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If only. It never stops raining here in England.

Great Review! I use the Hasselblad 500 C/M with the 50mm, 80mm, 150mm and 180mm lens. The images that come out of these lenses are sharp with plenty of contrast. I agree, they should be serviced by Hasselblad technicians.

Thank you so much for this. Very well said. If it matters to you, it matters. This is an important lesson well beyond photography. There is no grand cosmic scale at which your personal work becomes objectively, universally significant. On this planet reside billions of people who have never heard the names Robert Capa, Robert Frank, Saul Leiter, Sergio Larrain... Pursue universality and you'll only arrive at disappointment. Your work matters at exactly the scale you allow it to matter, with those you grant the privilege to see it, even if it's only you.

Great video, it was most informative and enjoyable to watch

Nice video. I may invest in one but I have a Minolta Maxxum 9000. I just bought a 3 pack Panasonic brand 2cr5 batteries for $20 American on amazon. .

Great video. I bought that small light meter and it never worked properly-total waste of money. Thank you. RS

Looks like a nice little unit - Love the small size!

NIce! I have been thinking about a better solution for my setup when I use my rolleicord III and need a light meter. I used to bring my DSLR to also act as a light meter but to be honest its too big and heavy, the alternative is to also bring my canon f1n 35mm slr camera and shoot both 35mm and 120 but that's not always something I would like to do! I also realized that my rolleicord III doesn't have a shoe in the camera body so that is an issue! I have to be friends with a light meter app on my smartphone as its easy to bring whenever I go!

Thank you, for almost not butchering all of the German names! Great revue of this wonderfull camera. The shutter releasebutton can be screwed into the hole for the cable release.

I’m a big fan of Minolta film Cameras from the A9 the last model, to the range finder’s. I own one of each, with the XD11, the count is three. Why, because of the glass. #1, Md glass is vast and affordable … #2, Innovation and build quality … The XD11 has everything you need for successful photography.

Thanks Alex!😉👍

I'm using ADOX CHS 100 II as 4x5 (rated ISO 50 with -1 pull development in D-76), and I find it to be just great! Maybe I should give it a try in 120 format, and go with less over-exposure and normal development (I started to use pull development to control contrast with my pinhole shots and the contrast increase of the reciprocity error). Addendum: No problems with curling and flatness for the 4x5 sheets.

A lot of people give the last couple generations of the film Maxxums guff, but they were still pretty solid cameras, regardless of whatever financial troubles Konica Minolta inflicted upon itself. It's a shame that Sony killed off the A-Mount. For me the only Maxxum I liked more than the 70 was the 7000i that introduced me to the Maxxum family. It was my first SLR.

I have a M3 and M4 and use the Leica Summicron 50mm, Voigtlander Nokton 50mm, and Voigtlander Color Skopar 35mm, all are superb. I had the Leica IIIf with a Leica Elmar 50mm and it made great images but I just didn’t like the loading of the camera.

Great intro and great camera!

Curious as to what stock of film you used for this video. Love the deep tones and contrast. Looks like fine grain, too. Reminds me of some of my old Acros 100.

gran video me ha encantado hay una cosa que me gustaria compartir es referente a una formula de reduccion de grano, el SR Jhon Finch de Pictorial Planet publico un video en CZcams con la formula y la impresion de ello y realmente reduce el grano claro que utilizo el tipico revelador ROFINAL aqui expongo la formula por si le interesa investigar,: En 90 ml de agua tibia disulva: 1g 100% Sal lo mas puro posible (sin aditivos como el yodo) 1,8 g acido borico 1,2 g de borax añadir agua para hacer 100ml para utilizar añadir 10ml de esta solucion a 500ml Rodinal a 1+50 revelador de trabajo. un saludo desde BARCELONA ESPAÑA.

I am old; 76 years old but with the camera I always had a CLA done (clean, lubricate and adjust) to keep it as new; purchased for $1,250 new.

I have been using it since it was introduced, purchased new; in conjunction with a Minolta Spotmeter I absolutely love this rangefinder camera; so sharp.

How does it compare to Rollei Retro 80S?

But what if i want a gritty experimental vibe? Reticulation like nothing but 10 years of room temp storage in FL can provide

Im a newb. Should i try pyro if all i use is hc110?

I've been shooting this film (135) for about a year - but I have to say it is not my favorite film. The negatives always come out thin - no matter what developer I use - be it HC110, FX39, Rodinal, ID11, D76, Ilfotec HC, Pyro 510. The film is properly exposed so that is not the problem. The other issue I have with this film is the polyester base as it curls pretty badly even though ADOX says it has an anti curling layer. The same issue I find with Rollei 80s. I am not a fan of polyester bases and it also attracts dust. I definitely preferred their Silvermax film when they were still producing it. I'll stick with FP4+, Delta 100 and Rollei RPX 100 which alway give fantastic results.

According to the repair-manual, there are no less than 4 versions of "The Black Beauty" : First version had a microprism focusing-screen. Version 2 and later, had a split image/microprism focusing screen, and changes to the electronics. The service-manual describes how to update the electronics, so EF cameras that have been serviced may also have been updated... Personally, I like Canons breech lock system, it's A LOT better than M42 screw mount. BTW: If you have an EF with apparently dead light-meter, check that the little exposure-lock button moves freely. On the last one I bought, a version 1, the meter didn’t work, so I was a bit disappointed initially, as the shutter-priority mode doesn't work without a functioning meter. On closer inspection, I noticed the exposure-lock button was stuck in the "lock" position, due to "finger-grease" etc. A drop of isopropanol, and a gentle massage, freed the button and the lightmeter worked perfectly fine again...

