with my 12 ton, but it seems appropriate for this one. I might have to do that.

Thank you!! 😊

Thank you! 😊

We’re on the same exact boat. After doing my last cu mai billets, I made the decision to get this.

I’ll be using it tomorrow, so here’s to hoping it’s everything I think it is. 😂

That’s good info. I’ve never used the foot treadle. I didn’t see anything like that on his site, so he probably doesn’t offer it.

That’s great to hear. I kinda wish I’d gone bigger, but I think I’ll be perfectly happy with the 25 ton.

I appreciate that. Thanks for the info.

It’s all good. I got an extra set of dies, so all in was $4900

@@Hathenbrucksteelworks man that’s not bad at all. I am still using my log splitter press. It works but eventually I will need to upgrade. Mine just isn’t square enough. Thanks for the video

@4wknives yeah, it’s a very fair price. Sure thing. I’ll probably do another video after I’ve put this thing through its paces.

Thank you.

I really appreciate you! Thanks a ton for this. I feel like it’s up to us to support our community as much as we possibly can. I’ve found a lot of great makers just by others sharing their accounts, so it’s my turn. I’m going to try and keep it going by sharing at least one per day. Thanks a million, Mark!

I love this comment. Yeah, the 12 ton is still great, and I don’t plan on selling mine. Coal Iron is definitely amazing to deal with, no doubt about it. I’ve chatted with Clark a few times, and to me he’s been pretty pleasant. When I get my induction forge, it’ll be through Coal Iron. I truly hope I didn’t come across as having any sort of ill will toward Coal Iron, because I have none. I just know that a lot of makers don’t have endless amounts of cash, so these sort of deal are worth making the community aware of. I’ll be forging some billets with this machine today, and I’m excited to put it to work. Again, thanks a ton for your insight!!

@Hathenbrucksteelworks definitely didn't come across as having ill will. I'm glad you bought the Clark cause there really isn't anything out there on those and I know you will make content around it and also be honest of it's short comings(if there are any). I was looking at his ribbon burners but he has no info or price available on his site. That will probably be my next major upgrade and I'd like another affordable option aside from The Apollo. Look forward to your next video and congrats on the upgrade

@TheMotownPhilly thank you. I’ll definitely be honest. I think it’s one reason why I couldn’t take free tools from people like Brodbeck and Ameribrade. I wouldn’t be able to take their tools and just tell everyone how amazing they are, I’d have to be honest and let people know that they have their flaws. I’m not sure how much his forges are, but I did get the Apollo, and I’m pretty happy with it. The gas usage from the ribbon burner is significantly less, which is a big to me.

@Hathenbrucksteelworks oh yea propane usage... I bought a atlas forge the xl and I use that when possible but all venturi burners go through it. I'm not super impressed with the atlas I woukd have been better off saving for an Apollo.

I can’t say I know anything about the Atlas, but I’d recommend the Apollo for sure.

Thank you!!😊

Thank you, Andy. I love bright colors, so I was happy when they requested this. 😁