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True. And if they can't produce an AMOLED cycle computer with a reasonable run-time, then I'd go with a low res display as well. But Garmin's 51mm Epic Pro with an AMOLED display, for example, gets 30 hrs. of battery life even with full dual-band navigation. If they can get that kind of life on a smartwatch, they should certainly be able to get all-day battery life on a cycle computer.

I’ve never removed the PPF off an entire bike. Only small sections. How easily it comes off depends on how old and worn it is. I’ve never tried removing film over five years old, so I don’t know how well that goes. Newer film will generally release quite easily simply by pulling the film off the frame with your hands. If it’s difficult to remove, you can use a heat gun or hair dryer to heat up the PPF first, but just warm it up, don’t get it so hot that you risk damaging the paint. Newer PPF usually won’t leave behind adhesive residue, but if it does, there are adhesive removers on the market. I use Goo Gone as it’s readily available and I usually have it on hand. I’ve only once had issues removing a piece of PPF from a bike frame. The PPF had only been on for a day or two when I decided to pull it off. It came off the regular painted surface just fine, but when I pulled it off a painted decal, part of the decal paint came off with the PPF. They say that PPF can be safely removed off “properly cured painted surfaces.” In my case, I attribute the failure to the decal being poorly applied, not to the PPF. As long as your frame has a good quality painted surface, removal should be fine. Hope this helps. Cheers!

Thanks for those comments. It sounds like we had identical experiences. I didn’t mention it in my video (because you just reminded me of it), but my mount wasn’t holding my Garmin 1030 as tightly as it had previously leading up to the incident. I guess I could have prevented the quarter-turn mount from breaking if I just replaced the stem mount as a preventative measure. But with Garmin now going with an aluminum mount on the 1040, it’s a total non-issue. Thanks for watching!

Not yet!

@@bikesbymike@bikesbymike OK, I ordered a couple pairs, so I'll let you know my thoughts. 😀

@@anthonyg-can Please do! It's Silca, so it HAS to be good.

…57 cm

Which ones are you referring to?

@@bikesbymike you mention to push the 2 shifters on the right side of the bike but I don't see any lights light up any where. Where are they visible? i know about the light on the rear derailleur

You’re right about the cages sitting low. Really nice when space is so limited on the seat tube of mountain bikes.

You can message me here or email me at mikemillar@rogers.com

That email got kicked back.. Sure that's it? ​@@bikesbymike

@@BarryJHoffman Sorry about that. I just switched from Rogers to Bell as my internet provider, so this backup email was automatically deleted. Use this email... BikesbyMike.yt@gmail.com

I purchased it from Rack Attack in Canada. The price did go up after my purchase.

Thanks. Good advice. And I agree with your point about the rear calliper being a more difficult bleed. You caught me being lazy, as that's exactly why I didn't include it in my video. I wasn't up for the extra work involved and extra camera shots ;) I sometimes remove the rear calliper to place it in a more vertical line to the brake lever, but not always. It can trap air, but not always. I'll do it only if I mess up the original bleed. Plus, I've found the most significant limiting factor in getting non-squishy brakes at the rear is the length of the brake cable line, which can't be changed.

@@bikesbymike interesting point about rear brake squishiness relationship to cable length. Never thought of that but makes sense bc I’ve noticed that the rear brake lever can be more squishy than the right.

…yes, it’s faster than years ago, but certainly not immediate. Thanks for watching.

...you have a point. My most stressful cycling experiences have been transporting my bike, not riding it :)

Thanks! I have no charisma, so my only option is to share a lot of info and hope some find it useful 🤣. Good luck researching the 1040. The longer I use it, the more I like it. Cheers.

Interesting. I see he has a few articles and research papers on keto-adaptation and the benefits of a low-carb diet. And certainly, you see this among elite athletes that have peak fat oxidation rates at very high VO2 max levels. That’s a winning formula; someone that has great fat oxidation but is able to use carbs at super high intensities when it’s necessary. Being a non-researcher, I find it difficult to decipher the science on metabolic adaptations. The research paper that came out in January of this year and published in Nutrients certainly got a lot of press. It looked at whether restricting carbs during training would improve athletic performance. The researchers concluded that the high carb and low carb periodization groups improved equally well, with no difference between the two groups in terms of fat or carb oxidation rates at max lactate steady state. It would have been interesting if they also included a permanently low carb / keto group in their study.

Thanks for watching!

