Video

Mine lasted less than 500 miles. Punchy climb and that was it. I guess if you don’t have to climb anything or put any kind of torque on it you’re good 😂😂😂

God forgive you for blaspheming.

Why put this in a 1500+ wheelset? :).... I just got the original ones to safe my wheels.

Linear bearings are designed to be linear bearings - not rotational. Just because they can doesn't mean they like it. When you rotate a linear bearing, the bearing balls are being side loaded and are unable to roll, so all of the balls in contact are point loaded as they're pretty much locked in place. The linear channels allow the balls to recirculate when moving along the axis, there's no provision for rotation. The only reason these would survive being used like this is because the load rating would be far above what they're rated for.

Any ideas on alternatives to the 20mm 55’ machine rod? They seem to be unavailable everywhere I can find.

is there a way to get dimensions?

Any chance you can send me the materials list link again. I’m looking at building one

Awesome! May try this build! Does it fit a Wahoo Kickr? Does it need straps and grips added to the wood surface?

Awesome, starting mine today.

What about protecting it from sweat?

how was the follow up on this bike being built?

Awesome. Can i have the solidworks project? Thank you! Nice job!

Does it run fortnite

What a great video, I’ve been using ZTTO 54t in my hub for a few years, love it. I just took the hub apparat today and still looks new. Do you reckon having more teeth slows the wheel down? Having to drag over more surface and probably elevation too, than on the 18t, What front chain ring/cassette combo are you using on your bike? Is that a 42 rear, 42 front?

Hi Andrew. I have a problem. I have no idea about programming, but I modified the script a bit. I have set up 3 zones: // Heart Rate Zones #define ZONE_1 110 // 100 bpm #define ZONE_2 120 // 110 bpm #define ZONE_3 190 // 120 bpm Additionally, I would like the fan to turn on not when the HRM is connected, but when the heart rate exceeds 99 BPM. static void notifyCallback( BLERemoteCharacteristic* pBLERemoteCharacteristic, uint8_t* pData, size_t length, bool isNotify) { Serial.print(“Heart Rate: “); Serial.print(pData[1], DEC); Serial.println(“bpm”); if(pData[1] == 99) { for(int i=1; i<=NUM_RELAYS; i++){ digitalWrite(relayGPIOs[i-1], HIGH); Unfortunately, this is where the problem . Sometimes HR drops beyond the value of 99BPM, e.g. the next value is 98 or 97 and then the fan does not turn off. What do I need to change. Thank you in advance for your help.

hi i am trying to source all the parts but have questions on the bolts / screws. Are the bolts the same for the top and bottom boards? M6-1.0 30mm ??

Bring the mullet back!!!!!

Pretty sure Ridley rebranded this frame for the 2020 Kanzo Adventure models.

My og DT 54t upgrade was about 40grams with the spring iirc ... (I chipped one tooth and they started rounding) Back to the titanium coated Chinese 60t

Are you still selling compete rocker plates for those who don't have time for DIY?

thanks for sharing the design Andrew - I'm assuming that a Kickr Bike will work fine with your design?

Hi, can i do it (with same stuuf) a plate 2inch taller ?

The degree of engagement at the crank is dependant of the ratio : number of teeth of the cog the chain is on / number of teeth of the chainring the chain is on. So what you measured is the least amount of engagement at the crank. When you are on the larger cog, the ratio is usually larger than 1, so you have more than 6.666 degree at the crank. For a mountain bike, it is even more important. For my bike, when I use the 51T 1st cog with a 32T chainring : With a 18T ratchet = 51 x 360 / 32 x 18 = 32 degree at the crank With a 54T ratchet = 51 x 360 / 32 x 54 = 10.624 degree. Huge difference.

Hi, my name is Domenico and I’m writing from Italy. Excellent project. If I used springs with 2.5mm wire and 28mm external diameter but only 120mm in length… considering the slight compression I would have to give to stabilize the upper board, would the oscillation be little? Otherwise I could use springs with 2mm wire and 28mm diameter with a length of 150mm. I don’t know and I would like your suggestion on this hypothesis: If the springs are 120mm, having the wire 2.5mm (instead of 2mm) I would still get good resistance. What do you think? These are theoretical reasonings also because I haven’t seen your test of your Rocker Plate. Hello, thanks and see you soon 😉

Excellent video!!👏🏼Simple, no nonsense instructions. Hadta see what all the hubbub was about with this rocker plate thing😜 Had a ROCKR for some time now, and consider these to be the best accessory for turbo training to come along for quite some time. But... never thought I'd be able to build one with fore/aft!! So again... thanks a mil!! Cheers, 🍻 PS: Just subscribed😉

Does the center line get machined? Setting up a CNC file now and that’s my only lingering question. And if so, to what depth?

does anyone know if you are required to fit the red washer into a 240 rear hub?

