Video

Most outboards will show RPM, Engine Hours, Oil Pressure, Engine Temperature, Fuel Burn rate, and Alternator Voltage. Yamahas and Suzukis will display trim, if you like, as well.

Thanks, Josh! Glad to be of help.

Hi Tommy. I'm just writing you an email now. Talk in 10 minutes. Eric.

I'm afraid that Yamaha outboards did not support NMEA 2000 until 2006. Sorry

The batteries required far outweigh the weight of the trolling motor. I guess that is why you don't find much data on it. If you have a 12V trolling motor that does not have the large coiled cord running from top to bottom then you have significant savings in power loss due to wiring. If you only need the thrust of a 12V, and can use one that is constructed like this, it would be an excellent choice.

Thanks for the comment. Glad you found our video helpful.

True/ Kind of... The issue is that a 60" shaft Powerdrive has about 110 feet of wire inside it. And that Minnkota internal wiring gets in the way no matter how much you spend on your wiring to the battery.

​@@GoldenChannels Your talking about the wire inside the armature right? But isn't that also sized for 12v, otherwise it would overheat?

You're very welcome! Glad to be of help. Check out our wiring for trolling motors if you are looking for cables!

Sorry about that. RIght here: czcams.com/video/mGENFfzLhxg/video.htmlsi=7xjJwrWzRtv4vqrP

What you see on my boat, which is 18 ft, and about 2800 lbs dry weight, is a 12V Powerdrive 55 lb. It can get me to a top speed of 2.1 mph. It is okay in what I would call moderate wind. High winds would be a problem. Hope that helps.

Thank you for the info, how does it do in strong current ?

@@kennyjimenezjr.1348It wouldn't do very well. If you're dealing with significant current, I would definitely go with more thrust.

For the difference in those prices, I would go with the 24V motor, assuming weight in your boat is not a concern, and that either battery setup gives you enough run time.

Sorry for the confusion. There are other cables we sell for Yamaha that are for power (150 HP+ models have built in isolators for a house battery). The NMEA 2000 Yamaha installation video should maybe be more clear. Any Yamaha built since 2006 from 25 HP up has the same NMEA cable, and all the Yamaha bundles we sell will work for 25HP and up. Does that make sense?

Yup that's where I got confused. So back to my question. The battery isolator lead on your site, will it work on my 2021 sho 200 even though you state only the 225,250 and 300hp has it? I'm asking because the f150 has it. Thanks again for your help. 😁

@@BjBnet you need a different Yamaha Cable for the 200 for the house battery. It is Yamaha Part Number 68F-81949-01 and it is for the 150-200 HP outboards. Keep in mind that this cable and the isolator powering it is for lead acid battery use. If you are using Lithium, or any other chemistry other than Lead Acid or Sealed Lead Acid, this charging method for a house battery may not work or may even cause alternator damage. The move to other battery chemistries is the reason we no longer stock these cables and are phasing them out of our inventory to focus more on NMEA only. Hope this helps.

@@GoldenChannels I live in Canada, I can't afford a lithium battery lol. Thank you for looking up that part number and the information. It's VERY helpful.

@@BjBnet Lol... I hear you. I'm up here too. We don't hear from Canadians that much. Take care.

Thanks for your comment. Something else we do for many of our customers installing the Yamaha Speedos, 6Y8 or 6Y5, is to help them wire from the GPS signal on their MFD/Fish Finder. Many fish finder models have the wiring readily available, plus we can connect their VHF radio at the same time, if they have one. Then, their speedo displays GPS speed.

No vendemos ni diseñamos ningún producto de cable que funcione con el medidor 6Y5. Lo siento.

Thanks, Derrick!

You may have to disconnect the batteries from the circuit before charging. Which charger model?

Hi Joey. Thanks for your feedback. Don't forget to subscribe. We'll be introducing some new products soon!

Thanks for your comments and feedback. I agree that it's hard to get that membrane back in place if it dislodges. You can, very carefully, snap the semi circle retaining clips off to help with the job, and snap them back on after you've re-seated the seal. But you have to be careful. They're easy to break.

If the connector is there, it should work. We will also give you a full refund if it doesn't.

@@GoldenChannels Many thanks, I have sent you a message.

