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A cure for the rattle maybe in the the clutch linkage rod. I am going to make up new one from a 3/8" steel rod and two threaded ball joints. The joints that are typical in the steering links. As for the rear v pulley, i think about shortening the extension to get it more inline with the trans-axle pulley. What do you think?

I need the switch IC number

My clutch/brake pedal is stuck and will not disengage. Any ideas/tips to fix it?

It looks like it was designed to use two pelter coolers, but one got budgeted out.

I use brake cleaner instead of carb cleaner cuz carb cleaner will cause the bowl gasket to expand and won’t fit back properly

On mine, the green light doesn't come on. Do you know what could be wrong with it? I hear the fan but it doesn't cool.

PLEASE HELP! At minute 4 3:58 what is that part called ? i broke mine and i can’t find it Please help !

Hi, could you kindly show me where the small 1mm pin that you took with the pliers goes?? thanks very kind!

Hi, could you kindly show me where the small 1mm pin that you took with the pliers goes?? thanks very kind!

Mine doesn't turn on anymore and that white square wet thing isn't in the center it's on the mental grey thing that helps the heat escape It is the opposite of the fridge you're working on which it was but out of nowhere the light began blinking and it turns off no more green light also the nails the two nails that keep the mental thing in the center were rusty both nails

My fan hardly makes any noise. I can feel air but not sure about keeping it.

Yeah I have a craftsman t3200 with 318 hrs or so and doing the same thing… kind of an annoying noise for sure

Old School Fix! Sure the manufacturer would agree! New headset with AC/DC you’ll never hear the rattle!

Hey there, where does the other end of that hose from 9:02 lead to? Mine is disconnected on top of my gas tank and I’m not seeing anywhere it belongs

Easy fix. I used a rubber door stop (wedge) and duct taped it to the straight part of the brake pedal (just below the curve) It hits the metal above, just enough to stop the vibration from being transmitted.

wondering if you could respond to me . . . but, what is the carburetor number that you have ? i would like to purchase one so that i too can have better function of the auto choke . the one that i am working on is from another engine. and not the original one. the best way to remove the choke wire is to use your thumb and pointer finger. thumb on the white elbow for the dashpot, then by using the pointer finger behind the wire give a gentle tug, and it will be removed easily. the 4 elongated bolt studs can be removed with a small regular socket or a inverted torx bit ( star bit probably ) . i laughed at the same area that you did, because i did not see it either, because of the gasket. lol . amazing that your mower has a glow plug , for when to not press ( red ) , to ready to press to engage ( start to idle ) p.s. upon listening to you. . . lol , visualized seeing 2 people. . . . Nathan Fillion and Woody Harrelson . yes it sounded very much like him., but i'm sure that you have heard that already.

Want to add this is very useful video. I have three of the K66Y and I use this to prepare for opening one up to clean, change filters and inspect motor face to pump on one with 900 hours with no oil change.

If you see this a quick? for you; where the grate is on the backside would it be beneficial to add an export fan of the same size as intake, like I do on a computer case? That would seriously help reduce the heat.

I bought a Husqavarna with the K66. Using a camera while doing this is genius.

I work on electronics as a hobby, as far as I think running the fan constantly will seriously shorten product life I understand why it has to be done but I would say that I think even with a good fan that service life is about 6 months for the price of the mini fridge and environmental impact once it gets tossed it is not worth it

What is that pin called? I lost mine

My TS354XD is brand new and it has the same rattle. You must have been obsessed with that noise to go through all that to eliminate the rattle... Personally I wish you would have videoed how you got the body off the frame. I want to install a hitch with braces to the rear of the tractor and there seems to be no way to get a hand between the frame and the transmission... And there was the entire body off your tractor with everything exposed.... I'm sure I can figure it out but a video would have been great to watch before I dive into it. Maybe I'll video and post it when I tackle the job. 🤔

Thx Buddy for the information where the ‚Little Pin‘ have to be placed in👌💪👍 Found that one too and had no clue where it came from.