How Can it rock? Does The top plate not touch The stand on The Buttom plate?

Mine was fantastic, for 5 kilometers. Then I spun the teeth on a punchy climb. Bring your old ratchet along if you go for a ride on ZTTO.

which one will give you louder sound?

Hello and great video! I have a question. Is this the same frame as ICAN GRA02? Looks exactly same.

The only thing that really matters is the fork. That could be catastrophic!

Do you have a review or a follow up video?

Those look awesome. I gotta order me some road wheels from them with dt swiss hubs. Looks good to me 😎

Hi Andrew, Thanks for the details. I tried it with Garmin HRM-Pro but had lots of problems because scan can not find the hrm. When i move the esp32 very close to Garmin HRM-Pro, it finally catch it. Connections is disconnected when the distance more than 10/15 cm. I have searched and found some informations about power level. I changed the power level to ESP_PWR_LVL_P9 but it doesn't solve the issue. Do you have any suggestion ?

No one talks about the extra DRAG and loss of performance when coasting due to cough cough Upgrading….You lose free energy by creating extra resistance when you add extra bite on your free hub.

One more year and I decided a service was due as there were some clonking noises when honking out of the saddle on climbs. I also wanted to cut some holes is the top plate so that I could top up the balls with air by pumping from the top rather than the sides. I found that the steel rod had a 2 inch long wear groove in it. I turned it through 90deg, re-greased and re-assembled. It's OK for now but long term I think it would be better to get a new rod and have it hardened. Slots on top for pumping the balls is great. I also upgraded the balls from the very thin pimpled ones, as in this video, to the mini basket ball look-alikes which are more heavy duty. Popping balls I hope will be a thing of the past. I've also rested the whole thing on a pair of tubular tyres, pumped up to around 20psi to try to give the feel of being on a bike with tyres rather than rigidly hard on the ground. Thanks again for the original idea and design.

obviously an XL will be heavier than M

@WeRideSouth another awsome idea! Thanks for this buddy, I think I'll start mine!

You aren't carrying sleeping gear. Did you spend night in Kingston? If so, where? I only see some airbnb cabins for facilities in Kingston Or did you get a ride? Did you do a Day 3 from Kingston back to White Rock? I don't see a video for that portion

Update the Video! There are 60T Verysion flooding the Market from China =) I like to have a compare from 18<36<54<60T Sounds. All Dry mounted. IAlso i have all sorts of them (not the 60T) and the 54 is the loudest =)

those are some gorgeous long springs don't ya'll think? I'm not seeing anything like them online.

It’s illegal to ride a bike in flip-flops, 5 years max security prison

Has anyone been able to obtain an updated full parts list? I saw this video today and think the plans are perfect for what I need. I noticed that some of the parts, the links are no longer working so reaching out here to see if I can get updated list to start ordering around for parts. Any help would be appreciated.

thanks dude

do you have an update regarding the seatpost? how is it?

Is there any chance this is due to too much pretension on the crank arm (and bearings) via the fixing bolt prior to tightening the pinch screws? The fixing bolt should barely be tight (0.7 to 1.5 newton meters). The pinch screws do the work, and they hold in the fixing bolt.

Thank you dude. I'm about to build one for me inspiring in this model, but with some changes. Then I'll let you know how it went.

Hi Andrew, thanks for uploading the files and the'shopping list' for all of the parts. I will be modifying the design slightly to accomodate a kicker core. I just had one question regarding the grove on the center line (the question is coming form the CNC shop I am using for the work). They were wondering what the purpose of the groove was (I assumed it was for some kind of stress reduction on the top plate). Thanks again.

My experience with Chinese 54T ratchet: It failed after couple of months. Pieces of broken teeth where stucked between the ratchets so it could not engage. I had to stop, open it, wipe the pieces out and it worked again - easy quick fix. Then it worked on remaining teeth for 2 years without any problem. Then again, similar thing happened. After the wipe, I had no problem to finish my ride, but the teeth look really worn out, so I do not have confidence to ride it much longer. I will put back original 18T, to see If I can live with that. If not, I will probably buy 54T from DT Swiss . Chinese cost one third of original DT, so actually it is not super cheap anyway.