Fernando, I don't think that was the issue. Keep in mind that the Yamaha House Battery cable will also only work on Lead Acid type batteries, so the MinnKota Alternator should be used for other battery chemistries. In short, the Yamaha House Battery output is a convenience feature. It can save you money on a separate isolator. But puttting a separate isolator should still work fine.

@@GoldenChannels thanks for reply ! I now bought an Orion tr charger because I put lithium batteries in it. You say that if I connect it to the starter battery directly it should also work fine? I have a Yamaha 150F, or do I need to connect it to the auxiliary battery cable?

@@GoldenChannels I put an orion tr that raises the voltage from 12 to 24 V 15A, I need to charge two lifepo4 batteries in series, but my big doubt is if I connect it to the battery house cable or if I can connect it directly to the starter battery. I mean positive and negative charger connected directly to the starter battery.

@@fernandox189 I looked at the Orion website. There are plenty of models. It would probably be best to ask them that question. If you need to isolate your trolling motor charging from your starter battery, the Yamaha cable we were discussing should work if your particular DC-DC converter from Orion supports charging directly from an alternator and also draws no more than your rated alternator output, which is in your Yamaha owners manual.

Sorry for the confusion. My exact words are "mount the receptacle vertically". The plug should enter the receptacle at a horizontal plane, or if possible, at a slightly downward tilt towards the power cable going into the plug. The important point is you should never mount any receptacle so that it faces upwards towards the sky, as it will become a moisture collector (which is pretty obvious, but yet I have seen people do this, including videos here). Some connectors will allow water to go through them, others are simply a cup, and will continue to hold water that accumulates from spray or rain. The power lead should drop downwards from where it enters the plug.

A Higher voltage choice on batteries always leads to lower power loss over wiring. But there are other issues that might affect your choice here. Higher voltage batteries have more cells, and that leads to lower power density, and overall less battery reserve capacity.

How lower power density ? for example, if I'm designing a 24V li-ion battery pack from 18650 cells, then that would be 7S and for power density I would put multiple rows of 7 cells in series. So 7S5P has more power over 7S4P. For 12V on the other hand, 4S5P would have less power than 7S5p, am I right here ? @@GoldenChannels

@@PerchEagle Generally, if you have room for a certain amount of power, if you divide the usable area by more cells in order to get a higher voltage, the mechanical aspects of having more cells uses more of the space for walls and hardware for multiple cells, instead of fewer walls for a lower voltage bank, but with each cell having greater reserve capacity. This may not be as obvious with drones, but it is a huge consideration in solar, and golf carts/RVs.

Yep, I agree in drones it's a very sensitive specification, because more cells means more weight which could affect the efficiency of the drone. But in terrain robot, I think I can increase the battery size a bit for more power capacity. It's for me now whether I should design 24V or 12V battery pack for my future terrain robot.@@GoldenChannels

Yes, you're absolutely correct. For most of our customers, that Mercury solution is not practical.

Hi Greg. Thanks for your comments. You're very welcome!

Interesting. Did you have the ferrules installed over the wires?

Two different protocols. J1939 isn't NMEA 2000, although they are similar and both based on Canbus. Your Outboard sends NMEA 2000 PGNs, and you need an NMEA 2000 Network.

Apparently you need a yamaha hub?

@@ryanmtown No, you don't need the hub. We sell the exact kit you need here: goldenchannels.com/product/yamaha-lowrance-garmin-humminbird-complete-nmea-bundle/ Everything you need is there, and nothing you don't. This is the minimum cable configuration to get engine data to display on your Garmin from your Yamaha outboard.

Pink and black for Fuel Tank 1 on the 6 pin speedo cable.

@@GoldenChannels thank you :)

@@mik13700 Glad to help.

Does your boat have Command Link, and you already have this gauge?

Thanks for the comment. Very glad to help!

Yes, either an Yamaha Specific NMEA cable or the Yamaha Command Link cables to their Command Link gateway will connect and communicate. We also make a cable bundle that gives you a cost effective complete cable network that is custom designed for your fish finder: goldenchannels.com/product/yamaha-lowrance-garmin-humminbird-complete-nmea-bundle/ Hope this helps.

