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Damp Surveys
United Kingdom
Registrace 4. 03. 2018
Washing leak poor sub-floor ventilation
Washing machine leak made worse by condensation from excess vapour, poor sub-floor ventilation and penetrating damp to the flank wall.
zhlédnutí: 20
Video
High occupancy window closed
zhlédnutí 9Před 9 hodinami
The symptoms of damp are mainly visible in the form of mould. Mould results from high relative humidity. I solved some of the vapour issues by improving the bathroom extractor fan. However, the risk of mould in the front bedroom should be resolved by slightly opening the window, locking it with the safety lock.
Hygroscopic salts by Victorian shop
zhlédnutí 3Před 9 hodinami
Hygroscopic salts by Victorian shop started showing on party wall about 45 years after first occupied by current owner, why?
Three sources of damp in first floor flat
zhlédnutí 17Před 9 hodinami
Complex damp survey with 3 source of damp in first floor Victorian conversion flat: penetrating damp, condensation and hygroscopic salts on chimney breast
Damp from poor render over pebbledash
zhlédnutí 16Před 9 hodinami
Penetrating damp through cracks in render covering previously damaged pebbledash
Treatment cost £90K with IR damp survey
zhlédnutí 136Před 2 hodinami
A contractor quote £90,000 damp treatment work based solely on a thermal imaging camera.
Damp proofing against penetrating damp - it rarely works without solving the root cause
zhlédnutí 276Před měsícem
Damp proofing against penetrating damp - it rarely works without solving the root cause
subsidence increasing risk of penetrating damp and condensation
zhlédnutí 98Před měsícem
subsidence increasing risk of penetrating damp and condensation
Poor ventilation in recently converted flats
zhlédnutí 105Před měsícem
Poor ventilation in recently converted flats
Multiple damp issues in Kensington Flat
zhlédnutí 78Před měsícem
Multiple damp issues in Kensington Flat
Strong mechanical sub-floor ventilation
zhlédnutí 94Před měsícem
Strong mechanical sub-floor ventilation
Damp from condensation on bathroom pipework
zhlédnutí 81Před měsícem
Damp from condensation on bathroom pipework
Damp proofing increases risk of damp and mould
zhlédnutí 1,2KPřed 3 měsíci
Damp proofing increases risk of damp and mould
Damp from rainwater, three Victorian flats
zhlédnutí 289Před 4 měsíci
Damp from rainwater, three Victorian flats
Insufficient ventilation lower ground floor
zhlédnutí 414Před 4 měsíci
Insufficient ventilation lower ground floor
Thank you for your comment. While I understand your interpretation, I'd like to offer a different perspective based on my extensive research and observations: Hygroscopic salts: In my other videos, I discuss how these salts can mimic the appearance of rising damp, even on upper floors. These salts often form horizontal and vertical bands on building exteriors, which have historically been misinterpreted as signs of rising damp. Scientific evidence: It's important to note that there's a lack of peer-reviewed scientific papers supporting the traditional theory of rising damp. Much of the existing literature is based on observational studies rather than controlled experiments. Groundwater levels: For true rising damp to occur, there needs to be consistent groundwater contact. In many urban areas, including London, groundwater is typically far below the surface. You can verify this by checking the UK government's borehole data, which currently shows groundwater levels around 50 meters below ground in Greater London. Alternative explanations: What appears to be 'rising damp' is often the result of other moisture issues, such as lateral penetration, condensation, or hygroscopic salt contamination from historic burning of coal or equine urine. Damp-proofing failures: When damp-proofing treatments fail, it's often because they're addressing a misdiagnosed problem rather than the actual source of moisture. I'd be interested to hear what specific evidence led you to conclude this is rising damp. Understanding different perspectives helps advance our knowledge in this field. If you'd like to discuss further or see more detailed explanations, I'd be happy to point you to relevant resources or videos.
Non of this is new...damp fraud is normal practice in the UK. It’s like asking an umbrella salesman if it's going to rain! I can diagnose that property without even visiting it. Its simply been covered in impervious materials and can't then deal with the humidity created within. Far too many people don't have have enough knowledge of how an old property should function and end up getting the wrong people in.
cant hear you
High humidity creation. If you put a ton of water in the air it’s going to increase the dew point and anything that’s cold. Either take the water out of the air or have much greater air extraction or pressure input. This is one of the problems with tennants when they don’t understand that what they do creates moisture in the air and then they blame the house as the problem. That being said any ingress of moisture from the outside will cause damp and that really isn’t their fault and the landlord must fix that.
