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What are the issues? What have you checked?

@@2003Harleyguy seems to only happen when it’s warmed up. But loss of power, seems like it’s missing when that happens and randomly cuts off. He can start it back up, pretty much immediately. He replaced spark plugs and wires before I even knew about. He’s convinced it’s fuel related. So he’s working on replacing fuel filter, iac sensor and some fuel hoses under the tank because he read ethanol could deteriorate over time. He was also thinking about taking it to a tuner assuming something might be wrong with the tuner. I’ve spoke to a couple people about the issues and both said it’s sounds like ignition module. And I know it doesn’t me much but I read in a forum someone having the same problem and the ignition module was the culprit. So that’s my assumption. I just don’t know where it is. I woulda thought it would be tucked in behind the tuner somewhere.

Be sure to check for broken wire inside the wire insulation going to fuel injectors. Supposedly Harley used wire that was too stiff for the wiring harness and the wire cracks inside the plastic insulation. This leads to arcing between the broken wire gaps. I have had this happen and it causes really bad bad, intermittent rough running & stalling when at temperature. Do the fuel injector wire leads jiggle test as it's idling with a long non conducting stick or something. I used a 1/4" wooden dowell. Easier to see & reach from the right side under the tank. This happened to me and I ended up soldering the wires back together. Fixed the problem. Also check the fuel line running from the check valve under the tank to the fuel rail, they have a tendency to swell up with age/ethanol (like you said) on the inside cutting off the flow of fuel. HTH. 03

ok, he’s taking care of the fuel line now while he has the tank off. We’ll check injector wire leads and the wire insulation.

@@ramatranga FYI, the bike needs to be running when you check it so you can see if it starts missing as you jiggle the wires. I guess you can also use a voltmeter and check continuity as you jiggle the wires. GL.

Don't forget to check for broken wires going to fuel injectors. HD reportedly used harder wire than they should have & it can become cracked & ark inside the wire insulation. It will run intermittently and like crap. Check the fuel line going from check valve to injector fuel rails. It has a habit of swelling inside the hose & cutting off fuel flow. HTH, 03

In my opinion, the oil seems to flow past the internal baffle more quickly on most modern filters & back into the crankcase when it's first warmed up.

If you mean the hose connected to the fuel disconnect check valve, that was already installed onto the new check valve when I bought it from HD. Different model bikes & years have different part #s. Do a HD.com parts lookup for yours. Thanks for watching!

I see your point but I talked to my local dealers best mechanic before I did the job. He told me the dealership almost never needs to replace electric fuel pumps. If I need to change the fuel pump in the future, it's easy peasy now. To date, 1/17/24, with my 22 year old bike & I'm still on the OEM electric fuel pump. Not bad HD!

If you bought this bike with the SE 103 motor, CHECK YOUR CAM CHAIN TENSIONERS! If they wear beyond a certain point they will DESTROY your motor. One of the first things that I did when I bought my bike (almost new used 12k miles) was to do a Screaming Eagle hydraulic cam tensioner conversion. Caught it just in time! Almost FRAGGED my motor at 12k miles. S&S makes a good conversion kit also. Check that now! HTH, 03 PS, I still own & love this bike. We travel on it & ride it hard. Just finished a "walked bearing" R&R on the tranny output shaft. Went with the 1 piece bearing. So if you have an oil leak between the inner primary & tranny, that's how it shows up. HTH

I'm new to Harleys so I've got alot to learn. I keep reading about upgrading a tensioner before 30k miles. Did you upgrade yours yourself? Any videos out there you've found on exactly what this upgrade is? Or at least what/where the problem is? I'm still unsure exactly what and where on the engine this problem is. 27k miles on this bike. Thanks for your advice!!

@@JoeHasGotToGo I do all my work myself except I remove my wheels & take them to the dealer to have new tires off/on the rims & spin balancing. I don't like how the stealers always chip my chrome or scratch my paint. There are tons of vids on the tube, the more of them that you watch, the better you'll understand. If your budget is tight, just replace the stock tensioners (back one is always in worse condition) for a lot less $ & start saving for the long term fix of hydraulic tensioner conversion. Step one is to buy a new/used service manual for your bike. If you have the same bike as me, 2003 touring models P/N 99483-03A, eBay or HDF forum is a good starting place. True that some tensioners can run a long time while others crap out at 12k like mine did. But yes, it's that big of a problem from 99 thru 06. It can destroy your motor.

@@2003Harleyguy mine didn’t come with an owners/maintenance manual. I want to change the three fluids. What are the capacities on the motor oil, trans fluid, and primary? I’ll look into finding a owners manual

On a 9 minute video???... Thanks for watching.