@@GoldenChannels does the cable have to connect directly to the engine or can it go into the Yamaha mutil hub instead? Thanks

@@bido8176 The cable bundle link I sent does not need any Yamaha components. If you already have Command Link components installed, we can bridge from an existing Command Link system. But if you do not have any Command Link cabling or devices, none are needed, only our cable bundle. Does that make sense?

I absolutely agree! 12V systems have less technical issues to overcome. Chargers and charging systems are simplified, due to the 12V design being more common, and if you want, you can charge with a standard isolator like you are doing. What's more, if you are a good shopper, you might find a 55 lb 12V Powerdrive at a boat dealer as a "take off". That is how I bought mine. Thanks for your comment!

​@@GoldenChannels Thanks! I got my 55lb, PowerDrive with iPilot from a MinnKota dealer as a factory reconditioned unit for $1,050 including shipping. It looks new to me and was $300 less than a new one (if I could find one in stock.)

Hi Michael. We are slowly building a library of videos for various outboard types. The engine connection on a Yamaha similar to mine is shown here: czcams.com/video/6Qfis-mVrWo/video.html More will follow as they come available. Thanks.

Hi Michael. This video assumes that you already have an NMEA 2000 Network. We also have a video for the NMEA 2000 Network install here: czcams.com/video/FfsERsXfp1o/video.html

Hi Justin. We have a complete bundle for that. The two cables bundles you need are here: goldenchannels.com/product/yamaha-humminbird-helix-nmea-bundle/ and goldenchannels.com/product/humminbird-helix-g4n-nmea-2000-cable/ Those will give you a complete setup for your boat.

Thanks! I may have to go with a lowrance hds-7 since I want to see engine hours. What will that take?

@@justinabbott1155 Lowrance HDS series has always supported NMEA 2000, and we have a kit specific for it and the Yamaha. Only one item to buy: goldenchannels.com/product/yamaha-lowrance-garmin-humminbird-complete-nmea-bundle/ Everything you need is in this bundle for your Lowrance HDS and Yamaha Outboard.

Thanks!! Will this show the fuel and trim on the motor or will I need extra pieces?

@@justinabbott1155 Trim can be changed between reading on an analog gauge (if you have one now) or trim data can be send over NMEA 2000. You need to move a wire inside to do this. It is a single conductor pink wire with two choices of single conductor connections. Fuel Consumption is given on your fish finder, but if you want fuel tank level, that is another device. But most guys update their fish finder settings for fuel tank capacity, and tell the fish finder when they fill up, then it can calculate distance to empty very accurately.

Thanks for your comments. Glad to help. It is very difficult to find good answers on line for this kind of question. This is due to a number of variables that come into the equation. Things like hull design, weight, and trolling motor thrust all come into what can be expected for speed. My boat weighs about 2,500 lbs. Our 150 HP outboard will push it along at a maximum speed of around 50 mph. When trolling, our 55 lb 12V powerdrive trolling motor gets us to a top speed of 2.1 mph. This suits our needs. I generally troll around 1.5 mph, and keeping everything on a 12V system makes charging easy. My only recommendation for you would be a slightly larger group 29 battery. They will give you quite a bit more run time with only slightly more weight. I would expect somewhere around 2.5 to 3 mph to speed from the setup you are describing. It should definitely be sufficient for trolling.

Hi Fredrik. Interesting. Did you solder/tin your wires?

@@GoldenChannels no

You know, Keith, that is a great question. And one that I went over with my son working on his car recently. This is one of those things that some people swear by, and others never use. I use it sometimes. When wiring a boat, if you use tinned marine grade wire, and crimps that do not allow moisture to affect the connection and are properly heat shrink sealed, putting some dielectric grease where the nuts tighten over the lugs certainly doesn't hurt. Dielectric grease is completely non conductive, so any contact that is tightened properly will displace it and should not create any issues in low voltage applications. In situations where there is direct exposure to salt air, or things like battery terminals where there is corrosion, I would always use it. I also apply it to things like automotive connectors that are exposed to water and road salt. It allows you to disconnect the connectors a lot easier. In this video I would probably not use it internally in the connector, instead paying close attention to how the thin rubber gasket is installed to try to keep moisture out. In my freshwater world, I would not generally worry about putting dielectric grease on the plug and receptacle contacts, but in a salt environment, it could help extend the plugs useful life. Just don't go crazy with it. Use sparingly.