Thank you for your insightful comment. I completely agree with your points about humidity and moisture creation. You've highlighted some crucial aspects of indoor moisture management: Moisture sources: As you correctly point out, tenant activities often contribute significantly to indoor humidity. This is a common misunderstanding that can lead to misplaced blame on the property itself. Ventilation importance: Your emphasis on proper air extraction or pressure input is spot on. Adequate ventilation is key to managing indoor humidity levels. External moisture ingress: You're right that this is a landlord's responsibility to address. I'd like to add an important point about penetrating damp and leaks: While these issues may look concerning, they typically don't contribute as much to indoor air moisture as everyday activities. For example, a drying T-shirt often adds more vapor to the air than most cases of penetrating damp. This means that even when there are visible damp patches or leaks, they're unlikely to be the primary cause of condensation or mold growth. This distinction is crucial because it helps focus efforts on the most effective solutions - usually improving ventilation and managing indoor moisture sources, rather than solely addressing visible damp areas. Of course, any water ingress should still be fixed promptly to prevent structural damage, but it's important not to overestimate its role in overall indoor humidity and associated issues like condensation and mold.
Great videos , I would love to see you do one on a stone welsh cottage .Here in wales we dont have damp courses quite often and even zinzer doesnt stop brown stains coming through our stone walls . Will now get a bigger dehumidifier , only got a 12 litre one for the bathroom and that weighed enough ,taking it up and down the stairs
Thank you for your kind words about the videos! I appreciate your interest in applying these concepts to Welsh stone cottages. You're right that the fundamental principles remain the same, regardless of the building material. Here's an expanded explanation and some advice: Stone walls and dampness: The primary cause of dampness at the base of walls, even in stone cottages, is often condensation rather than rising damp. This applies whether there's a damp course or not. Brown stains: The stains you're seeing might be related to penetrating damp (rainwater) or hygroscopic salts, which can absorb moisture from the air and create damp patches. These don't necessarily indicate rising damp or serious water ingress. Applying Dew's Law: The key is to keep internal vapor levels (as measured by dew point) below the outside temperature. This prevents condensation on cold surfaces like stone walls. Monitoring: Use data loggers to track temperature and relative humidity both inside and outside. This will help you understand your cottage's specific moisture dynamics. Dehumidification: A larger dehumidifier can indeed be helpful, but it's important to use it strategically. Focus on maintaining overall good ventilation and managing moisture sources first. Ventilation: Ensure your cottage has adequate ventilation, especially in high-moisture areas like the bathroom and kitchen. Heating: Consistent, gentle heating can help keep wall surfaces above the dew point, reducing condensation risk. Breathable materials: When redecorating, use breathable paints and plasters that allow the stone to 'breathe', helping manage moisture naturally. For more detailed information and strategies, you can check out damp.ai, which provides in-depth guidance on managing moisture in various building types. I hope this helps with your Welsh stone cottage! Let me know if you have any more specific questions about your situation.
@@dampsurveys769 Thanks for that , definitely a work in progress. We have installed fans on the bottom of our radiators in the living room to get the air circulating , relatively new invention , works quite well at circulating the heat , they just clip on with magnets and come on when the temperature gets above 40.
Open those windows and let the fresh air in, never dry your clothes indoors unless you have a high capacity dehumidifier.
Worth installing a small louvre grille in the bathroom door to allow some inwards airflow when the door is closed, and allow the extractor to work properly ie. air cannot be extracted from a sealed room!
Worth checking that the trickle vents in the double glazed windows and doors are open. Many people don’t know what they are for and close them to save heat…
If you removed the ducting from the bathroom extractor fan, what did you replace it with?
Great survey
Brilliant very informative as all youre vids are thank you
Interesting art…
Hi, I really find all your videos very interesting and engaging. I agree with almost everything state, however... Would you say any extract fan will only work well if there is free air available to extract? So, if the bathroom door is shut and there are no gaps around the door, then regardless of the fan power/speed, it won't extract..?