My Y18542 does it too..i think your spring fix was the real solution.. these rods are so loose because they did not provide any bushings in the system, I think thats where most of the rattle and play comes from. Your pulley solution will probably make your belt last forever, effectively. Most of us do not have machine shops or equipment to do what you did..soooo, i'm thinking trying to find plastic bushing to fit the rod end up front and maybe a rubber bump stop for the brake pedal arm to keep rear movement down to a minimum.

Gracias, pensaba comprar uno para un proyecto y con tu explicación me da mayores datos que los de la tienda. Por cierto no hablo tu idioma, pero el trauctor de google yla transcripción de tu audio es una maravilla. Saludo :)

Man this was so helpful. Mine had a bad soldering form a blow out due to dust from the barn getting in but this really helped.

Put silicone grease on pin to temporarily hold it in place.

That whole mechanism that he is holding in his hand at 4:06 time count. Is what I am looking for. The lever the rod the spring that has the rod going right through it. The short silver spring ( return spring) and the cube looking block that the rod goes through and the clip that’s at the end of the the rod lastly the hair pin that is securing the cube looking block. Apparently one the top side of that cube there is a nipple type boss that goes into the lever and gets hair pined or cotter pined in place. I need this entire assembly. Can anyone help me out here??

What kit did u use, please??

Oh Boy I just bought a YTH18542 in April or May of this Year… I’m having this issue but I’m almost certain there will be some sore of Warranty to cover this problem. Any input would be appreciated greatly as this is my first Ride on Mower

With less than 100hrs on my new John Deere E140 the K42 began slipping. It would not climb the slightest hill. So I stumbled across a guy who sold me a K66 kit. I LOVE my K66. Well, except at service time. Draining no problem, but, the refill is sure frustrating. I Fill both sides and wait. By & By the oil level will S L O W L Y go down & I'll have to add more. And wait. This time I measured what came out & measured what went back in. So far, with both sides full, It still took 1/2qt less than I took out. So I wait. After my K66 purchase, I learned that the K66 has an available locking diff option. I sure wish my supplier had offed that option to me. It sure would come in handy on my muddy & steep swampy property. I have been lusting, er, looking at the JOHN DEERE X580. It has the K72 which comes with a filter & instructions on how to change the oil regularly with easy access to the fill. BUT $9100USD is a big pill to swallow. BUT, then again, it is an X580 with hydraulics.

V belts can handle about a 2 degree misalignment between the V pulleys. To fix my rattles, I replaced the pulleys, put hose over the rods that touched the frame and deleted the rod from the belt tensioner to the brake pedal. Yes, the hydro is now always live, but that's how most manufacturers run them. Husky just overcomplicated it.

Thank You. I own the Husky 2754 and changing the drive belt and pulleys now. I will check the belt alignment before I put the mower deck back on.

That looks good and I am getting ready to put a shed on the back of my shop the same way but I have a friend that has some of that tin that I can buy cheap and I am going to go as wide as I can and it will probably go 16 ft out and I am going out to the outer edge of my shop roof which will probably be 20 ft wide and the shop is 16 x 18 ft so I got a lot of ideas from you and the only thing that was frustrating about your video was all that bumping and banging noise in it and I was using earbuds but it is ok.

I was changing my drive belt today. I didn't remember having noise issue when it was new, but found where I had put foam pipe insulation around 1 rod and 1 spring to stop vibrations.

OCPD much? Lol. Yeah I'm afflicted with it as well. If your going to do it do it right comes out my mouth a lot. Good vid.

