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"overpriced" tools are for specific uses. If you play only with 3d prints, screwing them together and do nothing else, than this is "overpriced" only for you and for better control as you said is to use manual to not damage the plastic thread, for someone whos dealing with electronics, more tough stuff, more precise, the time depends how much money they will earn then "overpriced" tool seems to be normal. ES15S is No.1 Choice today. You pay more, but it lasts longer and works much better after time

That was a fantastic video! Thanks for adding some rigor to the field! I would be interested to see the average heating power vs flow rate. The 100 W spec for the heater is the maximum power when on 100% of the time (btw I've found that the resistance of heating cartridges can vary quite a bit, so 100 W may not even be the maximum power). Did you notice any temperature sag at high flow rates? If so, then a higher power heater will help as you've likely hit the maximum power for that resistance and output voltage of your power supply. If there is no temperature sag at high flow rates with a 50 W heater, then switching to a 100 W heater will likely not have much of an effect as the 50 W heater was not being used at 50 W to begin with. This can be used to determine if the bottleneck is the thermal conductivity between the hotend-nozzle system and filament, the power of the heater, or the extrusion force of the extruder-filament combination. Keep up the great work!

:P

I bought this printer from my birthday money as my first starter printer, and I’m very satisfied. I recommend using cura 5.7.2 instead of the elegoo cura, because you will get way more options in adhesion.

@17:30 im not able to get any response from the pi when i type in: "ls /dev/serial/by-id/* " it gives me a response of ls: cannot access '/dev/serial/by-id/* : No such file or directory" Does anyone have a fix for this?

Would this help for filament specific tuning? My pla prints perfect but when I swap to CFnylon the same file doesn’t print the items accurate enough that fit together, like the pla does. Is this what I’d use to tune the filament settings?

:O

Yes! Now the conspiracy theorists can print their hats instead of rolling up foil!

Забавно, в России 19-ый номер продаётся с кейсом

Do you by any chance have any video on how to set up and execute the printing of the multicolor parts because I'm at a loss (Using Orca slizer with an Prusa MK4) (and I really want that nice two tone look) (Just ordered the VLMP 2 HW kit)

You can definitely print ABS on it. You'd struggle to find a workable nylon, but yes to ABS.

Great tutorial! I tried doing the Kiauh + Fluidd method, I followed carefully every step. Once I install Fluidd, I cannot access the web interface using the IP address. I tried different things including rebooting the RPi, restarting fluidd, restarting moonraker. Still a blank page... Any ideas to fix it?

i dissemble my 3dprint as in video, where is assemble video

The only problem is when you have multiple running at the same time they will all be shaking or vibrating at different frequencies and interfering with each other. Need some isolation feet at the least

Great test! Battery life would be a great addition though. Just leave them in a drawer and check in on them a few times a week or something. 😅

Lol, it's for spooky hole punchers

i have the same cheap screwdriver and it broke after a month of use

next topic for a video: VOC

waste of time, whats the purpose of slilly brands names?

Man, calipers has the most creative brand names I’ve ever heard. My eyes are fine is a classic lol 😂

I really like the "carbon fiber" one (or a similar model) for my woodshop apron. Its good enough for wood and I dont midn if i drop it. I take better care of my steel ones for when i do anything really precise.

I have a dial caliper for daily use where I do not need really precise measurements and a digital caliper for precise measurements or switching between Imperial and Metric. A big unknown with digital calipers is how long the battery lasts. My caliper has a decent battery life. I gave away some inexpensive digital calipers since the battery life was awful. Thanks for the testing review. Very interesting and information.

😊 reverse your video to see where the screws were

I have found some of the cheaper ones will drain your battery while they are off. Something to keep in mind. Thanks for sharing!

Thumbs up for the Prusa mini This is some good content man

I just wish you had done 2 different videos and not merged them. It got confusing for us beginners.

I bought the Sequre on 3 years ago, it worked for 5 minutes be for it suddenly shorted out. Bought it from Bangood, tay wanted picture and video, explanation++ so i gave up and was out 85$.