Sorry if somehow an incorrect number is out there. I'm in the office. If you send me an email at sales@goldenchannels.com with how to get hold of you, I can call you right back.

Hi Robbie. Sounds like a great setup for a kayak. My first comment would be that the Trolling Motor Manufacturer should have a "rigging guide" that would contain their wiring suggestions for each model of trolling motor. This would specify the AWG size versus length. On our website, we have a power loss calculator for Minnkota and MotorGuide models, but not for your brand. Calculations may or may not hold true, depending on the wire using internally in your trolling motor. goldenchannels.com/electric-trolling-motor-power-loss-calculator/ The calculations and data provided on this calculator are based on the two manufacturers rigging guides. My second point would be to choose your connectors wisely. We got out of this business because it was so competitive, but still have some reviews here. If you connections get wet, use connectors that have some moisture protection. None are actually "waterproof". I do not currently think that any one manufacturer has a perfect solution. Lastly, check forums about discussion with Lithium with your particular motor, and see if anyone has run into issues with them delivering too much power to the motor when cranked wide open. There are some folks saying the lithiums are not recommended at over 80% speed, because they will deliver more power under load that traditional lead acid batteries. We can help you with well built wiring, but like I said, we're out of the connector game. Hope that helps. Eric.

@@GoldenChannels Thank you for the quick and informative answer.....I really appreciate it. Newport has been very hard for me to communicate with but I will try again for wiring specs and general info. A lot of kayakers are using the lithium ion batteries in series, most using two 12v 50ah, with no problems that I am aware of. I want the security to fish the I C W, many places being a mile or more from the launch site, and I am too old to want to paddle back in an emergency. For a connector, I am looking at a 70a rated marine type that can use 6-8ga wire. its BIG but well reviewed. Thanks again. It is nice to find a true gentleman these days

@@robbierobinson6312 You're very welcome, Robbie. That sounds like a great place to fish. Take care!

@@GoldenChannels I found a couple of your other videos, good stuff. I already had the Marineco connector on my list and the charts that you suggested make me feel that I will be O K with the installation as planned. Again, I appreciate the efforts you have made to help those of us who need it.

@@robbierobinson6312 I'm a fan of the newer 70A plug shown in our trolling motor plug installation video. It's what I have in my boat, and it works for me.

Hi Dêmius. The Yamaha digital speedo only displays 7 different levels, so it is not very high resolution. The only adjustment or setting for the speedometer is to set the type of sending unit that is in the fuel tank. Many fish finders or MFDs have better fuel features and displays based on using the fuel flow and settings for fuel tank size to determine things like distance to empty, etc. Hope this helps.

Thanks, Keith! Short answer is yes. Exactly how much depends on the AWG of your power wire, and the length to the battery, however, the most significant reason it will be more efficient is there will be a lot less % of power loss in the trolling motor itself at 24V. 5% minimum advantage, but could be as high as 20%

Jimmy, thanks for the comment. Glad to help.

Yes, the power loss "disappears" in heat. Larger wire does help, but not as much as higher voltage.

Hi Jim. Things have been a bit too busy to get around to the upgrade, but I can let you know that this is only available for very specific models of motors. The main issue is the sizes of the armature and magnet carrier. The 55 lb to 70 upgrade works, but I have not checked other models. Sorry I couldn't help more.

@@GoldenChannels Eric, Thank you for responding. I have learned so much watching your videos on Trolling Motors, Batteries, Wiring, and more. I really appreciate & enjoy your commentary, insights, and examples. Keep up the good work.

@@jimetherington Thanks for the comments, Jim. Glad to be of service! Take care.

Hi Cody. With the same boat, lengths and AWG wiring, the 36 V motor would provide more push/pull in the water.

@@GoldenChannels what if you power them with a 48 or 52 volt battery which one would put out more power?

@@GoldenChannels thank you for the response I seen guys on CZcams take two 350 watt motors on a bike and claim they're getting 1800 watts of power out of them somehow do you know how to do that ?

@@codydavidson8315 The best way to think about this, is that the higher the voltage used in any power distribution system, the less power loss that will result as a result of the resistance of the wiring. This is a universal rule, and it is why high voltage is used in the power grid. Does that make sense?

@@GoldenChannels czcams.com/video/SHXQr2MPJS8/video.html