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Man, so I have this exact same issue on my 2018 JLU Sahara and suspect it’ll probably be a similar process but I don’t know. I’m skilled with small electronics, so do you think it’s possible to repair the old actuator? The part is something like $85 and the dealership quoted me almost $900 to fix it! lol

Awesome video. Helped me out big time

Great video, thank you! Worked perfectly for my 2018 jku. Also went along with ordering the part off Amazon for $50 worked perfectly fine

No help. Can't get it unplugged.

Great, how to video? Thank you for sharing. My driver side door on my 2017 jeep unlimited keeps locking on me. If im parked and key in the ignition, and i step out. The door would lock, but all the other doors are unlocked. Could this be the same problem and the fix for mine

Easily the best way to do this! Thank you!

I was going to say: skip the generic part since the amount of labor is moderate and early failure would be Pain in A## -- but the actual EOM part is even more now even at discounted rates than the $150 you cited. cheapest I can find for sure OEM shipped is $200. That makes $45 to$50 for generic compelling.

Thank you! Your video shows every single step I needed except for how to unclip the power switches from the cable housing. It's like a video about how to paint but stops before ipening the paint can!

You are a Wizard 👍

Awesome

Huh i must be the only one in the minority here, i use mine with no gasket and it works very well?

Thanks for the video. Chrysler designs the worst shit, their engineering logic makes zero sense.

How did you reprogram the new lock? Excellent video on a tough job.

Excellent video!! So simple and you just saved me hundreds of dollars by not taking it to the dealership or another mechanic shop. Thank you Sir!!!

I just wrapped the rim with a strip of packing tape to seal it.

Thank u very much. Great video!

Thank you

Good video with excellent explanation as you went through the process. Funny you mention leaving the rear passenger door unlocked unknowingly. That's exactly what happened to me. One day I wanted access to the same door and tried to open, it forgetting that I'd locked the jeep, and the door just opened! Could have been unlocked for months for all I knew. From time to time it's worth checking that all doors are actually locking.

absolutely brilliant, thank you 🙏

These instructions were spot on on my 17 Wrangler. Ordered the actuator via Amazon. Fit perfectly. Good as new now!

Thanks!

Thanks for showing the window release. I had to do the latch release, black plastic part attached to lock mechanism, on both rear doors as they are corroded and have gotten stuck rendering the doors in operable (will not open) a few times now. BTW the motor can stay there and that white foam can stay as you can pop the tabs from the back side.

Why use a plastic bag? Purchase some foam weather stripping about 1/4 inch wide 3/16 inch thick. Install it to the edge of the dustopper where it makes contact with the bucket. Works well

I bought a Bauer 6HP from Harbor freight. It sucks so hard that it collapses the bucket and breaks the already loose seal between th dust stopper and the bucket. The air rushing in sounds like a jet engine. Needless to say I'm not using the duststopper until I have time to work on a solution. Fixing the seal will make the bucket collapse even worse so i need to strengthen the bucket also.

Thanks for actually showing us step by step! Appreciated!

Buy yourself a tripod. Please.

Outstanding

Mine either came with a gasket or I added a simple rubber door gasket. I don't remember :( Either way, my unit has zero loss of suction at the bucket after putting a bag around it like you did. Thanks for the video. :)

How are there people so dumb they don’t do this right away lmao

Много слов!!!

I have a problem with my rear window not working

Outstanding

Great video thanks

Great and easy solution! It worked! Thank you!

Here is what I did. I bought two buckets the first bucket I cut off the bottom about an inch or two from the bottom. Then this same one I siliconed the Dust Stopper to the top. Then after it cured I just drop it into the second bucket. This does three things. It seals up the leak it makes emptying the bucket easier and also solves the issue of the bucket collapsing. Hope this helps everyone out.

How do you fix when these switches stop lighting up? Is it easy to do once I pop the fixture out?

Thank you for pointing out that this is unit is a waste of time and money the way it is sold. If I have to make a gasket, I would have made the whole cyclone unit myself and get better results.