Sofa mechanics that have never even held a wrench is my guess. Thanks for watching! 03

Hi Jerry, I still have this bike & LOVE IT! I also did the hydraulic cam chain conversion at 28,000 mi. JUST IN TIME ALSO! Right to the metal part on the spring tensioner. I got the SE conversion kit. All the parts & kit were the same as an 03 88 motor. It's a big job but will keep you from fragging your motor. There is a supplemental Harley service manual part number 99500-03 specifically for the FLHRSEI2 that has a lot of useful information in it. You also NEED the 2003 touring models service manual p/n 99483-03A. I believe the cams are 550 lift. I also switched out the roller lifters for S&S roller lifters. I will look for the part # & update this post if I find it. Cams were still ok, lifters were tired & making noise. That was the hard part. Tank off, top end apart to keep from using adjustable push rods which always go out of adjustment. I also had to cut off a walked inner primary bearing. I replaced it with a 1 piece bearing. This bike eats starter pinion gears. GL & HTH.

@@2003Harleyguy Thanks Bob. I am pretty happy with the performance, but thinking that I might want to look at a different cam, and just wondering if we could find the cam specs. As to the HD tensioner kit, it does not seem to be available anymore. BTW, Thanks for the vote on the pushrods. I was thinking that solid might be better than adjustable.

@@Dinocrus500 Much more lift than the 550 and I would be worried about interference with the piston. I've heard of too many valve's floating at high RPMs because of excessive lift. It feels like you're hitting a rev limiter when they do that.

@@Dinocrus500 SE kit #25284-11 fits 99-06 twin can motors. Lifters were S&S Cycle High-Performance Lifters - 33-5350. I bought them from Dennis Kirk online. Same size as OEM so I could use stock push rods.

@@2003Harleyguy On the HD website, it says that this kit will not fit our bikes. Not knowing what the difference is, keeps me from ordering. (Not to mention that it is out of stock). I am starting to think that the websites list some parts as not fitting simply because this is not a common model and they do not have it in their database. Have you had the same experience?

Uh yeah it’s a harley they vibrate

I always use stock parts or their equivalent replacement. Not sure how the gasoline/alcohol fuel sold these days would affect the rubber fuel line over time. My guess is it would degrade very quickly and create a huge mess in your tank. As for the clamps, I have seen way too many radiator type clamps break to use them. The crimp clamps with no moving parts, are definitely the way to go. HTH, 03

@@2003Harleyguy makes sense the rubber fuel hose would probably make a mess after a while and break down

No, never a problem all these years later. I have no idea why it would do that. I'm not a service tech but this is what I would do if it was my bike. I would grab my year and model specific service manual & browse through the troubleshooting section. If you don't have a service manual get one or borrow one. I would then disconnect the battery and pull the button assembly back off & check everything for any signs of a dead short. I would also check the small wire going to the push to start button on the handlebars for a short. HTH, 03

@@2003Harleyguy Ive owned the Service Manual since I bought the bike. I have read it from front to back and it has a great deal of information but always never information on a specific problem like this. It kind of showed up out of nowhere....One day its fine, next day its blowing the dash cluser and running lights (15 amp fuse) but only on start up....If I don't hit the starter it will sit there all day lite up like a Christmas tree....everything working. Thats what makes this problem so elusive ....it only happens on startup.

same problem here . . . . also BOUGHT BLACK ONE FROM JP - THE BUTTON FELL OFF AFTER ONLY 5K MILES. . -- ADD LOCK TIGHT BEFORE INSTALL TO THE UNIT. I MAY JUST LEAVE IT OFF AT THIS POINT AS IT DOES BLOW FUSES ON MY 2012 STEREO/ STREETGLIDE

No, 4 years later & still screaming. No dynos around me or I would just for grins. HTH, 03

I have always had hot start issues with the SE103 high compression motor. I have mostly solved my hot start problems (before & after power commander install) by using the tank ignition switch only & not ever using handlebar on/off switch. I leave that switch in the on position always. To start the bike (hot or cold), I depress the handlebar starter button and then turn on the main ignition switch. In my case, it's on the tank console. Only occasionally do I have the ratcheting starter gear during hot starts. Thanks for watching the vid and commenting! HTH, 03

Fuel Moto are the guys that I would talk to for information. fuelmotousa.com Really knowledgeable about V-Twin tuning maps and modules! HTH

I don't think the 2006 and earlier TC88's have 02 sensors except maybe for the Dyna's unless you have had them installed. I believe this Power Commander will work but since there are no 02 sensors you will not be able to do an auto tune. Download a map according to your build and it will run good but getting it dyno tuned is better anyway according to what I have been told...