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My generator on my 1948 IH Farmall Cub tractor uses a cutout instead of a voltage regulator. Will my generator recharge my newly purchased 8 volt battery as such, or will I still need the 6 to 8 volt switch and resistor you offer?

I could not agree more. I drive a 1940 Ford which is stock 6 volt positive ground. I keep reading about people who are convinced that they must be converted to 12 volts. So many people do not understand about proper cable size and clean connections. GREAT VIDEO!

3 drops of 3-in-one oil on each of the battery terminals at every oil change and it'll keep them looking brand new. I've had my truck for 23 year's, still has the original alternator. Lazy people pay in more ways than one 🤣

Does this work for the first generation powerstrokes

Thanks for the video. I rebuilt a 1947 Farmall a, by using high compression pistons. It’s a beast to turn over. I was thinking of going to 12 V simply for that reason, but you are making me rethink that. The current 6v starter just doesn’t cut it. Any advice?

Great video, but I would *really* appreciate a clean diagram showing exactly how you had the solenoid wired up when testing it isolated in the vice. Alternatively, it would have been nice if all the wires were clean and colour coded. It's hard to tell what goes where because they all go out of frame.

After starting the engine, later model 12 valve Cummins (1998), how many watts or amps does the alternator put out without headlights or vent fan running? Is the battery charging continuous or does it fluctuate? Also, will you be making a 180 amp version for these earlier model trucks? Thanks.

I love that era of body style... Even though, I do own a '53 Dodge Regent four door... I still like yours better 👍

I was looking at a competitors similar product, but after watching this video I will be getting one from this shop. Thanks

That system I can do for a rx-7 1985

Hi there, removed my starter , then wanted to see what was not working. I connected an earth jumper cable to a different battery and to the body of the starter and the positive cable to the battery and then to the positive 'pole' on the solenoid. The starter spun immediately but the 'shaft' with the gear on it ,did not thrust forward. Any ideas, thanks in advance .

I had the 51 4 door Cornet

what is your address so I can send you may regulator a new one

I just put a reman Carquest alternator on my 2004 F250 PSD (single alternator, passenger side) Also replaced both batteries. Tests show the alternator is charging (mid 13s, bumped 14ish once) but the battery light on the dash remains illuminated. I checked volts on the connection plug ports and it shows about 12.5 on the green and only about 1.2 or so on the other. I think this is why my battery dash light is staying on but not for sure. I'm worried that something could be getting damaged despite it showing good volts to the batteries, i.e. charging. I'd like to take the Carquest alternator off, return it, and get the 130A one-wire you guys sell. Will installing the one-wire alt. and eliminating the plug turn off the dash light? And, more importantly, will I need to upgrade any wires by bumping up to the 130A? Thanks in advance for the guidance and videos!

Thanks for the video. I'm changing my 860 to 12 volts now. I am putting on LED lighting, electronic ignition and would like EFI at some point, so 12v is the only way. I've seen others saying there are no changes needed on the starter. I guess I'll find out. As long as the only harm is to the starter rather than the ring gear I'm not too worried if I trash a starter over time.

Brilliant clear video

Excelente

I had an issue with the front distributor as it would break a lead from torsion bar movement so I took off the front axle and welded a 1/4 “ steel stop plate on the axle both sides to limit the movement of the torsion bars. Works Great.

I Just put it in! Should I be seeing 14.4v? Sumtime it flickers to 14.5 Is this not a bad thing?

Actually, it is a 12 Ga wire ...

Just for you guys in the comments here let me tell you briefly about my situation with my OEM charging. Here’s this for brief. It’s absolute garbage. Buy one of these alternators right now. Get rid of the voltage regulator and PCM. They should’ve never been put in these trucks to begin with. And do yourself a favor go buy a brand new set of cables For your battery charging system, negatives and positives with good terminals for battery connection. It’s a night and day difference. And you guys running quadzilla, it’s an absolute must. I’ve had nightmares of problems with the OEM alternator and PCM and voltage regulator. I almost destroyed an $800 quad Zila computer because of it . buy one wire all alternator!

Just placed my order! Thanks. Just curious because I didn’t read on the website anywhere. What’s the warranty situation. I assume you guys will work with me if something comes up down the road, I’ll give you a call.

Fascinating and extremely informative. I’m curious does your company make aftermarket alternators for Ram trucks? I’m new to all this.

