Video

Quyanas 😢

You are technically correct. I'm aware of the calculations you mention, as well as the fact that a slightly wider tire can have less rolling resistance, etc. I'll probably cover this in an upcoming video. The inflation pressure information you are referencing is specific mainly to road bikes, but on this channel I have people who ride all types of bikes. It would take a separate video to explain this information and I would have to be specific in stating that it is primarily for road bikes. The point I'm trying to make in this video is for people to check the air in their tires before riding. I can't tell the viewer who rides a middleweight bike with 26" x 1 3/8" tires that holds 65 pounds that he should ride with 50-75% of that amount of air. Thanks for your comments and thank you for watching my videos.

Start with max pressure and just tap the valve a little to test lower settings till a grease pencil mark wears off the center tread

I've never heard of doing it this way. Does this really work?

@@GregDickerson-bikevideos yes. You can find Tire Crayons in automotive but they make very permanent marks on rubber. Whiteout works for the tread/inflation test. I carry work clothes and panniers or picnic lunches and weather layers. A piece of chalk works and is cheap. Make white stripes across the tread and ride straight. Look at the tread and see where it scrubs off. You can also use chalk to mark the lines for tire roll out to measure for cycle computers, mark intersections you've passed if you have to backtrack to navigate, leave signs for riders off the back, or do art without damage.

A compressor is definitely faster than a floor pump.

I've never used Gorilla tape for this. Do you carry it with you for emergencies when riding?

@@GregDickerson-bikevideos yes sometimes, a few feet rolled around a cigarette lighter or smashed toilet paper roll tube. It might patch a pannier or save a gashed injury with paper towels or gauze.

Kind of like a Swiss army knife for emergencies.

@@GregDickerson-bikevideos I used it to wrap a roadie tire that separated at the bead from a pothole. I deflated it before it exploded, taped it and opened the brake wide, inflated to 60. I made it home and the wheel survived. I used Gorilla once to replace a wasted road bar tape for a ride. I wrapped McDonald's napkins and used 1in wide strips like cork tape. Sticky but it worked for a day.

I may start carrying Gorilla tape as well. It sounds like it's pretty good for temporary "get you back home" emergency repairs. I have a rule that I don't call for help, relying on some kind of emergency repair to get me back home. I've only violated this rule twice: once when I had a sidewall blowout and once when I thought it was too unsafe to ride through city traffic in Charlotte, North Carolina.

I'll have to try this. Regardless what you do, the metal will go back to its oxidized state unless you coat it with clear coat or you anodize the metal.

Thanks, I'm glad it helped!

No, I just use Nevr-Dull. All I want to do is remove the oxidation layer. If you like the bright shiny highly polished look you could use something like Simichrome or Flitz. Keep in mind that these parts are bare aluminum alloy, so they are going to go back to their oxidized state. Nevr-Dull brightens them up somewhat and is a lot easier to do.

i tryed the never dull and it just dont come back as good as what you showed for me lol@@GregDickerson-bikevideos

Thank you. I like the classic look of these old Schwinns.

I'm glad you find them helpful. Thank you for the encouraging comments.

I think one of my future videos will be about removing rusted, stuck screws. It's a common theme with people restoring old bikes. I'm probably too late with that information to help you with your Schwinn Racer but it may be useful for future projects.

I use steel wool on chrome and then wax

Make a pin if you can't find one. Find a pin of some sort and weld a spot on the top of the pin and file it to fit.

Finding one is highly unlikely. But making one should be fairly simple. It's just a tiny rod with a cap. The cap needs to be thin enough to fit beneath the body of the kickstand holder when inserted so that the spring will lock it in place. So... 1. Find a steel rod that barely fits in the hole. I'd make it maybe 8" long or so to make it easy to work with it at a grinding wheel. 2. With a "cap's width" handing over the wheel (maybe 1/8"?), grind down the rod while spinning it. This ground down part will become the "body" of the pin. You can use your memory or a closeup shot in the video to arrive at a close guess. And close is good enough. 3. Give it a trial run, WITH THE ENTIRE 8" ROD STILL ATTACHED! This in case you need to grind it down some more. 4. When you get it how you like it, cut it off at the desired length. Keep in mind, too long is okay because you can always grind off a little more length using pliers. But if you cut it too short, you'll have to start over. You may need to file down the edges of the cap to make it slide into place behind the body of the kickstand holder more easily. If you remember the original, the cap is smooth on the edges. Good luck!

Thank you. If you ride a lot you are definitely going to have tire problems. They are the most common breakdown on a bike.

You could try that, however, sidewall blowouts are very difficult to deal with. You could try to put a piece of tire sidewall taken from another tire on the inside of the tube in the area of the blowout. Any repair to a tire sidewall is only an emergency repair. I have ridden a bike home with a small sidewall blowout by not inflating the tire to full pressure, but it was only a 2 mile ride and I had to be very careful to not ride over big bumps or holes in the road.

@@GregDickerson-bikevideos Thanks for the reply. Definitely a 'get you home' kind of fix, riding carefully on low pressure. Thought also to stitch the tear with some strong, non-abrasive thread (dental floss maybe), or even just stitch and loop it under the bead, just to reinforce it a little. Next time I'd prefer to help a guy out without having to sell him on a new tyre on the spot. Thanks again.

The red text is right. It is meant to correct the video. Thank you for watching my videos.

Before assuming it is the brake, try checking the cable. A frayed cable can cause this. If the cable housing is grimy on the inside or damaged it can affect the brakes that way. Also, check the brake levers themselves for damage. What I would do is disconnect the cable at the brake and check for binding or rough operation in the cable when you work the brake lever. If it binds you know the problem is with the cable (most likely) or the brake lever.

@@GregDickerson-bikevideos good suggestion. I will do that!

It sounds like you're doing the right thing. Sometimes it takes a lot of patience to get it apart if it's really rusty. I would try penetrating oil instead of WD-40. You might also try tapping it a little with a small plastic or brass hammer, or a block of wood and a hammer to try and get things moving. If you do get the pin out but the kickstand is hard to remove you can tap it out from the other side with a hammer and screwdriver. As far as the rust goes, these kickstands were originally anodized, but once that wears off the rust begins attacking the metal. You can remove the rust and paint the kickstand. Paint probably won't last as long as the original anodized finish but it will make it look better.

@@GregDickerson-bikevideos just a little in the front

Use Vapo-rust , let it sit over night or longer

Glad it helped! I'm always happy to hear from people who were able to save an old bike so they can continue to enjoying it, hopefully for years to come. There's also a high degree of satisfaction in learning how to repair something like this yourself.

You are welcome. Glad you found the information helpful.

I'm glad you found it useful. God bless you too.

Thank you. I'm really glad you found it useful.