Video

Equalizing the system seems to be hit or miss on whether it fixed the lean problem. A lean of some sort seems to be inherent in Tacoma/4Runners, I guess due to the weight distribution (fuel tank, etc). However, if you do try the equalization method it is performed AFTER installing a lift, so you could still do it.

I removed the 4 factory D-rings and ran bolts through the platform into the threaded mounting holes so it’s fully secure.

In this build, NO! But if you look at my channel I have a follow up to this video where I talk about all the changes I made- including anchoring it to all 4 tie down locations.

Look up “208Tyler” on CZcams and go back to his Pathfinder videos, he goes over a lot of suspension options! Tyler es mi amigo.

Dang! The quality is really nice. Seems there aren’t many options for hidden winch cradles, if I were to do it now without options I’d get one of those mid-bumper replacements that replaces the center bottom section entirely.

That’s an idea for next time! However; then the square tubing wouldn’t be flat below my pinch weld? Anyway, lots of good ideas for next time, I might redo these this summer! My friend bought a legit bender too which is a game changer.

Thanks dude. Yeah I think you’re right about round tube under the pinch weld making it easier. Hopefully can just cope and rotate. I should do that for round 2!

I just got done building a replacement drawer system, similar style. It’s a great beginner project, could be done with a jig saw and a drill.

Was quite a while ago, but honestly every time I do woodworking and don’t wear a mask I wish I did lol. Be coughing up saw dust all night.

Yeah it’s black plastidip.

Noo!!! What about one of those flexible claw grabber things? Get one with no magnets so it’s a smaller head to put through the hole maybe.

@@GrizzlyPath flimsy dry cleaner hanger, bent with a little hoop at the end got the wires up. Then needle nose, to grab the bottom part of the plug and pull through the hole. Success! Super grateful cause I thought for sure I wasn't going to get that back.

Yes, mine works well. Hmm… I would start by tracing all your wiring, see if something is broken. Sounds like power is being cut since the camera does work for a min.

That extra thing goes outside so you can have an inside/outside temp. However, the one I bought wasn’t waterproof so it died pretty quick. I’d tuck it somewhere out of the weather if possible.

@@GrizzlyPath thanks for the reply. I guess my real question is does the thermometer still work without that piece?

@cruzinthruspace yes it does! I still use mine.

Yeah I don’t have the KDSS bracket spacers in front or rear and so far it’s been fine. I can’t see any binding or limitation on the KDSS system. Maybe if I go taller I’d need them. This adapter isn’t 100% necessary, but it definitely seems to align that bushing better so I expect a bit more longevity out of it.

I started with a standard 4x8 sheet and cut it from that. I can’t remember the measurements, but I basically just trimmed cardboard to check fitment and then traced that onto the plywood. Cut it out with a jigsaw. Should go pretty smooth- just be aware it won’t be as easy to install/remove because the wings require you to turn the plywood sideways slightly to get it through the hatch. Have fun!

Interior carpet used: Home Depot TrafficMaster Dayside - Color Ebony 6 ft. Indoor/Outdoor Texture Black Carpet Model# MK22W180072S Internet# 302721625 Store SKU# 1002655844

@@GrizzlyPathwhat kind of spray glue did you use for the carpet?

I’m glad! I really like KDSS but it’s definitely more involved reattaching it haha.

I’ve used it many times and it still works great!

@@GrizzlyPath just come back to say the system works perfectly fine and I saved a loot time in inflating... Thanks once again!!

They’re good totes, and if you ever change your mind they make for good home storage too so you can’t go wrong.

They are Plano 68qt bins, I might have a link in the video description for the ones I used!

Thank you! 1) I usually use cam straps but for things on the roof sometimes I’ll use ratchet straps, 2) I did modify them! Remove the OEM hook and you can use the threaded hole to screw in some eye-bolts. I think they’re m8 maybe.

@@GrizzlyPath Hey man, just wanted to drop by and thank you again. I got a 2024 4Runner SR5 last week (Canadian trim with the third row) and went to Banff for a week. I basically copied your loading plan, and it worked out great. The system is so easy to load and unload. Since I don't have a roof rack I had to push the 2nd-row seats to their most forward position in order to load the tent and screen canopy horizontally behind the cooler/plano tote. But since my daughters (5, 8 and 11) are still young they still had 'okay' leg room and we managed just fine.

Awesome, glad I was able to help give you some ideas!!