Intelligent charger was available online. 10amp, auto and it has settings for 6, 8, 12 and I think 24 volts. After putting an electronic replacement for the point in a 6 volt Chevy we found out that in the winter time the six volt battery in the cold would pull the voltage down to about 4.8 volts. The electronic needed a minimum of 5.1 so even though we were turning over the ignition wouldn't make a spark. Since there is still a generator in the car we modified the spring bracket so that the regulator would charge at 9+ volt

Great video thank you

VERY GOOD EXPLANATION...THANKS

Had no idea this existed!!!❤

you earn a new subscriber Sir straight on first video....thumbs up for crystal clear video on the subject

There are so many different kinds of Gorilla Glue and JB Weld. Could you tell us the specific types or either or both?

What is the video called for your amp draw talk , i searched amp draw solenoid , , but brings up a list of a few , I've started with ' Solenoid Not Working On Early Delco Starters' , but re-watching this and thought I would ask

Can I replace those with a fuses

4:25 Thanks for wasting a fusible link educating for us.

My first car was a 1950 Dodge Coronet 4 door sedan in dark blue (faded appropriately on horizontal surfaces) and named for the spinster who was the original owner out in NW Iowa in 1966. Agnus had the Gyromatic transmission and I loved it, slow as it was and young as i was. I must have, I've owned a 49 and a 51 Chrysler Windsor since with the bigger flat head six but same transmission. It didn't take too long to figure out some shortcuts around the operation of that fluid drive wonder and pushing in the clutch greatly speeded up the shifting process on 1st to 2nd or the 3rd to 4th gearchange. And that push starts were best accomplished in reverse. In all fairness, my grandparents on both sides of the family had similar age MOPARS when I was younger and my dad's dad had taught me how to drive on his 52 Coronet beginning when I was 4 or 5. The closest I got to my other grandparents 52 Windsor was years later when I bought my own 51.

Thank you very much for all the details. I have a ford industrial 4000 and was going to change it to 12v. Not any more, now knowing the speed in starting has a difference.

Awesome video thanks for sharing! I have a 2002 excursion 7.3 diesel, with drivers side alternator. I have a situation where my batteries are a few months old, good clean connections, have a volt meter plugged into power point, and it runs consistently 14.0-14.3 volts, but battery (alternator) light will flicker or momentary on, especially giving it fuel. Ive replaced the plug that plugs into the alternator which you explained in this video, and i think the root problem is, the clip inside where the plug goes, is broke, so my guess is i need to get it held down tighter for the light to stop going on. Id like to come up with something more permanent than rigging up a wire tie strap. Any thoughts? Thanks!

I just had to do this for a 1978 Craftsman Badger 1 riding lawnmower. Three of the six came off, re-glued them with metal reinforced JB Weld and it worked like a charm. Unfortunately the motor shaft broke when tightening the nut. Ended up welding the flywheel to the shaft, now back to running better then ever.

I have a 03 6.0 turbo diseal change alternator battery and still keep getting the battery light on the dash flashing of and on

Thank you for getting back to me,...I am a senior trying to help out my son with is '50 chev truck. It is an '86 s10 frame with the original 2.8l v6. It has a aftermarket temp gauge, oil pressure gauge, and an ammeter. It also has a 3wire alternator. One main positive post, and a #1 and #2 terminal. I hooked the ammeter from the #2 terminal, went to the ammeter, then from the ammeter to the battery positive. Of course, that does not work. I hooked up a set of these gauges back in 1972 with some help, but today, am scratching my head. Can you help? Thank you.

Thank you for this very informative video. Wondering if you can advise where I can connect an aftermarket ammeter. I know to connect one lead to the battery positive from the ammeter,..but I do not know where to connect the other wire of my ammeter. I am using a 10 gauge wire.

Great knowledge!!!!! Much appreciated Larry!

Great video!

First, I came here for the idea I had of using a "Popper" for a reliable energy source, even if a major solar flare hit..... Then you got a 87 GN (the best choice I might add )...... And then, on top of that, you got a 53 Ford.... 3 on the tree, and dont think you will ever slip it back into 1st gear if it is rolling at all.... Nice Garage.....

But can it make a pot if coffee

Can I put the 1 wire alternator on my 2007 f250 6.0 diesel?

Thank you so much. This was the information I have been looking for, without knowing the correct search terms. Its horrible bot knowing what one dosnt know. Lol

Thank you so much. This was the information I have been looking for, without knowing the correct search terms. Its horrible bot knowing what one dosnt know. Lol

FYI that 200amp is an AC DELCO, comes with a 6 rib pulley, just incase anyone wanted to DIY this, you simply swap your pulley onto the new one, you don’t need the fancy plug they made for it you can simply jump the wires where you see they go in the video. The battery light will not come up again though as you can see there is no wire for it on the 200amp alternator he’s got.

Nice demonstration. Thankyou for the upload!

GOLD GOLD GOLD info. Thankyou for the detailed video.

I prefer to install a circuit breakers myself.