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Totally different approach, but you've inspired me to look into getting the synthetic stock on my Stoeger X20 camo dipped...

Thanks for this Matt. Always good to follow someone else stripping a gun for the first time. My 30 is the only gun I havent tuned as yet so stripped it following your video in readiness for a Welsh Willy kit and a set of Britseals.

do you still use it and is this uk version or fac version?

Recently been researching this issue (no expert) but i came across the 1 piece sports match hop19c mount, pre compensated for barrel droop. Has an arrestor pin also.

Vorrei cortesemente conoscere la marca e le caratteristiche dell' ottica montata sulla carabina. Grazie.

Hi Matt, what pads did you use to extend the stock? I have the same synthetic one on order which I’m looking forward to getting. My only concern is how long we’ll be able to use lead for. I’ve read the baffles inside the moderator act like a cheese grater with anything other than fibre wad.

On next weeks show, we'll be looking into how to wear your hat! 😂

But the real question is … today’s show was brought which biscuit ?

I never knew I didnt know how to tie my laces....

I would buy it in a heartbeat, if only it had a 'classic' stock. Too bad I'm oldschool.

Well explained.

Well that was simple. Thanks Matt. Much appreciated 👍🏻 #subbed

Good morning Matt I have another question for you about my PCP and has something to do with air pressure the recommended air pressure for the gun in the manual says 250 bar. Any place else that it talks about pressure it says 230 bar now my concern is with the FXDRS classic, that’s pretty narrow margins on a small tank what the problem is when I refill this thing in a cool environment the pressure is 230 bar that I go to but it exceeds 250 when I take it out in the heat comment please

Excellent vid! It has inspired me to have ago at replacing the spring in my HW30. I'm in the UK but it has a German spring so is very low power, about 4fpe. Do you have any reccomendations for a de-greaser?

Something I've found useful for reassembling mechanical things is to remember to take plenty of photos as I disassemble them and to be organised with the screws and small parts by keeping them in labelled trays, polythene bags etc. The HW30 is an excellent spring air rifle.

I have a FX - DRS - classic why is the shot speeding up as the tank is coming closer to empty

Nice, whats the lowest number shot allowed in UK, can you buy like 00 buck?

I shimmed my fastmount with a bit of margarine lid. Make sure pin into gun. Fixed my hw 80 with hawke.

I use a thin bit of rubber from a bike inner tube Matt, worked fine

I've had the same problem with an 80 and a 35. I used the '1 piece' Sports Match adjustable mount on both, and they work brilliantly. They are robustly engineered and although expensive almost certainly the best adjustable's available. I've also used the Sports Match 2 piece, but in my opinion they are a bit of a faf to set up. I've also used the BKL adjustables, but wouldn't recommend them ......... shame because their fixed 1 piece self centering fixed mounts are brilliant. I hope this helps. BTW, shimming mounts can cause tube distortion. Keep up the great work

i try again its not loaded up first time , the only way if there is no play or bent barrel , is by using a file at the white spots where the breech block hits the cilinder , and check constant remove the seal first to see where it hits metal on metal use a marker to make the white spots black / it wil ,make the gun more accurat because the recoil is parallel with the barrel shiming is bad it wil bend the scope. a strong one piece mount is the best used on a springer , there is no free movement between the rings

Idiot might be a bit of a stretch, I'd go the bit of tin foil route, cheap and easy, like yourself ;)

Second recommendation for "Get a one piece mount with lock pin and shim with foil" I have had similar problems and found that I needed not just 1 shim of a coke can but 2 under the rear mount to sort out the problem. Remember you are trying to best equalise the adjustment range of windage and elevation turret adjustments whilst making POI equal POA

The first step to solving the problem is to accurately determine what the problem is. Is the barrel bent?( look down it). Is the lock mechanism not engaging fully ( lay straight edges on barrel and scope rails and confirm that they are parallel). Once problem defined then solution will be apparent.

You can check the accuracy of the mounts by reversing then. To check the barrel lock, lightly tap down the barrel on your bag after loading. I had this on a 98 and the problem was the barrel catch was very stiff, reamed out with wet'n'dry then relubed fixed it.

Get a one piece mount with lock pin and shim with foil

I was gonna say try a shim, seems simplest and quikest? Could the barrel be bent, it is a bteak barrel and wouldnt be unheatd if I suppose?