Omg haha Thank u so much.. I’m watching this and thinking no not that simple ...yes yes it was that simple haha 🤣

The bucket below the Dustopper must have dead air. There must be zero air leakage through the device-to-bucket joint. Otherwise, dust separation efficiency will be degraded. Create a custom permanently-flexible, permanently-conformable gasket using cured silicone rubber until zero air leakage is proven. There must be no compromise on this. Insert the bucket down into one or two identical buckets to stiffen it and keep it from flexing or collapsing. Flexing of the bucket is unacceptable, because it allows pumping via flexing, which degrades dust separation efficiency. Ideally, the bucket should be as stiff as concrete. Similarly, the bucket below an Oneida Dust Deputy must have dead air. There must be zero air leakage through the device-to-lid joint and zero air leakage through the lid-to-bucket joint. Otherwise, dust separation efficiency will be degraded. There must be no compromise on these two joints. Use custom permanently-flexible, permanently-conformable gaskets, such as cured silicone rubber. Ideally, the bucket and lid should be as stiff as concrete, because any pumping via flexing degrades dust separation efficiency. Here is one way to make a custom cured silicone rubber gasket ... Cover the bucket's top rim with overlapping pieces of Saran Wrap (or equivalent very-thin kitchen plastic wrap). This plastic film will keep cured silicone rubber from sticking to the bucket's rim. Cured silicone rubber does not bond to Saran Wrap. Clean the lid of the Dustopper's seal groove with denatured alcohol so that cured silicone rubber will bond to it and form a gasket that stays in place, attached to the Dustopper. Squeeze sufficient uncured silicone rubber uniformly into the groove to ensure that a complete cured gasket will be formed. Snap the lid of the Dustopper onto the bucket on top of the very-thin Saran Wrap that is covering the bucket's top rim. The Saran Wrap can be removed after the silicone rubber is mostly cured, which will require more than a day. Curing must be completed after the Saran Wrap is removed. Patience is required for the curing in open air after the Saran Wrap is removed.

I believe the leak is by design. It reduces the suction so less dust goes into the shop vac. It also prevents the bucket from collapsing if the end is plugged/clogged. The problem is less dust is going into the shop vac because its not sucking up the dust...

Awesome 👍 thx

Thank you so much 🙏🏼

This just happened! Yours was the first video to pop up and it worked!! Thank you so much!!

That experiment seems pretty conclusive. Thanks. I have a dustopper and had good results for a couple of years, or I thought I did. However, my Vacumaster just failed, and I'm in the market for a new one. I might just go with a cyclone instead of the dustopper this time round.

I bought one a couple weeks ago and thought the no gasket thing was weird, then I tried it and realized how garbage the suction was. I got a gasket from the actual home depot lid (sold separately LOL) and heated it up with my heat gun to make it maleable and stuck it to some epoxy I put on the inside of the dustopper, seems to work better but I don't think it's perfect

Hey man I'm curious about your conclusion on this with it having been a considerable amount of time since you made this video. I've recently purchased a similar product. Although it's kinda sloppy, this one includes a gasket. That said, there is still a noticeable loss in suction. I contacted the company, they sent a replacement, and I've received it but have the same problem. At first, I thought it was just the way it was, and I went on with the motions of my days. This lack of awareness leads me to accept the unacceptable in so many ways and is something I'm trying to work on, so when I realized that I'd gone back to my homemade seperator with the brand new one just taking up space, I contacted them. (If mine wasn't such an eyesore, I'd be satisfied with it.) I'm not the type to hassle customer service, but it IS in fact a problem - one I'm trying to address myself before sending another email.

Thanks for confirming my suspicion. I added a gasket to mine around the rim, but it still leaks pretty bad. I may try your idea with the trash bag as a work around, otherwise I'll return the dust stopper as it loses way too much suction. I can't even pick up pin needles anymore with my shop vac, whereas before, I could suck up rocks pretty easily. Update: I did try adding a trash bag to my dust stopper + 5 gallon bucket - it now works really well. I removed the gasket I added as well. Immediately, the plastic bag contracts onto itself, confirming the massive vacuum leak. The dust collection system now is very powerful and should work fine for my needs.

Thanks !!!

Awesome buddy thank you

I applied about a 3/16 inch bead of clear silicone to the dustopsper and let it dry overnight. There are two notches where the latches on the dustopper clip onto the bucket. Ensure these are blocked with the silicone. Now when I put my hand over the suction hose, the lid of the dustopper collapses into the bucket. I believe there is next to no suction loss now. Dustopper really needs to include a rubber gasket with their system.