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Only change one component at a time. That way you know what did or didnt work

All those flash in the pan was cause from NOT knowing how to load that pan.....and with what... The non spark is a problem, the gun all but those three times was throwing lots of sparks , makes me think, he touched the contact part with his 👍 and caused the problem... Back in 1980 , I bought my first black powder right, it was all American made and the imports from Italy out perform it , everyway but one ... Mine had a lot better trigger....or trigger's..... I gave it away to a Friend who wanted one to put over his fireplace....and replaced it with a import....😊

Great video! Very informative! I have a CVA double barrel.

Could anyone point me in the direction of a loading resource or any recommended target loads for an ardesa (traditions) match hawken, 1 in 20 twist, 32 inch barrel, .45. Really struggled to find info. It's my first muzzleloading rigle (had an uberti 1858 for a few years now) Appreciate any help. Thankyou

let me share this one too; these were the rifles that won the American revolutionary war and the war of 1812 as these rifles out performed the Brown Bess in accuracy, fire power, and range.

The wood carving is beauiful, true artistry!

Rifling, sights and a set trigger would have been seen as very unsportsman-like in a duel back then I would think. Almost seems more like murder than a duel. Id agree that this is more of a general utility belt pistol than a dueling pistol

Thank sir .

The singing was very beautiful, very nice cover of "Time in a Bottle"

That is a beautiful rifle.

It's always said that it takes longer to reload rifle then a musket. In my researches' a rifleman whom was prepared either for battle or shooting competition laid his accoutrements out to speed up his reloading. Ie; for example: a loading block and tied on to the strap of his possible bad (not the Havers sack ) his powder horn about mid chest 9opposite side). A powder measurer and pan primer tied to the possible bag also. With shot fired rifle is dropped to the butt stock usually to the foot. The barrel drops to the right arm (assuming a right handed shooter) crouch of the elbow. Powdered horn stopper open while reaching for the measurer . Pour the measure dump the powder down, then reaching for the loading block (per-patched ball in the block) pulling the ramrod out starting/ramming/seating the round down tight. pulling the firearm to a level forward pointing position and priming the pan raising the rifle and firing again. Repeat. Once learned and practiced you "can" do the 3 per min...I've proved to many a line officer in reenactments. Whom out of politeness said that it's not possible... All that being said. increasing the speed of charge going off and beating your own flinch. Put about a 3rd of powder of what you've been putting in your pan and keep it to the out side of the pan. So that you have a flash for the "flash" hole and not make it like a fuse hole type ignition .

Thank you for sharing your experience with load development... Thumbs up...

I strongly disagree as what a poorly produced lock can teach you the methods of immediate action that will serve you well when you have earned the knowledge to appreciate a well-made lock, learning to drive is great but maybe not in a Lamborghini. Within this video no attempt was made to clear the touch hole or brush the pan and frizzen.

Beautiful job modifying your Remington New Model. > enjoyed the video!

I did like the video.

I have a tc arms patriot pistols witch I very much like. I also have traditions pistol that I like. the patriot is the one I like best. Eather of these shoots well. Although the traditions is like a Chinese puzzle to take apart & clean.

I don't agree with a thing you've said I've never had a problem one from my pedersoli flint or percussion locks so I don't see where you're coming frome.

Dandy firelock, pard! I’ve an English trading musket that takes 20 balls to the pound.

Your informational video's are very well put together, this is the second one I have watched. I used to compete in MLAIC competitions with originals shotguns. My flintlock was a Mortimer and when I purchased it it would not work properly (which I could see and that's why I got it cheep)! The problem was it had been converted to percussion and then back again to flint. The problem was the position of the touch hole, it was TOO LOW and the ignition was like a fuse. I installed a "White Lightning" touch hole in the correct position and problem solved. Because I practised so much, I used a lot of powder, so I sieved my powder, then used the finer powder that fell out of the sieve as priming powder, but I also bought Swiss priming powder for competitions. This fine powder can be a problem if left in the main charge because is reduces the air around the powder kernels and slows the flash down. I was surprised you didn't mention roller frizzen’s! Yet again, your presentation on muzzle loading has to be about one of the best I have watched, really good and sound information. THANX.

What a great video. I have been shooting BP muzzle loading shogun over fifty years in competition and in hunting too. You have described virtually the same as me, but the only difference is I use an once and a quatre volume for volume. There is one thing I'd like you NOT to do and that is using the palm of your hand to push the ram rod down, either hold its side or use a range rod with a ball on the end. I was at a MLAIC world champs and saw a ram rod go through a man's hand because there was an ember still in the barrel and it went off. Great job with the video and happy hunting.

