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Made one out of tool steel, remembering shop class and my first few years working in a machine shop. Atkins and Hoyle davits are great and good quality, but the hardware supplied is not the same quality, we had a shackle break and damage our dinghy and the plastic pulleys didn't last, hopefully the aluminum sheaves will last longer.

@@desperadoii4938I've cast epoxy and glass sheaves in a small section of PVC and then ground down the groove with a drill bit wrapped in sandpaper before for small boats and they have held up. I havent gotten around to making or buying a round form to do it clean on metal

Yes, not a great video, I acutally hired someone to do this job, as he had tools, to his credit (and he is a great mechanic), he gave up, said "I am not charging you, use my tools", it took two of us, but we finally removed that bearing. I returned the tools, and the mechanic said, I normally just cut the shaft, then hasksaw our the bearing, it is generally cheaper to replace the shaft than my labour to remove the old bearing. Longe and short of it... it can be a huge pain in the ass, I had a great, honest mechanic who generously donated his tools, and eventually we got it out. Sometimes it is tough in a boat yard to find the exact tools you need.

I cannot stress enough how important it is to leave tabs to peel off the backing, on my first try (to prove concept) I did not and it was a nightmare, best to waste the 1/2" and leave a tab at each corner. This is what I used: 3M VHB Tape 5952 Double-Sided Acrylic Foam Tape - Heavy Duty, Industrial Mounting Tape - 3/4 inch width x 15 yards length, 45 mil thick - Black3M VHB Tape 5952 Double-Sided Acrylic Foam Tape - Heavy Duty, Industrial Mounting Tape - 3/4 inch width x 15 yards length, 45 mil thick - Black --- easily found on Amazon I wish it had been a little thicker, I think the initial setting of the acrylic would have been easier, but all worked great and I have been through Ian and many heavy rains and I have not had one drop leak.

another video is posting now... my phone kept overheating, and I do everything one handed, so no the greatest, but it will give you the idea.

I have attacked this problem 3 times prior and this time actually did accidental proof of concept (LOL), first using 5200, then 4200, then Butyl (Butyl was second best to this system)... the heavy storms here in Florida have hammered this latetes fix, and no leaks, the flexibility of the two systems will allow more room for contraction and expansion, I used to keep this boat in Parry Sound, Ontario. I am debating bringing D2 back to Canada this year, going through a cold winter will be the only way to really tell.

Correction to my post : what do the two flats on the crankshaft pulley engage with.

You cannot mess up the timing with the belts, I also want to upgrade to serpentine belts and a tesioner system, as I find the belts wear too quickly especially when trying to charge the lithium battery, it is just a taper fit. Timing is done through gears, when I removed the injection pump for rebuild, It was a process of turning the crank many times (17mm bolt on crankshaft), until the timing marks lined up, I did hire a Yanmar mechanic to do this, as I did not feel comfortable having never worked on that before and havinng spent $1600 have the injection pump rebuilt and timed, I did not want to risk it.

Ordered it on Amazon, will post the link later, it was free shipping.

You had not seen the 100 pulls before I started the video, LOL we did end up returning it to the dealer, and got a full credit against a Suzuki, from what I have heard, LEHR is no longer making these motors and may be out of business entirely.

That's the directions I've also heard. I'm about to do my 21 ft Trophy walkaround in Seafoam Green. I've seen incredible results with Alexseal and have heard it's as strong as Imron

I agree, doesn't look like the surface was prepared correctly. Two to three coats primer sanded with 320 grit than two coats top coat sanded with 400 grit and final top coat.

2007 Yanmar 3ym30

Yes, it was a problem, new unit has worked flaulessly, I do hope that Garmin has adressed and fixed the problem, I did have to go through a bunch of telephone troubleshooting with them before I finally talked to someone that knew that this was a known issue and promptly replaced the unit!

We are actually now on our 3rd unit, for the exact same problem.

1981 C&C 40-2 centerboard

Greetings Wendy, Since you didn't specify the model of your AMS autopilot, I'll give you the information I have. For the Alpha 3000 and Alpha 4404-mos/fet 12 VDC units - 7.5 Amps For the Alpha 3000 and Alpha 4404 with mos/fet 12VDC units - 15Amps. Hope that helps. Regards, Kevin

Sorry Wendy, the first entry was suppose to read "For the Alpha 3000 and Alpha 4404 -mos/fet 12 VDC units - 7.5 Amps".

Before rebuilding, I fully retacted the drive and measured the resistance on the pot, that way, I knew how to reset it. In six weeks I am heading back to Florida, and I know of a used working drive unit there, if my friend is still there and still has it, I will inquire about a price and let you know, I also have to remove my compass as someone needs that. After burning out a second motor (rough seas and my rudder is large) - I upgraded to a Garmin unit that integrates with my chartplotter and wind instruments, so I can autopilot by apparent wind direction, compass course or plotted line on chartplotter. Thanks for watching my video.

@@desperadoii4938 Wow! Thanks for your reply. Reading your method for resetting the potentiometer makes me wish I had more electrical knowledge - I'll have to read up on that as we explore/diagnose/repair our drive unit. Thanks so much for inquiring about your friend's drive unit when you get to Florida; having a back up drive unit would be great for us. The awlgrip on your boat looks fabulous. Scrolling through your videos reveals all the impressive work you've done on Desperado II. Our boat is similar vintage I think - a 1978 Swan 41. She's in a cyclone pit in Fiji, where we sailed her from California a couple years ago (blog: anthea41.blog).

Hello again. Just wondering if you're back on your boat and if that drive unit you mentioned might be available. We were able to reset the potentiometer - your video helped. Thanks.

Greetings Mark, I was interested to see you were able to replace the burned out brushes on your Pittman motor. I have two Pittman motors that need brushes. However, I have been unable to find replacements. I would certainly appreciate any information you would be willing to share on where you found the brushes (and holders) for these motors. For what it's worth, there is a new AMS linear drive unit on ebay for $1700. The price seems a little steep but you may be able to make a lower offer if you are interested. Thanks in advance, Kevin

@@mikeparrot76 Hello Kevin. Thanks for your note. Unfortunately, I don't have any good leads on new brushes. I ordered the new brushes from Chris at Alpha Marine before he closed shop. I'm now regretting not ordering a second set from him back then. I wonder if you could find an older Pittman motor with operable brushes that would work (I see that Trainz in Buford, GA has several older Pittman can motors on Ebay)? Yes, I saw that linear drive unit; we need an 18 inch, that one was 13 inch. I would like to find one... Good luck with the brushes and your compass.

i do have it, but I am not on the boat right now, will be back in Novemeber, taking a couple months off to renovate our house in Canada, will be back in Florida in November, I have the control unit and the compas, if you still need them then, let me know, I also may have a line on a linear drive!

@@desperadoii4938 Yes, I am definitely interested. My unit failed 2 of 3 resistance measurement tests (drive winding and sine sense). My project for today is to disassemble the hermetically sealed oil filled device to see if I can affect repairs. Any thoughts or recommendations would greatly be appreciated.