Why not just install a rubber bump stop on the edge of the foot plate where the pedal passes next to it It doesn't have to be very thick, but add enough thickness to compensate for the pedal causing the rubber to eventually put a pressure indentation which is typical for steel on rubber bump stops anyways.. Then if you have to replace any of the pulleys you'll still have the bump stop to prevent any vibration which is inherent to the mechanics of the design. I do agree with the leveling blocks as well as the other modifications needed to get the belt level through all pulleys, because that's excessive wear on the belt, the several idler pulleys and the pulley on the transaxle itself, not too mention the bearings of the imput shaft of the transaxle itself. MTD, is the actual manufacturer of all the mowers that basically sold in America by most of the major brands, and a good many different brands sold regionally around the country that maybe only known in a small portion of the country, and another brand sold in another part. I forget exactly what every name is that's manufacturer by MTD. Husqvarna, craftsman, Poland,Troy bilt, yard man, MTD brand itself, cub cadet, some of john deere, list goes on. The ones that you buy at the big box stores are lower end units compared to the ones sold from dealers of the brand names like cub cadet commercial line, john deere is same way, as I remember reading that several other's are the same. That's way the big price difference, but then the quality is better somewhat too. But if you really look at the mowers you can see that they are all basically the same POS, and then go look at the places that strictly sale yard equipment for the professional commercial companies specializing in lawn maintenance. Totally different machines made to a much higher standard than the homeowner models. No different than appliances are made for the box store average everyday customers that don't have the type of money to afford the hi end varieties that are out there if you have the money to afford such niceties. Also on the long stretch that the belt travels, it really needs either another idler pulley, or maybe some type of Teflon bunks for it on either side along the way to remove the belt slack jumping back and forth slightly. As well as the belt guards should be a slippery Teflon pads to let the belts ride on instead of bare tin metal that the friction is going to wear the belts so-called Kevlar jacjet off due to friction heating up, and causing the seam where it overlaps itself and is probably glued together. Because I noticed that once you get one little fray in that jacket it's not but very short time, and the belt comes apart. I've found that if you can actually get a factory oem belt from aftermarket company they outlast anything that you can buy to replace locally. And the factory belts are just too expensive to afford them. But then they been screwing us for years on the spindles on the mower decks by putting grease fitting on them, but the bearings are sealed so total waste of time and grease.

Great job! I was thinking of freeing up the stuck pistons while on the truck too. Glad I saw this gonna give that a try. thanks.

do you have the spring width, length and the spring wire gauge size for the repair. i have a spring from a local store and installed it. but i think the spring pull is a little weak. the clutch pedal still pulses a little. I'm attempting to get the pedal to stop pulsing. it did stop the knocking. guess I'm somewhat a perfectionist.

So I need to buy new parts for it to work again? That sucks. If only I can return my fridge.

great video, helped me a lot. mine was just the loose break/clutch pedal and with your technique I was able to fix it with MTD spring 932-0611. we shall see how long it last!

Use 89 octane an yes sea foam as instructed

Having the same problem , my completely started fine but then started to surge. When I tried to start it , Gas was leaking from the muffler.

Hi do you still own this tractor? I was watching your video and it shows two lines along the inside of the frame. One is the gas line and other is a line above it connects to the air intake and goes around the back of the engine and down into the frame and goes somewhere. Do you know what this vacuum line is? Mine fell off and I have no idea where it actually goes or potentially connect to. Any help would be greatly appreciated . !!!!!!!!!! Thank you.. By the way Great Video !!

300 hrs and mine is so bad I thought the engine was getting ready to throw a rod. It was coming from this mess so now I have to figure out what’s causing it. Your rattle is mild compared to my mess.

The easiest fix of all is never shown in these videos: Just buy a new carburetor. I have a 2001 YardMan mower (for years just used as a tractor) that has many hundreds of hours on it, always with ethanol gas. When it began acting up I replaced the original carb with a knockoff that worked flawlessly for a decade. After fiddling with cleaning/rebuilding it a couple weeks ago - and having it run well for only a short time - I cut my losses and bought another carb. Flushed gas tank, new fuel lines and filter (all done before this second replacement carb) and all is well. Let’s face it, at this writing a new knockoff carb is just $30 or so. Fussing around with parts can run up half of that in no time. If your time isn’t valuable and you want to tear up an old carburetor, by all means do so. But a new carb is a 45-minute fix. For an extra $15 or $20? No brainer. Incidentally, paying the premium price for non-ethanol gas - assuming it solves any running issues - will over time cost more than a pile of carburetors.

How do I fix mine, the stupid switch melted or broke in the on position can’t switch it to off and it’s shorting out

Would spraying carburetor cleaner in it while running do any good?

Mine just started leaking water any idea how to fix that?