Built in Pennsylvania. but called a Kentucky rifle?

Where did you get the mandrel for the paper cartridge?

my problem with this video is the feller speaking goes straight into telling us we need a high dollar custom rifle then cuts to video a flintlock having issues flashes in the pan can be caused caused by to much powder or to litttle powder the f size granules hang fires can be caused by a dull flint the case hardening on striker area wearing through(forgot the proper name) sure you can buy a custom rifle and it may be marginally better but its eventually going to have all the same issues the cheaper rifles have that being said if i could justfy thousands spent on a rifle i certainly would have several rifles but alas im poor and my rifles both modern center fire and percussion are for hunting i didnt buy a flintlock because of the reliabilty issues that come along with the flinlock type of ignition ill close this video by saying when someone is bashing a mass produced product in favor of low volume custom product you can expect somewhere along the line the person speaking is making money off the volume product i dont say this in a mean spirited way i say this because in my lifetime of 44 years so far ive experienced this in several consumer areas twice as an outsider looking in and once as victim lastly ill say this do your homework before purchasing

With people in England, still do it I love to have a Flint walk made by the British did they do we did good do good work or from the colonial war

Great video!

Looks like you are in a well lit cabin. I enjoy muzzle loaders and black powder arms, mainly of the civil war and old west periods. However, my employment keeps me away from home to enjoy them. I have an older repro 1766 Charleville musket, that I had shortened to 30" barrel carbine length and a 1777 Charleville pistol, both in .69 cal. I am looking forward to trying them out, whenever I return home.

Thank you for the great information!

Very Nice Video. Thanks for showing me how to load paper cartridges. I'll be gearing up to do that for myself.

I was at the range one day and watched a guy shooting a flintlock. Every shot went off. So, I approached him and asked what he had for a lock. "Siler" was his response. He asked me if I'd like to shoot it. "Sure," I said. So, I took an offhand shot at a steel plate 100 yards away. Dead center. Since then, I've had two TVM flintlocks built with Siler locks. Unfortunately, I haven't been to the range yet, but I'm confident those locks will work.

Went through a lot of cheap ones in the late 70s and you are so right .

I have flintlock rifles but not a shotgun. Are you familiar with a flintlock shotgun? I would like to have one of those and not worry about finding caps

Im wondering if a Kibler kit usually performs consistently.

What imported locks are you speaking of Itallian, Spanish, or other, but which locks?

This guy perseverates on the obvious, he could have said everything in three to four minutes 🤨

The best flint lock is the one that Jim Kibler makes from a process that is perfect you can’t beat it . The locks are trouble free and just as quick as a percussion lock. His kits are not cheap if you want a easy kit to build yourself and have a top notch flintlock you will be very happy

THIS rifle should have been the American National Symbol---not some dirty bird......

great video. I have just purchased my first Muzzle loader. A .40 Lancaster style flintlock so thanks for the advice. cheers and gidday from Australia

I agree that a flintlock is a much more complex mechanism than a percussion, and also that a cheap built flintlocks tend to misfunction. But "imported" ?? ... As if american gunmakers where the only who can manufacture well function flintlocks. Just want to mention Pedersoli (Italy), a renowned big manufacturer of fine muzzle loaders - and Tilo Tedinski (Germany) who makes probably the world's finest muzzle loaders at this time.

Will it still load round balls?

Boa tarde

I think this is pure American snobbery. I use an Investarms 50 cal. Hawken . I usually shoot thirty rounds at a session. I might get one maybe two failures. The flint is probably the most critical part. I have enjoyed many hours shooting . This would have put me off trying a flintlock . My rifle cost £380.

Looks like he’s using pyrodex!

Will I need to make these modifications to be able to shoot conical bullets out of my Uberti 1858 Remington Army?

Ask for construction paper.

Guns made in the last decade or so are generally better than they were back 30 years ago. Now it's more like if the stars are aligned up wrong you get a bad one. Moat are pretty good. I do think that the first muzzleloader should be a percussion model. Flinters are for the more advanced shooter. Not to say that problems can't be figured out, it's just that percussion generally have fewer problems.

Thanks for the advice not greasy Esther,

Very good video!

ein sehr schönes Gewehr

I love the shape of the Kentucky rifle, it's very thin and you can easily tell the difference between thid and other muskets of the time. I'd honestly rather have this than any "tactical" guns that're so popular these days

Thanks for all the info. I didn’t realize all the combinations of wads to assist in patterning. This helps a lot.