Excellent video 😊!

Nice! I enjoy seeing your photos, its a good way of seeing outside of my usual things i like to shoot.

Where can we get the adox chemistry in Toronto? I have an adox film stock (ISO 25, I think) on my fridge for two or three years now and never shoot it because of the chemistry which at this time has eluded me.

IME - a terrible film, at least in 35mm. Incredibly (and I mean incredibly) grainy both in D76 1+1 and in HC110 1+47. Also a 50 EI film in my workflow. I can get the same grain, and tonality with Kentmere 400, which is a 320 EI film in my chain. Kentmere 100, Foma 100 are much finer grain 100 ISO films than the Adox. I love Adox' commitment to film photography, but unless the 120 CHS II is really different from the 35mm, I have to say buyer beware. I personally won't be buying any.

The original Adox films were my late Dad’s favourites in the 1960’s and he always developed in Beutler formula, as a single bath, which is easy to make at home. It gives good sharpness and tonal range.

Can't keep up with Adox. The CMS20II has gone, but the CHSII has returned. Marvelous.

I loved Efke 100 and 50. Souping it in Rodinal in medium format 1:65 gave amazing tones. The extended green sensitivity makes it excellent for woodlands and portraiture. When Adox CHS II is back in stock, I'll certainly pick some up.

I haven't shot any CHS 100 II, yet, but I have a good stash of EFKE 25 (35mm) in the freezer that I bought from a dealer in Croatia shortly after the plant shutdown. Put this emulsion behind some Leica glass and develop it in Pyrocat-HD and you'll gain a new appreciation for what that tiny negative can deliver!

I think the reason for water stop bath, and alkaline fixer with 510 pyro is to prevent the stain from washing out. The stain helps to retain highlight detail.

Thanks for this. I'll try to find a supplier in the UK and test it in 510Pyro. Or maybe a simple 2 Bath might pair with this emulsion? We'll see. All the best from South Wales - UK.

Great review! Thanks. I have a Maxxum a7 with the VC-7 grip. Outstanding rig. Maybe my favorite camera. Also have a good 'ol 400si which I find really fun to shoot with. Cheers!

i ike your presentation!

Been seeing alot about this stock. Seems really interesting. Really beautiful frames you threw up on this one. Did you use a red filter on that capital building shot? BTW, please don't call the cops about that joint in my new film photography video, I promise it was all special effects. Subbed!

Love NYC, Love Super 8. Win Win - good stuff man

I have the chance to buy one right now in mint condition with working meter. Is it worth it? I don’t want to shoot with it and it will break down

Takes you back to an era...

I agree with your opinion of this film. I liked the Kodachrome like punchy colors, even if very contrasty, in this negative film. If the grain could be minimized, it would be a lovely film in its own right. This film has artistic merits and make images look very stylized without the need for filters in post. I bought more rolls to test, in case they stop producing it. Hope they don't.

I had a pretty good experience with Phoenix 200 shooting it at 125 and scanning it with my Epson V550 - Definitely looking forward to seeing what Harman cooks up next.

I use old 70s Nikons when I want fully mechanical cameras, and late Minolta cameras for quick shooting with film (since that was what I started with). Now I really want this one :)

I feel like i didn't do my first roll of phoenix justice. I shot it on a snowwy day, and that was probably the worst situation for it. I'm going to try a rainy day for my next roll, and hopefully that's less contrasty, and turns out nicer.

Excellent video Alex. Your results are so much better than mine with Phoenix -- and I think that a lot of that is your scanning. I sent mine to The Darkroom -- who are a 'certified' place to develop/handle Phoenix -- and I even added a note to my order for them to please adjust their scanner for this specific film -- but with the scans the colors were very oversaturated and out of control and the contrast was a lot more than I think that it should have been (even for this film). I did shoot it in bright sunlight with shadows, so that accentuated the contrast. And then some shots in the shade under trees -- and even with properly metering it at 200, those shots were a muddy mess. So I was not in any rush to shoot my second roll -- but you have given me hope!!! If I can find a place to scan it properly (or get my butt in gear and finish setting up to scan with my M43 mirrorless camera!). Thank you! You have an excellent looking recording set up behind you!

Mine are still waiting to be shot, I have six rolls of it in my fridge at home.

To me Harman Phoenix 200 is a good first step to see how market reacts to a new colour film. While the first version it not a film I am interested in shooting, enough of my friends invested in the film so that I can try out version 2 in the future with its hopefully improved dynamic range, look and grain! On a side note mentioning Fuji as a colour film developer makes no sense as the only thing I hear nowadays from them is discontinued stocks and telling kodak to make their c41 film and Fuji slapping their logo on it!

I was also not particularly impressed with the initial results I saw on SM so I bought one roll to check it out myself. I will use it later this week in my Nikon FE when I walk around downtown Nanaimo, BC. I plan to have it developed by a lab and then take your lead and scan it at home on my D850/SilverFast 9. We will see!

I'm most of the way through my first roll of Harman Phoenix 200 and am looking forward to seeing the results.

I shoot Canon and have for years. I already own a 5D mk IV DSLR and an EOS 3 film body. I have just picked up an old EOS 500N (UK name) for £20 on eBay plus a 28-80 version 3 for £30. I think I got a good buy and now have 3 bodies that can share my already small collection of EF lenses (some of which are L lenses).