Hey, Norm. Thanks for watching. The main thing I wanted to get from the data was to show me unexpected spikes, or dips, in my glucose levels, which I thought may be indictors that I’m doing something wrong (i.e. not taking in the right fuel, not fuelling enough, fuelling too much, or not fuelling at the right time). So if I was getting frequent “above normal” spikes in my glucose while riding, maybe I was taking in the wrong type of carbs or too much carbs. If my glucose was dipping too low, I was probably fuelling too little and risked bonking. If my glucose peaked and then it’s crashing down, I’ve probably started a ride too soon after eating. The data didn’t really help me identify if I was taking in too little or not enough carbs during a ride. I kind of knew I was taking in enough to prevent bonking, but did’t know how topped up my glycogen stores were as that is not what the device is measuring. Yes, when I deliberately took in fewer carbs than I thought I needed, I could induce a bonk and confirmed that this zone is somewhere below 4.0 mmol/L. But by that time, I already felt the bonk and having a score to confirm it didn’t help me much. One of the concepts Supersapiens promotes, is that everyone has an “optimal” glucose range where they perform at their best. Another is to keep glucose levels flat and stable. Their app helps you track trends and identify this personalized performance zone. There is science to back up the idea that there are unhealthy and dangerous zones, but little, if any, scientific research to say if optimal performance zones exist or if flattening the curve is desirable. That’s a big gap in the science. An ER doctor can tell you that if your blood glucose level drops below around 3.5 mmol/L, you’ll likely pass out or worse. But for non-diabetics, it’s the performance zone that’s more interesting. If a “performance zone” does exist, it’s likely such a wide zone that one could probably stay within it just by doing simple things like fuelling often, but in smaller doses. I will say that the data did show me a few really big spikes while fuelling during a ride, which did remind me that I should take in carbs more regularly, but maybe in smaller doses. You’re dead-on about there being lots of factors in play that impact blood glucose levels. And that’s the complication that researchers have raised. Your liver will release glucose into the blood in simple anticipation of the work that expected to come, for example, irrespective of other factors. Supersapiens was plugging their app as a good tool to interpret the data, but I’m not so convinced. For example, their premise that spikes are bad is hotly contested. What seems to be more important (within reason) is how quickly glucose returns to baseline, not the magnitude of the spike.

...same here. I haven't had any issues, but if I lived somewhere with salty, humid air, I'd probably switch to brass.

The rack does not lock onto the crossbars. Whether you go with the Universal mount or the T-channel mount, the rack is connected to the crossbars with T-channel nuts, bolts and mounting plates. So, if a thief had the proper size Allen key, they could remove the bike rack from the crossbars, but it would take a lot of time and persistence.

You're right. It's only IF someone recognizes it as a camera that it will be a deterrent. And the Cycliq cameras aren't widely recognized, so that's unlikely to be the case. If looking for a device mainly to use as camera, something like the Insta360 would be a better option as it's big and looks like a camera.

…same as the rear derailleur. They run off the same, main Di2 battery.

@@bikesbymike thanks, is that battery stored in the seatpost?

@@kentlewan Correct. The Di2 batter is held inside the seatpost with the cable running inside the frame.

I considered the Pirelli P Zeros as well, but didn’t see or read anything that convinced me that they would be a top performing tire. They haven’t been all that well reviewed (although independent reviews are almost impossible to find these days), and their specs aren’t all that impressive. Not terribly light and not a great rolling resistance score (by Bicycle Rolling Resistance). They do appear to have a lot of puncture protection, though. The Vittoria Cross Pro is the one I would have chosen this year had I not gone with the GP5000s. Several people, including @noelpapelera1025 that posted a comment to my video, have said that Vittoria have now solved the issue with their tires being hard to bead, and that the Corsa Pro do mount easily. It’s a 320 TPI cotton-blend casing, so I expect it would have a better ride feel than the GP5000 S TRs. Puncture protection is a bit of a question mark for me. You make an interesting comment on the ENVE and SRAM tire pressure calculators. I didn’t know that. I think there may be something behind this quote I pulled from Silca’s web page explaining how their tire pressure calculator works: “We don't make wheels or tires so we aren't limited by our own products in the recommendations we provide. This is most likely why some other tire pressure calculators out there will have a different rating than we do.” This is just my own personal opinion, and I have no facts to back it up, but this is my thinking. ENVE and Zipp/SRAM are two of the three largest hookless rim manufacturers. With a 73 PSI limit for hookless road rims, they have a big incentive, from a marketing and safety perspective, to ensure riders are not running high air pressures in their road wheels that risks a blow out. For me as an example, I could not run the 80/82 PSI tire pressure that Silca considers to be optimal if I had Zipp hookless road wheels.