Did you test them for battery life? Because one thing I've noticed with all the ones I've ever bought is that the battery will drain when not in use... to the point where I pull out the battery every time and tape it to the device because of how frustrating it is. I would absolutely pay extra for a rechargeable one but I can't see to find any!

In January 2020, I went to the local hardware store and bought a couple of things for making furniture at home. In my shopping cart was also a digital caliper with its nice carrying case. I bought it for 20,-€ and used it a couple of times during the builds which ended somewhere in the summer. In December 2020 I picked them up again to try and do something else, battery is dead... I replaced the battery and used them. In summer 2021, same thing again, out of the box, battery dead. I replaced the battery try to use them and during use, they turn off randomly. After my lunch break, I come back the screen of the calipers was on... I disassemble the digital part of the calipers to find that the button for on/off has a faulty contact and keeps pressing itself when shocked. I now have calipers that are unusable without battery and drains the battery on its own when in the carrying case... So for my 30th b-day I asked my dad for some genuine Mitutoyo with a dial to have extra precise fully mechanical calipers. I am still annoyed at my purchase.

regarding sliding smoothness, this can be adjusted with a small flathead screwdriver on the 2 grub screws on the top edge (on most of these)

Please clarify that the "mitutoyo" you are testing is fake. For the real one you would have to pay 10x

Me with my $350 mitutoyo calipers 😅

I am looking for plastic one actually. Making models that use magnets so yhea kinda useful for that.

This was fun to watch! Can you do the same for micrometers? Might need some guage blocks for testing!

7:37 bruh did you turn the screw on top?

I have a pair of Mahr calipers that were gifted to me and they sell online for over $100. I mean they work great but it’s crazy to see how expensive they are compared to the ones in this video.

How you dare to cal cnc kitchen a small chanel when you are smaller

I bought the 200mm SHAHE one and it's fantastic.

I'd love a quick follow up in, I don't know, one year of distance, to know if there are some who eat up batteries even when not used

Neat video. I recently got a cheap plastic caliper that's great for quickly measuring without needing a case or batteries. It sits in a cup on my desk with pens & pencils. Even if its accuracy is only 0.3mm, it's still very useful for everyday measurements.

You missed a metric on the digital ones that vonstantly buges me about cheap digital calipers. Most if them seem to drain the battery when just sitting doing nothing. So when I do want to use them they are dead and the battery search begins. As such I have switched almost entirely verneer and actually gotten quite quick reading at reading them. (Still not as fast as digital but certainly faster than the search for batteries or running to the store for them. Now I only use digital for when I know I'm going to take several mesurements that the convenice of automatic math via zeroing will be nice.

Why did you do the auto bed level without leveling the corners first manually?

Totally disagree. With exactly the same cheap model that you presented, I was able to screw in/unscrew about 100-110 screws. Then completely dead. When you open and close 10 laptops daily, the only thing that matters is reliability and durability. I bought the cheap model trying to protect my "overpriced" screwdriver, which I have been using every day for almost 2 years and which is worth every cent. The cheap model = money thrown out the window!

How did you print flow test for delta? CNC kitchen site offer gcode for square area only

I have some vernier calipers but I think I may buy some dial calipers because I wan't a bit more accuracy and faster reading without having to deal with crapy electronics that decide to stop working randomly or consumes way too much battery

You would love Terma callipers from China. 4 digits and very good cradtsmanship.

Not Hall effect. It's an optocoupler. The actuator blocks the beam of infrared light. Hall effect uses magnetism.

iGaging OriginCal callipers are a worthy alternative to genuine Mitutoyos. Good reviews around relating to build quality and measurement consistency. I’ve used mine for 4 years now (original CR2032 still going strong) across office, lab and workshop environments. For a 150mm/6” model, it’s around $110AUD/$70USD, or can be had for much cheaper if on sale.

Battery lifetime would have been interesting. Some cheap calipers just eat through batteries.

I'm surprised you didn't include a "Locking" category for ones where you can lock it at a specific value. For my use that's a must. The calipers I use are the same ones the Nero 3D uses, Neiko. I got them for a little less than $30. I bought them because I watched a video from hum where he used the lock to keep the calipers at a specified value. They were also reasonably priced. I've had them for about 2 1/2 years now and they are my daily driver.