Rather than running a de humidifier at night, to bring down humidity levels, could the customer be advised to open the windows fully, daily, for 2 minutes, instead?
Don't understand this video. Humidity and rising damp are two different problems needing different solutions. You need both so why is this guy complaining about treatments made for rising damp rather than simply putting in dehumidifiers, ventilation, fans etc.
Very interesting video which just highlights the paucity of UK housing stock. To be frank, it looks like a slum! Poorly built by speculative builders in the late 19th century and poorly maintained over the past 100 years. My Danish wife is still horrified by British houses despite living here for decades. Take a look at Scandinavian housing to see how it's done properly.
In the UK winter, the outdoor dew point will be lower than the dew point inside the house, more PIV will fix it - or open all the windows!
Hi. How would I go about employing you to carry out a damp survey for me at a tenanted property. (Manchester area) Thanks
The homeowner has damp clothes drying inside the house which will cause high humidity.
Yes and he faild to mention it, probably never explained to customer it's a bad idea. Vented out tumble dryer or a condensing one would be advised. But it's easier to just blame the damprofer as it's been done therefore giving a get out of jail free card if his so called expert advice doesn't resolve anything. He also says damprofer has faild when clearly it hasn't because black mold carnt grow where there is salt deposits from rising damp. At end he says walls carnt absorb moisture or vapor because of damp cource? How can an untreated wall with rising damp in it absorb moisture or vapor when it's soaking wet with rising damp😂.
Stop it with the AI thumbnails, absolute shite
hi as a subscriber to your channel i would appreciate your reply to my question thank you
hi i just bought the wind device you held on the fan what speed should it show to be efficient please i would appreciate your feedback
Don’t trap it between plaster and added cement pointing, allow it to evaporate ad keep it ventilated. Victorian houses worked when they were built not now, they didn’t have showers and tumble dryers .
I don't understand the argument of this video. They had a rising damp problem so they put on non-absorbent plaster and passive vents etc. Then this guy comes along and says the condensation comes out on the walls. But you can treat condensation by having dehumidifiers which won't solve a rising damp problem. So why not adopt BOTH solutions, either individual prevention measure won't solve the other. So why is this guy complaining about measures taken against rising damp.
Sometimes its the caulking put on prior to painting that can cause the colour difference
Tennants wont do anything except blame the landlord
Presumably if the tenant payed the landlord with damp money the landlord would complain.
what are you supposed to do if you got rising damp then ??
Find the course. Blocked drains, obstructions, DPC bridging. Simple finds.....
@@ashestoashes3107 are you a damp expert??
Understanding of how moisture can pass through a building fabric through a process known as diffusion, diffusion is triggered by vapour pressure differential.
Video is illogical. There is nothing wrong with measures taken against rising damp. The solution is to solve also the humidity problem also not slag off the other measures. I was waiting to hear the solution in this video but it was never explained.
Warm humid air starts at (rises to) the ceiling, spreads out, cools against the walls (especially exterior/cooler ones), the air starts to descend (inverse chimney), and at some point it reaches a part of the wall that is at the dew point and starts to deposit the drops of moisture, which further reduces the buoyancy of the air, so it drops further and continues condensing on the wall, with the majority of the condensation toward the base. As stated, to the uninitiated, it looks just like 'rising' damp', though it is the same pattern as we see on windows, so it should be no surprise (though it does take an 'ah ha' moment to see the similarity, and realise the inverse chimney effect).
those shoes look hot
hi i am subscribed to your channel and i love your diagnostics can you please tell me what reading is ok for extractor vents on your Digital Anemometer and what reading is not ok thank you
Would you advise a minimum of 14.5oC in all properties or higher/lower depending on other factors? Thanks
Too much water under property. Damp course can't cope. Fix gutters. Install cellar water pump. Remove those hard concrete areas around property to allow water to drain away from property. No one wants to fit extractor fans, why would tenants want to chuck out all that expensive heat? This proposed remedy is simply moving the cost of the problem onto the tenants.
