Video

Just buy the darn .50 floater 👎🇨🇦

Terima kasih bos ku t4 saya bnyk ikan biawan tebakang

chapstick. it seats a knot better thank anything else I tried. apply to your lips before you start with the knot and apply it to the knot before you synch the knot. it seats the knot Best.

Có bán lẻ không

What was the product used to coat the whippings on the repair? I shall 3D print a joining piece from Nylon Carbon Fibre filament seeing as I have the 3D printer and the filament. That was a very nice repair and I am so glad I found your video, I broke a 1.75lb specimen rod about a year ago, it was a very expensive rod and so I was thinking of sending it to a professional rod builder for repair, this would have cot me around 70% of the rods cost, so a DIY repair will save me quite a bit of money.

Wow❤

Impresiona una maravilla!!👍👍👍👍🇪🇦

Пойду лучше за 50₽ куплю😂

The surgeons knot is supposed to be a double overhand knot , not five or six overhand knots like you made ,you better get your story straight .

Very nice!! Great job!!

Di darah saya banyak ikan biawan tapi sulit makan umpan pancing,,dan akan saya coba totorial diatas

What clipper are you using to cut the tag ends?

Nifty!

Wow luar biasa kreatif

What a wonderful place for ideal fishing. I really enjoy watching your videos and wish you success

Ilmu baru.... mntab 👍

Itu jenis bambu apa mas

Syabas bosku

Totally incorrect repair. It’s more of a bodge than a repair in my eyes, before you judge let me explain. The metal is inflexible, the rest of the rod is not. When the break is in an area which flexes so should the repair itself. The metal will create stress points making it far more likely to fail in the same location again. The thing which is right in this video is the over whipping to prevent the long fibres splitting under tension when loaded during bending at the new joint the break has formed . What you are in effect doing is creating another rod joint. You don’t want to make a flat spot out of it affecting the rods action. So what you actually do is insert a piece of carbon to bridge both sides of the break, at least a few inches each side of it. It is vital that piece of carbon fits snuggly so it must be tapered to match the original rod blank. You will probably need lots of spare pieces of carbon to do this, offer them up on the outside of the rod before you test to see which matches the taper most closely first. The ideal piece will have a matching taper with a wall thickness slightly thicker than the original blank, because being of a smaller diameter it will be weaker than the original wider blank at that point. Check out any standard rod spigot joint, you will see what I mean, thicker walled carbon than the main blank. I get my repair pieces from a friendly local tackle shop which offers numerous broken rod sections to try. You slide a likely section down to the break from the real handle end where a butt cap often screws off or the plug can removed, or more easily from the wide rod section joint. It’s imperative that the repair section is a long piece slid down so than the thin end always will show out through the break. It’s a disaster to jam something unsuitable in there at this stage so take it easy. You then see how good the fit is when it tightens. If it rocks about from side to side at all it’s no good. If it sits firmly then you can test the narrow end similarly in the tip section and mark the pair carbon with a pen at the break point so that you can cut the right distance of overlap each side. Once the repair carbon is cut to length on the thick side only with a fine saw…I use a dremmel to avoid any splits… you can mix epoxy resin to apply to the thicker butt end of the repair only, the bit which locks in place. Not too much since it should be a snug fit anyway, this part after all will never come loose, you wiggle and pull it down to lock it. It goes in all the way from the rod butt or if lucky a closer rod joint socket. To make sure it protrudes you may need a slightly wider piece to push it from the inside to locate it, a bit like a musket shot loader. A slight wiggle spreads the glue to ensure it sits as snugly as possible. Locating the new spigot repair in this wider section is vital for the long term repair. If it’s a long distance to reach the fracture from a joint socket or the butt cap it is acceptable to use no epoxy resin in this half of the joint only as this should naturally jam in place. You don’t want smears of appoxy resin affecting the lower part of the rod affecting its action. Then you run superglue at the joint where it comes out of the fracture instead. Not too much and do it with the slightest tilt only.This creeps by capillarity down the joint filling any tiny gaps making it act as one with the carbon next to it without any looseness. Forming the narrow end joint is so much easier by applying epoxy resin liberally here so it completely fills around the insert of the repair when pushed inside. Do this horizontally, you don’t want blobs of epoxy dropping into the tip section at all affecting its action. This thinner section needs to be slipped over the splice to meet the uneven fracture and to line up rod eyes properly. If you were lucky it was a clean break which is fairly common close to rod eye whipping. Some file off each side of the fracture with a fine file so the sections abutt neatly. I never do. That reduces rod length slightly, can split fibres open and for me an uneven fracture locks it in place better too. You have to leave it for a few days for the epoxy to fully cure in a horizontal position. If you have a rod turning device all the better to ensure an even sent of the epoxy having wiped off surplus from the joint. I use fine wet and dry abrasive paper on the joint after the set to make it smooth and give a good key before applying the whipping as shown here. Finish the whipping with high build epoxy if you have a slow rod turner device and a dust free room. You can do it with multiple coats of clear rod varnish but the finish will never be as smooth as the original. I have repaired numerous rods for myself and many others over 40 odd years of angling and built many rods complete from old glass fibre, now carbon blanks. Forming basically a new carbon spigot is the only way the rod action isn’t unduly affected, the joint is kept light, and you will get many more years service with some not even noticing the rod has been repaired at all. You for sure don’t want to be putting heavy metal, an incompatible material, with little or no bending in there. On a longer rod towards the tip the rod may also feel heavier too if you did that. All can be done with minimal DIY tools, the glues, rod whipping, a sharp blade cutter, small fine hacksaw for cutting the repair carbon to size, that’s about it.😊 I hope this if of use to those trying their own repair, it becomes a lot clearer and easier with practice.

hindi kapa boy mandaragat.lubag kag kinalambutan😂😂😂

Всё гениальное просто!

Thank you for the video! Very helpful!

He nailed it hahaha

👍👍

Nyari kawat kayak gitu dimana bang

mujhe iss repair wale ka mobile number chahiye

Это наживка?🤣🤣🤣👎👎👎

Nice one.

ЗАМОРОЧКИ ДЕНЕГ ЖАЛКО КУПИТЬ АКВАТИК

... вместо гвоздя лучше вольфрамовый стержень

Colombia

Thanks a lot!

Why do you never pull the tag end tight...doesn't make sense

Itu pirnya biasanya yg jual dimana bang?

What an art and presentation. Especially that last one.

Nice trick

Itu kailnya merk apa bang..?

The first 2 are my go-to knots when connecting 2 pieces together...

Excellent presentation. Well done and thank you for taking the time to make and share it with us.

Itu berpa ukuran mata kail nya om Sampe dasar gak itu

これから5番の技は使います。ありがとうございました！🙏

👍👍👍👍❤❤salutations de FRANCE

( down south they normally use the double knot ,on dish hooks !)

Pagi ka , saya tertarik dengan channel CZcamsnya apakah ada rencana untuk dipindah alih saya bisa ngasih harga yg menarik boleh minta kontak yg bisa dihubungi terima kasih 👍👍

Music makes video unwatchable

👍👍👍

장갑 착용하고 하세요 😅

❤❤❤❤