The easiest option is to just shim the scope, you can mess around forever with mounts but the simplest option is often the best way to go.

Explained really well..love the aerosol demo.bang on!! Jak wales

Explained really well.love the aerosol demo bang on.!! Jak Wales.

Dead-fly biscuits for ever!

Easygoing tutorial, very well explained, thank you - and a thumbs-up for iron sights, which I like because they are far quicker to adjust and use.

All those saying the gauge on the front is dangerous !!!!! piffle you can easily read the gauge at an angle Ive never had an issue doing just that while filling mine. Just dont be stupid, use some common sense and follow a few simple safety rules. Also if you dont have a mag in the gun or a pellet chambered you aint gonna shoot yourself in the face. I used to have a pair of the early guns but sold them and regretted it ever since I am very tempted to get another.

One thing not covered here that is especially true with break barrel springers is the "barrel droop" that can grossly affect the "line of sight" with the "line of flight". On many break barrels that I checked in stores, the angle of the barrel is not the same as the cylinder, and you can check by looking down the side while aiming at a light source. Often the reflection of the light on the barrel is NOT the same line as on the cylinder. Really frustrating that they are made this way, and I don't know the reason behind it. If the springer has the "iron sights" mounted on the barrel itself, then barrel droop is of no consequence. But if it is made with dovetails to accommodate a scope, then some serious shimming of the scope may be required. I tested my new "OneLeaf NV400" digital scope (awesome scope) on my Stoeger air rifle, and it shot 18" below target at 20 yards. That's when I observed the barrel droop. After much fiddling with finding a sufficient shimming of the scope, it now shoots with 1/2" groupings at 20 yards, perfect for ratting. Hope this helps with solving other issues one may have with zeroing a scope to a break barrel rifle. Under lever type springers or PCP rifles with barrels fixed to the cylinder tend to not have this issue, but should be checked as well if zeroing a scope is not cooperating.

Oh , did you do a video on taking gun to pieces , to replace seal ? Hopefully you did , cheers shane

Great review and channel buddy,subbed , and very likely will be doing a review on an almost identical one on my channel next wk , cheers shane

Bought mine brand new in 2010! It has been an incredible rifle! Soo reliable and still looks brand new! I use Napier gun oil and a lint free cloth!

My only suggestion is: Angle the camera down a little bit. Couldn't see what you were doing.

Very helpful video Matt. Only problem for me is that I have the latest version of the HW100 in a KT version and when I took the factory screw stud out from the stock there was already a small black washer in the hole. I left it there and screwed the replacement stud in but when it was tight, the holes run front to back not side to side 🙄 so I can’t connect the bipod. If I remove the factory supplied black washer from the hole it looks like the replacement stud will sit too deep! 😩 Just wonder what you suggest? Should I still try a split washer instead of the factory one? Thanks

Great video mate. That was a great Lesson in physics in itself. You should look into teaching/lecturing. Great delivery. Cheers mate

Why do you need spring washer? No need for stud to be tight. Bipod will pull tight againt frame when tightening and also prevent stud from turning...

Its called a lock washer not a spring washer

Cool.. quite clearly should be mine 😊

Great instructions For the uninitiated Harris type Cheers great video

Really disappointed mate! So the whole video depends on one screw, that you state "you can order". You do not state how it is called, or where it can be ordered. Mate, this whole thing is worthless without knowing how this special screw is called, and where you get it. It's like saying: "I'll tell you how this works, all you need is this thing, that you have to find out about yourself, and it all works". Well thanks mate! I never thought that having the right stuff for the mount could ever resolve the problem! Just a tip from an amateur: Telling the people about the most important part, the thing the whole thing is all about, would really be nice!

Good video, very clear instruction. You will notice under the bipod there are 2 tabs with a hole in similar to what the bipod uses to grip the stud, my rifle sling attaches through those I have the brand name bipod, however once when put next to a copy from China the only difference when we compared them apart from large price difference was sleeving over the springs.. which always (on mine) bunch up & look disappointing.

Always enjoyable and informative 👍 Thanks for your time and for sharing.

Love this channel mate please continue enlightening us , many thanks

Excellent info Matt

Who pulled what now?