I would 100% do that if I was city camping. I only camp out in the middle of nowhere so stealth isn’t absolutely necessary.

Not really the bushings, but as you approach the flex limits of the KDSS system (3.5+”) your lift will start working against the system so you need to modify it for the new baseline vehicle height and/or flex capabilities.

@@GrizzlyPath and things like this can help! I’m just trying to level her out. Maybe go a .5” higher overall.

Need, no. But it’d still be useful, but I wouldn’t bother.

I’m sorry I don’t! However, it’s pretty straight forward to measure. Ensure you leave 1/8” of clearance on all sides to account for carpet. Measure for total height from floor up to top of carpet angled piece behind seats. That’s what you want it to be flush with. I recommend you check out my latest update video on this platform, I made some important upgrades that I wish I did the first go around- learn from my mistakes!

Yes you should still have the room I think!

Hmm, it cuts up your bumper so the valence hides it which is nice. With this particular hidden mount I don’t think you could do it clean, but there might be others that require less cutting. Otherwise I’d look into one of those low pro units that is metal and you cut out the entire lower portion of the bumper.

Oof, hard to remember! Can always use extra if you have spare. I probably bought 24’ but only needed like 14-16’

There are a lot of options out there, I’d say just find one that fits your budget. Bilstein 5100 + lift springs of your choice are the baseline. Beyond that there’s adjustable like Ironman FCP, Toyotec, and beyond!

It’s lightweight, modular, functional as heck. Con would be it doesn’t have the round tube aesthetic if you’re into that, and these types of racks are pretty popular so it’s not super unique- although bare aluminum is pretty rare. I’m happy with it!

@@GrizzlyPath no the lift kit

Ohh haha, I like it a lot! Pro-tip, don’t install the little Allen set screws. Just the coil over locking rings are enough. The set screws Allen head strip out and they rust in, and also damage the threads. I’ve never used the set screws on other coil overs without issue but these are dumb! The adjuster spanner is expensive but really nice for adjusting while on the vehicle. The style of locking rings aren’t “gears” otherwise you could use a standard coil over spanner or hammer/punch, kinda a bummer.

@@GrizzlyPath OK great thanks good to know!

I just used factory torque specs for the entire thing I believe.

They’re not in the video, but they should be pretty easy to measure yourself. Just make sure you take into account 1) approx 1/8” on each side for carpet, and 2) space for the hatch to shut. I recommend you watch my more recent platform update vids because I made some improvements I think are valuable.

No, I don’t believe it’s a substitute for the KDSS spacers, but it does help fix the sway bar bracket alignment which I’m unsure if it does much but reduce bushing wear. Doubt it will not help with lean, id recommend small (1/4”) strut spacers to help with lean. I equalized the pressure in the KDSS manifold, but I’m unsure if it did anything to affect lean. I’m not sure if I ever had lean personally.

@@GrizzlyPath after some research I see it was a very dumb question for me to ask haha. Thank you for the very polite reply though

You did something wrong in there! You should be good at pulling it apart now though.

1/4-in lifting eye with 1/2” long shaft that is threaded in 1/4-20 so you can use 1/4-20 captive nuts. US Stainless 4 Pieces Stainless Steel 316 1/4" Lifting Eye Bolt 1/4" UNC Marine Grade

Hmm, did you make sure the gauge brightness adjuster wheel is “clicked” one step down from the max brightness setting? Otherwise I’m not entirely sure, I don’t recall any additional settings in the infotainment system.

@@GrizzlyPath Let me clarify. Again thank you for this. My issue is/was daylight rain. Here in MA by law you have to have your headlights on anytime your wipers are on. With that the screen would go dark in the daylight, then I could barely make out the radio screen, the opposite issue for you I know, I like it bright during the day. Drove me nuts, so once again thank you for this. I've had it now for a couple of days. Yesterday morning leaving for work it was dark enough for headlights , screen was dark but it switched (by itself ) to a bright screen as it got lighter outside, AWESOME. That is when i notced the digital clock stayed dark even though both screens(radio and dash) went bright. Was hoping you could check yours and let me know.To answer your question yes it is one click below always on( I'm very anal about that). My truck is a 22 SR5P. I told my buddy about this, he has the same but a 2020 and he ordered the part from the same seller i got mine from on Ebay and I'm going to be installng it on his truck for him when it arrives later this week. Thank you again for your video, you've helped out myfriens and me.