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Frank Force
Registrace 12. 09. 2013
Video
Checkmate boat restoration, break-in at 25:1 oil
zhlédnutí 452Před 6 lety
Checkmate boat restoration, break-in at 25:1 oil
Mercury shift cable replacement part 3
zhlédnutí 4,6KPřed 7 lety
Mercury shift cable replacement part 3
Fiberglass boat stripped out screw holes
zhlédnutí 18KPřed 7 lety
Fiberglass boat stripped out screw holes
Mercury outboard power head removal, part 3
zhlédnutí 9KPřed 7 lety
Mercury outboard power head removal, part 3
Mercury outboard power head removal, part 4
zhlédnutí 7KPřed 7 lety
Mercury outboard power head removal, part 4
Mercury outboard power head removal, part 2
zhlédnutí 44KPřed 7 lety
Mercury outboard power head removal, part 2
Why just the 4?
There the long ones
Do the yellow with red stripe wires need to be hooked up a certain way?
There the neutral safety wires. If you don't hook up motor will start in gear. Also part of the kill switch lanyard
You win! Absolutely perfect, except for the merc OMC!
They are not lead they are pot metal.
Will that gen 2 do it on a 1995 bayliner capri 1750LS?
If you have outboard merc should work great
Gorgeous Paint Work
Will they rust in saltwater?
There lead anchors, mine are doing great
The jack-plate you took off will give more performance than the exhaust system you installed. Your new Transom bracket should support it just fine. Even if you went with a smaller jackplate, you should see a benefit.
How did you remove the studs?
Put mid section on my drill press, drilled slowly
@@frankforce2753 no i mean, how did you remove the studs from the power head? Werent they stuck in the powerhead?
@@cmoikahk4505 they came out easy with vise grips
Thanks I did this and it worked perfectly. The wall hangers were size #7
Was born and raised in Gibsonton… then left for the Army and never came back… lol.
Fill the hole with 2 part marine epoxy. Let it harden overnight, re-drill with a drill bit that's slightly smaller than the screw. Much, much easier, and its a cleaner, professional calibre result. Be sure to use masking tape around the hole. Before you do anything, ensure you know why the screw worked loose. Or it will happen again. These inserts will rust out fast. If you have a cored hull, water will start the delamination process of your hull around the hole. Then yer really "screwed".
What size drillbit did you use? I’m fighting my black max trying to do the same thing.
It was just a little bigger than the stud diamiter, don't remember the size
@@frankforce2753 Did you weld the holes back or you just filled them in with silicone? Did you have any issues if you just fill them in with silicone? Probably gonna have to do this with my engine.
Just filled with silicone, but before dropping power head on really coated the studs with never seize
Why not through bolt them with a Nylock nut on the back side. That is what I did. I also reinforced the area with a 2"x4"x1" thick piece of marine plywood. That was 8 years ago. Never a problem since. I also did this with the cleats and windshield mounts. Nothing comes loose again. Of course used all stainless hardware. I do like your solution if you were dealing with a blink area and didn't have access to the backside.
You did it the best way 👍🏼
I could use some of that smoke to kill these dam mosquitoes they suck this year
Sure did hate to do that, 25 to 1 break-in after redoing 2 lower cylinder rebuilds
I had the same issue with my boat and you solved the problem.Thanks bud & be safe.Cheers!
Subscribed.
Thanks for the great idea! I one upped you slightly and I got a 1/4” tap and I tapped the anchors and then used a machine screw and some loctite. The screw threaded perfect and is locked in place and the anchors are holding great.
Good deal 👍
Hows has it held up
Still holding and haven't had to tighten 👍
REMOVING POWER HEAD ? WHAT POWER HEAD ?
for my engine, to replace that part it's over 300 bucks. I believe I would have figured something else out lol.
Didn't destroy it
@@frankforce2753 Oh, I see now.. I was thinking you went through the bolts and further into the casing. Great idea then lol!
Nice
Stainless rivet-nuts also work well for those blind holes in the boat.
Anchor is an alloy, doesn't rust
does it gets rusty with salt water?
I wondered this myself. I sealed mine with 5200 just in case.
I live in tampa fl I would like to know if you can do the same to my boat, let me know!!
Do you need to remove the lower unit before taking the power head off or can it be taken off with the lower unit attached? I see that it’s not on in your second video is the reason for asking.
Don't see why you can't
Do you know if this ever caused stress cracks?
@@-BUFFALOMan thats a thinker
No fishing! love it
NOW DO I GET IN TOUCH WITH YOU NTHASTREET@GMAIL.COM
I AM IN TAMPA I NEED HELP WITH A MERCURY 9.8 HAVING TROUBLE REMOVING POWERHEAD
where did you take your outboard engine to get it rebuilt? what machine chop? i live in tampa fl i have a mercury optimax 150hp. text me or call me 813 574 9111
May I ask what paint did you use to paint the boat?
Torch TV nason urethane, not base coat clear coat,
Frank Force Thanks. I'm in the process of rebuilding my own 1997 Mercury 200XL which is similar to yours. Right now I got all the nuts loose waiting on my lifting eye. Then taking it to Tampa offshore machine to have it bored!
Torch TV way cool, if you need anything let me know, 813-620-5689
Yea, good method.
cool! where's the babes??