Is this not more of a lifestyle issue than a building issue? Clothes being dried in doors, no proper ventilation (i.e extractor fan unplugged), moisture trapped behind curtains. Moisture being built up and unable to escape a humid environment creating the mould?
Are bathroom fans that stay on all of the time (like those ones put in rentals) the answer?
How do you find a surveyor without a link to damp proofing companies???
That’s classic rising damp with an ineffective installed chemical dpc. Drilled through a cement plinth that’s will allow bridging. Rising moisture has now risen above the contractors waterproofing render. Easily proved by a salts analysis test.
That’s a white rot not a brown rot. There is a failed damp course. Why did you not take a sample and carry out a salts test which would prove ground water plus there is also penetrating rain water. The external plinth will be bridging any dpc in that wall.
That final point is really interesting. The need to bring the internal dew point to be below (less than) the external temperature, particularly when it's raining, or drizzle, or very damp outside. And that's because even if warming the external air reduces it's effective RH, the matching cooling of the internal air will bring that air down to it's dew point (remember the mismatch) and condensation will result. The same also happens without ventilation (sealed from draughts) if the relevant wall surfaces (cooled from outside) are below the internal air dew point. Not as bad as the first point, but given you never eliminate air seepage, you are still back to the first point..
8:40 those damp meters are useless on walls. Salts are conductive and give false readings of high humidity. These are designed for timber/firewood and should ONLY be used on wood. As a damp surveyor you should know better...
That brickwork looks terrible. Cement strap pointing such as at 6:37 will trap moisture too. Should be raked out and replaced with lime mortar as originally used when built.
15ltrs/s for a bathroom extractor? 60ltrs/s for a cooker hood? Where can I get hold of such powerful machines?
Those are not high numbers.
That looks like a leak and not damp. Either water mains or roof leak.
Interstitial condensation is always misdiagnosed as rising damp
interesting. i've been going down the condensation rabbit hole on youtube haha. i'm learning a lot.
Interesting to see your videos (and AI generated visuals!), we have hydroscopic salts in our Victorian house so useful to hear your tip on using Zinsser bin to mask the salt discolouration. A lot of the houses with high humidity/ condensation in your videos seem to be rendered and/ or with paint coverings, would you ever recommend to remove in some cases to aid the escape of internal vapour though the bricks?
zinsser BIN is not oil based it is shellac based you would be better of using an Alkali resisting primer which is specifically made to resist Alkali salts zinsser Bin is stain blocker
Sounds like the company who carried out the damp remedial work ,mis diagnosed originally . I suppose your client could get the original company to come out and re-work and fix the problem they have caused . Great content 👍🏻
Would you seriously trust a company who 'misdiagnosed ' rising damp to come out and rectify?🎉
Gypsum is conductive in its on right has it is calcium sulphate
Insulation of a Victorian property? These property types are of solid wall construction, so they were designed to allow moisture to evaporate by capillary action. Air will pass through the majority of materials and this vapour will turn to liquid given the correct circumstances. The problems here are due to trying to modernise a period property with modern materials. It's the same as trying to dry a pair of socks by putting them in a lunch box.
A useful reminder also for those periods when the fire isn't in use (too much hassle to clean out the embers, nice weather, etc.)
Condensation is a massive problem with today's modern build and living standards. I shouldn't think even in the 1700s they had the same degree of condensation problems. They didn't have double glazing, gypsum plaster, tumble dryer, dishwasher, electric shower,radiators etc,etc. Although, equally they wouldn't have made so much money by selling so many snake oil products or useless gadgets which comes with tge damp industry and damp in general 😂
Part of the modern living standards problem is the expectation of 20C (or higher) living spaces, and a 'shirt sleeve' environment. This makes for very moist air (absolute moisture) so it end up condensing everywhere. Long johns and multiple layers and a jumper are required for a lower house temperature given the dew point from a 20C/50%RH of 9C, or 14C from a 70%RH. They really need to do psychrometric charts that plot RH vs temperature (primary axes) that then show the curves of constant absolute moisture to show how the RH goes up as the temperature drops, eventually reaching the 100% RH dew point, for normal folks to understand ( CIBSE's CPD lectures have the formulas for sticking into Excel ;-)
A lot of British houses don't take kindly to modernisation . They were built for roaring fires and plenty of drafts.