They are custom wheels I built myself. Light Bicycle Falcon Pro AR565s rims with DT Swiss 180 hubs. LB is direct-to-consumer and also sell complete wheelsets. I have a couple videos on those wheels.

Very nice! I don’t see many of those bikes on the road. You’ll enjoy the Di2.

Great to hear!

Thanks for watching. Seems like Dynaplugs have gotten a lot more popular in the last six months or so. Not sure what triggered it.

…about 4,000 to 5,000 km.

@@bikesbymike it's good enough.

I get less than the claimed 6.5 hour runtime. I only ever run it in solid / low mode to conserve battery life. With that setting, I get about 5 to 5.5 hours of use.

Part of it is just aesthetics, like you say. But Oakley does claim that different Prizm lenses perform differently, so some lenses are better suited to some sports than others. Oakley also says that their lens technology impacts visible colour, contrast and detail, and that these vary among their Prizm lines. That said, I think there are two things that impact how the lens will perform more than anything else and go well beyond aesthetics are simple marketing; the light transmission rating and whether the lens is polarized or not. Dark lenses won’t do well in dark lighting, and lenses that let in a lot of light won’t be great in bright sun. Polarized lenses work well on the water where you want to reduce glare, but can restrict your ability to see fine details. As for level of protection, all the Prizm lenses block 100% UVA & UVB rays, so they offer the same amount of protection.

…the Wahoo Kickr Bike. Thanks for watching.

Good to hear! True, that’s it’s packed with features. Having used it for over six months now, I am even more impressed with the improvements they’ve made, particularly to the UI. Plus, the ClimbPro data screen has become a must-have on my rides. Especially, when riding unfamiliar routes.

I did consider going with the Corsa Pro over the GP5000 S TR. Like you were saying yourself, other riders have also been commenting that this new version is much easier to mount. I knew it would be a fast rolling tire, but my concern was its wear-rate and how easily it would puncture. The Corsa Pros don't get a great puncture resistance score on the Bicycle Rolling Resistance website, and I had heard some reviewers complaining that they were a bit delicate. How would you rate these tires for puncture protection as compared to the Corsa Speeds? Thanks for your comments as it does throw another tire option into the mix. I may consider going back to Vittoria and trying the Corsa Pro TLR if I can just shake the bad experience I had with the Corsa Speeds :)

Nice to hear from a fellow GTA rider. You know about the (poor) quality of our roads, so that extra tire width does nicely dampen up the ride feel a bit.

Thanks, Anthony.

Good to know!

It is such an easier decision to go tubeless for mountain bike tires. A lot of the blame for road tubeless has to be put on many of the manufacturers of poor tubeless products. Tires and rims not built to tight tolerances. Valves that don't fit snug enough to be air tight. And, tubeless sealant makers. Any sealant that can be filled through a tubeless valve (which is most of the ones sold) is pretty much useless. Latex sealant without any additional particles won't plug anything larger than a pin hole. Silca Ultimate Tubeless Sealant is the only one I've tried that works consistently at tire pressures over 70 psi.

I agree Silca is pretty much the only sealant worth trying. Still see no advantages of tubeless over TPU Tubes for road bikes. TPU only losses 300 mW, which is so close to 0 in practical terms, and is lighter than the sealant as well.@@bikesbymike

I agree with you. My preference would be to have gone with an aluminum mount, like the excellent ones made by K-EDGE. Unfortunately, they don’t make one that allows a duo mount with a Garmin cycle computer and a Cycliq light. The only good thing with going with a 3D printed option like the plastic one I have, is that if the 1040 does take a big blow, it’s possible the mount will break before the 1040. Essentially, sacrificing the mount over damaging the more expensive cycle computer. The same concept applied to derailleur hangers.

Hah! Yes. I live near Avenue and Eglinton now, but was in Cabbagetown before that. Nice to come across a fellow Torontonian. Thanks for watching!

Nice! The wheels are rolling just as nice as when I built them up. I did re-tension the spokes after six months, but that's more because I'm in the habit of doing so rather them needed it. The rims have spun perfectly true the entire time. I can say that the Light Bicycle BKT / Black Tek treatment on the rims do make them very resistant to scratches and long wearing. Extremely durable. They have definitely held up better than the stock Hollowgram KNOT wheelset I previously used on my SystemSix.